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    Mill Creek, WA
  • Interests
    Boating, Motorcycles, Travel,

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  1. Once again lots of insight from this community and has made things clearer for me. I am going to stay put for now!! There are other slips that come available that are more suited to my needs and will wait. The current slip works without the potential headache!
  2. That echos my concerns, especially on leaving. I think I can get in ok. Getting out has me a little concerned because I am pressed up against the dock and if I rotate after pulling out of slip the stern will move toward the dock. When I am at gas dock and sandwiched between boats someone from the gas dock pushes my bow out and then wife pushes stern and its a little tight to get by boats in front of me if there is any wind... Maybe I should stay in my current slip
  3. 2 slips have come available that may be slightly better than the one I am in so I am considering them and wanted to see if I was missing anything. I can attach the map with options highlighted. currently in dock 2 slip 42. I don't love the way I have to back in against my forward momentum on approach and wind (prevailing winds seem to be from south or sw) dock 2 slip 49 and dock 2 50 are are available but are end slips and against the walkway... In your experience does this make it harder to depart since I would have a "hard boundry" since the walkway continues and might make it difficult to rotate? Usually I fwd out of my slip until the rear is barely clear and then start my rotation. Does this make sense and what are your thoughts?
  4. when I redid my dash I got a little confused with the wiring as it pertains to the Vapor Lock. It was tied in somehow to a buzzer and the cigarette adapter plug. Any ideas how this was wired or where to find a diagram? Jeff
  5. Well today was a success on the water. Engine ran and idled fine the entire trip. Still have massive anxiety but this is the second run (first being with mechanic after reset) and so far so good. Will probably take it out again tomorrow for a little more of a run. Thank you all. Curt I have some thoughts on the knock sensors will text you Jeff
  6. Thank you for the suggestion Iggy. I will be out on the water today for a test to see if it is still running. I will add the fuel pump swap to the list of potential items to check if problem persists. Jeff
  7. This is all good info and I will be on the water Sunday to see how it runs for awhile. Agreed on the OEM parts only, lesson learned. Thank you all this is a great community. Jeff
  8. OK So the volvo mechanic made it out today. I had put together an email summary of all that has been done along with some of the feedback here and from Curt over the phone. Engine was not idling without help. They hooked up the laptop and noticed some codes. LINK TO DIACOM https://imgur.com/a/4eHQS I asked them to check the ECT and they said looked normal. They also unhooked the throttle cable and played a little with it to see if it was set correct since I told them it idled slower than the good engine. They checked the "lower fuel pressure" all was good They reset the codes showing on the report with indicated TPS low voltage. I had replaced that part previously. The engine ran and stayed idle and we did a sea trial. TPS error code did not come back. They concluded that perhaps the problem was the uncleared error code. The "knock sensor" code is still there but says not active. They said "we should check that part make sure its connected right" but when we got back we all forgot and they left. So I did explain to them that it worked before for 1/2 day but then acted back up so I am leary. But they spend quite some time with the laptop connected going through the paces and he is 15yr volvo tech. I get back in town Sat and gonna take it out again and hope for the best. Curt anything else I should do? I can pull plugs sat and take picture. Jeff
  9. I have a volvo mechanic coming on tuesday. sent them the list of what I have done so far as well as some of the feedback from here. will let you know what it ends up being if they can fix it!
  10. Are the harnesses hard to swap? Maybe I can try that. Will try and find level 3 tech through google.
  11. can't I just buy a new wiring harness and replace it? Money isn't the issue its the time I am losing. If I thought a mechanic could fix it I would have already paid one, but they don't seem to know this particular engine. Jeff
  12. Cyclops2 I agree, has seemed to be IAC all along. When it first happened I replaced IAC and it worked for the entire season. I have been through several now and have not had consistancy in the engine idle. It worked for 1/2 a day and then stopped after one replacement. After another it worked for a few hours. I swapped the IAC from the working engine that has never stalled and problem persists, and the working engine kept working fine after we swapped IAC from non working engine. Wiring may be the problem. I just a master list to communicate with the mechanic so he can test test test :)
  13. Yes we swapped ECM and issue stayed on the port side. I even swapped the IAC again after the new throttle body and issue stayed on the port side. IDLE RPM on Good STBD engine is 630-650 and when you drop to idle it goes right to 620-630 IDLE RPM on Port Engine is 520-550 and when you drop to idle it drops to 300-400 sometimes hiccups back to 500s and stays running sometimes just dies. Just like a failed IAC but I keep replacing. They start great when first replacing. but after a few starts go back to slower idle again.
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