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About Hatem

  • Birthday 02/07/1966

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    North of Boston

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  1. Very cool. It's better to go with more power than not have enough of it. I wish I could get the tunnel in and glassed and all ready for the rest of the work before the cold weather hits. I'll be lucky if I can pull it off with my schedule and work. But can't complain considering the way things are going with many trying to just stay afloat in these crazy times. Hope you take some pics and document it. I'm already trying to figure out where the best spot is for the joystick. That's always an issue with limited space on the helm and also the way it's designed for looks.
  2. Anyone seen the new Boeing 777X and it's folding winiglets? Pretty darn cool I must say and the incredible part of this is that those dam things are 11.4ft long! Hard to tell from the picture or video since the size of things like that is deceiving. But when I looked it up and they mentioned the length of them, it became understandable why they needed to put hinges on them to fold them and reduce the overall wingspan so that the jet can fit in all current airports and not have any issues with that like the Airbus 380 did. Very impressive and it has built-in deicing heaters on the leading edges of the winglets.
  3. A little bit of proper planning and using the right tools will get you the best results. Besides, whomever opens the ski locker to get fenders or life jackets or whatever from there will see it! So it needs to be done as nicely as possible. Gotta cut the panel with a brand new blade on an oscillating tool (like a Fein) to get the narrowest cut possible except at the corners which will be rounded. Those will need to be cut with a jigsaw, also with a brand new sharp blade and then all the edges sanded down very nicely and possibly gloved with rubber strips to seal out the noise as much as possible and maybe hinge it or just make it clippable so it's removed completely when needed. That's TBD. I already looked underneath from the helm storage area to see how that ski locker is fastened to the floor cap and it's actually glued and bolted/screwed into it, all around the top flange. It would've been a convenient option had we been able to disconnect that entire tub of the ski locker and pulled it out to have wide open work space for the bow thruster and also to comfortably work on the tub access panel in the shop. But it's too much of a process. Chaparral really stuck that tub to the cap really well! And I'm actually glad they did.
  4. Have you searched the forum? There are a couple of threads where we talked about installing flagpoles on our boats. But if you're looking for specifically installing one on a 23 SSI, that might be tough to get any info on as you've narrowed the replies to not only those who have 23 SSI's, but those we have installed flagpoles on their 23 SSi's. That's really isolating a lot of other potential advice that you could still use. I've posted mine several times with picks and how I drilled the socket etc., which is why I asked if you did a search because it might've popped up and given you some ideas which I think is what you'll end up getting anyway. I doubt you'll find someone with exactly a 23 SSI and one that the individual installed his own flagpole. So I'll tell you what I did to my 2010 276SSX and maybe it will help you decide what to do with yours. I used this type of socket because I wanted it to be recessed instead of the other type that sticks up. Reason being is that where the flag goes is the top of the gunwale towards the stern and preferable where it begins to round down to the swim platform and that is where the canvas cover needs to sit flat on the gunwale. So nothing protruding would work. Most flags on boats are at the stern but on some cabin cruisers you might see them mounted on the bow railing. Recessed socket. Drilled at the correct angle and the screw holes pre-drilled also. Holds the metal flagpole very well. I believe it's a chrome-plated flagpole. And this is the preferred spot for me, anyway.
  5. No one answered your question! I didn't see it until now TBH. I'm guessing you probably figured the answer by now since this post was in January and we're in the tail end of September. My guess would be that if the beam matches correctly, then it shouldn't be a problem installing one of those on a 2004 260 SSI. The only thing that would stop you from installing one is if the spread of the bases on the new electric arch are wider or narrower than the beam or distance between the starboard & portside gunwale where the bases of the arch would sit on and get bolted into the boat, then it won't work. But if the arch fits, then it's just a matter of doing the work necessary for the installation. You'll have to get the exact measurements of the arch tower and measure the distance on your boat's gunwales and see if it works.
  6. It's definitely not too difficult if you're skilled and handy and have experience working with glass and doing it correctly. How much fiber glass work have you done? That's exactly the reason why I'm doing mine. My boat is right on the cusp -- size-wise -- of whether it should have twins or a large single. At 29 feet, it has a large single and with that length and light weight at the bow (even lighter than yours since it's a bowrider and yours is a cabin which is heavier at the bow) that it barely takes a tiny gust of wind or moving current to completely lose the bow. It plain old sucks a$$! A bow thruster will work great and solve the backing up without losing the bow easily. I though of doing this 2 years ago and we have a couple of threads already talking about it. That's where I had posted those two videos in. But there are a couple of interesting things that guy does that I would certainly do different. Like using that dremel rotary tool to cut the large hole is a complete no-no for me. I will definitely use something else that is much better suited and has the power to cut cleanly through 3/4" of weaving roving and layers of fiberglass at that area of the bow. But the rest of the way he does is is perfectly and his boat is closer to yours than to mine since it's a cabin. But, it has a V-birth in it but I'm not sure (or can't remember) what yours is. Is it a V-birth or is it seating all around the inside hull? Yeah, don't let anyone talk you out of doing what you want to do. "Buy a bigger boat" lol! Yours should be much easier to do than mine since you have unimpeded access to the bow and keel from inside the boat. If you have a birth, then you just lift the bed up and create an access to the keel area that is big enough to install the tube, glass it and have enough room for the battery should you end up deciding to install a dedicated one. That's probably the best thing to do from all the research I have done to date. On mine it's much more difficult because it's a bowrider and I have to open that forward ski locker you see in the pic below and then cut out an access panel in the bottom of that factory-finished base of the ski locker to get access to the keel area below. Then I have to cut it carefully and neatly so as to reuse the cutout panel itself to make the new the access hatch because of all the curves in it. If I screw it up of it just won't cut neatly, I'll have to make a new one that has to be finished in mint condition to match the interior of the ski locker. That, on top of all the work that needs to be done to install the bow thruster. Should be a lot of fun and I'm actually looking forward to it after the fun I had installing my windlass. Have you figured which type and size you're going to use?
  7. Yep. I was planning of getting a couple of paddle boards this summer to go with the kayaks, but we never got around to it. Something I certainly want to try and a couple of fellas on here suggested the inflatable kind, but then you can guess what came to mind immediately! Yep, those large, toothed sea monsters that we have quite a bit of around here and the white ones, too! lol. So I think you might be better off in a hard paddle board than an inflatable one since it gives you that much of a chance to get back on it should a chunk get taken out. But an inflatable one will keep you in the water with that unfriendly creature. No thanks! Hopefully next summer we can get back to business and out of this crazy year. But another interesting thing is that paddle boards and kayaks were selling like crazy this year because of the virus, for some strange reason. It's been a weird year and let's hope it'll be behind us soon.
  8. Hatem

    surge brakes

    That's interesting and there's actually a way to test that and see if it is indeed the way it works, on mine anyway. I can just disconnect the 5-pin electrical connector from truck to trailer and see if it backs up. Something tells me it won't work that way on mine because I'll never forget the 1st time we ever went boating on our own and we got to the ramp, waited in line until it was our turn and when I went to back in, trailer brakes just clamped right up and I couldn't move a millimeter backwards. The system wasn't bled properly is what I found out later but I had to pull out of the ramp and into the parking lot, get under the trailer and disconnect one of the lines and empty all the brake fluid out. Then we were able to backup but I lost all trailer brakes until we got home. Had to drive carefully. So I'm thinking mine definitely has the electrical lockout that bypasses the surge brakes from activating when backing up.
  9. Never said we couldn't boat all season. Not sure where you got that, ma man.
  10. Hatem

    surge brakes

    Interesting, jlai, because mine are drums and if those brakes are engaged going in reverse for whatever reason, the trailer ain't backing up an inch. And I'm towing with plenty of power so no issue there. I guess it all depends on your specific system and if brake fluid is filled and bled properly and lines are in good shape as well as the drums etc., brakes should work right and stop you completely. Not just a little bit.
  11. Nice work. Good to see someone posting a thread of their project with pics of the progress. Something that's been lacking around here for a while, now. Very refreshing to see. Actually Drew did his thread which was great also. I need to find a fuel level sensor to connect to either the Volvo Penta sender (mine looks very similar to that one you installed, probably a standard) to be able to see the exact fuel level in the tank on the NMEA2K function. Not sure if they even make one but seeing your installation just reminded me of that.
  12. That pic you sent me of the throttle installed looks amazing. Nice job.
  13. They make some nice boats. They just delivered that Azi to my buddy. Looking forward to getting on that thing next summer. Supposedly it's in great condition.
  14. I would've done mine this spring or even this summer since we never put the boat into the water and I had access to it the whole time. But between the cylinder repair and just work in general, I never had any stretch of time to get it done. Real bummer because if there ever was a good time to do it, it would've been this summer but was just too dam busy. Definitely gonna give it a shot this spring.
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