Chaparral Rider

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About Chaparral Rider

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  1. For me it boils down to sales tax. As I'm in the third highest taxed state, with the second highest cost of living which is reflected in boats unfortunately and then a 7 percent sales tax +- depending on your county, the odd $%^$% in the armor is that there is no sales tax on private sale boats. (odd that we think that is odd actually but more than half of my income goes to taxes so I have to be cognizant) That means private party or brokered boats only. It's not that way for cars but is that way for other vehicles such as four wheelers.
  2. One of my neighbors at my lake house bought a new boat beginning of last season. The problem is that any issue requires removing it from the lake and trailering it back to the city and being without it for a week which is borderline unacceptable when the boat isn't a trailer boat. Anyway, a couple of issues he had were related to speakers not working and the drive fluid being low and constantly beeping at him but the new gen 300hp Mercruiser was shoehorned into his boat and access to see the fluid reservoir was abysmal. This wasn't a Chap and so was about 2 echelons lower down the food chain not that it really matters as these would have been dealer prep issues.
  3. The 220 is now so old that the 'official' performance test results were done with GPS and Radar. The radar test top speed was 58.8 and GPS was 56.4 and the Speedo showed 64 but that was with a B3 versus my B1. That was with the 350 Mag MPI not the base five liter. I'd love to test out props for a day and see what my 220 with the same 350mpi could achieve with the B1. I think the 350 is a lot of engine for a 22 foot boat. I tend to get a lot of inquiries in the summer as to which engine I'm running because it moves out surprisingly well because I have blasted past them and because it seems so many opted for the 5.0 and the outboards haven't caught on yet around me.
  4. You will notice in my posts that I am a contrarian in most areas of life which has worked exactly as I had hoped up to this point. My take is that I never get the base engine even if the base is 'adequate' and even if i only 'use' the extra power once in a while if that can really be quantified. It's why my Waverunner for example is supercharged and not naturally aspirated, all of my vehicles have v8 instead of the base 6, etc, etc. 270 is probably fine, but why do fine when you are already paying pennies on the dollar for a used boat that someone else has done you the favor of taking the depreciation on.
  5. Thank you, yes, you are correct as usual. The yellow goes to my distribution block not the red. My memory is slightly hazy on the loss of the use of the switch reasons.
  6. Marine Spray Nine as mentioned above. It is a antimicrobial if my recollection is correct. I use it above and below deck which I generally don't associate anything below deck with being gentle enough to also appropriately clean seats. I buy it by the gallon on amazon but then I also treat the seats with other products.
  7. I've got a very aggressive 17 inch prop that is actually specifically for big blocks so not a speed demon but I get very low 50's on GPS at 5000 but we always have a very light load of gear since we are on a lake and have no need to carry much. I'd like to get a selection of props for fun and see what it can really do. All that said, we almost never go WOT for more than a few seconds when it comes time to pass the base five liter everyone seems to have in their boats. Ha ha.
  8. Yes, I ran, I think if memory serves me, zero gauge wire for power and ground back from the port console around the bow back to the engine compartment. Then from that power wire in the port console, I used a power distribution block to run power to the sub amp, the class D marine amp and the head unit. I used a ground distribution block as well for grounds. That is how I eliminated all of the noise in the system. The factory head unit power wire which is connected to the 'stereo' toggle switch made all the noise. Now, I've lost the use of the factory toggle switch at the helm, for which I could use a relay If I really wanted keep using the switch, but the Kenwood remotes have on/off functionality which I've gotten used to using. Plus, even though my boat is in my back yard at my dock on my lift, I have this habit of removing the head unit at the end of the day anyway so worse case scenario, the system is powered up all day but not actually outputting any music so am not too worried about killing a battery. I may look into reinstating the helm toggle switch this summer. My relatively simple system I've described took me maybe three weekends of time to install working on and off so didn't have much time to add too much extra on. I left the speaker wires that were there and didn't replace them. If you go with the newest Kenwood head units which came out in 2017, so are state of the art for connectivity versus so many other dated models that had some basic stuff but are still their current models, get a soft case for the face plate as they use a knob that sticks out too far to fit in a plastic carrying case. I picked one up on amazon.
  9. Fishing the wiring from the port console, around the bow and back to the engine compartment was not fun. I used a fish tape for some of it. I removed the cooler holder on the starboard side and that made some of it less difficult. The biggest pain of the whole thing was working inside the port locker as it is so narrow, it forces you to work one handed which really slows down what should be the easiest part. Making everything look very neat and professionally done is challenging when working one handed or severely contorted. The starboard side, while challenging I believe at least on my 220 had a slightly wider locker opening and was easier to work inside of. I ran all of the wiring and cabling ( including the cables for the remotes) inside of wire loom so there are no exposed wires anywhere but that poses a whole other set of challenges because the remote cables for example need to be ran exactly the right length so you have enough slack at the head unit side, the transom remote side and the dash remote and once in the loom with the rest of the wire, it adds to the challenge. The absolute biggest issue I had was a clicking and humming coming from the speakers if using the shift handle trim up or down after all was said and done. I ended up running a separate/new power wire back to the battery and using a power distribution block in the port locker for anything that required power which fixed it. Basically if you try to power the new head unit with the former/oem power wire, you get noise or was the case for me. I collected all of the parts and components off of the internet throughout the winter. Every connection needs to be waterproof, the RCA cables need to be marine grade, the amps need to be marine amps, all of the circuit breakers need to be ignition proof, etc etc so you don't use car audio components. The power and ground wire should be the non corrosive type as well not the copper tinned or whatever the lower grade of wire it.
  10. I did those kenwood remotes that have the lcd screen controls. They are actually feature packed. Your explanation is what I did for the dash which was actually not terribly difficult. I made the plastic the size of the old rectangle remote and held it in the old rectangle hole with the screw holes that are already there behind the dash and then cut a hole in it the size of the remote with a circle cutter. The transom remote was not bad either since the old rectangle remote was held on with two screws and so there was no actual hole cut in the transom. I just bought a hole saw the size of the remote as indicated in the instructions, put tape on the fiberglass, overlapped one screw hole with the hole saw and cut it out. So as not to have to repair the other screw hole that didn't get overlapped by the circle cutter, I installed a snap in the hole so it just looks like it is part of the snap down cover snaps, but the boat lives on my lift so never really sees the use of the snap down cover anyway. I don't use any webhosting for photos and they are too big to be uploaded.
  11. It was sort of tongue in cheek. I think the op is a trailer boater. You forgot about the boatlift, which goes about 15k for this size boat plus additional dock sections off of your main dock which themselves are not inexpensive. The reason so many of my neighbors went to one tritoon is to avoid everything you mentioned. Buying a PWC was a serious suggestion however.
  12. Best money I think I've ever spent was on our supercharged waverunner. Fun doesn't begin to describe it. That said, I love jets but not as a primary boat. If it were me, I would pick up the 226 and either buy a couple of waverunners or buy the vrx as a second boat. Most of my neighbors have at least two boats and a waverunner or two on their shore depending on the day and mood though some have consolidated to one tritoon but kept the PWC's. You can get a couple of decent used waverunners that are current gen for I bet 17 or 18k and that 226 sounds like cheap money. Maybe just go with one waverunner to start along with the 226. Best of both worlds.
  13. I did a full system replacement including all wiring, cable, breakers, head unit, remotes in my 220 last season. As our season is only 90 days at the most and likely much shorter this year as they are still driving full sized trucks on the lakes (and even rivers) when the ice should be out, I went with less expensive stuff with the reality that my 220 is only worth so much upgrade-wise. The old remotes were rectangular and so the newer ones are trending round and so did some customization on the dash and some glass cutting on the transom to accept the round remotes. The amps are in the midship locker on the port side as is the single marine bazooka which is only able to provide a mediocre performance at best but I am adverse to cutting speaker sized holes in the glass so it is what it is. I think it is a situation where it sounds more impressive when you aren't on the boat. It is a large improvement over the oem stuff and the blue tooth streaming connectivity was a big key for me as I opted for no cd player and there is no real radio reception on my lake other than one or two stations. The round remotes look as though they've always been there which was what I was really after aesthetics wise as well.
  14. Ok, I wouldn't admit this elsewhere but I had a 1986 Celica GTS. It was my first 'modern' car....had an electric moon roof, climate control and even had the power lumbar and a 2.0 liter 5 speed that moved out pretty decent for the day. My buddy had a 1980 and my other buddy had a 86 Supra.
  15. Wow, close call. The house that I bought for the storage garage for my chap is on a large plot of land surrounded by some of the biggest trees I've seen here. They are quite a site to look at but I dread the day one succumbs to a tornado or wind storm and crushed the house or outbuildings. We lose lots of decent sized trees every year on this property due to wind which is a bummer actually but none nearly as big as the large trees. I think some of them are now so old that they are at the tail end of their lives.