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Was_Wylie_Tunes

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Everything posted by Was_Wylie_Tunes

  1. Remove the speaker. Odds are the brand and model are on a sticker on the back. Then, remove another speaker and swap them over to each other spot. If the speaker is bad, it wont play on the other speaker's wires. If the issue upstream, then the previously working speaker wont play in the suspect spot. Ive found that 2019, 2020 and 2021 are still using the Panasonic speaker with the white/black grill with the chaparral logo.
  2. What size it too small and too big?
  3. Yeah, $450 sound like just a transom remote.
  4. Its called Fresh Air Exhaust and is available aftermarket as well as OEM on many tow boats. It works at surf speeds, like 10+, but not at no-wake/idle or sitting still.
  5. 26W rms x 4 @ 4 ohm. Peak numbers are unrealistic. Good for a salon speaker, but a but light for my liking with an open cabin speaker.
  6. Based on this, you would want a decent pair of horn loaded compression driver tower speakers in the 8" or larger size and able to handle some decent wattage. So get that wattage with the selected amp, you'd want to bridge each speaker across 2 chnls each. So right there, you taken up half the amp. For the woofer, you'd again want to bridge it across 2 chnls, using the proper impedance woofer of course. This leaves you 2 chnl for one or two pair of cabin speakers. With only one pair of cabin speakers, 3/4 of the amp chnls are running ta their minimum impedance. Add in a 2nd pair of cabin speakers and now all 8 chnls are at their minimum impedance. This means the amp is running pedal to the metal. This is why 2 second amp would be a suggestion to consider. Split the load across 2 amps. If sticking with the Fusion Signature series, id suggest the 5 chnl and the 4 chnl.
  7. This is a peak number used by the marketing dept. Reality, the RMS is 1120 with all 8 chnls @ 2 ohm. If this was the case, first thing id do is add another amp and split the load up. As to the current draw, I doubt you would see this amp spike above 60A. IMO, Id rather build a solid 2-bank setup and use shore-charging for the house bank once the boat is back in its home. You'll get more mileage then upgrading the alternator. With that said, whats the age and hours on the alternator?
  8. If the bluetooth plugged into the AUX is not cutting it for you, then yes, your options is to place the head unit and remotes. Clarion I believe, still produces a rectangle remote for OEM applications, and will be compatible with the current Clarion units such as the M608 or M508. Requires updating the remote extension cable as well.
  9. Thats a wired slave remote. The main stereo media head unit is where the integrated bluetooth receiver is. With that said, if you upgrade the head unit, you would want to also upgrade the remotes.
  10. If you have wet cell batteries, I highly suggest a proper size battery tray or box in order to contain any spillage or boil over.
  11. If the Wet Sounds TC3-SXM fits, then the "X" mount pods should also. Just note, those only fit Wet Sounds Rev and Icon series pods. Cant be used with any other models or brands
  12. Can you post a pic of the spot, with some scale? There are some speakers that may be designed to bolt right up to the spot.
  13. You have a lack of wattage and lack of tuning flexibility issue. You have a speaker with a rating (thermal power handling of 160W. This likely puts their RMS in the 80W range. You have a head unit rated at 20W rms and 50W peak. IMO, you need a quality external amp.
  14. Im an Ezra Brooks drinker as of lately. I like my Whisky/Bourbon COLD, so i use a rocks glass full of ice and topped off with the drink.
  15. Because you'll not keep the jump box maintained either?
  16. Do you have a pic of this remote switch? Most stereo wired remotes use a proprietary cable between them and the main head. No other 12V needed for the remote to function. Only other wires would be a switched 12V and ground for illumination with the NAV/ANC lights on. As is suggest early, may be easier to just run a new switched 12V from the helm to head and be done.
  17. Im a huge advocate for dual banks, but you dont have a dual bank issue, you have something else going on. Adding a 2nd bank would just be masking the reason the other battery wont start the boat.
  18. Wired remotes are not typically tied to the IGN turn-on circuit.
  19. @Chap243 Here is what I would. I have found that sometimes its faster to rewire, then to seek out and repair. If your boat has an unused ACC switch or a black for a switch, then wire the head unit's red IGN to the switch. This could be faster then tracing down where that red terminates, and resolve its issue.
  20. 9 out of 10 boats, this red wire is the IGN turn-on supplied through the key switch. Without 12V on that wire, the head unit goes off, as if you turned the key off.
  21. Im not sure I follow what you are looking for. The new JVC should have its harness in the box. Splice this to the boat harness in place of the old units harness.
  22. The head unit yellow MEM, is actually the circuit that powers the head unit. The red is just an IGN turn on. So adding the head unit draw to it, may be adding a load to a circuit that its not intended to carry. The other end of that yellow should have a fuse or breaker. If its not on a fuse or breaker panel, then it could be at where the main switch or batteries are. Could be a small positive BUS bar, if not connected direct to back of switch or battery.
  23. Good chance this will not improve with just a head unit swap. If there is an external amp, you need to investigate its wattage and tuning. If there is no external amp, I would suggest installing one. Clarion is another good option to look at.
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