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About Was_Wylie_Tunes

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    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    All things outdoors

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  1. A knob like the WW-L will have an input from the head unit, then out put the amp thats driving the woofer. It simply goes in the middle of the RCA signal path.
  2. I hate having the stereo IGN on the key switch. I prefer it on an illuminated rocker/toggle so I can turn the stereo on without having the key to on or ACC.
  3. Most 2 chnl knobs are a simple pre-amp POT (potentiometer) that reduces the amps input signal prior to reaching amp. They are universal and can work on any knob, The Wet Sounds WW-L is an example. Those that use a 6 wire RJ style phone cable are typically proprietary knobs that only work on the amp they come with or sold as an option by the amp's manufacturer. They work by attenuating the signal as its being processed by the amp. The RJ phone cable method is best as it does not extend the actual signal path as the pre-amp POT does. No loss of signal voltage and no chance of unwanted noise with the RJ phone data cable.
  4. Just a little clarification.with the switch in the ON position, the engine is always and only, drawing off the main cranking bank. The house bank is always isolated, Although you cant start the engine solely on the house bank, you can turn the switch to COMBINE and use the house bank to aid the main bank.
  5. With the 1/2/BOTH switch, you dont have to separate the loads by wires, you just use the switch to draw from one bank or the other. Its honestly that simple. yes, its manual, but simple and effective and WAY better then rewiring a complex helm and electrical panel. Not speaking at you just wanted to frame your comments and add to it for others following. By the looks of the pic, he's got a helm BUS supply, auto bilge and stereo MEM along with the main starter cable.
  6. not the case for a large portion of my clientele. i have many customers whose normal trip to the lake in their trailer boats, its to drop anchor and play tunes, etc for 6-8 hours on Sat and Sun. They dont burn fuel cruising or water sports, they socialize. House banks with 200+ amp hours is not uncommon, with a dedicated main cranking in reserve. They do not want to mess with jump boxes etc. They want all day tunes and a turn-key boat when its time to go home.
  7. For the sake of discussion, we call it staying open, is it does not close and stay closed. But with a volt meter, you can sometimes watch it close and open right back up, wash, rinse repeat. Alternator voltage on the A side will close the relay. But the very low battery presents a heavy load to through the relay, its voltage threshold is reached, it opens. Once it opens, voltage on A goes back up, relay closes, voltage through the relay drops, it opens. Over and over until the house bank comes up enough to not be a heavy load. Rare, but it can happen. yes, the if you know the house bank it very low, then once engine is running again, move switch to COMBINE to circumvent the relay for a period. No we come to the next hurdle. If we are regularly depleting the house bank to that point, we may not have enough reserve, and need to increase the house bank capacity. With a very large Ah house bank, I tend to move away from the DCP switch and ACR, and go with the traditional 1/2/BOTH switch for complete manual and mechanical control.it allows me to completely isolate a bid but dead house bank, yet U can still run my house loads once the engine is back running. I cna set that dead bank aside, and recharge is once back home. But wired correctly, my stereo, lights, frige, etc, are able to run off the main bank through the switch, when the engine is running.
  8. The Blue 7610 paired with the DCP switch has the alternator output dedicated to the main bank. The ACR opens and closed depending on the state of the house bank. The main cranking bank will always get a charge from the alternator. With an extremely low house bank, the ACR can open/close repeatedly, until the house bank comes up enough for the ACR to stay closed. To choose which battery gets charged, one would need a 3-post distribute on demand iso/combiner. The Blue Sea 7610 is not.
  9. Not necessarily. 1 dead/depleted battery can present the load to an alternator as 2 not so dead or not deeply depleted. If you plan to drop anchor and run the house battery low and then make a short trip back to ramp/slip, id suggest relying more on a shore charger then alternator. With a single house battery and mild house loads while at anchor for occasional periods, I would not worry about a good working alternator. With the DCP/ACR system, your house bank would typically be the only battery thats low, and only after anchoring.
  10. ALL setups have their drawbacks. Need to list them all. LOL. You dont seem to realize, HE WANTS THE VSR. So, post up each systems diagram and explain how similar they are.
  11. Its not a hard setup to do, but the wiring scheme is quite different from what you have, and certainly quite different then a traditional 1/2/BOTH switch. In the end, you will have a dedicated house bank for loads you want to run when the engine is off and loads that make the boat go. Everything runs through the DCP switch, with the exception of auto bilge. Id even run the MEM through the switch. Not many people look to their stereo for a clock or pre-set FM stations. If you can find a knowledgeable retailer to source through, they should be able to help you with a custom diagram thats specific to your existing setup. In the end, its a great setup. I like it for its passive/manual operation.
  12. Or just move the switch one more click to COMBINE and get some help from the house bank to re-fire the engine.
  13. dont feel bad, none of them have long leads. short leads are best, so this allows the installer to use the length needed and bot have extra length to bundle. long runs invite noise and reduce line voltage.
  14. What I like to do, make my speaker choices first, including quantities, then the amp options are easy to make.
  15. No issue at all. Any 5 or 6 chnl amp can drive 3 pair of speakers and a woofer. Besides the JL M600/6, the Wet Sounds HTX-6 will drive a mild 10 or 12 inch 4 ohm woofer @ 300W rms and roughly 75W rms for each in-boat. The Syn-DX6 and SDX-6 will drive a moderate 4 ohm woofer @ 600W rms and 100W rms to the in-boats (DX6 and 145W rms (SDX-6) for the in-boats. Also have the JL M700/5 and M1000/5 The Kicker KXMA 800.5 is a solid amp. 400W for a 2 ohm woofer and 50W rms for 2 to 4 pair of in-boats.