Was_Wylie_Tunes

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About Was_Wylie_Tunes

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
  • Interests
    All things outdoors

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  1. I think you are missing the point. Why should a consumer "figure it out" on their own, when they can easily ask the retailer to for this assistance? Its called earning ones business. Some retailer somewhere is going to pocket a profit off this person. Dont you think its right for them, the retailer, to have a little skin in the game and assist their consumers? I do. Cable gauge is just the tip of the iceberg here. Selecting the best amp for the job, making sure its a good match for the speaker configuration, setup and tuning, proper circuit protection and cable configuration, etc. Forums area great place for info, but why are people so against expecting customer service from those establishments that profit from our purchases. Absolutely nothing wrong with asking those establishments to have some investment. Its easy to sit back and watch an internet transaction close out, toss a box on the UPS truck and skip all the way to bank.
  2. Wire gauge? Impossible to say, until you choose the actual amp and determine how it will be loaded. Once the amp is known, the retailer/installer can tell you. Dont assume, you are already in the weeds.
  3. What KW head is it? Look to see if its compatible with the KCA-RC55MR wired remote. Hard to beat Clarion and Fusion for their marine quality and remotes. Most any 4 chnl head unit can drive more then 4 speakers, its all in the wiring configuration and performance expectations. Might be fine if you will only be listening while at rest.
  4. Proper gauge cabling makes this a non-concern. And amp B+ and B- cable will always be the same gauge. This will depend on your specific battery setup. Sourcing through a reputable dealer with marine audio knowledge, and they should be able to help you with both these, and all the other setup details like what is the best circuit protection to use.
  5. No such thing as a face plate change to gain blue tooth and USB. You will be installing a whole new head unit assembly. It may be a traditional head unit like the Clarion M606 or it could be black box setup like the CMS5. The biggest hurdle is going to be if you have wired remotes or not. They would not be compatible with a new unit, so the remotes would need to be replaced, along with their cables. If you can live without USB, install a universal Blue Tooth like the Wet Sounds WW-BT-UR https://wetsounds.com/pages/products/WW-BT-UR
  6. What model (size and shape) are the current remotes? This will help in suggesting a model that will best fit or cover the existing footprint. Although I agree that a head unit down in the salon does not need to be marine, wanting wired remotes, will most likely steer you to a marine head by default. You have 3 basic woofer paths to follow. 1) direct radiating infinite-baffle (free air). no means to place an enclosure behind the woofer, so the boat cavity becomes the enclosure. 2) direct radiating but access to place an enclosure behind the woofer. 3) woofer in enclosure placed in locker/storage but with grill placed to vent woofer output into cabin. The last 2 will likely require a custom build enclosure that fits both the woofer and the boat. All 3 options are going to drive the woofer size and type, as well as the enclosure. No easy or quick answers. Depending on the total number of speakers, you are looking at maybe a single 8 chnl amp or 6 chnl for the full range and amp for woofer. I would suggest a means of zone volume control for the transom and cabin speakers. This allows those in those zones, to control their volume independent of each other. Much more user friendly then having all speakers playing at head unit level.
  7. Sounds like a missing ground link between the banks.
  8. Remove U bracket from the back side of the remote.
  9. "No power to the radio" as in it does not come on or I have verified no voltage with a volt meter on the red or yellow wires at the back of the head unit?
  10. I suggest pairing the in-boats and woofer on one amp, rather then in-boats and tower speaker or woofer and tower speakers. The 600/6 would be 50% more wattage to the woofer with no reduction in wattage to the in-boats. Maybe an increase depending on how many in-boats you go with. The cost difference between the 200/2 and 400/4 is only $120 MSRP. This investment creates a positive ripple across the entire system.
  11. Ok, cool. Im just west of CLT
  12. If the m200/2 is for the tower, its not nearly enough for a pair of 7.7. Go with the M400/4 and bridge it into 2 chnl mode. So where does NC-H20 boat?
  13. Yes, you can use the existing head unit/radio and yes, an amp is needed to power the tower speakers. The difference between 2 and 4 speakers is volume. Its much more efficient (easier) to make a system louder, by adding more speakers as opposed to making it louder with more amp wattage. So the difference between 2 and 4 is quite noticeable. I would suggest a single pair larger, like an 8" speaker, then 2 pair of smaller, like 6.5" speakers providing head room and bimini clearance is not an issue. Although 2 pair of smaller speakers will play a little louder then a single pair of larger, the larger speaker will sound better than any number of smaller speakers. Cost wise, the single pair of 8" will come in less then 2 pair of smaller 6.5" speaker pods. Win win in my book. Brands: You get what you pay for in both build quality and sound quality. My two go-to speakers would be the Wet Sounds Icon-8 and the Kicker KM-8 loaded in tower pods. Well built and great sound quality. An amp like the Kicker KXMA400.4 or Wet Sounds HTX-2 Are good choices for a single pair.There are other options, just a couple I trust.
  14. This wont happen unless there is some sort of ACR/VSR or diode or solenoid type combiner. A volt meter would confirm the operations.
  15. First we need to figure out what you expectations are, as in what do the kids want. There are two basic routes you can go. Do you want a speaker that is going to project intelligible music behind the boat while under way so to be heard by a rider in tow? or do you want a speaker thats more for hearing while hanging out behind the boat while anchored. Different type of speakers and typically gets you into two different price ranges. Tower type and how the speaker mounts, needs to also be taken into account. Some brands offer dirent mount pods for the composite type towers. Some offer universal clamps that fit most tube sizes. Some offer a swivel clamp, which is good for towers with irregular tube angles or when the boat is in a wet slip and the speakers can be removed and taken home with you.