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About Hatem

  • Birthday 02/07/1966

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    North of Boston

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  1. Hatem

    surge brakes

    That's interesting and there's actually a way to test that and see if it is indeed the way it works, on mine anyway. I can just disconnect the 5-pin electrical connector from truck to trailer and see if it backs up. Something tells me it won't work that way on mine because I'll never forget the 1st time we ever went boating on our own and we got to the ramp, waited in line until it was our turn and when I went to back in, trailer brakes just clamped right up and I couldn't move a millimeter backwards. The system wasn't bled properly is what I found out later but I had to pull out of the ramp and into the parking lot, get under the trailer and disconnect one of the lines and empty all the brake fluid out. Then we were able to backup but I lost all trailer brakes until we got home. Had to drive carefully. So I'm thinking mine definitely has the electrical lockout that bypasses the surge brakes from activating when backing up.
  2. Never said we couldn't boat all season. Not sure where you got that, ma man.
  3. Hatem

    surge brakes

    Interesting, jlai, because mine are drums and if those brakes are engaged going in reverse for whatever reason, the trailer ain't backing up an inch. And I'm towing with plenty of power so no issue there. I guess it all depends on your specific system and if brake fluid is filled and bled properly and lines are in good shape as well as the drums etc., brakes should work right and stop you completely. Not just a little bit.
  4. Nice work. Good to see someone posting a thread of their project with pics of the progress. Something that's been lacking around here for a while, now. Very refreshing to see. Actually Drew did his thread which was great also. I need to find a fuel level sensor to connect to either the Volvo Penta sender (mine looks very similar to that one you installed, probably a standard) to be able to see the exact fuel level in the tank on the NMEA2K function. Not sure if they even make one but seeing your installation just reminded me of that.
  5. That pic you sent me of the throttle installed looks amazing. Nice job.
  6. They make some nice boats. They just delivered that Azi to my buddy. Looking forward to getting on that thing next summer. Supposedly it's in great condition.
  7. I would've done mine this spring or even this summer since we never put the boat into the water and I had access to it the whole time. But between the cylinder repair and just work in general, I never had any stretch of time to get it done. Real bummer because if there ever was a good time to do it, it would've been this summer but was just too dam busy. Definitely gonna give it a shot this spring.
  8. Woah, very nice. Any new a cool features or upgrades that come with that very cool-looking throttle control?
  9. Hey Matt, sorry my friend. I have to admit complete failure in this attempt and I was forced to get a refurbished one. Since I boat in saltwater and these aren't the simpler ones with just the outside cap that you need the two or three-pronged tool to turn and remove and that also protects the interior parts if there are any like that PITA brass cap and in fact, the brass cap end along with the retaining clip are completely exposed at the front and so that brass cap with all its brutally pathetic and soft frailty lol was pretty stuck onto the cylinder walls. It wasn't going in that 3/8" to pull the retaining clip out (without getting severely beaten and damaged nor was it coming out for that matter.) Honestly, if I was a bit more patient with it and spent a few more days on it soaking it in some PB Blaster or WD-40 for a bunch of days maybe a whole week, I might've ended up cleaning it enough of corrosion and connectivity to slide it out. But again, this 54 year-old body just isn't as patient as it used to be anymore and we have the great white shark visiting trip to get going on so.... If yours looks anything like RoyR's, then you would have much better luck at getting that brass cap out than me. Mine has spent 4 seasons in saltwater so, she ain't a virgin anymore (so to speak) lol! She's starting to look a little rough but here's the other interesting part is that I was able to free the retaining clip without having to push back the cap. The only reason Bill Lawrence says to push back the cap is to be able to push the retaining clip out a little bit by poking a tiny screw (I used the back end of a drill bit) and wedge it out enough to catch it with a flathead screwdriver and remove it. I just put in on the vice in the shop, (yep, disconnect the hydraulic fluid lines - I can tell you how to fill the fluid back up later it's much easier than you think probably the easiest part of the whole thing) and stick the cylinder on a vice nice and tight and tap that drill bit or Allan wrench (probably a 3/32) and tap it lightly with a ball peen hammer if you have one or just a small hammer since it doesn't take much and that retaining clip pops right out of its slot just enough for you to grab your flathead screwdriver while holding the bit and pull the entire retaining clip outta there without damaging the brass cap. Now you don't have to worry about having to push that cap INWARD 3/8" to get that clip out and then have to pull in OUT now?!?! Pushing it either way is bad enough even with all the fluid drained completely from the cylinder so why do it twice when you can only do it once. So that would be one of my definite suggestions because is worked with me. My view is that this will work with these unsealed VP end-cap cylinders when they're still relatively new and all the parts haven't changed tolerances yet from severe changes in temperatures, the environment, salt all the usual crap and add corrosion to all of that. - So to recap - take the two fluid lines out, the front and the back ones (they have their own locking plates that come off when you unscrew them and then they pop right out of the cylinder) with very little effort. - Put the cylinder on a vice in your shop or outside on a tree stump (as long as it's sturdy enough) and pull the rod back and forth until you drain all the fluid in the cylinder out of it. From the front and the back. You'll notice the fluid is leaving as the rod pushing becomes easier. - Once you think all the fluid is out, turn in on the vice to where that bottom access hole to the retaining clip is facing up so you can see it. Stick a 3/32" drill bit or same diameter Allan wrench or whatever you think will work best and tap it lightly with a hammer. Once you know the bit is catching the clip an you're ready to tap it a bit harder with the hammer, line up the bit so it'll push the clip out and away from the brass cap. That's actually an important step. 1 you don't risk damaging queen frailty brassacapa the 1st of her kind lol and 2 it gives you better opportunity to catch the clip with a flathead screw driver or even small, pointy needle nose pliers and pop it outta there. - Now you can take it off the vice and put it upright on your bench table and squirt and fill up the whole top where the brass cap is with as much PB Blaster as possible. Keep it soaked for days and then try pushing the rod out to force that brass cap out. It you ever start seeing that brass cap move a millimetre, I would be wicked happy because that means the toughest part is almost over and the rest is Land O' Lakes!
  10. T-Bone you pulled a Hatman what the heck?! lol. That first pic is crazy because that black actually did look like bottom paint.
  11. Hatem

    Grill on boat.

    That's a heII of a boat the 2020 317 SSX with the top that has the moon roof. Looks like they took a lot of features from the new 347 SSX and put in onto this which used to be the 307 SSX. Either way, she's a beauty and I'm guessing by the time you realize how much you're paying for it and winter storage and maintenance and all the important issues, a grill will be the last thing on your mind but either way, there are many options and you can just do a search on this forum and quite a few threads will pop up with all sorts of types including the new flameless or LED or something like that? lol.
  12. Yeah I was going to +1 Drew's and Denny's suggestion but maybe if you just showed them the pic and asked them, they might have some clear bonding agent you can use to give it a few more years of life until it will probably reach a time when it needs to be redone. Hey, at least it looks like it gets a lot of use and that's a good thing.
  13. Hatem

    Lake George 2020

    Awesome to see rescue dogs find their forever homes. Love the eye patches. Looks like an amazing place.
  14. Yours is a whole different type and set up. It's a top that is mostly made of fiberglass filled with foam and things like that. The OP's is like mine, the older style radar arches which were made of hollowed aluminum and powder-coated finish. I've taken that cover off many times (first time like in the pics below was just being inquisitive come to find out the nav light was leaking) but also to snake wires for my new radio antenna and other things. Previous owner even left a snake to use as a guide. But he can use whatever he likes lol. Does starboard even come this thin? Any metal fabricating shop could make one of these.
  15. @Dennis A I was thinking about this plate from another thread one of the members opened up about possibly using starboard for the under arch access and it made me think of this thing that the guys from Garmin either fabricated or it already existed as part of a base plate they have to select from and at some point either today or tomorrow I'll be remounting the radar back on from its winter sleep and this time I'll take better pictures and get a really good look at it and see if those cracks are all the way through and if it is in fact starboard or something else like that material from your link which was aluminum sandwiched in starboard or some other type of synthetic board? I forget, but when I took the radar off for the winter I was doing it in a hurry so I didn't take the time to look at the cracks but I noticed that they went all the way through but the pieces weren't coming apart at all. Really weird.
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