Was_Wylie_Tunes

Members
  • Content count

    626
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Was_Wylie_Tunes

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
  • Interests
    All things outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

3,287 profile views
  1. if you sound for the swim step or hanging out behind the boat, tower pods mounted to the arch are the way to go. If you want more fill in the cabin, then a down or side firing flush mounted driver is the way to go. There are a number of surface mount tower pods that would be no more to install then cutting a 5"+ hole.
  2. Yes, in a way. The VSR does not charge one or the other, but when wired in a traditional manor, the main cranking bank ALWAYS gets a charge from the alternator, then the VSR closes to send some charge to the house bank. Even then, the main is still getting some charge.
  3. You mean the red combine light came on? This typically indicates that neither bank is low and there is good alternator supply. A heavy load or real low bank-2 typically caused the VSR to cycle closed then open.
  4. I cant say because there is no telling what that red is. You would need to confirm with a volt meter. Is it switched and what switches it on/off. Key or rocker? if its the key, id pass and wire the head unit red to a rocker. I hate having the head on the key witch. Blue/wht on head should be the amp turn-on/remote. "p.con" is not ringing a bell right now though. yes on the yellow and black. But fuse the yellow where you terminate it.
  5. Good deal, no problem. The common output of the switch is the best spot. Electrically yes, but in most cases, we find its shorter and easier to run then to the amp and and connect in with the power cables. Yellow = B+ black B-. This insures the best chance of preventing noise. head unit red tells the head unit to wake up. its best to be connect to a switched source. Head unit wiring has been standardized color wise, for about 30 years. Your amp's manual and the head unit manual should show the basic connections. For those that are purchasing new gear, your retailer should be your first source for these details. They should be willing to help.
  6. The adhesive is easy to remove, just time consuming. The biggest part is getting the decal warm enough to peel off in as large pieces as possible. picking little pieces of of vinyl sucks.
  7. In a previous post, you posted a pic of your 1/2/BOTH battery switch. I dont suggest bypassing it. Head unit black and yellow should terminate to the amp's power cable temrinals Red is switched Blue/wht turn-on to amp's turn-on nothing else needed if no speakers will be wired to head
  8. heat gun and patience. Warm up and peel as you go. Depending on the age of the boat, be prepared for ghosting in the gel coat. A wet sounding or coarse polish can lighten or remove.
  9. The BEP VSR is bi-direction IIRC, so alternator supply will combine it whether the switch is in 1, 2 or BOTH. Current draw will also open it regardless of which battery you are switched to. However, BOTH is a mechanical combine, this circumventing the VSR. Right now, id focus more on the root issue related to cranking on #1 and less on the VSR. It will not directly effect battery #1's ability to crank the engine.
  10. While this is true, on the flip side, if the setup is wired to the most idle configuration, its also the only battery that has anything drawing off of it. So if the OP cranks and runs on #1, is the only battery getting drawn from and at the same time, its seeing input from the alt while engine is running.
  11. A single battery should crank the engine over with no issue. I think you have a battery, switch, cable or starter issue, not a switch position issue. I would tackle this with a volt/ohm meter.
  12. Those factory panasonics have a large spread pattern. Some 6.5" are on the verge of not covering the original footprint. If space around the speaker permitted, Id consider going with a larger speaker like the Kicker KM8. If you are going to enlarge the hole, make it worth while.
  13. IF thats what that is. I would not connect anything to ground until you figure out for sure what it is. Mines just a theory to pursue.
  14. Its for the fuel gauge, its for grounding the fuel system. Rushing fuel through the filler neck or out the sending unit can create static electricity.
  15. Green is used for grounding the fuel systems. Like the tank's sending unit frame and filler neck. Just a thought.