JP127

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About JP127

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    Texas

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  1. https://1drv.ms/i/s!Amjm5WBL51KcbNRuhWbETkv1bSw Just tried OneDrive. Guess it just attaches a link and not the actual pic.
  2. I was trying to upload some pics. Since photobucket wants to charge now, does anyone know of a good substitute?
  3. The first time we went this summer, we did not take the boat. We went again over the weekend and took the boat this time. Incredible beauty. The shorelines looked like a painting and the water was so clear I could see at least 5 feet down. At one point I was looking over the back of my boat and couldn't figure out what the "white things" were on my lower unit, until I realized they were the zincs. I've never been in a clear enough lake to see those. We anchored off of one of the peninsulas and had lunch. The kids got to ski and tube. Only issue was no internet service so I couldn't see where we were on navionics.
  4. Edit: I guess the free version of photobucket doesn't work anymore. I disassembled the two halves of I the throttle handle and sprayed electrical cleaner in here (Where the red arrow is pointing), and now it's trimming up and down just fine. I was thinking of replacing the button on my own, but it may be beyond my mechanical aptitude. Shepherd1, you wrote: Push soft for trim, and hard for trailer. There are 2 clicks when I push to trim up. The first click has never done anything since I've owned the boat (bought it 2 years ago). The second click trims it up. And thank you for the links and info!!
  5. I contacted Cecil Marine. They said they specialized in Volvo parts, not Mercury. Is there another contact someone can send me?
  6. Thank you.
  7. I'm trying to get my hands on a parts catalog for my 2001 Chaparral 180 SSE, and cannot find anything. I even checked the Chaparral web site and it only goes back to the 2002 183 SSI. I need to replace the trim button on the throttle, and the trim solenoids. I'd also like to replace the steering wheel cap since mine is missing (but this isn't as important as the trim button and solenoids). Does anyone have a resource?
  8. I contacted the company that sold it to me and they said it should be fine.
  9. I peeled back some fiberglass and the wood feels firm. And then I'm thinking of glueing a new brace here with 5200. This is where the original brace was. As you can see, it's a little smaller. I'll glue it to the side and under the floor of the boat. I would then like to find something to coat the wood and cracked fiberglass to help keep it water proof. Suggestions? I'll also fill the areas where I peeled back the fiberglass. Suggestions? I really don't want to use actual fiberglass. Hoping there's something easier to apply. It doesn't have to be pretty. Just functional. And whatever I use to fill the areas I'd like it to dry white.
  10. I'm just nervous about going back on the water with the exposed wood.
  11. Not just cracks in the fiberglass, but chips as well. Maybe the largest one is dime size. It's the ski locker, so yes, it gets wet. The wood is moist, but is still strong. The boat cover is off and the locker door is open so the area can dry. I'll get pics today.
  12. Looks like the wood went length wise down the ski locker. I bought pressure treated wood to replace it. Also looks like they were stapled along the wall of the ski locker. My plan is to let the wood, along the ski locker walls, dry out and replace it. This time I'm not going to use staples or screws. Just going to use 5200. Thoughts? I also noticed some cracks and chips in the fiberglass, in the ski locker. I want to patch those areas as well. Will something like this work? http://m.autozone.com/paint-and-body/body-filler/3m-bondo-glass-reinforced-body-filler/167019_0_0 It says it's water proof. And it doesn't have to look pretty.
  13. And is that the stringer in pic #2 of my original post? Or just wood decking?
  14. Ok. But I don't have a hinge on the ski locker door. Just pops out.
  15. So the piece was screwed in from above? I don't see how that would help support the area around the ski locker opening.