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Hatem

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About Hatem

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    North of Boston

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  1. Hatem

    Noisy water pump

    LOL! Excellent. You see, that disproves the completely and absolutely stupid notion that (ahem...) "some" people have about cool and innovative tech like joystick systems and that they would draw more boaters who -- according to these geniuses -- shouldn't be in a boat or on the water. You've just annihilated that ridiculously dumb and baseless theory! Thank you for that! These things not only make it easier and better and faster to learn, they also make boating safer, not the other way around. Friggin grumpy clowns I tell ya. Next thing we need to invent and push onto them is position sensors and cameras linked to a screen on the helm. Wouldn't that be another sweet feature to spoil our assses big time. Watch those same people come out of the woodwork and biatch about that!
  2. Hatem

    Noisy water pump

    You know most people don't start out with a boat like that lol, but it depends on the person, of course, and it appears like you made the right call. It just has beautiful lines and the hardtop is the best looking one out of all the same style & class cruisers out there. It's really too bad Chaparral has discontinued the line. Yep, I'm hauling out this weekend. Sucks! This season flew by for some reason. Despite that, we put almost 100 hours on it this year and loved every minute of it. Every year we end up doing more with the boat, like more nighttime cruising, more beaching, anchoring, fishing and just cruising to further destinations, some already planned for next year if we make it. Eventually the boat will become too small, I can kinda see it coming, but a leap needs to be a HUUGEAH leap in this case, not just a couple of feet and a cabin LOL. Too bad they stopped making what was essentially your boat but on some major steroids. This thing looked like a smash hit. But another shame.
  3. Hatem

    Where is Water Heater Breaker!

    Did he also live in the Oklahoma area? Maybe it never gets cold enough to freeze and he thought the bilge heater was on and just got lucky LOL! Does it get to constant freezing temps in Oklahoma where you are? If so, I'm sure you would consider a full winterizing and not chance it. Would be the safer bet.
  4. Hatem

    Water on cylinder heads

    Thank God you and your passengers ended up being safe! 5-6 footers are no joke whatsoever and there was probably no way that you could've done anything by jumping out of the boat and tried pushing it through those kind of waves. A 25-27 foot boat being violently flopped around like that is impossible to physically handle and is much more dangerous than staying in it. You did the right thing. I've had a similar experience with same size waves and it was scarier than heII and no way to control the boat by hand, even in shallow water. So the bilge filled up with water as well as in the engine? It makes sense that you would get water in both if the bellows got knocked off like that. Do you know if your bilge sump pump was working and was trying to pump that water out? This is one of the reason why it's a good idea to have a backup or secondary bilge pump. As long as you and your family/passengers are safe, that's the most important thing. Boats can be replaced but not lives, so don't stress over it. It sounds like the outdrive got stuck in the sand and was pried hard beyond the limit of the bellows and pulled it(them) right off and water came right into the engine and the bilge. It sounds like very much like an unfortunate accident so your insurance should cover it and you'll be ok. Do you know if you have to put an XDP drive back on, or can you change it? Since those don't have a good track record, maybe consider putting in a DP/DPS/Ocean X drive instead, even if you have to pay a little more provided it is compatible to the VP engine you have?
  5. Let's see some pics, bruh! You're still family despite crossing over to the dark side.
  6. Hatem

    Noisy water pump

    Good to know. I love the 330 from 2011 to this year's final model. Was this your first year boating in general and you started with the Signature 330?
  7. Hatem

    2007 volvo 5.7 winterization thru flush port

    Well that's what the flushport is for. You have to run your engines when you use it, otherwise how is it going to flow through the block and exhaust? This is assuming you have a full raw water cooling system and the flushport was factory installed and not by a previous owner. If it's factory installed, then you should be able to run the engine because that's how it works. The question is whether you'll have enough force to feed the antifreeze in through the flushport to get to the water pump. If you're going to do that, I wouldn't drain the block first. Just let the AF push out the water and as it's filling, keep an eye on the outdrive until you start seeing pink stuff come out. Then you'll know the water in the engine is gone and replaced with AF. Maybe get one of those 5-gallon buckets with the hose attachment on the bottom and put it up high on a ladder or something and tighten the hose into the flushport. Then keep feeding the 5-gallon bucket with AF while engine is running until it starts to come out the outdrive. Your safest bet is not to drain it and monkey down to the outdrive and put muffs on it to a 5 gallon bucket of AF and keep filling the bucket while the engine is running until there's only pink coming out of the outdrive. Much easier and safer. But be careful doing all that while the boat is on the lift over water and you're dumping AF into the lake. Maybe just do what @PAT does since you can't argue with 14 years of success.
  8. Hatem

    Where is Water Heater Breaker!

    Awesome. So they were all piggy-backed off the outlet in the bilge which went bad (which makes sense actually). Hey we all learn as we go, nothing wrong with that. Funny how things break down together and you think they're related because of timing when most of the time they're not, like the water heater to the outlets in this instance. What's wrong with the bilge heater, just won't work?
  9. Hatem

    Need extra strap for cockpit cover to arch top

    So, Watson, check this out. I'm at the lumberyard yesterday and this particular one has a huugeah hardware section and look what I found. The same exact poles Chaparral and others use for the cover props-ups and they had 8ft lengths of both, 3/4" and 1" diameter. they also had everything else to make exactly what the stock poles come in and without the sliding connection just like I need it. Between the rubber bases which only came in a 4-pack... ...to the anodized aluminum pole with that same exact silver finish, And in 8ft lengths ...to the rubber stopper for the end with the (snap and I already have a @#$%@#load ofSS snaps with screws) was all just a little under $19. Once I cut it to size and stick that rubber stopper all the way in (it stops about 1/8" before the end of the tube, I'll take a awl (or nail) and tap a pin crimp on that aluminum into the rubber stopper which is how the stock poles are done (they just use a different black plastic insert), then measure the seat height, bend it on my pipe bender and stick one of those rubber ends on the bottom. Baddabing. I'll only need less than half that tube length if you would like me to make you one, let me know.
  10. Hatem

    Bravo III No Bueno!

    It makes sense that the drop in RPMs was voltage-related from a failing throttle position sensor and it makes sense that drop would caused the subsequent imbalance and shuddering, but didn't you say you experienced the shuddering first, then the drop in RPMs? And what do you mean "when the keys are in on"? Do you get the drop in RPMs with just the engines on and in neutral also? Is it a DTC? I'm just curious, btw.
  11. Hatem

    31 Signature 2014 performance numbers

    Surprised Chaparral has discontinued the Signature line, with the exception of the 270, but that hull is in the older style, not these squarish models which I think are just fantastic. What a shame, but definitely a sign of either bad marketing (which I don't think was the case) or just couldn't compete with Searay and other, high vloume/lower priced brands or, they just refused to price them at somewhat reasonable numbers. I realize this new generation is much more into the H2Os and ski & fish and surf models and all that, and that has influenced the brand to concentrate on those more so than cruisers because of demand and maybe their marketing research has convinced them that cruisers in the 35+/- feet are not going to be a trend going into the future or that the used boat market is too strong to compete with? Maybe QC has caught up to them, who knows. I know someone with a gorgeous signature 310 who's next boat will not be a Chaparral, unfortunately. Or maybe they didn't make enough changes per each year to attract new boat buyers. If you look at the way Searay pumps out new models almost every year, they must be doing something right including the new 340 coupe which is just out of this world. Personally I think the Signature 310 -- but especially the 330 -- are the some of the most elegantly and beautifully designed boats in the 30+ foot class along with Cruisers. It's really a dam shame. Look at the beautiful lines on this boat, and it's particularly sweet in red! @tomnjo
  12. Hatem

    4.3 Volvos fresh water cleaning

    After every single outing. I try never to make an exception where I tell myself either I'm too tired to deal with it and just do it next time, or if I'm in a hurry which should never be the case when boating anyway. It's only a good thing to flush the saltwater out of the engine and exhaust as much as you can. There is only benefit, even if minor. I'm assuming you're referring to twin engines when you say "those"? Either way, the process is the same. You pull into the slip, shut engine(s) down and tie off the boat. Then: 1) Remove that blue cap. 2) Connect garden hose to that blue connector. 3) Turn faucet on (check manual for water pressure on your particular engine) 8.1VP is full water pressure while boat is in the water. 4) Let water run through engine for a minute or so and check it's tight and not leaking at that flushport connection. 5) Crank engine and let it come up to temperature (which isn't long if you just came back to slip) and let it run for another 5-7 minutes. If you have the outdrive disengaging button on the throttle, you can press that and Rev the throttle to 1500 RPM a few times to clear out the exhaust manifold and risers but ONLY if you can disengage the outdrive, otherwise you'll obviously be in big trouble. Check manual for that feature but you can always disregard that step as well. 6) Shut down engine first, then close water faucet and remove hose from flushport connection. 7) Reinstall flushport cap sung by hand + 1/4 turn with wrench. Repeat process with twin engine if equipped. And BTW, I would take a good look at your riser gasket in the background to the right of your yellow circle. There seems to be some excessive rust/corrosion and leakage and might be time to replace the risers & manifolds. Hope this helps.
  13. Hatem

    Need Help on recent boat purchase

    Like Clopadopadopadus said. Take the Missus and the kids and a battery with you and make a fun day out of the trip. It's worth it.
  14. Hatem

    Windless anchor for a 276 ssx

    Those are certainly important factors. So when I ordered my entire setup from Anchorlift (same brand as Denny's), the owner requested all the information on the boat and exact distances from the location of the batteries to the helm and from the helm to the bow where the windlass would be installed so they can customize all the wiring. He also asked for where I wanted to put the solenoid because he recommended it be placed in a dry location (in this case it's going in the helm storage). He also asked for the exact boat model and LOA to select the correct anchor size. So I sent them a schematic of the boat and all the measurements and they fabricated all the wiring with the in-line fuse, end connecters, solenoid, windlass and the exact size stainless steel plow anchor. It also came with a complete wiring schematic like most do. Now it's just a matter of gettin' 'er done. I don't remember if the wiring diagram lists which bank of batteries to connect to, but I'll check it. The fact that I have everything and it's ready to go is probably why going with the drum windlass alternative (while I think it would've been my preference now that I found out about it) is not going to happen. Unless...unless the anchor locker just doesn't end up being large enough to accommodate the entire length of chain and rode that I want/have and it gets all tangled up. Then we might have to consider taking a hit on the horizontal windlass and go with the drum so the entire line is spooled. That will suck, fo sho.
  15. Hatem

    2007 volvo 5.7 winterization thru flush port

    I think the problem will be if the flow of antifreeze through the flushport will be adequate enough. Since using the flushport with a conventional garden hose hooked up to a faucet, you have that constant water pressure forcing the water to the impeller housing and then through the rest of the engine. If you only siphon the antifreeze from a pair of 5 gallon buckets or just feed it through the flushport, not sure you'll get the adequate pressure and flow you'll need. That's the only concern I'd have.
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