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About Freddie

  • Birthday 08/02/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Orlando, Florida
  • Interests
    Airplanes, helicopters, sports cars (Porsche, Corvette).
  1. Use the pump. I wondered how much oil was left in the pan, so the first time I used the pump, I removed the drain plug afterward. I only got about a tablespoon more oil out of it. Your contaminants are in your oil filter, so just use the pump and go have fun with the time you save. The dealers use a pump if you pay to have it changed.
  2. I would be worried about the oil pressure. Also, did the oil level go up with use? If so, is it milky? Oil level doesn’t go up unless water is added. Check the oil pressure with a different gauge to eliminate engine mechanical failure before proceeding with anything else. Engines tend to fail pretty quickly with 0 oil pressure.
  3. Jim, I just had the similar problem of the pump not working intermittently. It was tough to find, but the connectors inside the plugs where the relays plug in right next to the trim motor were corroded. I was cleaning the contacts when I discovered they were almost completely eaten away. I replaced them on both red battery wires inside the plug and the problem was fixed. Yours may have been your pump, but if it comes back, check those plugs. I almost bought a pump, but it tested ok by wiring it directly from the battery. if you still have your old pump, test it by switching positive and negative wires to the blue and green wires. I assume you have the two wire motor. That tests both up and down function.
  4. I just picked up my second Chaparral, it’s a 2004 220ssi with a 5.0 GXi with a SX-M outdrive 1.6 gear ratio. 275 hours on the boat, most of them before 2010. It was owned by an elderly gentleman who got sick a couple of years ago and didn’t use the boat. I knew it would need the normal maintenance caught up. I replaced the prop due to several dings and found out the shift cable was way out of adjustment. It would barely go into Drive before the throttle came up. In reverse, it hit the stop before it would throttle up. I don’t know how long it was driven like this, but it seemed like the cone clutch wasn’t completely engaging. I had to feather the throttle to get on plane. I got it up to 48 mph on GPS once it got going, but it seemed to have a slight vibration. I trailered it, checked the outdrive oil level, adjusted the throttle cable so it went in gear smoothly at the shift/throttle control detects and the throttle felt right in forward and reverse. Tried it again, but it still felt like the prop was slipping to get it on the step. Better than before, but I expected better acceleration out of the hole. It still had a little vibration. I trailered it again, pulled the outdrive to check u joints and gimbal bearing. Someone had installed the bearing without properly lining up the bearing grease hole to the grease fitting hole. I pulled the bearing, but it seemed fine. I have a new one with a new seal ordered anyway. The bellows looked great, the u- joints and input shaft were as clean as new, u- joints felt good, but I ordered new ones to eliminate that as a source of the vibration. I will remove the shift housing and shift fork this week so I hope to get a look at the cone clutch to inspect for wear. Now for my questions. Could the shift cable adjustment have prevented the cone clutch from completely engaging, making it to slip and wearing out the brass cone? The gear oil was clean, but I don’t know if the correct fluid was used. Could the wrong oil cause my symptoms (slipping and vibration) and could that cause damage? Should I just replace the gimbal bearing and u-joints, fill with the correct Volvo Penta oil and try it again? Should I replace the brass cone to be sure? (A bit of a job to change the cone). Has anyone had a similar experience? I hope the cone inspection this week reveals something. Any comments are welcome, I’ll update after I see what it looks like inside. Thanks for any insights.
  5. What pitch prop are you running on your Chap? Are you happy with the performance?

  6. OK guys, here's your chance to own one... cheap too! http://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/913865117.html
  7. I agree that something is not right. I have a 4.3 18" Chappy with a 1.81 ratio outdrive and with a 21" prop it bumps the governor at 4800 and runs a little over 50 mph. A 23" is propably optimum for mine. I can even use a 25" at 4600 rpm at over 55 mph (GPS). Timing or carburation could keep it from revving over 3200 if the tach is correct. The 21" prop should allow more revs than 3200.
  8. My Chappy 180 LE is my first boat. I could have ended up with almost any brand. I studied all I could find about many brands. The thing that made a difference was condition and value. As luck would have it, mine was nicer than almost all the others I looked at. Not as nice as much newer similar boats at twice the price, but almost and very nice for her age. I noticed the NADA values were higher for the Chappys that I checked, so I determined they hold their value well. I bought at exactly 1/2 of NADA for an average condition boat. Mine was above average, but I wanted some wiggle room for any surprises I would find. I did find a bad $23 oil pressure sender driving the fuel pump causing the engine to intermittently run out of fuel. Maybe that's why it sold cheap.....I offered a low number and he took it. I'm very happy and don't mind doing a few upgrades without overspending. I did everything that I would expect at an annual maintenance and a few extra things. I'm up to about 60% of NADA. (I know NADA is not necessarily accurate in todays economical market, but it is a good comparison between boats.) I found most people don't know much about Chaparrals and that can work to your advantage in today's market. After all, it's all just for fun, isn't it? Freddie
  9. The guys on the Porsche air cooled site like the V-twin oil because it is made with better wear reducing additives needed in air cooled engines. They operate at higher and less consistent temperatures. Some of them advocated adding the GM break in additive, but EPA decided it was bad for the environment, so it isn't available any more. The wear additive in the V-twin oil would be good for any engine, but our engines don't run as hot as the air cooled engines so don't need it. They use the oil as a coolant, we use water.
  10. Thank you Chris. I'll try it for a while as long as I'm not lugging the engine. If I have a load, I'll drop to the 21". I appreciate the advice.
  11. I have a '99 Chapparal 180 LE 4.3 Alpha one Gen two. The prop was damaged when I bought it so I tried 3 different props to find the right one. I used one of the prop calculation tables on one of the websites and it recommended a 17", 19", or 23" depending on use and number of people in the boat. I bought a 19" and 21" thinking the 23" would only be good for a light load. The 19" aluminum Hustler maxed out the rpm at 4800. The 21" aluminum Hustler also maxed out the rpm at 4800. According to Mercury, the max RPM should be 4400-4800. I was looking for about 4700 to be sure i wasn't on the rev limiter. I wanted to try a 23" so I made a deal on a 23" Mercury Laser II stainess prop. After driving 70 miles to get it, it turned out to be a 25" prop. The price was good ($80), it looked like new and it came with the hub kit so I bought it anyway. I tried it today, here are the results compared to the 21" aluminum. The 21" ran 30 mph at 3000 rpm. Max was 53 mph speedo, 51-52 GPS at 4800 rpm. Fuel tank was almost empty (3 gallons left at fillup) The 25" ran 35 mph at 3000 rpm, max was 58 mph speedo, didn't have the GPS today, probably 56 mph at 4600 rpm. The 21 gallon gas tank was full. I did notice it was not as quick to get on the step, but not too bad, and was somewhat surprised at the speed I was getting. I didn't know it would go that fast.... not that I would stay that fast for very long. I was running it to see the rpm to evaluate the prop, not to see how fast I could get....that's my story and I'm sticking to it.... it was fun though... My questions for someone much more experienced or wiser than myself: Would this be a good prop for a cruise up the intercoastal where I would probably be running at about 3000 rpm? It does push the boat 5 mph faster at the same rpm setting. Is is straining the engine with the higher pitch? Would it be more economical on fuel or would the engine load cancel it out? Would I be better with a 23"? I'm surprised the 25" did so well, that's a steep pitch for a 4.3, although I do have a 1.81 ratio outdrive. Is the 1.81 instead if 1.6 why it seems to work out? Should I sell it and get a 23"? I don't want to stress anything with the steeper pitch. I don't intend to use the 25" for watersports, I have the 19" and 21" for that.
  12. Chris, Just look at those spare parts as gifts from the boat Gods....I know that makes me feel better..... Fred
  13. I agree that the first place to look is in the fuel filter in the carb. Since you found trash in your fuel seperator you know you have trash in your fuel system. The carb fuel filter may be totally clogged keeping the fuel bowl from filling. Some trash may have gotten into a jet in the carb. That would give you a fuel starvation/lean condition. Mine just went through a stalling above idle scenario and it was fuel starvation, even though it was from another problem, any fuel starvation would give the same symptoms. Always follow the evidence, as they say on CSI, the evidence never lies...... When I was troubleshooting mine, I was hoping to find something abnormal so I would know where else to look. It seems you just found it in the seperator. Always try the simple stuff first. Let us know what you find. As far as the coil, I agree you need a new one, unfortunately you will normaly find something else to replace when you are looking for the original problem. It will prevent a problem in the future.
  14. Thanks Roy, I actually enjoy the challenge. It's like a puzzle where every piece fits together with another related piece..
  15. Bingo... The oil pressure sensor was bad, the pump was good. I changed the sensor and discovered a cracked brass adapter before the sensor "T". I knew I had a slight oil leak, but had not located it. I would get a small amount of oil in the bilge after a long boat ride. That was my mysterious oil leak I have been looking for. With the new adapter, "T", and sensor, it runs great with no leaks. I made a fuel line with a "T" in it and adapted a fuel pressure gauge as suggested by Wingnut. I ran it on the lake without the engine cover and watched the fuel pressure. It never dropped below 7 psi and ran at full throttle just fine. I filled the fuel tank after my test run. When I removed the temporary rubber fuel line with the gauge, I discovered the anti-siphon valve was allowing a small amount of fuel to pass. The full tank allowed it to siphon. I'll replace the valve tomorrow. So for less than $50 the problem is solved. Thanks for everyone's input and suggestions, they taught me about the system and made me think outside the box. By the way, the sensor was easy to get to once I removed the rear port side seat (8 screws). It only takes 10 minutes to remove or replace them and saves a lot of cursing. Now it is time for a beer.
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