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About Was_Wylie_Tunes

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    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    All things outdoors

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  1. What model (size and shape) are the current remotes? This will help in suggesting a model that will best fit or cover the existing footprint. Although I agree that a head unit down in the salon does not need to be marine, wanting wired remotes, will most likely steer you to a marine head by default. You have 3 basic woofer paths to follow. 1) direct radiating infinite-baffle (free air). no means to place an enclosure behind the woofer, so the boat cavity becomes the enclosure. 2) direct radiating but access to place an enclosure behind the woofer. 3) woofer in enclosure placed in locker/storage but with grill placed to vent woofer output into cabin. The last 2 will likely require a custom build enclosure that fits both the woofer and the boat. All 3 options are going to drive the woofer size and type, as well as the enclosure. No easy or quick answers. Depending on the total number of speakers, you are looking at maybe a single 8 chnl amp or 6 chnl for the full range and amp for woofer. I would suggest a means of zone volume control for the transom and cabin speakers. This allows those in those zones, to control their volume independent of each other. Much more user friendly then having all speakers playing at head unit level.
  2. Sounds like a missing ground link between the banks.
  3. Remove U bracket from the back side of the remote.
  4. "No power to the radio" as in it does not come on or I have verified no voltage with a volt meter on the red or yellow wires at the back of the head unit?
  5. I suggest pairing the in-boats and woofer on one amp, rather then in-boats and tower speaker or woofer and tower speakers. The 600/6 would be 50% more wattage to the woofer with no reduction in wattage to the in-boats. Maybe an increase depending on how many in-boats you go with. The cost difference between the 200/2 and 400/4 is only $120 MSRP. This investment creates a positive ripple across the entire system.
  6. Ok, cool. Im just west of CLT
  7. If the m200/2 is for the tower, its not nearly enough for a pair of 7.7. Go with the M400/4 and bridge it into 2 chnl mode. So where does NC-H20 boat?
  8. Yes, you can use the existing head unit/radio and yes, an amp is needed to power the tower speakers. The difference between 2 and 4 speakers is volume. Its much more efficient (easier) to make a system louder, by adding more speakers as opposed to making it louder with more amp wattage. So the difference between 2 and 4 is quite noticeable. I would suggest a single pair larger, like an 8" speaker, then 2 pair of smaller, like 6.5" speakers providing head room and bimini clearance is not an issue. Although 2 pair of smaller speakers will play a little louder then a single pair of larger, the larger speaker will sound better than any number of smaller speakers. Cost wise, the single pair of 8" will come in less then 2 pair of smaller 6.5" speaker pods. Win win in my book. Brands: You get what you pay for in both build quality and sound quality. My two go-to speakers would be the Wet Sounds Icon-8 and the Kicker KM-8 loaded in tower pods. Well built and great sound quality. An amp like the Kicker KXMA400.4 or Wet Sounds HTX-2 Are good choices for a single pair.There are other options, just a couple I trust.
  9. This wont happen unless there is some sort of ACR/VSR or diode or solenoid type combiner. A volt meter would confirm the operations.
  10. First we need to figure out what you expectations are, as in what do the kids want. There are two basic routes you can go. Do you want a speaker that is going to project intelligible music behind the boat while under way so to be heard by a rider in tow? or do you want a speaker thats more for hearing while hanging out behind the boat while anchored. Different type of speakers and typically gets you into two different price ranges. Tower type and how the speaker mounts, needs to also be taken into account. Some brands offer dirent mount pods for the composite type towers. Some offer universal clamps that fit most tube sizes. Some offer a swivel clamp, which is good for towers with irregular tube angles or when the boat is in a wet slip and the speakers can be removed and taken home with you.
  11. 8V is beyond dead. 11.8 is dead. 12V on the other one is about 75% dead. Lots of reasons why a battery can be down like that, beyond a bad battery. Replacing may be only a short term fix addressing the symptom, not the root issue. With that said, a smoking or stinking battery is likely toast and needs to be replaced. Just dont assume your problem is resolves.
  12. Id suggest leaving on hi-pass and just lowing the cross-over, which will also require lowering the gain. 50-60 HZ is about all an 80 is going to tolerate at anything above a casual listening level. I wouldnt go below 60Hz on a 6.5". Again, the gain has to come way down because you are increasing excursion. You cant force bass out of a speaker that cant play it. All you get is pushing the envelope of the lower end of mid-bass and upper end of bass.
  13. Even with a 10" "speaker" we still want to run them hi-pass. Speakers are not sub-woofers, regardless of size. If we want true, actual bass, we need to get that from a sub-woofer, not a coaxial speaker. Hi-pass is even more important when we move from the typical 15W rms of a head unit to an external amp deliver substantially more power. full-range is going to over drive the speaker and make the amp work harder, for no real contribution to the bottom end sound. Smaller the speaker and the more power we push to it, the more important that HP filter becomes.
  14. This would be a correct statement. However, we should not expect ANY alternator to act as a battery charger. The real question is, is the stock alternator enough to to do its job and replenish whats used by normal draws and keep pace with electrical loads. The answer is yes, most likely. If your normal use of the house bank is to spend 6-8 hours 2 days of the weekend at anchor banging away at the tunes, then take a 10 minute trip back to the dock and put the boat away, then no alternator will recharge that depleted battery bank. I would spend my resources on a 2-bank on board charger that has an output thats at least 10% of the batteries' total Ah.
  15. Just to make sure we are talking revo-10FA and the Revo-10HP. For all intense and purpose, the Revo-10FA and XS-10FA are very similar. Both 10", both build for an infinite-baffle application. Same power handling. They will both perform nearly identical with your available 300W. Since the XS-10FA is being retired, I would look for a nice discount on it, if a store has one in stock. The Revo 10FA has the multiple grill options, so if your new speakers are revo series, you can match their grills.