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    Eastern Ontario, Canada

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  1. Any chance that the water could be coming from the outlet side of the bilge pump hose that goes overboard? If there is no loop/goose neck in that line maybe it could be allowing any water that's in that hose to leak backward through the pump and return to the bilge? I also observed with my 270 signature, water rapidly dripping down the bulkhead near the stb trim pump area. Traced it back to rainwater building up in the compartment where the aft bench is stored. Turns out it is carpeted and weeps continually because rainwater leaks into it from the trunk. Then it soaks that carpet that i
  2. Not a walkie talkie but a VHS band, marine-band radio is useful since you can use it to call for help (emergency channel 16) to other boaters who may be in the vicinity or to a hail the local marina or the lockmaster. You can have the type of radio that is permanently mounted in the boat with a suitable antenna or a waterproof hand-held model. If you go with the hand-held unit, you can buy after market, add-on antennas that can add gain (range) to the signal. Some people swear by their cell phones but you can't always get a cell tower on the water and if you need help from another boat th
  3. I once had the misfortune of a cracked block on our old ‘88 Doral Citation (previous boat). Didn’t get all the silt out of the water jacket in the fall and some water got trapped up inside and froze during the winter, cracking the water jacket in several locations. My former neighbour is a marine mechanic. Since it was a Merc with a 5.7L Chevy block, he found another block for me. Turned out his brother was a mechanic and had rescued an engine from a heavy duty Chevy truck that had caught fire. Anyway it was an exact match for what I needed. Our mechanic “gutted” both our block and
  4. Agree that it depends on the local water chemistry. However, my previous boats had no bottom paint and would come out of the fresh water at the end of the season the colour of tobacco which, required an oxalic acid wash and a bit of elbow grease. My current boat came with a bottom paint made for fresh water. It’s Interlux VC17m original and comes with a plastic bag containing copper powder that you stir into the solvent. Speaking of solvent (I think its at least partly an acetone base that evaporates quickly), you will definitely want to use a respirator with a volatile organic compoun
  5. I have a 2005 Signature 270 with twin 4.3 Mercs but have Bravo 3s for outdrives so that idea that 4.3s are paired with alpha drives isn’t always true. Just thought I’d pass that on... I’d agree with Philbo in that the only one that would concern me is the outdrive issue. Those other components are things that would normally fail over time andyway. Full disclosure...I’m not a marine mechanic but I spent a lifetime as a metallurgical engineering tech in the nuclear research field and my specialty was failure analysis of metals. I’d insist on a new lower unit to be honest because
  6. I keep an extra one clipped to the dock so that if I’m having a hard time docking, someone close by could use it to help guide me in. It’s also available for others to use as a courtesy should they need it in a difficult situation.
  7. A snap tool to help with the canvas...especially helpful during a sudden rain when everything is wet and slippery. https://www.amazon.com/Ironwood-Pacific-Top-Snapper-Canvas-Stainless/dp/B00GHU5PXO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Snap+tool&qid=1611586395&sr=8-6 A battery operated camping/tent fan for those “sultry” summer nights where it just won’t cool down in the cabin until about 4 am. Ideally, one for each sleeping area. A whistle attached to the zipper or strap of every life jacket on board. If you're overboard you’ll be able to signal for help with minimal effort
  8. KDV

    Transom Seal

    Good points. Actually did replace both steering pins using those kits about 3 years ago because there was evidence of water getting in there and some corrosion on the pins. Used an endoscope camera to verify the water intrusion. All bellows were replaced at that point and further endoscope imaging showed the bellows areas to be dry as a bone after the job was done. So at least that is a positive... As for water ingress into the transom...I’m planning to check the transom area with a moisture meter in the spring after it has had the opportunity to dry out completely over the winter and se
  9. KDV

    Transom Seal

    That does sound very involved and labour intensive. Thanks for the feedback. I guess I’d better start saving my pennies...
  10. KDV

    Transom Seal

    Yes. Now that you mention it, a number of years ago we stuck a rock about the size of a minivan with the port drive. Both drives were trailered all the way up as we were just “crawling” into the bay at my in-laws place where we used to dock. It was very high water in the spring and the homemade markers we used were temporarily submerged. With the drives all the way up there was no evidence of physical damage like you would expect such as an oil slick, skeg or prop damage or vibration. I’ve even done pressure and vacuum tests on both drives to ensure the seals were still intact and bot
  11. KDV

    Transom Seal

    I’ve had water slowly seeping in on back wall of the port side visible when you look under the motor. My mechanic figures it’s a transom seal. Anybody here have experience with replacing those on a 2005 Chap 270 Signature with twin 4.3’s and Bravo 3’s?. Wondering what’s involved (time & materials) and if there are any “trap doors” I should be concerned about falling into? As always, I appreciate any and suggestions. Wingnut??
  12. A flexible grappling tool (or magnet for non-stainless items) for picking up those items that inevitably fall from your grip and land under the geographic center of the engine(s) Spare prop & prop wrench (in case you need to change a prop) Mask & snorkel (see 2 above) Battery operated LED lights in the cabin so you don’t need to run your batteries down 12 volt “pigtail” to test house battery through the 12v socket (using multimeter) Floating ramp (wooden or modified ATV ramp with a pool noodle strapped to the underside for buoyancy). I hook one on to my s
  13. I think Phillbo may have a valid point. I’ve been told by a mechanic that if I needed to change the raw water impeller (4.3 L Mercruiser) I would have to pull the boat or risk filling the bilge with water and flooding it once the water inlet hose is removed. I would imagine other disconnected hoses could pose a similar risk?
  14. Have you taken it apart to inspect it yet? My 270 had the same issue and I took it apart to discover that the throat of the horn and part of the diaphragm was blocked with some kind of hardened mud by insects trying to make a nest. I cleaned it up and it seems quite a bit better.
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