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About tetonguy

  • Birthday 05/01/1955

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Coeur d'Alene Idaho
  • Interests
    Boats, rum, guitar, rum, alternative theater, rum, pretty girls......fixing things.

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  1. wow.....thanks everyone for all the great tips. I have been playing more than wrenching on this boat for a while and she needs a good PM going over. I never run the engines hard, being on a big lake my style is more to putt putt around from bay to bay and hang out. The collapsing hose /age thing is something I wouldnt have thought of but from the behavior seems like a likely cause . I will let you all know what I find out. Impellers have always been clean never had one that ever broke apart in any manner. I also noticed that the o-ring seals that came with the last set of OEM impellers were too large and neither of the two gaskets included fit my pump model. I used the old ones and they seem to fit fine but will check them again as well for air seepage.
  2. Hi all, Have a 2004 Signature 270 with twin Volvo V6's. About 480 hours on engines. Starboard engine began to overheat after 5-6 minutes at 3300rpm on plane. Replaced impellers in both engines (it was time anyway) Starboard engine still overheats?? I can get her up on plane barely and hold her there and watch the temp guage rise until the alarm goes off. I shut it down before it goes into limp mode. Can recreate this on the fly, that is, run up on plane watch the temp rise back her off and repeat process to watch temp guage rise. I am a pretty good wrench. This is the first mechanical problem in 5 seasons I have had with this boat so I am open to all suggestions as to where to start looking for the problem. The boat is seasonal kept in a covered slip and wintered indoors. It's overall in superior condition. nothing has ever been neglected on this boat. Thanks in advance, Peter
  3. Hi all, Need to replace both impellers this month on my 2006 Sig270. Have twin Volvo 4.3L engines and have noticed a myriad of cross referenced part numbers for the same part. Anyone know the part number for this ? I have seen a price range from $29 each to $52 each on line. Would prefer a Volvo part ( in the blue and whit box). Any input guys? Let me know. Peter
  4. Exactly. Boats are marketed on how much the buyer can afford to pay monthly. The financing is ridiculous so the list prices are as well. Markups on boats over 25 feet are well over 150% of dealer cost. You want a bigger boat......offer to pay cash and see how quick the dealer will deal. But who has 60-120k lying around.....not many. The real value of a boat is seen in the resale aftermarket. Commissions here in north Idaho run 20% 0f the sale price and boats lose 10%( at least) per season of use for the first 3-4 years. After that the quality of the manufacturer and the current condition of the boat dictate the price. You can also factor in the number and type of boats available in a region. Play boats (surf, wake board) are the worst boating investments in boating history. 150K for a wakesetter??? haha and its worth 80 two year later. And a buyer has his choice of dozens every spring and fall. Buyer beware.
  5. IMHO this is just the tip of the iceberg wrt boating. Its the changing demographics of the economy. Overall salaries are way down wrt how much things cost. In the past making payments would lead to eventual ownership. Now when buying a boat or a RV the extended financing is just a trick to get you a lower payment, essentially you are leasing it until you trade up or out. i bet less than 10% of the borrowers see the loan thru now. Industry has been like this for 15 years now. How else can you justify 150K for a 21ft wakeboard boat? Sea Ray helped build a community of high end buyers which can't sustain itself now. Cobalt is still trying but boats over 30ft just aren't as appealing to the younger folks and the older ones are too smart to want a $900 a month payment on a yacht. Used boats will go up in value for sure as we already see in used RV's. Gen xers and millenials have PHD's and can barely make 50k AND have student loans, the buyer market just doesn't exist like it did in the 90's. Take good care of your boat, if its 30ft or over there will for sure be less of them around in 5 years.
  6. Swapped my Igloo for a Yeti 20. Fits in the cradle but needed a strap to hold it in and I can still open the engine hatch on my 270. If I pre cool my Yeti with cold water for a few hours and use three 24 ounce ice blocks I make in my freezer, my Yeti will stay frozen for 30+ hours depending on how often its opened and will keep things cold enough to drink for 4 days.
  7. Hi all, The fatctory tape stripes on my 04 Signature are looking old. I want to take them off. Any one have soem suggestions as to the easiest way to peel them off. Heat Gun? Chemicals? Thanks for your suggestions.
  8. Accurate manitenance records are more important to me than overall hours. Compression tests are important as well. There are lots of thing to consider over just the engine too. Outdrives and the associated maintenance with them and don't forget trim pumps and hoses too. Are the batteries newer? a good indicator that the PO kept up on things. Hoses are another indicator of timely maintenance. Is only one new? replaced because is burst? or are all the hoses in good shape and about the same age? Good maintenance is preventative maintenance not repair maintenance done part by part. With some careful inspection you can tell how hard a boat has been driven and used. If the PO didn't take pride in his boat then I wouldn't buy it. Out drive skegs are a great barometer as to how well the boat was driven as well.
  9. Yes i would like to know. what was the issue?
  10. Lifelong power boater here. Volvo or Merc are not that different wrt performance. What IS different is the basic block you choose. Volvo uses the Chevy V6 block also used in the S10 pickups. Thousands of these 1990's trucks are still running fine all over. That block is a proven performer. Once you move off into the ANY of the V8 blocks thing change drastically. There have been a dozen different liter sizes made in an effort to improve performance, loose weight and meet cafe standards. None of them were designed strictly with boating in mind. When Evinrude redesigned the Vtech series some years back it was a ground up 4 stroke design. This resulted in the outboard revolution we are all seeing now. Volvo and Mercury continue to cut costs by buying lots of existing GM and ford designs; each one have their advantages and built in flaws as well. IMHO if you are going to ask mega bucks for a new boat a ground up redesign is not too much to ask for, better yet task Toyota or Yamaha to build one. The Yamaha jet boats revolutionized the under 24ft boat realm when they dumped two bomb proof jet ski engines into a 21ft hull which had 40% more usable room in it than the conventional designs. I owned one for six years and ran it hard, only ever cost me gas and oil. Inboards will be gone in 10 years, replaced by multiple outboards which are better in every way.
  11. tetonguy

    2018 Chaps

    I go to a boat show at least once a year. Went to the Spokane boat show last weekend. I love boats and IMHO its always a good indicator of how the economy is doing. This year there were more boats than ever on display in Spokane. Very few vendors for accessories but the dealers had 99% of the show room space. Appears the economy is doing well so far. Also appears that the future is on outboards. Inboard engines are going the way of the wankle, lol. Saw the new 26 foot Chap and loved the LED goosneck lamps in the cabin above the lounge. Tried to fin them online and did but for some reason they are NOT FOR SALE in the United States??? Anyone know why? Not UL approved? They are 20w polished aluminum cans on short stalk goose necks. You turn them on and off by pressing the lens. Very sleek and nice looking design. Saw them in a few ebay UK stores and they will not ship to the US. Protection tarriffs?
  12. A public service message to all boat owners, and those of you thinking about buying a boat. Boat maintenance is expensive because its hard to fix things on ANY boat. It can be made a lot less expensive if you, the boat owner, do one simple thing. Know your boat. Every time you prepare to push off and every time you come back in you need to open the engine compartment and take 2 yes 2 and only 2 minutes to look around. When your rig is running perfect and all is good you need to do this most. My father, a lifelong boater was never towed in over 40 years of boating and I who have over 25 years in, also never towed, both practice this technique. (thanks Dad). Over time you will have mental picture of your engine compartment. your brain will remember and when anything changes you will easily notice it. A hose changing color/position/diameter. A stain where the wasn't one before or getting larger or darker. A wiring harness drooping or changing position. Very few things on a boat fail without warning. A vibration or sound that wasn't there before, you get the picture. Any boat made after 2003 or so have redundant sensors and systems which can be a nightmare to diagnose but will most likely engage to prevent a total engine/drive failure. Its not a perfect system but if you are a responsible sensible boat owner you can just go around bi&&hing about poor quality service guys. That's not going to put anyone back out on the water sooner. If you have a clue as to what the issue is you are much less likely to be disappointed by an underpaid overworked service tech. Everyone looks for the "guy". Well I am that "guy" and so was my Dad. They never work for dealerships because they make bank being independent and their shops are always full. This means that they too are overworked by demanding customers which means they make mistakes too. One more point on buying a boat. Some engine designs and setups are flawed. Avoid buying any "New" drive or engine designs.Volvo 5.0l 's come to mind as problematic. You see a lot more posts here for them than you do for Volvo 4.3l sixes. Not sure if its because of poor manufacturing components or mismatched with some outdrives or if there are just more of them out there to break down Just MHO on this. A bigger engine has its rewards I get that, but bigger also means a hotter engine compartment, more vibration everywhere and higher parts costs. I had a Pontiac "Iron Duke" 4 cylinder engine in my first car -62 Tempest, in my second boat - 91 SeaRay 190 and also in a 1982 Camaro - this motor was bomb proof and many of them are still running today. My point being to do your research, some engines are better than others. If you doubt this just look at the older cars on the road, millions of GM350 's still running not so many old FORD302's. So before you buy a boat, check your ego. More HP does not equal more fun if your fuel costs are 50% higher and your down time is 2 or 3 times as much. The simple beauty of life afloat are what we all share here and are allowed us only by the complexities of the boats themselves. Know your boat, don't engage your ego, you are not above understanding your boat anymore than you would ignore any other complex relationship in your life. If owning a boat is frustrating for you, sell it and take up hiking you'll be happier on land. My apologies if anybody takes offense here, my point is to take your time and learn; its a lotta years from cabin boy to captain, money and ego won't get you there any faster than knowledge or perseverance.
  13. Not to be trivial but I had a similar issue and found out it was the door covering the swim ladder on the swim platform. Again not trying to be funny just a thought.
  14. You welded the crack in the block or the riser? If the block was cracked on visible face, odds are there are internal cracks as well. Compression test on each cylinder?
  15. 18 year old boat with only 51 hours on it? So this has sat for a long time doing nothing. Was it stored dry under cover? In a humid place? Snow? First thing I would do would be to systematically disconnect the boats engine wiring harness and spray clean every electrical connection I could reach. Odds are some plug and or sensor is corroded a bit. You already paid a guy and they found a loose wire? Didn't fix it but its a hint as to the boats condition. Would take a few hours but it will give you a baseline to start from for dogging a sensor or electrical issue. Connections corrode this is a fact. And heat is every electrical components enemy so IMHO its worth a shot. Some time invested and not a lot of $$ layed out initially. From my life's experience the longer a boat engine sits the more problematic they become. Tons of fail safes built into their design and THEY NEED TO BE RUN to stay fit. I start my twins every three days when they are not winterized and have never had a surprise failure on them or any boat engine I have owned. Its not luck its dilligence. Peace.
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