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Tavern Monk

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About Tavern Monk

  • Birthday January 21

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    South Jersey

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  1. Tavern Monk

    Bravo 3 Hits Hard Going into Gear

    Ugh,was thinking something like that. They differed from year to year didn't they?
  2. Tavern Monk

    285ssi re power

    20 hours is high if it is a drop in Mercruiser replacement. If they are selling you a long block, then the extra time accounts for them swapping your old parts to the new motor. Your cost might be the same either way but with the long block option you are paying for labor and not new parts.
  3. Tavern Monk

    Bravo 3 Hits Hard Going into Gear

    Have a 2000 240ssi with the 7.4mpi and Bravo 3. Shift cable, outdrive service, u joints, bellows... were all done this year. Shifting was extremely quiet & smooth, but it hesitated for 3 or 4 seconds going into reverse. Had the cone clutch, shift fork, and bearings replaced. There is no more hesitation going into reverse. Shifting into forward and reverse is instantaneouse, but it shifts into gear very hard. I almost feel bad putting it into gear sometimes. Didn't realize how bad it actually was until my friend was docking it for my while I was on the floater and I could hear it from 15 feet away go into gear. RPM are just over 600 or 650 or so. Any thoughts, recommendations, or similar experiences after a cone clutch replacement?
  4. My 2000 240 SSi got a pretty decent overhaul this year. Last thing I'm working on is replacing the portable toilet. So a simple question. What is preferred a piston pump or bellows pump. I'm having trouble deciding between the Thetford 260P or 260B.
  5. My engine was overheating at WOT. Then it would start running warm while just running hard. Installed new thermostat, new impeller, and backflushed the system. Still doing it. Installed new manifolds & riser. The old ones didn't look bad enough to be causing the problem. While the engine was accessible, decided to replace all the hoses as a precaution. Problem # 1 was found, the honeycomb engine oiler cooler was partially clogged even after backflushing the system. I took it off & used a straight piece of wire to poke out all the organic debris. Problem # 2 was found by the mechanic, the fresh water hose coming from the outdrive was crushed by salt build up and restricting flow! Problem # 1 didn't cost anything to fix. Problem # 2 cost a bit, but still a heck of alot more then overheating the engine. Just a few things to look for outside the ordinary.
  6. Tavern Monk

    Manifold & Riser Advice - What do you use?

    I saw this thread was still alive so I thought would check in & share my experience with the Riser and Manifold job. First of all, I bought everything form Lighthouse Marine in NY. Salesman was super knowledgable and looked up all my parts with the engine serial # for me. Parts shipped the same day & actually arrived the next day with regular shipping since I'm not that far away. I went with the Barr to save a few dollars over OEM. After all the reading I did, people tended to prefer the Osco or Barr, then Sierra, & lastly GLM. Over all the job went very smooth. Took the rear seat out, batteries, & fresh water tank so I had plenty of room to work. Spread out a canvas drop cloth and kept the boat spotless. The kits came everything, EXCEPT new drain petcocks. The gaskets were high quality graphite ones. I decided not to use sealant. Do I think it hurts in every case, no probably not, but this is an exhaust part and heats up. Plus, I wasn't comfortable with the seal between the graphite and a silicon sealant. I did use gasket adhesive to get it together, but found a better trick. I cut the heads off two of the old riser bolts; threaded these into the manifold; slipped on the riser gasket; installed the riser, installed two new riser bolts; and then removed the two "studs" that I had made. Used a 1/4" die grinder to clean all the surfaces on the engine and new risers and manifolds. FYI - a red shop rag cut in quarters fits perfectly in the exhaust port to keep out dirt and debris Everything went together smooth and the job is 100%. I torqued it twice in the backyard and then took it for a run and re-torqued one last time before putting the boat back together. So far, so good! Two last bits of advice... 1) have a plan in place to remove a bolt with a stripped head. I got lucky, but came close to having to deal with it. 2) watch the video from Lighthouse Marine and the job will go smoothly.
  7. Tavern Monk

    Manifold & Riser Advice - What do you use?

    My mechanic told me that is the double edged sword with keeping the boat on a lift or trailer after salt water use. Has to be rinsed well or the interior corrosion is actually worse because air gets in the engine after water drains out. The salt water that dries on the outdrive also crystallizes and can eat stuff quicker as well. If you pull it every use which I do, rinse it asap.
  8. Tavern Monk

    2004 Chaparral 190ssi overheating

    All good advice. What engine & drive do you have? I was having some intermittent over heating issues & it turned out to be the manifolds and risers slowly clogging. Anfrared heat gun was key for me in tracking down the problem & figuring out exactly what was overheating.
  9. Tavern Monk

    Manifold & Riser Advice - What do you use?

    Got some feedback on the hull truth & if not using OEM it looks like the consensus is Osco or Barr with good gaskets. Lighthouse Marine in NY sells the Barr on MarineEngineParts.com so going to use the Barr. Those guys did a great job on the video & even asked for my engine serial # to make sure they send me the right parts. Can't beat that in my book!
  10. Tavern Monk

    Manifold & Riser Advice - What do you use?

    That was an a great video. What a professional job and assets to the boating community. Lighthouse Marine out NY did a great job. I made the commitment to support them & purchase the manifold riser kit from them. Still leaves me with the Mercruiser vs Barr vs Sierra question, but it doesn't look like I can wrong any way I decide.
  11. Tavern Monk

    Manifold & Riser Advice - What do you use?

    Ahhh, you are a bit braver soul than I! I've read the GLM can be hit or miss. Thanks for the quick response. How many times have you used the GLM
  12. Cover is coming off time to start some yearly maintenance & repairs. Have to do the manifolds & risers this year. Any recommendations on brands? Want to stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff on eBay. Leaning towards Barr, but came across Moore Performance kits. http://www.mooreperformance.info/MercruiserBBmanifoldkits.html Looking for some insight & experience where I lack!
  13. Tavern Monk

    210ssi fuel removal question

    Pulled 28 gallons out of my 240SSi Tuesday evening with the $7 Harbor Freight hand pump. Disconnected the rubber fuel line from the fuel filter. Ran a 3/8" fuel line into the bilge through the drain plug opening & connected it to the fuel line going into the tank with a brass fitting from Home Depot. Then I sat in my driveway & pumped away. Time consuming, but cheap and effective. Also the fresh fuel I put in completely solved my vapor lock problem, but that is a whole nother story.
  14. So I bought my 2000 240SSi last September & hoped I bought a great boat. One owner, service by the dealer, rack kept under cover... Just finally getting into some of the nitty gritty on the boat & finding things yo never want to see. Water in parts of the hull! The port side of the boat appears to be really dry, but found water under the gas tank & inside the starboard side floor. This is how I found it. Any suggestions or info on how these hulls are built is appreciated. 1) Removed the bilge pump from the small ledge in front of the gas tank. When I took out one if the screws water started coming out of the hole. I drilled a 1 1/2" hole and saw standing water. Using a shop vac I sucked out must of the water. It appears that the prior owner installed a drain in the ski locker that drained straight into this area?!? This year & model boat didn't come with a drain in the ski locker did it? The hole definitely looks like the work of a paddle bit. Plan for this area is to remove the fuel tank at the end of season here, cut an access hole (probably 12" x 12" or so) to better assess any damage, dry out, repair and re-fiberglass. 2) Removed the gas tank access cover to replace the fuel pick up & fuel as preventive maintenance since I just had to replace the electric fuel pump. Again water out of screw hole... ughh! (Previously I removed the carpeted piece or plywood between the drivers seat and storage area in the bow. I did notice some water in these 4 holes. I blew these dry & used 5200 when I replaced). To So I bought my 2000 240SSi last September & hoped I bought a great boat. One owner, service by the dealer, rack kept under cover... Just finally getting into some of the nitty gritty on the boat & finding things yo never want to see. Water in parts of the hull! The port side of the boat appears to be really dry, but found water under the gas tank & inside the starboard side floor. This is how I found it. Any suggestions or info on how these hulls are built is appreciated. 1) Removed the bilge pump from the small ledge in front of the gas tank. When I took out one if the screws water started coming out of the hole. I drilled a 1 1/2" hole and saw standing water. Using a shop vac I sucked out must of the water. It appears that the prior owner installed a drain in the ski locker that drained straight into this area?!? This year & model boat didn't come with a drain in the ski locker did it? The hole definitely looks like the work of a paddle bit. Plan for this area is to remove the fuel tank at the end of season here, cut an access hole (probably 12" x 12" or so) to better assess any damage, dry out, repair and re-fiberglass. 2) Removed the gas tank access cover to replace the fuel pick up & fuel as preventive maintenance since I just had to replace the electric fuel pump. Again water out of screw hole... ughh! (Previously I removed the carpeted piece of plywood between the drivers seat and storage area in the bow. I did notice some water in these 4 holes. I blew these dry & used 5200 when I replaced). To invetigate some, I removed the drivers seat, no caulking. There was a 1" plastic plug under the seat base that appears it leads to a foam filled cavity, soaked. I drilled a 2" hole under the seat base & found wet plywood. Under the bottom layer of fiberglass the foam was dry (finally a break). I poked the screw driver through the foam to the 1" hole and found it was all dry in between. Must be decent quality closed cell foam. I still have wet plywood between 2 layers of glass. Not sure exactly how it got in & I'll continue to investigate. I'm sure the hole under the drivers seat, the 4 screws in between the drivers area and storage area that were loose are some of the areas. Any ideas on this area are appreciate since there is no access.
  15. Tavern Monk

    Throttle / Shift Conroller - Mercruiser or SeaStar

    Thanks Sheppard! I had a feeling that was the right way to go, but didn't know how good the Sea Star unit was. Ordered everything through BoatPartGuys.com for a total of $370 to NJ. Cheaper than using the Sea Star & keeping the old cables... go figure. 2 Questions to wrap the topic up: 1) Will I need to get the cables adjusted? Slightly outside my experiance level just yet, so I'll have my mechanic to that one. 2) Will I need any wiring harness adapters or will this plug in? Again thanks for the help man! PS - GreatLakeSkipper.com also had great prices but didn't have the 19' shift cable in stock.
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