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Dennis A

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About Dennis A

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  1. Assuming the original was 4140 and the aftermarket one is 304, mechanically the materials are similar enough in this application to not be a problem. Now corrosion wise, I am concerned it is a matter of swapping one problem for another. The assumed 4140 O.E. shaft corrodes on the seal journal and damages the seal over time. The concern with the 304 is the potential galvanic corrosion between the shaft and the aluminum gimbal ring, especially when submerged in saltwater. This joint is already a problem area for B3 drives, adding galvanic corrosion to the mix won't make it any better. This is only a directional opinion, i have no data to use to predict life of one over the other. My suggestion would be if you are using an aftermarket 304 shaft be extra vigilant about keeping the gimbal ring u-bolt properly torqued.
  2. Congratulations! Looks like a nice clean boat. I was going to ask you about the swivel pin, but it looks like it has already recieved the merc fix, just keep the bolts torqued.
  3. I think this is going to require a local canvas shop to not only custom fit it, but align the snaps to the boat.
  4. I would tow it for you if it wasn't 1000 miles away.
  5. let me know if you decide to sell...narrow beam 19 footer is getting smaller every year as the family continues to grow.
  6. Yes. I use them and when i loose them (leave them sitting on the swim platform and drive away) I then use a strap attached to the tow hook until i can get another set. Peace of mind knowing the drive won't be bouncing off the pavement.
  7. If you only knew then what you know now.
  8. The '93 2250 is a cuddy cabin bow design. You can check out additional info here: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/publications/brochures/1993.pdf
  9. I tow regularly several hundred miles at highway speed with my snap on bow and cockpit covers made of sunbrella. I find either "puffed up bubble" (pressurized) condition or the sucked in (vacuum) condition to be just fine. The problem is when you don't have either condition and the cover is just fluttering to be the most damaging to the cover and whatever it is attached to and possibly hitting.
  10. Hahah...reminds me of a time when I had the in-tank sprayer running on the RV without the drain valve open for too long....
  11. You still have a sea water pump with the same impellor pushing the same water through the closed loop liquid to liquid heat exchanger, so the failure mode is still present. Not enough, only about 620 hrs, but it is still sitting during the season full of raw water. Newer "full" closed systems include the manifolds into the closed loop so that would help, but the risers are still being cooled via raw water. I didn't get the impression that the OP was going to go that far in the conversion as it's a little more involved than just adding a heat exchanger.
  12. On a half closed system I'm not so sure. The problem area is typically the manifolds and risers and they still have raw water cooling them in a closed system along with the power steering oil cooler and engine oil cooler. The block coolant is the only coolant that is a closed loop. How many blocks fail with fresh water or even salt? I also don't think the block temp is any more stable since the same thermostat is controlling it, maybe a different temp setting. Maybe the closed cooling can prevent some blockages in the heads leading to hot spots and potential detonation? My 27 year old block, heads, manifolds and risers have survived the "fresh" water i have been running through them so far. I will say that winterizing would be about half, but you still have to drain the coolers and manifolds.
  13. So you want to convert from open to closed cooling on a used motor?
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