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Tavern Monk

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About Tavern Monk

  • Birthday January 21

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    South Jersey

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  1. Ugh,was thinking something like that. They differed from year to year didn't they?
  2. 20 hours is high if it is a drop in Mercruiser replacement. If they are selling you a long block, then the extra time accounts for them swapping your old parts to the new motor. Your cost might be the same either way but with the long block option you are paying for labor and not new parts.
  3. Have a 2000 240ssi with the 7.4mpi and Bravo 3. Shift cable, outdrive service, u joints, bellows... were all done this year. Shifting was extremely quiet & smooth, but it hesitated for 3 or 4 seconds going into reverse. Had the cone clutch, shift fork, and bearings replaced. There is no more hesitation going into reverse. Shifting into forward and reverse is instantaneouse, but it shifts into gear very hard. I almost feel bad putting it into gear sometimes. Didn't realize how bad it actually was until my friend was docking it for my while I was on the floater and I could hear it from 15 fe
  4. My 2000 240 SSi got a pretty decent overhaul this year. Last thing I'm working on is replacing the portable toilet. So a simple question. What is preferred a piston pump or bellows pump. I'm having trouble deciding between the Thetford 260P or 260B.
  5. My engine was overheating at WOT. Then it would start running warm while just running hard. Installed new thermostat, new impeller, and backflushed the system. Still doing it. Installed new manifolds & riser. The old ones didn't look bad enough to be causing the problem. While the engine was accessible, decided to replace all the hoses as a precaution. Problem # 1 was found, the honeycomb engine oiler cooler was partially clogged even after backflushing the system. I took it off & used a straight piece of wire to poke out all the organic debris. Problem # 2 was found by the mechanic, t
  6. I saw this thread was still alive so I thought would check in & share my experience with the Riser and Manifold job. First of all, I bought everything form Lighthouse Marine in NY. Salesman was super knowledgable and looked up all my parts with the engine serial # for me. Parts shipped the same day & actually arrived the next day with regular shipping since I'm not that far away. I went with the Barr to save a few dollars over OEM. After all the reading I did, people tended to prefer the Osco or Barr, then Sierra, & lastly GLM. Over all the job went very smooth. Took the rear seat
  7. My mechanic told me that is the double edged sword with keeping the boat on a lift or trailer after salt water use. Has to be rinsed well or the interior corrosion is actually worse because air gets in the engine after water drains out. The salt water that dries on the outdrive also crystallizes and can eat stuff quicker as well. If you pull it every use which I do, rinse it asap.
  8. All good advice. What engine & drive do you have? I was having some intermittent over heating issues & it turned out to be the manifolds and risers slowly clogging. Anfrared heat gun was key for me in tracking down the problem & figuring out exactly what was overheating.
  9. Got some feedback on the hull truth & if not using OEM it looks like the consensus is Osco or Barr with good gaskets. Lighthouse Marine in NY sells the Barr on MarineEngineParts.com so going to use the Barr. Those guys did a great job on the video & even asked for my engine serial # to make sure they send me the right parts. Can't beat that in my book!
  10. That was an a great video. What a professional job and assets to the boating community. Lighthouse Marine out NY did a great job. I made the commitment to support them & purchase the manifold riser kit from them. Still leaves me with the Mercruiser vs Barr vs Sierra question, but it doesn't look like I can wrong any way I decide.
  11. Ahhh, you are a bit braver soul than I! I've read the GLM can be hit or miss. Thanks for the quick response. How many times have you used the GLM
  12. Cover is coming off time to start some yearly maintenance & repairs. Have to do the manifolds & risers this year. Any recommendations on brands? Want to stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff on eBay. Leaning towards Barr, but came across Moore Performance kits. http://www.mooreperformance.info/MercruiserBBmanifoldkits.html Looking for some insight & experience where I lack!
  13. Pulled 28 gallons out of my 240SSi Tuesday evening with the $7 Harbor Freight hand pump. Disconnected the rubber fuel line from the fuel filter. Ran a 3/8" fuel line into the bilge through the drain plug opening & connected it to the fuel line going into the tank with a brass fitting from Home Depot. Then I sat in my driveway & pumped away. Time consuming, but cheap and effective. Also the fresh fuel I put in completely solved my vapor lock problem, but that is a whole nother story.
  14. So I bought my 2000 240SSi last September & hoped I bought a great boat. One owner, service by the dealer, rack kept under cover... Just finally getting into some of the nitty gritty on the boat & finding things yo never want to see. Water in parts of the hull! The port side of the boat appears to be really dry, but found water under the gas tank & inside the starboard side floor. This is how I found it. Any suggestions or info on how these hulls are built is appreciated. 1) Removed the bilge pump from the small ledge in front of the gas tank. When I took out one if the screws wate
  15. Thanks Sheppard! I had a feeling that was the right way to go, but didn't know how good the Sea Star unit was. Ordered everything through BoatPartGuys.com for a total of $370 to NJ. Cheaper than using the Sea Star & keeping the old cables... go figure. 2 Questions to wrap the topic up: 1) Will I need to get the cables adjusted? Slightly outside my experiance level just yet, so I'll have my mechanic to that one. 2) Will I need any wiring harness adapters or will this plug in? Again thanks for the help man! PS - GreatLakeSkipper.com also had great prices but didn't have the 19' shift cable i
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