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Was_Wylie_Tunes

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  1. Speakers do not have a ground. They run on AC and have a positive and negative, both of which are supplied by the amplifier. White is front left, gray is front right, green is left rear and purple is right rear. Just to make sure the head unit power harness has what it needs: black is boat ground, yellow is constant 12V+ and red is IGN/switched 12V+.
  2. The CMD8 has an 8-pin wired remote plug like the M608.
  3. I do agree that the best light effect is when the lights are low on the transom. You will need to find a spot where the wire hole comes straight through the transom to an area where you can grab the wire. You do not want to drill into the stringer area, then try to drill again in the engine bay into the stringer are to find the wire.
  4. A couple of things to consider before changing brands 1) Switch type. both perko and Blue offer a OFF/1/1+2 (both)/2 switch, but Blue Sea also offers the Dual Circuit Plus OFF/ON/COMBINE. They are not interchangeable. 2) Blue sea has larger studs then perko 3) Perko has much shorter studs. This may be a problem depending on the number of lugs on each stud. 4) Perko only one path for the cables to exit/enter. A couple factors leading to the blue sea switch breakage is the use of low strand count battery cable and lake of strain relief on the cables. Out of the number
  5. Fusion is a solid option function wise. I think they have the best wired remotes going. Just note, A fusion is likely going to require a trim plate between the deck and unit to cover the single DIN hole.
  6. All 3 of the mentioned units here, have a single DIN chassis and require the 7x2 cutout. The M608 just has a larger face.
  7. Not sure if there is still a little confusion on this. The IGN switch turns the head unit on via 12V to the red IGN circuit, then the head unit has its own (blue/wht) amp turn-on circuit. This is the circuit for turning the amp on, not direct from the IGN switch. As noted, The exact type of switch will determine the proper post to connect the amp B+ to. At this point, you may be electrically connected direct to battery #2. So physically moving direct to the battery post, changes nothing. Since the boat originally had a single battery, the root issue of the noise, likely lies wit
  8. Since the amp has been turned on prior to the source unit, you have live inputs connected to a long antenna. NOT using the source unit's amp turn-on can also lead to turn on/off pops. So I would suggest making use of the source unit's turn-on circuit is more ideal. This can be an issue, depending on the style of switch you have.
  9. Did these work during the delivery walk thru? Check the FADE setting in the media settings. These will obviously have an external amp to power them. Locate the amp to see if its normal mode power light is illuminated.
  10. The old units are 6-pin, new units are 8-pin. Sounds like you have the OEM Clarion rectangle remotes. The offer one in the 8-pin, so its compatible with the current Clarion source units. MW3.
  11. Are the OEM Clarion remotes round, oval or rectangle? The current Clarion wired remotes options would not be compatible with your existing Clarion remotes, but there may be an option available that does not require any modification, or a little modification at the worst.
  12. IIRC, there is a physical difference between smaller M and the larger e series. Electrically the same though. The 2 reasons the switch fails, is low strand count battery cable pushing/pulling on the posts and/or lack of strain relief to support the cables. Neither of which are a fault of the switch manufacture.
  13. Engine should start with no issue with the switch in the ON position. need to test the battery as well as if the alternator is charging both batteries while the engine is running.
  14. The LEDs are powered/driven by the RGB controller typically, so you would use a 4-conductor cable wired to the speaker's LED leads and then terminate tot he RGB controller. So other then a switched 12V and GND for the controller, no other "power" is needed. As to fishing to the speakers, try and find an existing harness and follow it.
  15. is this an electrical question or a physically routing the wire question? Also, just an FYI. If you want to make use of the multi color RGB you need a 4 conductor run to each speaker and an RGB controller. Otherwise, a 2 conductor will let you wire a single color like red, blue, green, amber or purple.
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