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  1. Hi Jamie, I’m not a marine mechanic but my understanding based on what I’ve read online, is that the High Performance is typically used for outdrives (like your Alpha and my Bravo 3s) while the premium is used in outboards. Here’s a link to Mercury’s website explaining this: https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca/parts-and-accessories/mercury-marine-products/precision-lubricants/gear-lube/
  2. I hear you and I know several people who do the same as you. However, I would still would rather take the chance of melting a $30.00 generator impeller because I forgot to open the seacock. To me, that’s better than counting on a bilge pump that could fail due to a drained battery caused by a constantly running a bilge pump while I’m away, resulting in a sunken boat at the dock. We don’t have the luxury of shore power to run a battery charger at our dock. All I have are solar panels to charge them. So you can understand where I come from on that lol. Besides, the impeller replacement is a very minor job that only takes a couple of minutes to do and for the small cost, I always keep a spare on board. I had to replace mine when I acquired it from the previous owner...very simple job. The other thing to note is that if if the impeller is not in optimal condition or the generator is not getting sufficient cooling, the generator will shut down when put under even a light load due to built in overheat protection That’s how I discovered the impeller problem in the first place.
  3. I agree. I should have specified that I only use trailer mode at very low RPMs...essentially, just knocking into gear when I back into a beach or inch it toward the trailer so that I can winch it on. I never drive it on because our marina doesn’t permit that and I don’t want to risk taking the skegs off. I’d never suggest doing that otherwise.
  4. Better off crossing their wake when they are on plane vs when they are going slow and “plowing water”. When larger boats go slow, the wake they leave behind them is much deeper than when on plane.
  5. I know I’m a few years behind on this topic but I have been told that having a seacock open while running can be risky. Should the intake hose connection ever fail while underway, you run the risk of filling your bilge without realizing it and sinking your boat. In fact, maybe I’m overly risk adverse but I won’t even leave the seacocks for the genny or the A/C open if the boat is unattended at the dock just for that reason. I know it is a nuisance but I always close them off before leaving the dock. I imagine that most insurance companies would consider that to be owner negligence and not be obliged to cover you! Something to think about...
  6. Like you, I am concerned about taking off the skegs when I load it onto the trailer. I always use the trailer mode. The only issue with trailer mode is that you have less steering control. But that isn’t a problem unless you are dealing with current and wind. I also trailer both drives (bravo 3’s) up completely when I back into the beach. I always want to be 100% sure that the stern is floating and not bouncing on the drives every time a boat wake comes in to shore or the wind comes up. Never had an issue in over 20 years of boating.
  7. Sage advice Philbo! I do the same.
  8. I made the same mistake of presuming that the tri-axle roller trailer that came with my used boat was set up properly by the previous owner. I quickly discovered upon launch that it was not the case as the crank handle struck the hull and gouged the gelcoat. That’s why I would not assume that a trailer is set up properly. Hence, my need to adjust the post position and the winch position. Now, it’s perfect and I have no issues. Just food for thought...
  9. You need to be careful when driving onto the trailer. Some marinas prohibit that because it leaves large “prop holes” just off the end of the ramp making it impossible to have a longer trailer sit level, screwing it up for other boaters. Just curious...what on the trailer did you adjust? Did you adjust the elevation of the winch/stop block/roller on the post only or did you also adjust the horizontal position of the post itself? I found that I had to adjust both for my Signature 270 before I could get it to sit properly on my tri-axle trailer. The biggest improvement for me was moving the post forward (toward the tow vehicle) about 4-6 inches. It does add a bit of tongue weight but not so much that it affects towing in any way. It’s still a beast to winch onto the trailer but I only need to do that at season’s end. That said, winching a 20 footer should be a piece of cake by comparison. The wind does however, make a difference so don’t give up until you’ve tried it a few times in calm conditions! You could also add those guides to the trailer that keep your boat from floating off the trailer sideways when in deeper water.
  10. KDV


    No idea how things will play out here in central Canada. We too are shut down in Ontario. Everything including parks and all public gathering places. And I suspect that will include marinas too once they eventually open for the season. We are also told do not go to the cottage! The reason being, that should we fall ill or carry the virus to someone else and make them ill, the medical system in those cottage-country small communities will be very quickly overwhelmed! Stay the h e l l at home; now is not the time to be selfish. And for those who believe in Chinese conspiracy theories, here is an article derived from peer-reviewed science journals to put an and to those myths. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/03/200317175442.htm We boaters can instead, embrace the extra time we will have to prep for the season. I will be pulling the boat out of the garage early next month to get her cleaned up and ready for the season ... just in case we have one. I usually don’t put in until after May 24 long weekend (typically 1st weekend in June) so I’m not worried yet that the season will be cancelled. At least the prep work gives me something to look forward to. I’m not complaining though. Being retired and pensioned is a financial blessing for us but my wife is still working since her position is considered “essential” for now. Fortunately they are closed to the public and she can isolate easily at work. Until they devise a vaccine or at minimum, a useful treatment for those who get ill, I don’t see a quick end in sight. So I guess we all just have to hang in there. Better to isolate now and maybe miss a season or part of one, than to choose to be an idiot and miss all of them! Stay safe and healthy everyone.
  11. I have a similar situation with prevailing winds and diagonal boat wakes that want to push me into the adjacent boat in my slip. It’s relatively easy to get out but a challenge to come back into the slip if someone is docked beside me on my starboard side. When returning, we always prep as soon as we enter the no wake zone by putting out fenders for insurance on the starboard side and having a line tied to the midship cleat on the port side so that my wife can hook it around the nearest cleat for leverage once we get close to the dock and help to control the bow. We also mount a floating/telescoping hook on the dock that she can grab for emergencies. With her at the stern and holding the rope, I back into my slip close enough for her to get onto the dock (alignment doesn’t have to be perfect) and she hooks the rope around the cleat. By hooking the cleat, she doesn’t have to handle the full 9,000 lb weight of the boat because the cleat acts like a bit of a pulley. She just tightens up the rope as I ease in against the wind and wakes. With her snugging the rope, I can give it some power to overcome the wind and wakes while not having to worry about driving my swim platform into the adjacent boat on my starboard side! We’ve found that the key for us is to be prepared ahead of time...that way there is no panic if something goes sideways like a gust of wind or some yahoo flying into the marina (or plowing water) and creating a small tsunami as we try to dock.... Hope this helps
  12. Is there any chance that it could be: A split in a water line going between the freshwater supply tank and the faucets in the head or the water supply for the head itself if it is a vacuflush head that uses the freshwater supply? A loose fitting on on the HW or CW line caused by vibration over time? I had a loose T-fitting coming out of my freshwater tank on my Signature 270 that was causing water to build up in the bilge. A previous poor winterization could also induce split(s) in one of the poly-flo supply lines which might drip down to the bottom of a hose and cause water to pool at the lowest point?
  13. Hi all, I’m looking for some collective wisdom or tribal knowledge on how to go about boating the Rideau canal. Ours is a 29’ (LOA) Signature and we would be trailering from the upper Valley to Ottawa in order to travel toward Kingston. As such, I need a recommendation about where to launch and more importantly, where would be a suitable place to leave a tri-axle trailer for a week. Appreciate any suggestions. Cheers Kerry V.
  14. We have a 2005 Signature 270. Since the bow is so high we always back into the beach. Mind you the beaches around here are all beautiful sand. As we back in, we come to a stop then drop the bow anchor, giving it plenty of scope then back in slowly as the rode plays out. As I approach shore I trailer the drives all the way up and coast into shore and kill the engines. Once on shore, I set a Danforth-type stern anchor then use the windlass (or with my previous 26’ Doral pull it by hand) to snug the bow anchor rope tight enough to ensure that I’m floating and not swinging. (Don’t want to be bouncing your hull on a big rock that could be submerged just below the sand after all) Once positioned, I snug both fore and aft anchor ropes. If the wind and crosschop from other boats going by is significant, I’ll attach a second stern anchor and stake both in place using a small axe that I keep in the trunk for splitting firewood. I pin them through the ring that connects the anchor and chain ... especially if camping out overnight which we do most of the time. A 3 ft length of rebar works perfect for that. I also use a ramp that mounts to the second step down from the top of my swim ladder and extends toward shore so that I’m in knee-deep water instead of waist-deep water when I step off the ladder. You can see it just floating under the water in the image. The ramp is a folding aluminium ATV ramp that I modified by securing 1/2” thick cedar boards between the rungs of the ramp. I used non-skid tape on every second board because (cedar will get “greasy” in water over time) and secured them using roofing nails. I also fitted a pool noodle to the bottom half of the ramp so it floats in the waves/wakes/wind instead of dragging on the bottom and causing damage to the swim ladder. We secure it to the swim platform using a ratchet strap when underway. In over 20 years of doing this I’ve never had an issue with sand/clay/mud being picked up. Hope this helps!
  15. On a dry day, take some clear wax (an old candle will often suffice) and rub it along each of the seams. The worst it will do is repel water from the stitching and preserve it a bit and it might even get you through another season?
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