Jump to content

Was_Wylie_Tunes

Members
  • Content Count

    838
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
  • Interests
    All things outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

5,211 profile views
  1. https://www.clarion.com/us/en/pdf/CMS2 ENG IM Y 140418.pdf Plenty of ways to expand the system.
  2. Rather then cut the chargers AC end off, you can get a short outdoor extension cable, plug it on to the on-board charger's plug, then cut the end off the end off the extension cable, This works well when the charger outlet is further from the charger, then the charger's AC cable permits. or, go with the Promariner outlet that clamps over the AC plug.
  3. While the 7.7 has about 25% more speaker surface area, its still not go to reproduce accurate bass. Forcing it to, makes the speaker and amp work harder. Id still want to run this setup on hi-pass. Go with a subwoofer. Theres a great deal of missing program material down in those ranges, even with hair bands.
  4. Cart before the horse right here. Testing an under charged battery, typically leads to a false failed test. If a battery reaches full charge, 99 out of a 100, its a good battery.
  5. I use Interstate Wet Cell and Golf Cart batteries, as wee as their marine AGM. I also use the Shuriken AGM batteries.
  6. If holding memory is not important, you can switch both the red IGN and yellow B+/MEM. Also, a number of new unit use non-volatile EEPROM memory, so they do not need that constant 12V. Given the age of your previous unit, I would take a volt meter to the main harness. It may not have the current standardized colors, but very well has a switched 12V and constant 12V.
  7. No, I prefer a cranking or dual-purpose for the cranking side and deep-cycle for the house side, if its actually used as a house bank, supplying loads for a number of hours with engine off.
  8. 11'ish is a deep cycle. Most marine on-board smart chargers can handle a deep cycle on one side and a cranking on the other.
  9. If the existing head unit has a rear AUX-In, consider a universal external BT receiver located out in the cockpit, like behind the helm.
  10. I do not suggest connecting any amplifier power cables to helm BUSs. B- should go to battery or closest ground BUS and B+ should go through switch.
  11. All the pre-amp outputs are low level. You can use FRONT, REAR, NON_FADE or FIXED as they all supply a full-range signal. I would not use the FIXED unless your woofer amp has a line level controller, otherwise, the woofer would run wide open volume all the time.
  12. If the helm B+ BUS does not terminate direct to the original battery, then I would suspect its coming off the main starter post. May just be easier to run a new BUS supply with larger gauge and new circuit protection, then hunt down and relocate the original.
  13. Available wattage and the number of and location of existing speakers are also factors in volume and sound quality.
  14. A) Shorter cable runs if you can mount the ACR close to the switch, where as in a number of cases, the batteries can be some distance apart like across an engine bay from each other. b) if you can mount the ACR close, like less then 18" in cable length, no additional circuit protection needed on those cables, so less termination points. C) the ACR has a slight parasitic draw, so having on the boat side of the switch, its isolated from the batteries when the switch is off. D) If you have an on-board charger in play, the ACR is out of the loop when the charger is in use. This prevent it form combining, preventing the charger from actually conditioning each bank independently. As to the voltage drop mentioned above, voltage drop will not be a factor. Regardless of where the ACR is terminated, switch or battery, proper cable gauge should be used, so the potential for voltage is already a moot point. If the switch creates a voltage drop, then its effecting WAY more then the alternator voltage passing through the ACR to the house battery.
  15. As of now, you have your amp and ACR wired direct to the battery(s). I do not suggest circumventing the switch. Yes, you CAN use different gauge cabling in different parts. Each part though, needs to be appropriate for the load. its ok to over gauge in some areas, but no advantage to it and certainly no need to grossly over gauge. Not as important. But what you need to worry about in this setup is amp draw. Too much amp draw for the circuit = heat. You will see this long before you see voltage drop as the issue. Best advice, purchase your setup from a credible source that can and will, support you before, during and after the install. Wired correctly, its a fantastically functional and worry free system.
×
×
  • Create New...