Temkin

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About Temkin

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brentwood, TN (Center Hill Lake)

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  1. Had a guy clean my boat and got water in every storage area! 2008 Sunesta; 350 MPI Bravo 3R Any suggestions as to where to get a physical and PDF version? Thanks.
  2. My wife was there, I wasn't but this cover part came loose. Apparently the attachments failed before I bought this 2008 Sunesta and either the owner or dealer stuck it back on with adhesives which have now failed. The question now is what adhesives to use to put it back on? Here's the part that fell off: And here's the backside of part I need to re-install: Thanks in advance for your comments.
  3. I went to the marina today to some cleaning and maintenance. I tried to change the solenoid on the pump assembly but just didn't bring the right tools, aarrrgh! The assembly has four screws holding it down and it would not be fun taking them out and worse putting them back in. The solenoid doesn't 'pop out' as it's held by two (hard to get too) 3/16" head bolts. With the right tools I think I'll be able to remove it. I'll let you know.
  4. I figure there are at least 3 screws holding down the trim pump unit, correct? Even getting to these would be difficult. And then maybe I could slide the unit toward the front to replace the solenoid. You say the hoses have quick-couplers. Does this mean I can remove them without spilling fluids? If so, how?
  5. 2008 264. If worth it, would I just need to install the foam on the top of the engine cover? Is it easy to remover the engine cover and flip it over? What type of foam, Dynamatt or 1/2" neoprene (1/2 the cost). Thoughts welcome.
  6. A 10 minute job in my shop but the trim pump assembly is WAY back in the back of the engine compartment. I can't see leaning in there getting it done. Do I have to remove the engine compartment cover? Is this a big deal? Tips? Thoughts appreciated. PS: The wide angle camera lens makes it look a lot closer to the access than it is.
  7. If you're talking about the clock and the thermometer, I got these from Amazon. They're intended to be used on Motorcycle fairings. They're heavy duty, look and work great and they simply have industrial strength 3M tape to hold them in place. I'm too big to get into the compartment in front of the dash but my 13 years old isn't.
  8. I've heard the multi-gauge used by Chaparral around this time is notorious for fogging over. Replacing it would cost big bucks and then to match my current gauges I'd likely end up buying a gauge that would have the same problems. Has anyone tried other ways to eliminate the fog on this gauge, other than using the cockpit lights which I've tried? What about taking the gauge out and sealing it with silicone, etc.? Thoughts appreciated. The gauge is on the upper right hand side. FYI: The clock and temp gauges I added are off of Amazon and intended to be installed on the fairing of a Harley. I love 'em.
  9. This apparently from a life vest someone laid on the seat to dry. I've tried some simple solutions like 409, 3M vinyl cleaner and lot's of sunlight. Any suggestions on how to get this stain out without degrading the vinyl would be much appreciated.
  10. Both the owner and the mechanic at the Chaparral boat retailer I purchased my boat from suggested I replace the solenoid on the pump frame with the blue wire going to it (the 'up' solenoid, the green wire goes to the 'down' solenoid). They say this happens all of the time and replacing the 'up' solenoid fixes the problem 99% of the time. I've ordered the part (#96158T). I looked at it today. The lift pump assembly is way, way back in the engine compartment so how to get to it to do this apparently otherwise simple part replacement? Do I need to remove the engine compartment cover? I need some help here guys. Thanks.
  11. I would have purchased this instead of building my project boxes. My setup is overkill and the plug in meters work fine buy you have to change the battery switch. I'm too lazy for that. And the cockpit gauges only measure the battery you're pulling from. Great discussion, thank you.
  12. I'm not in the fight about passive vs. under load voltages. My 2008 Mag 350 engine with 280 hours on it starts in about 2-3 seconds. I asked and was told this was typical for that motor. It has consistently started like this for the 3 years I've owned it. I've never had to run the starter for a minute but feel confident my batts could do that easily and no speaker hum. So far, so good.
  13. I've heard it both ways, volts on a passive vs. a battery under load, thus why I check both. My volt readings from the meters on the battery and the instrument panel typically are 12.4. I agree batt 2 has too many ground connections. Good advice and I'll look at changing that.
  14. I usually run with both batts selected which changes both. I also have battery tenders I plug in when I leave my marina slip. Do you have a suggestion about what battery combiner to use?
  15. You don't sound like a jerk to me. The meters are connected directly and separately to the two batteries inside the engine compartment so yes I have to open the compartment to read them. They are inactive unless I'm pushing the pulse switches on the back of each project boxes (2 seconds each). Once underway and under load (SNiC's valid comment above) I rely on the volt meter in my instrument panel, which I understand only tells me the status of the selected battery. I like the Defender system you put it. It's just more than I need. I've been around boats for 50 years and my biggest concerns have always been; 1: running out of gas (I keep 1.5 gal. of gas in a 2.5 gal. commercial gas can on board); and 2: failing batteries. Along with my dual battery setup I also carry a 600 amp XP-10 jump charger in case my batts fail, or someone on the lake needs a jump start. From experience I know better than to use jumper cables which on one occasion fried the electrical system in my SUV. Thanks for the comments.