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Everything posted by Hatem

  1. Can you post the paint exactly, pls? My concern with coating them with anything that roughs them up is losing performance. The smoother they are the better they cut and push water, I would think, no? And my problem has been mostly marine growth and not electrolysis TBH. Anodes and the Volvo Penta galvanic protection works really well.
  2. Reading your first post tells me the only concern you have is because at some point you heard the outdrive should be pulled and inspected. Now that got you worried yet you also said this: If you have a good weekend to spend and your skill level is good enough to fabricate a drive cart, then it's worth doing. But if that was me and my boat, I wouldn't bother. Another wicked short season and that super well taken care of boat will be perfectly fine without checking anything this year. Do it next year. Not sure if you followed @Toddavid' thread where he pulled is outdrive and changed the seal and inspected the alignment with the tool and did it all in one day? If not, well worth the read but it is a Volvo but that doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things because the basic principles are the same and in our case, it's the throttle cable that needs to be carefully taken apart before pulling the drive out completely. But start by leveling the boat on the trailer like Wingnut said by lowering the front jack. I have bottom paint which is level to water line so I was easily able to put my 6'-6" level on is and lower the trailer until that level line on the bottom paint was perfectly level. But to get the drive out, it needed to be lowered even more, but that can happen later as you build the cart just a little shy of the height of the cavitation plate and have a few extra pieces of wood to throw in there as needed once you find that exact angle that allowed you to pull the drive out nice and easy. That's what I did and worked like a charm. 15 minutes to build this cart with 2 -8ft 2x4s and 4 medium rated cartwheels all from Home Depot. Checked bellows which were perfectly fine (U-joints and exhaust) and U-joints are sealed so no need for any grease. Cleaned transom assembly very well from growth and grime from the slip which you don't have since you trailer, so even easier for you. Cleaned all the corrosion and taped off stickers and Volvo markings and spray painted Volvo silver after thoroughly cleaning. Added a bunch of grease to the upper shaft and slid it right into the coupler and only had to turn the shaft 1/4inch before the splines lined up and she slid right in. Then hooked the throttle cable to the linkage on the drive and tightened all 6 bolts to a snug torque. Ran the engine and tested the drive for leaks and anything else. Even compounded and polished the props. Then I added a special wax to them called "Prop Glob" to prevent marine growth. First time using is so will see how they work out. Then I had to go a step further because I slip the boat and can't just leave that nice silver Volov paint on and need to anti-foul it. Unfortuantley I lose that beautiful silver paint ut I know it acts like a primer and additional protector for the outdrive and so I don't mind it. The anti-fouling paint is very flat and works GREAT!!!! Used it last year and loved the results. Greased the prop shaft and timed them exactly and installed them and tightened them just snug enough.
  3. Yes, exactly. Take many pics of all the places and post them so we can see them and tell you like it is. Hopefully they'll have the outdrive off and maybe even the bell housing so we can get a really good view of the pivot pin and steering arm like Bt Doctor mentioned since that rust and corrosion can spread to all those other parts as well.
  4. But for the love of God....WHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY?????? What's the reason to SWAP a butt plug in the water?!?!?! Is it leaking for some strange reason? Which type is it, the conventional 5/8" threaded end plug or that other, weird compression one? Still, though, wwwwhhhhhyyyyyyyyyy??????? OP is not letting us in on this important piece of info, "for his friend."
  5. Hatem

    Alleghany River boating

    Holy crap, STT! You took a pair of dixies and lived through them to tell us the story?! That is quite something and forgive me for presuming anything, but I'm guessing you're no spring chicken any more and taking a couple of hard falls off a bike (including a flip over the hand bars) is not a easy thing to take for men our age, if you're in your early 50's like me! Glad you're ok and despite all that, sounds like it was a neat trip and some amazing site seeing. Last summer I was building a Japanese cedar screened porch over a Koi fish pond. It was pretty cool and the architect had designed certain cool features since part of the porch cantilevers over the pond, he designed hatches in the Ipe deck floor to open and feed the fish which come right up to that hatch with their gaping mouths and it's the coolest thing. But it required a lot of careful staging to get the part over the pond built. So I rigged a few custom things that all worked out well even though they looked terribly dangerous, but as soon as I get up on the regular 6" step ladder and over reach to the right, the ladder goes out from under me, I land on top of it with my ribs and slam my head on a rock. Needless to say, I thought I broke my ribs, broke my right arm because it was still extended when I went down and thought I had a concussion as well. Had to sit down for a while and couldn't feel my arm at all. My ribs were screaming in pain and my head was bleeding. After half an hour I started to regain feeling in my arm and was able to get up and stretch and ribs were only sore and not broken. Thank God! Funny thing is about a month ago, I get in my truck and head home (about an hour drive) and when I get into the driveway, I couldn't even get out of the truck. My tailbone was hurting so bad and I had no idea! Also, at the same time, the exact spot where I hit my ribs on the ladder started killing me. I couldn't believe it WTF is this pan coming back now for? Maybe I irritated it or something. 2 hours later I'm coughing blood in the sink and I have the chills!?!?!? Stayed that way for a few days and as I was getting ready to finally submit to going to those donkeys who wear those white sheets and that stethoscope thing that pretend they know what's wrong with you, the coughing blood stopped, chills went away and tailbone started feeling better. That was definitely a WTF was that!?!?!?! lol BTW, I hope you reacted a little better and quicker with your hands to protect the fall off that front flip than this poor old fella. Ooooofff!
  6. First thing to do is find out WTF do they mean by "the transom assembly is shot with 6" of play" and get a clear definition of it because it sounds like they're trying to hose you down with hot water and not even have the decency to call it rain. I'm sorry for my bluntness and please don't take anything I say personally, just trying to help you and save you from that shower! The most important and probably most accurate reply so far is from @Mi3sons. That TERRIBLE design by Mersuckery of the pivot pin is the cause of 99.9999999999999999999% of all thise steering issues. Water gets in them really easily, rust out the pivot pin which is responsible for the rotating of the outdrive and next thing you know, you're getting all that playing and wobbing etc. So ask them as if you know what you're talking about when it comes to that pivot pin and ask them what is exactly shot, the pivot pin or the entire transom assembly? And see what they say before paying ANYTHING! If it's the pin, that is not a $6K repair and you will thank us later. Now, if the rust has gone beyond the pivot pin and corrosion has spread to the transom assembly and that's what they mean by "shot", that's a different story and does require removing the engine to remove the transom assembly to either sand it down, remove the corrosion and rebuild it and reinstall it or....install a new one. That could be closer to the $6K figure but you need to find that out and see it for yourself so that shower doesn't come down. Unfortunately, yes. Like mentioned in the first answer, water intrusion from a horribly designed and not well sealed pivot pin that ends up rusting and corroding. Yes, they should've noticed it if they were anyway half decent mechanics since they would've checked the steering after replacing the bellows and all that other stuff, so they would've noticed it and should've told you since this pivot degradation doesn't happen overnight. If the corrosion went beyond the pivot pin and there is no way to save the transom assembly and it needs to be replaced, probably, yes. Because then unfortunately the engine will have to come out in order to remove the transom assembly and replace it. BUT, if it's just the pivot pin, there is an aftermarket kit that is 2% the amount of work to repair. So again, best thing to do is find out what they mean by what is shot, the entire transom assembly or just the pivot pin. @DarkMantle has ran into this same exact thing and has done the repair kit himself and saved a ton of money. The important part is that you understand what exactly is wrong and don't get ripped off.
  7. I'm still wondering what the reason is behind wanting to swap the original plug?
  8. Yes! I say he's right because that's the same thing I've heard from several mechanics who eat, sleep, rest live and go to the bathroom boats. I just pulled my outdrive off a month ago and checked allinement was spot on after buying the boat 4 years old and now it's 9. The other stuff mentioned in the post above about the hull curing and all that has its validity I'm sure, but all you need to do when you take the drive off for regular maintenance is check that alignment and you'll see it clear as day. If it's off even by a tiny bit it's noticeable. Other than that, those guys are right.
  9. Hatem

    This is for Hatem

    Still haven't found out what that make and model boat is yet. This is probably not the right forum to ask this question. I thought I'd give it a shot anyway. Maybe we'll see it late this week when we go out and get a closer look at the name.
  10. So no 496HO guys wanna chime in with their numbers?
  11. Anyone who wishes to list the 3 above for their boats would be great. I'd like to do a comparison, even if your engine is different than mine it doesn't matter. It'll still be good to see the relationship between all three and find a common pattern if one exists. The reason I'm asking is that for the last 4 years, these were my numbers. Volvo 8.1 158-162 mostly 160 almost all the time 17-22 mph. The last two times we've been out this year, my temperature (with a brand new impeller) has fluctuated very strangely. The variation is from 153 to 167. The last 4 years I've never seen it move beyond a low of 158 and a high of 162. A 4 degrees variation only. Now I'm looking at a variation difference of 15 degrees?!?!?! Worries me a bit also that I'm seeing 167 and a couple of times I see 168 which I have never seen before. Some might think that's nothing and they run higher temps on 160 degree thermostats, but it's very different than what I've had going on for the last 4 years. So if you're interested in posting your numbers, do so that way we can all compare and see. The more the better.
  12. Hatem

    Port Enginer Error Code

    That's pretty much it when you sum it all up. OP, It says "Check shift actuator" so your digital throttle being a fly by wire throttle still has to send the electrical signal to an actual mechanical actuator that pulls the throttle cable and something is worng with that actuator itself. You need to find that and see what's wrong with it. Not that difficult, actually. That's actually pretty good that it pretty much tells you almost exactly what the problem is.
  13. Hatem

    Ideas remove fuel from tank

    I used a non-rated marine vacuum to suck up all the bilge water I had in the boat after all the heavy rain we had the other day and it worked like a charm. Pulled out every single drop it was amazing and so much better than the way I used to do it with a sponge and a bucket. That took forever and had to contort myself to get as much water way under the engine and in the far back spots that are hard to reach and even that way I couldn't get it all out 100%. Vacuum picked up every single drop to the end!!!! Loved it. Gonna do that all the time from now on. Do they make a marine-rated vacuum? Problem is, now, I need to pay $6 billion to buy a dock box to store it there along with other stuff I don't want to either carry in the boat and increase its weight or have to walk back up the truck to the parking lot to put it away. I was also surprised to find several, regular 110 GFI outlets on my dock power pole, instead of that oversized socket locking socket outlet for those heavy duty insulated shore power cords.
  14. Hatem

    Just cause we have a bunch of airplane lovers

    Glad you took it for what it was intended, just a funny despite in a little bit of bad taste.
  15. Hatem

    Windless anchor for a 276 ssx

    Tested the windlass for the first time yesterday. Couldn't take any photos or videos for obvious reasons since we were off shore by about 5 miles in 100ft deep water and can't get a good view of the anchor in motion without an extended GoPro stick which we don't have and needed to get the @#$^#^ away from all those miserable lobster traps. But it worked like a charm form the helm and from the anchor locker switch. Dropped all 150ft and retrieved it all at once. I couple of times it got snagged and I had to pull and straighten out the pile of rode that's tightly packed in the locker, but as I did that and had to tighten the gipsy cover, it pulled the rest of the rode very easily. And that's not exactly a lightweight anchor, either. My only question to Denny and any others whom might know and are interested is when we were docked and I was trying to wash off the salt that the line brought in with it, I noticed that the electrical connections to the windlass motor are pretty exposed and don't like it. Any solution to protect those connections without melting a rubber sleave over it? Or is that the only way to do it right?
  16. I have red and black lines. Mostly use the black on the dock side to tie off and occasionally I'll use an extra red one at the bow like in the pic when it's really windy at the marina, and it was really windy on Saturday and I was by myself. Made docking very hairy. My next test will be to WOT. Really tough to do that in the ocean, though. Saturday we had constant 3-footers (obviously hard to tell from just the one pic of the stern shot) as I was out solo and with the 276's size, you really feel the pounding if you go too fast in that kinda rough. But I'd like to see not only how the temperature reacts and (I already know it's producing its designated RPM range so that's a good thing), but I'd like to find out what is my top speed and RPM are since I've never actually taken it to that. Always been afraid of losing control in rough water. Speaking of red, I'm also thinking of adding some color to the boat at some point. I'd like to paint the radar arch a different color than white and maybe add some silver & red lines on the black hull. Not sure yet.
  17. You said "swapped" in the title, that means you're asking about getting in the water and unscrewing the plug that's in there and then putting a new one in? Can I ask why would be the reason for doing that besides the plug not being 5/8" or that other type that compresses in and is leaking? I know it wouldn't be easy to do even for a young, sprite man up in our waters which are currently (I think) around 58*, maybe 60* and very uncomfortably cold. I'd make sure the backup pump is working on top of the main one until I can reach a safe area to beach the boat and be able to do it comfortable. Why do you ask?
  18. Hatem

    Just cause we have a bunch of airplane lovers

    Speed tape it is. Some humor.
  19. I wasn't thinking of the diesel that Dennis pointed out. I thought there was a 4.2 as well as a 4.3 with the latter being much more common one but I guess I was wrong. Had some much better temp readings in all RPM and speed ranges today. Waters were much calmer and I ran 4200RPM at 37mph for about 3 minutes or so. It gets tough to sustain it with so many boats leaving huge wakes on top of temperamental chop. But we had a few clearings for it and the real twist was at some point around 3,000 RPM I was getting temps fluctuating between 153 and 158. But it never reached 167 like that first time even coming off a hot run, it would get up to 164 maybe a couple of times 165 for a very short period and then cool right back down to 158-160. Got some great photos and videos but probably won't post them. I'll get to the bottom of this strange temp fluctuation.
  20. Hatem

    VP DP-S drive service

    Instead of opening a whole thread just for this, I have this brand new impeller that's the wrong size for my pump housing, it's smaller. I did install it and ran the engine and watched the temp go up past 160 to 165 and shut her down, then realizing it's not the rght impeller for my engine. Too late o return it so I'm happy to give it away since I'm not in the mood of walking around the marina asking everyone if they want it and if it fits. Most of them have outboards so not sure if it works with that. The number on the impeller itself is #21213650. The box has a different number which is probably why the guy at Power Products gave it to me instead of the correct one. Has the O-ring and box and I can ship it to you if you can use it, jet let me know. Otherwise I'm tossing it. The one to the right.
  21. Did you get my tags at all about the Chaparral boots by any chance?  Is there another way to go about this  instead of reaching out to you on this forum?  I looked through the website but couldn't find it but that's happened before as I know not everything is posted or listed on the site.

    Please let me know when you get a chance.



  22. Hatem

    Just cause we have a bunch of airplane lovers

    Speaking of maintenance. This isn't duct tape in case anyone was wondering.
  23. Hatem

    Old Threads...

    Who cares? And I have no problem with it since I don't own the forum and hence don't have any right to tell anyone what to post and what not to post and where to post it. And if you look at the majority of these older threads, they're filled with excellent information when people weren't so lazy to post a bunch of pics and open threads about projects they're doing and solutions they came up with which people now are running into the same thing. It also beats the heII out of 7/8th of the CRAP topics that get posted lately and in that last few years. When was the last decent DYI major project that was posted on here with tons of high-quality pictures of each step? I can only think of 1 and a few great sample on the cool modifications thread but that's about it. No problem with rehashing old and goodies threads.
  24. Hatem

    boat blower 2017 203 vrx

    Doesn't get any simpler than that. Exactly what I do. Once I open the hatch, I stick my nostrils in there and get a good woof all round and it's especially easy for me since the ffuel tank and hoses in and out of it are right there at the opened edge of the hatch including the fuel pump on the front of the motor the way Volvo designs it. Once it smells like that certain, common, fiberglass/bilge/boat smell and nothing leaking or out of the ordinary, hatch stays open and blower goes on for 4+ minutes then engine cranked. Then a secondary engine check just to be sure the systems operating under pressure are not now pushing things out and everything is staying in their respective conduits and parts. Close hatch and do the last part of your statement, go have fun!