Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
  • Interests
    All things outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

5,331 profile views
  1. You have a lack of wattage and lack of tuning flexibility issue. You have a speaker with a rating (thermal power handling of 160W. This likely puts their RMS in the 80W range. You have a head unit rated at 20W rms and 50W peak. IMO, you need a quality external amp.
  2. Im an Ezra Brooks drinker as of lately. I like my Whisky/Bourbon COLD, so i use a rocks glass full of ice and topped off with the drink.
  3. Because you'll not keep the jump box maintained either?
  4. Do you have a pic of this remote switch? Most stereo wired remotes use a proprietary cable between them and the main head. No other 12V needed for the remote to function. Only other wires would be a switched 12V and ground for illumination with the NAV/ANC lights on. As is suggest early, may be easier to just run a new switched 12V from the helm to head and be done.
  5. Im a huge advocate for dual banks, but you dont have a dual bank issue, you have something else going on. Adding a 2nd bank would just be masking the reason the other battery wont start the boat.
  6. Wired remotes are not typically tied to the IGN turn-on circuit.
  7. @Chap243 Here is what I would. I have found that sometimes its faster to rewire, then to seek out and repair. If your boat has an unused ACC switch or a black for a switch, then wire the head unit's red IGN to the switch. This could be faster then tracing down where that red terminates, and resolve its issue.
  8. 9 out of 10 boats, this red wire is the IGN turn-on supplied through the key switch. Without 12V on that wire, the head unit goes off, as if you turned the key off.
  9. Im not sure I follow what you are looking for. The new JVC should have its harness in the box. Splice this to the boat harness in place of the old units harness.
  10. The head unit yellow MEM, is actually the circuit that powers the head unit. The red is just an IGN turn on. So adding the head unit draw to it, may be adding a load to a circuit that its not intended to carry. The other end of that yellow should have a fuse or breaker. If its not on a fuse or breaker panel, then it could be at where the main switch or batteries are. Could be a small positive BUS bar, if not connected direct to back of switch or battery.
  11. Good chance this will not improve with just a head unit swap. If there is an external amp, you need to investigate its wattage and tuning. If there is no external amp, I would suggest installing one. Clarion is another good option to look at.
  12. IIRC, CMD7 is the 6-pin remote cable. New units are 8-pin. So if your remotes are LCD display, they are not fully compatible. If all works, id add a universal to the rear AUX-In to the CMD7. Small investment and a little time and you got blue tooth. Im partial to the Wet Sounds BTUR unit.
  13. AUX-IN L & R are certainly an audio input into the media unit. Cant imagine why there would be an auxiliary audio run through the tower. The RCA I could think of being in a tower, would be a single chnl for a video cam.
  14. A few questions about this 2019 257. head unit or hide-away black box location? Location of battery switch? Batteries look to be in back corner port side of engine bay? Thanks,
  • Create New...