Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
  • Interests
    All things outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

4,939 profile views
  1. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Underwater lights

    Post a pic of the light, may be able to identify it. I would isolate the light thats out, and test for voltage across the harness, prior to ripping and replacing. Odd for an entire upderwater LED assembly to go dark. Not uncommon for an individual bulb or cluster, to go out, while others still light.
  2. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    LED advise/help

  3. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Winter Battery Care

    If you have access to 110 AC, leave the batteries in, turn the main switch(s) off and install a marine on-board multi-stage smart charger.
  4. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    This is how I remember to turn off my batteries

    No need to have two switches, one needing to remember to turn off when you drop anchor. Because thye are both cranking batteries. They do not have a large Ah capacity. You would be better served with a dedicated house and cranking banks.
  5. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    This is how I remember to turn off my batteries

    You are not causing any damage to alternator or the batteries. The only thing that might change how you operate, is if one battery is a cranking and one is a deep cycle. In this case, you would want to turn the switch to the deep-cycle for anchor and the cranking for starting. I would not assume that #1 is cranking and #2 is deep-cycle. id want to confirm is with a volt meter. This is possible, but its an unknown to me. However, it sure looks like that device with the 3 mid-size batter cables to it, is a diode isolator. Which I would expect to be the device of choice for your era boat. In this scenario, running on BOTH is redundant. You are achieving through the switch, what the isolator is already doing. If I would to suggest an upgrade, toss both the isolator and the 1/2/BOTH switch in favor of an Auto Combiner Relay and Dual Circuit Plus switch. Then, all you have to remember is turn the switch ON when you get in the boat, turn switch OFF when you walk away from it.
  6. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    This is how I remember to turn off my batteries

    Im interested in chaparral's schematic in making this happen with a 1/2/BOTH switch. Seems like they are going through their arsehole to get to their elbow.
  7. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    This is how I remember to turn off my batteries

    In a general sense, there is nothing wrong IMO, being underway with the dual switch on the BOTH or 1+2 position. In this mode, the alternator will contribute to both banks while engine is running. More important, is to not anchor for any length of time, while on BOTH/1+2. If you have a large house bank, running on BOTH after a long time at anchor depleting the house bank, might be good to avoid. Less stress on the alternator. Plug the on-board charger in when back at dock, let it recharge the low bank. Now, it looks like I spy what might be a diode isolator just above the main switch. if so, then running on BOTH/1+2 would not be needed. Alternator charge would be distributed to both banks, regardless of being on 1, 2 or BOTH.
  8. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Need better / louder sounds !!! JL Audio or WS ?

    The 800/8 is going to deliver 200W rms to the woofer. Thats ok. However, its only going to deliver 75W rms to each tower speaker. Thats very light IMO. OK if you are at anchor and chilling behind the boat. You will need four 8" coaxial tower pods pushed to their potential, to achieve this. Or, a single pair of large HLCD (horn loaded compression drivers), which was mentioned earlier in the 10" or 11" variety. Even then, proper, amp wattage is essential.
  9. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Need better / louder sounds !!! JL Audio or WS ?

    Im always a fan of wattage headroom, but that would not be an audible difference. If I was going to drive that woofer to its potential, and stay within the JL line, id go with the MHD750/1. Outside of the JL lineup, I know of a single amp that would deliver 600W rms to a woofer and 100 to each of your 6 in-boats. The bridge a JL M400/4 to the tower pair.
  10. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Need better / louder sounds !!! JL Audio or WS ?

    M800/8 amp? If so, one amp driving 3 pair of in-boats, a woofer and a pair of tower speakers is too much load/lacking wattage to the tower pods, and minimum wattage to the woofer. Difference between the 770 and 880 is about 22% larger mid-bass and the 880 has a 1.25" tweeter compared to the 770's 1.0". This equals deeper mid-bass and more output from the larger speaker. An 8" speaker, such as the 880, has 35% less surface are then say a 10" speaker.
  11. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Need better / louder sounds !!! JL Audio or WS ?

    Seems clear he is Both can be had
  12. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Need better / louder sounds !!! JL Audio or WS ?

    Is the existing six in-boats amplified? That can help with their volume and sound quality. If there is an OEM amp, I always like to revisit its settings. Then, look at its wattage potential. Both Wet Sounds and JL offer an 8" coaxial. Similar power handling, so similar output and volume potential. If you want loud from a tower setup, bigger is better. Something like the Wet Sounds Rev-10 or the Kicker KMTC11. Both are an HLCD and handle a ton of wattage and have plenty of output, especially in the mid-bass range.
  13. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Charger and house bank questions...

    Let me clarify. Im not advocating retaining the actual battery(s), just the concept of two batteries as one house bank. You've got the ideal switch for this setup, sounds theres room and existing battery trays/hold downs and you seem to be in the market for a new charger. Just need the cabling to make the connecting between the existing house battery and the "jumper" battery.
  14. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Charger and house bank questions...

    If its only connected to the charger, its basically useless, unless you climb into the engine hold and connect up some jumper cables. This is less then ideal. I would consider connecting it to the existing house battery, basically doubling your anchor time in terms of Ah.
  15. Was_Wylie_Tunes

    Its all gone wrong :-(

    For future oil changes, it really does not hurt anything, to start the engine up at idle, with a new (empty) filter installed. But for those that want the extra level of protection, if the filter is angled or vertical, simply fill it with some oil, prior to installation. Full disclosure, I do the later on my boats and cars As to the coil, you need to either disconnect its supply connector. Or, disconnect the hi-output cable at the distributor and ground it. A simple spark tester works great here