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Dennis A

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About Dennis A

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  1. I tow regularly several hundred miles at highway speed with my snap on bow and cockpit covers made of sunbrella. I find either "puffed up bubble" (pressurized) condition or the sucked in (vacuum) condition to be just fine. The problem is when you don't have either condition and the cover is just fluttering to be the most damaging to the cover and whatever it is attached to and possibly hitting.
  2. Hahah...reminds me of a time when I had the in-tank sprayer running on the RV without the drain valve open for too long....
  3. You still have a sea water pump with the same impellor pushing the same water through the closed loop liquid to liquid heat exchanger, so the failure mode is still present. Not enough, only about 620 hrs, but it is still sitting during the season full of raw water. Newer "full" closed systems include the manifolds into the closed loop so that would help, but the risers are still being cooled via raw water. I didn't get the impression that the OP was going to go that far in the conversion as it's a little more involved than just adding a heat exchanger.
  4. On a half closed system I'm not so sure. The problem area is typically the manifolds and risers and they still have raw water cooling them in a closed system along with the power steering oil cooler and engine oil cooler. The block coolant is the only coolant that is a closed loop. How many blocks fail with fresh water or even salt? I also don't think the block temp is any more stable since the same thermostat is controlling it, maybe a different temp setting. Maybe the closed cooling can prevent some blockages in the heads leading to hot spots and potential detonation? My 27 year old block, heads, manifolds and risers have survived the "fresh" water i have been running through them so far. I will say that winterizing would be about half, but you still have to drain the coolers and manifolds.
  5. So you want to convert from open to closed cooling on a used motor?
  6. Joining a little late. I have a '92 1900 SLC, but with the two jump seats and dog house, I love the accessibility. I do all my own work. Chap loves to bury screw heads in the carpet they used all over the boat. Sounds like you figured it out though, definitely worth the time to remove seats as opposed to standing on your head while getting 4 bruised ribs. I don't understand you comment about a soft spot at the base of the windshield, can you explain the location better?
  7. +1. My '92 has a separate trailer button below the trim toggle that operates independently as well of the trim toggle. If mine was two hand operation i would re-wire it to eliminate that garbage.
  8. https://www.hollandmarineparts.nl/jetthruster/systems/bow-and-stern-thruster
  9. Dennis A

    2001 180SSE

    engine blocks are the same so the interface parts should bolt to either merc or volvo. If the oe Volvo engine failed, a more common merc replacement would seem likely to me.
  10. What engine and prop? How many people? How much gear and fuek? How big is the skier? Trimmed down/in all the way? Going full throttle? Are you able to hit WOT engine speed range?
  11. Dennis A

    205 sl info

    +1. If you can't hit that range, something is wrong.
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