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Hatem

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About Hatem

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    North of Boston

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  1. Hatem

    VP DP-S drive service

    The design of that VP drive is rather unusual, especially the seal that @Chap243 was referring to. That thing only goes around the bottom exhaust section but there is no seal for the entire top half of the mating surfaces of the drive where the U-joint insert is?! So what prevents water from getting into the U-joints? Because you know the bottom seal works well, but where the drive connects above it will most definitely allow water to enter and the only thing I can think of that prevents any water from entering the bellows and flooding the U-joints is where the end of the round, cylindrical casing of the shaft meets the end flap of the bellows. Once you tighten the studs and that casing pushes up against that end of the bellows, I guess it creates enough of a seal to prevent water from getting into the bellows and flood the U-joints/shaft? OR, does water actually get in there where the universal joint is spinning and the only barrier to preventing water from traversing further into the coupler and engine are those two, lousy little O-rings? I can't believe that would be the case. Maybe that's why those U-joints are permanently sealed with no zerk fittings because they're engulfed in water all the time? Hard to believe that shaft & universal joint spins in water, but also hard to believe the only stop gap seal is the shaft casing on the drive butting up against the bellows that keeps out all that water. Strange design. I'd much rather see a seal that wraps around the entire connection of the drive to the housing plate, kinda like the Mercs do (at least the Alpha does IIRC) and not just that little exhaust gasket. Man, Volvo sucks! So @Curt, I noticed the pulley is in really bad shape and paint flaking off and kinda rusty and @#$%@#, so I took it off and been soaking it in muriatic acid overnight and now I'll be putting it in CRL for another few hours and then wire-brushing it and then will paint it. Hopefully that, along with a new serpentine belt will stop anymore of that flaking I was getting.
  2. Hatem

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    Not surprised you're bragging about your dishonesty.
  3. Hatem

    To change or not to change Impeller

    Man, I just pulled mine out and I wish I didn't. I was tempted to throw it right back in there! Look at this thing, and I'm slipped in saltwater and I put about 100hrs per season on the boat. Oh, not only that, I put this impeller in back in 2015 lmfao and the boat sat in storage for the winter of 2016 & 2017. There's way too much hype about changing these things. Same with the old one I pulled out before this one was in practically the same condition. Maybe this is the result of flushing religiously I don't know, but I'm sure it helps and this new one is staying in when I pull off the housing and it looks like this? It ain't coming out.
  4. Hatem

    VP DP-S drive service

    What I found interesting, though, is that because I had to put the throttle into full forward position to set the cable out far enough to disconnect it at the outdrive, I didn't notice until a few days later that my RPM gauge is at 2000 and just staying there with everything off. I'm thinking it probably has something to do with the throttle position sensor sending a reading to the EMC, which then figures there's no actual power being delivered but then sends a signal to the gauge anyway and puts it at 2000. Anyone else ever see that?
  5. Hatem

    New motor wont start- need advise.

    Put a tad bit of this stuff (Mystery Oil) in with your gas at winterizing and oil when you change it. Stuff is amazing and works really well. Recommneded to me by an old-timer mechanic friend of mine and I use it all the time. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Marvel-MM13R-Mystery-Oil-32-oz/537954757?sourceid=csebr03c609f53f58094c3dbbc199e8bcbdc400&wmlspartner=bizratecom&affcmpid=646316079&tmode=0000&veh=cse&szredirectid=15584528372801639683910070301008005
  6. Hatem

    New motor wont start- need advise.

    Obviously that bizarre design and particularly the brass fixture and bent tube have A LOT to do with why it's so hard to pump out oil from the #%&*%^. If it wasn't for the oil container that reads level of quarts, I would never know how many I've pulled out once it stops pulling out any more. At least I can see between 6 and 7 quarts and I know I've gotten more of it. But it takes a #$%$&$% hour to pull that @#$%@# out! Man, Volvo sucks!
  7. Hatem

    VP DP-S drive service

    Oh and BTW, I've discovered that a great percentage of the water that comes in while underway and especially when it rains is from those air vents on the side. Those are horribly protected against water intrusion is many ways. The way they face and that cover plate is about as lousy as it gets for the way it's fastened to the hull. That's getting fixed ASAP no that the bilge is dry and clean, we want to keep it that way. Plus I think the starboard swim platform popup cleat is alsot leaking water and that's going to be a nightmare getting to the nuts underneath it to remove it and put better sealant on.
  8. Hatem

    VP DP-S drive service

    Yeah man I'm telling you something isn't right. if only @ToddDavid would chime in as to whether the original ones he pulled out and replaced were the same size as the ones that were in there, I'd know that mine were probably the wrong ones and these new ones are in fact the correct ones. That's the only explanation I can think of because they were a bit tight to take out and the new ones do fit, just not as snug as the old ones and if 3 different places sent me the same O-rings that are bigger, then I can only assume the older and smaller ones that were on there weren't the correct ones. I'm 99.99999% sure O-rings DO NOT shrink in time and usage, even in excessive heat. It's quite the opposite and they stretch. Are you talking about the Volvo Penta on the side of that upper case cover? That's good idea if that is what you're talking about. You can't see it very well but I taped off the Volvo Penta Emblems wherever they were before spraying the paint, that's why you can't see them. The bottom bullet part of the drive I'll paint once it's back on since I can't reach it well with the spray while it's on the cart. I also soaked the props in this stuff which I even used in the bilge and it worked GREAT on all the oily and rust spots. The bilge gelcoat looks brand new in there I was psyched but had to be really careful with it getting on wires and cables etc, since you know what it really is? It's glorified Muriatic acid lol. They might've just added a pinch of water and/or bleach to it and called it ON & OFF. But it's 100% Muriatic acid and I can tell just by the smell of it. Works great, though. Had to tape on amd attach different brushed to the end of roller poles to reach the hard areas. Go back over the areas with a mix of 50/50 Simple Green and hot water and what a result.
  9. Hatem

    Engine noise - “popping” or “missing”

    Meh.....it's only a dab at first to clear out any carbon residue that was impeding the opening and closing of the throttle plate. It wasn't like spraying and cleaning the entire throttle and linkages and walls etc., and we did suggest at some point to remove the throttle and clean it well. A little spray pushing carbon buildup and residue will dilute it enough that once it's in the cylinder, it's getting burnt up and out the exhaust like everything else the air brings in with it. Nice. Did you go to the marina that gave you the original quote for the cool fuel module? That's awesome that it's running even better than before. It's like a bonus since your expectation was just for the problem to be fixed and go away. So instead of only that happening, now it's performance has even improved on top of the fix. Love when that happens.
  10. Hatem

    VP DP-S drive service

    Let's see if yours looks half as good as this thing, pal!
  11. Hatem

    Manifold and Elbow/Riser Issue

    Oh I've tried matching the parts numbers till I've gone half blind. The manifold is available, but the 6" riser and the 7-1/2" elbow that correspond to the stamped numbers on the current pieces are impossible to find. I'm still trying.
  12. Hatem

    Manifold and Elbow/Riser Issue

    Ah, ok. I kinda thought that's what you meant but you never know and I just wanted to be sure if that was the case how you handled it. Just kept tightening them I suppose. I'll tell you what, this will be the first time I'm doing mine and I was in there today contorting this old 53 year old body that's been abused to no end through the physical nature of my work the past 32 years, but I can sure as @#$^#^ see it catching up. I lay down in the transom way and try to reach in the bilge under the fireboy and back as far as the recessed platform to clean just accumulated soot to make it look nice etc, and after reaching as far as possible, it's a major shore just pulling back the troops!!!! Holy @#$%@# by then the elbow is stiff, the knee caps are sore from wedging up against the FB floor and the elbow is locked up and so is the shoulder LMFAO! This SUUUUUCCCCCKKKKSSSS!!!! BTW, I hope you don't mind using your thread to square up my manifolds and risers with a couple fellas here, mainly @Curt and @rjbergen? I got a few questions for them about these gaddam parts numbers because this is a bigasss order and I don't want to get the wrong ones and have to deal with shipping back etc. While I was contorted in the bilge, I read the numbers off the exhaust manifolds, the 6" risers and the elbows and Michigan Motors said they have them on a brand new 8.1 they're taking off and shipping to me because this 8/1 model with the tall risers is apparently a mother #%&*%^ to fine. BUT, the chick a MM sent me the parts numbers and while the manifold matches, the riser and elbow do not. Maybe one of the fellas @Curt if you have a minute can see where the discrpenecy is coming from. I already left them an email and they're closed so I'll probably hear from them tomorrow. This girl sounds reaaaalllllyyyy young and sorry to be age-prejudice, but I really don't trust her experience with a matter like this that is this costly. My numbers off the existing manifold, riser and elbow currently on the engine are: Manifold - 3847640 6" riser - 3818262 Elbow - 3863479 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What she set me with her quote Manifold - 384760 (that one matches) Exhausts riser 3842853 (different number) 4" Exhaust riser 386301 (not only a different number but the wrong length riser 2" short). Her invoice has the right manifold # right but the wrong others and the riser is for a 4" and not a 6 inch and they're calling both pieces risers when was is an elbow. I'll have to check as see what those numbers correspond to but I know the 4" riser is incorrect since the one I have is a 6". This is the headache with this crap.
  13. Hatem

    gasoline tank capacity

    Sharp. Perfect angle for that pic with the sharp bow and the windlass underneath and the squarish stern. Very nice.
  14. Hatem

    Ever witness a boating accident?

    You know, even in my F-450 dually with all its heavy duty everything, once I'm backed in all the way to the dualiies just at the waterline and I know the boat's stern is floating, I'll put it in park, press the hand brake and then get out and put one of those large, heavy, rubber chalks on my left front wheel before doing anything else. Plus I'm always in 4X4 Low going up or down. I go way overboard because I don't care! I'd rather look like a paranoid donkey than suffer the consequence that could've been avoided. AND I always back down the ramp with the dock on my right side (even if I have to wait 1/2 hour for it) because it much easier to pull the boat off the trailer and tie it off and access the truck immediately, especially doing it solo. When I am doing it solo, I actually tie off the midship line to a dock cleat with plenty of slack while holding the bow line in my hand as I winch the boat down. That way I can grab her from sailing away with the bow line and the midship prevents the stern from turning sideways in the ramp lane. What this guy was doing IN the boat halfway down the ramp close to the water is beyond me. Not sure why he needed to get into the boat at that moment? If he was near the dock, his jump out of the boat wouldn't have been so nasty. And those Mitsubishi brakes had problems as well and apparently there was a major recall for them. Even if he was in Park, something went wrong with the transmission.
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