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Hatem

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About Hatem

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    North of Boston

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  1. Hatem

    Yamaha F150 or F200?

    I'd want a bit more solid information about that to be sure. Intuition would tell me that an additional 50HP on top of an original 150 would get you a bit more top-end speed than a mere increase of 3 MPH. That sounds a bit low. Maybe a 6 - 8 mph increase would be more reasonable. I think it's 4x the HP needed to double the speed. You can use that formula to calculate a more accurate difference in top speed. At any rate, more HP is never a bad thing, but I know it boils down to whether the increase in motor benefits is worth the increase in $. If we take that formula and figure it out just based on a constant incremental increase, it comes out to around 12mph per each additional 50HP. But I don't think the increase in speed is incrementally constant. For example: 150HP = 50MPH 150 x 4 = 600HP = 100MPH 600/50 = 12MPH increase. Take that "alleged" 3MPH increase and my constant incremental increase of 12MPH and the middle ground is around 7.5MPH increase in top speed for an additional 50HP assuming the original top speed is 50MPH, which sounds about right. Anyone know the exact mathematical formula a bit better than my hack job, please have at it!
  2. Hatem

    Duo Prop Repair

    I bet you were cursing that #%&*%^ to no end. He must've been moving at a good rate, too, if he created enough of a wake to push the 307, sheesh. I find most boaters in our area to be courteous for the most part, while the few nitwits out there couldn't be more inconsiderate. I opened a thread on this drawbridge we go through periodically and it is tight as a bull's $^& in fly season and no way does anyone allow two-way traffic through it. I hope the bow didn't get bumped into the pile. From what I know, most SS props damage can be repaired up to a certain point. Bends, dings and small edges missing can be added. Smaller pieces can be welded and then grinded flush and polished. Not sure you can repair a missing blade or one that has 1/2 of it torn off. In that case it might be better forking out the $1,500 for a new set. I think the toughest part of a repair is balancing the props after they've been fixed. I think most of that is done by eye which is not as accurate as computerized balancing. Maybe some bigger prop shops have a better way of balancing them than by eye? I'm not sure. Something worth looking into for sure.
  3. Hatem

    Most efficient rpm...

    How do you know it's actually most "efficient" at 3,400 RPM? And why don't you know the MPH at that RPM? Don't you have a speedo as well as a reading on your GPS?
  4. Hatem

    Duo Prop Repair

    What happened, Curt? And what exactly is it on the internet about VP SS prop repairs? Give us more, bro.
  5. Hatem

    1981 restoration

    That was one of the first things I noticed from your pictures. Couldn't figure out how (or even why) the seat pedestals sat on those storage containers and for sure they weren't very stable. I think that's supposed to be a transom live well. It should have a hinged cover or two that act as a table top also to cut up bait and fish etc. In one of your pics (the view from inside the boat looking aft), it has a drain line/scupper on portside which makes me think that's the case. Many fishing boats have transom live wells. When you have some time, check out this thread on this forum here of a guy restoring a fishing boat and he reworked the deck and added a new transom live well, then added a swim platform/bracket for the outboard. http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=19826
  6. Hatem

    1981 restoration

    They must be pretty solid to bolt the two seats on them and be stable enough. How much would you sell it for? We need some kind of idea. Does it have that same live well also in the transom?
  7. Hatem

    1981 restoration

    1973?! That looks amazing for a 45 year-old boat! The hull looks nice and shiny, that thing is in excellent condition. The seat bases are longer and have the foot rest on them unlike the 81 which looks like they're mounted on storage units. Did you do any body work to it?
  8. Sucks. But at least the repair should be covered under your insurance. If you never took the boat out of the water until now, how did you take the prop off to check it and the shaft and thought they weren't damaged the first time? Did you pull it off under water?
  9. Hatem

    Props: How They're Made

    Thought this was pretty dam cool. The way Yamaha makes its props through one of the oldest methods called "investment casting" which was first used by the great Ancient Egyptians who developed/used this method of casting and making their jewelry. Really fascinating stuff. Essentially a cast is created for every single prop instead of having preformed molds or casts to pour the molten stainless steel into them. These are made using wax to first make the exact props which are then covered with ceramic and then the wax is melted away leaving the ceramic cast for the molten stainless steel to be poured in each one. You would think this is a much longer and costly process, kinda like making them twice once in wax and then in SS, but apparently this method is much faster than with premade and reusable casts.
  10. Hey TD, you should seriously consider marketing this thing you invented here before I steal it from you and take all the credit and $$$$$$$! Get it patented quickly and start making a prototype to pitch to a manufacturer, in a year or so you might be looking at buying a Pershing 74 to pull up to your mansion's private dock. I think you're onto something there. I hope you're having a great summer in arguably the most modified boat on this entire thread! And this is quite the thread with almost 94K views. How's it going? I have a question about that hardtop and if you had any issues installing what I think is a post-2011 Chaparral Signature 310 hardtop on to a 2006 Chaparral 310? I'm sure you had some fitting to do here and I'm guessing the beams were the same but you had to run into something that made the fitting of the new top a little bit of a challenge? How did you brace it?
  11. Hatem

    1981 restoration

    Is that flex tube plugged into an AC unit? lol. That stuff sucks a$$. It's one of the worst things to grind or sand. It turns into a fine powder that actually floats in the air for a while. Kinda like horsehair plaster. Plus it has silica in it which is the WORST thing for your lungs. This guy is great.. Andy from Boatworks Today probably does the best glassing & gelcoat application instructional videos out there. He's repairing/replacing this transom on an old Boston Whaler and it's got a nasty bend or curve to it and the way he handled that problem is great.
  12. Hatem

    Replacing Bilge Pump Questions

    Thanks. But what's interesting is that pump is 1/3 HP and rated maximum capacity of 2160 GPH & a flow rate at 10 ft. is 1620 GPH which is bizarre that despite it's size, motor power, electric draw is not much more than the much smaller Rules or Atwoods we have in our boats that are usually between 1,500 - 2000 GPH. But something tells me this size pump is the only thing that would have a much better chance of keeping up with a water breach in a hull just long enough to get you back to dock if you're not too far away.
  13. Hatem

    Tow vehicle break down?

    Oh ma goodness, lol. Yeah at least it cleared up for you on Sunday despite the drag of the vehicle situation. It's been raining cats and dogs up here through the entire weekend, so no boating whatsoever. And it looks like more rain this week. We went from 97 degrees to 67 degrees. Complete drag.
  14. Hatem

    Drive Position

    Ah, ok. Good to know, thanks. We're using a gasket sealer but he wanted to add an additional bead of something as a secondary sealer between the housing and the transom.
  15. Hatem

    1981 restoration

    Yeah it's pretty good. That guy is an animal lol. He went all out with that thing but then again, sometimes that's the best thing to do if you're willing to make the sacrifice. I couldn't remember and thought he put in a whole new motor and sterndrive but he didn't. He actually replaced a lot of parts on the outdrive and made it practically brand new. He also goes into great detail about the enamel and hardener he used with his HVLP gun to spray the outdrive and make it look brand new. I thought that was great. He went the poly way and not epoxy FYI. Something to be mindful about if and when you decide to do your stuff. He does a great job explaining the mixing of the tabbing & glassing/resin and all that stuff. Adding the chop strand and fumed silica to the resin to strengthen the filet (or as he called it the peanut butter mix) to fill in all the gaps and round the corners etc., really good stuff. He also used closed cell foam which is brilliant. That stuff doesn't absorb any moisture and he made channels at the bottom of the stringers near the keel so that if there ever was any water intrusion that the foam wouldn't absorb, it can find its way out the bilge drain. So many little cool details like that. He also didn't use marine plywood. He didn't think it was necessary not only because of cost, but because he knew he wasn't going to leave a single millimeter of bare wood. He covered everything with at least 2 coats of glass. He even applied resin on all 4 edges of every piece of stringer and bulkheads, some before installing them. Then he glassed the living daylights out of everything. One cool thing he mentioned that I thought was pretty interesting is when the laid the stringer down on the fiberglass hull (which if you noticed he spent a couple of days grinding that hull down to bare material which was incredible), he applied a thick bead of that liquid nail under the stringer. He didn't just glue the stringer down to the hull, he kept the stringers up a good 3/8" or so with those little tabs of rigid insulation and that space between was filled with the adhesive which he mentioned is better than applying the stringers tight onto the hull so that when the hull is bouncing and pounding off the water and it flexes, that thick bead acts as a shock absorber so those joints have a lesser chance of cracking. I thought that was a pretty cool detail and made a ton of sense. So many little things like that all over that entire series. He did spend a good amount of money. The initial batch for all the fiberglass materials was something like $1,600. Then add all the foam and all the additional resin that he probably had to get, along with the sheets of rigid insulation that he used to make templates of for the transom and deck and some of the specialty tools he had to get weren't cheap, either. But if you have the basic tools (most of the stuff you'll need is all the standard stuff we all have - cordless and corded drills, drill bits, saws, grinders, belt sanders, clamps, screws, glue etc, you're almost there.
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