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About PwrTek

  • Birthday 04/01/1968

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    Fresh water boating

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  1. Oh good. Honestly I am very happy - mostly because I feel that EOH works so well for us because of the weight. Sure there are others who tow heavier - for us and the really steep hills and windy roads to our favorite lakes in Northern Calif, 7600 pounds plus food water toys is quite a load to be slinging around. Satisfaction still 110% but I will update this if that ever changes. With the delay it takes for the coupler to compress and apply brakes, surge brakes absolutely can try to jack knife and its pretty scary! If my trailer had electrics on it - I would've left them! My toy hauler had them and they worked just fine.
  2. We traded PMs about it but he didn't get back to me - think life might be interfering with boat time I did a little bit more of a write up here: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=31071&p=334036
  3. Hello, that's great, welcome back to boating! We are trying to plan some Delta trips for next year, but we have to trailer over to the river first so it takes a bit more effort. We have really enjoyed sleeping long weekends on the boat in the lakes.
  4. Yikes! It looks like Wheatgrass! Sell it to the au natural food people? Finance the removal!
  5. Is this the one you use? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBCURW/
  6. Your Sacraficial Layer Our cruiser is the first boat we've owned with bottom paint. The average out here for a boat to be picked off trailer onto jack stands and sanded, bottom painted is about $60 per Ft. Seems like after the first week or so in the water again it doesn't look as great though. In the end you are adding one more layer of protection to the hull and I think it's a good idea We also have the obligatory 1" deadband...
  7. Sig 260 Sagging Headliner Over V Berth Looks like I am going to have to deal with this too. Did anyone ever come up with a better product than Sta-Put SPH ?? Any other hints or tips to such a scary job? I really don't want to look at a bunch of lame wrinkles the rest of our boats life! Thx.
  8. If that is the only thing wrong with the boat make a big deal about it to get the price down, then buy and fix it! Did you ever tell us the year? Hours? If the rest of the boat is solid this wouldn't kill it for me. Looks pretty clean in that bilge. I would grind the glass off that corner and pokey poke the wood. If it isn't really mushy, dry it out, grind some more and glass it. If you're gonna own a glass boat you'll have to contend with this sort of stuff sooner or later. Don't let it drive you off from an otherwise clean used Chap (if the rest is clean)
  9. Right through the bottom just forward of the water pump in your engine compartment is the best place. Little bit scary yes but just seal it well - you will get reliable performance here.
  10. Could try Goof Off? Again better test a hidden area first - this stuff might be too big a gun for the job.
  11. Starting off with a good amount of throttle up to 3500 rpm and trimmed down (example), you will notice your speedomoter start to head up past 25mph (example), and you can back off the throttle a little bit because you are on plane / on top the water. Use 1 second presses of the trim button Up and then wait for several seconds and see the effect on your speed. Keep doing the 1 second presses Up until you quit gaining speed, then back it Down once. With a little practice you will learn what rpm, and where on your trim indicator gauge your boat runs the sweetest speed. This also is helpful to your fuel consumption! Discovering this stuff is part of the joy of boating in my opinion.
  12. Converting From Surge Hydraulic to Electric over Hydraulic Trailer Brakes (EOH) We converted the 4 wheel disc, hydraulic surge, Trail Rite trailer our Sig 260 came on, to EOH for a few reasons. We live in a steep hilly area, and launch on some steep snotty / slimy ramps. With the cruiser weighing 6000 pounds and the trailer another 1600, it can be really sketchy on the steeper ramps with no trailer brakes while backing down (as with surge brakes). Since the trailer will never press against the tow vehicle when facing uphill, this can become problematic in an unexpected situation! Surge brakes are hands down the easiest to deal with, and do apply good braking force without too much trouble, though you want the 5 pin connector and the electric bypass valve (triggered by your reverse lights) to release the brakes if you back up or the brakes may apply when backing up any incline or hill. Only time surge brakes seem to particularly misbehave in my experience is if the little shock absorbers wear out; then the trailer can get touchy and jerk back and forth on the hitch when you brake due to unregulated movement of the surge brake actuator master cylinder. I've had good luck with Electric brakes on an 8000 pound toy hauler - zero delay, and with a good controller (Prodigy for example) which has an accelerometer in it - they work beautifully. But if you already have surge brakes and want to have the nice control scheme and flexibility that electric controls can offer, a retrofit can be expensive. We opted to keep the nice brake effect of the 4 wheel hydraulic disc brakes, but control them with one of the new EOH controllers. You might say that EOH is well suited for heavy loads - solid hydraulic braking force with no lag, and adjustable electric controls. We did the work and it was not that hard - it came out pro looking and works even better. Total out of pocket was about $800 (coupler, EOH actuator, breakaway switch, dual batteries w/ boxes & new trailer plug/pigtail), we already had a controller (prodigy) in the tow vehicle. Here is the summary of parts ordered from etrailer.com: 1 Titan Brakerite Ehb Ele.-hyd. Actuator For Disc Brakes 1 01 Gel Cell Breakaway Kit(2 Batteries +2 Boxes + switch) 1 01 Coupler - Extended 2-5/16 Bolt-on - 21k 1 01 7-way Molded Trailer Wire Connector 6 Long 1 0The job involved disconnecting the brakeline, removing the Surge brake coupler, which was a Titan, bolting on the new Titan straight coupler which had the same hole pattern, though we enlarged 2 holes to fit the 5/8" bolts and insure no movement. We built a stainless angle mounting bracket to bolt to the trailer frame, then bolt the controller to it (all holes tapped 5/16" @ 90o degrees). Then we did the re-bending, re-flaring of the brakeline end to meet the new controller (cut off about a foot of line). Next, mounting the backup battery boxes by drilling and tapping the frame tube 1/4"-20 and running the new 7 way RV pigtail connector. You'll need to mount the break-away switch and wire everything up (note the pigtail has a different color code - follow note on etrailer website!). Finally, fIll the brake fluid up and bleed all brakes, starting with furthest away and working closer. Don't forget to check fluid level after each wheel or you could empty the reservoir and suck air! This results in getting to start all over again boo! Here is our old surge brake system Here is the completed conversionIn summary we couldn't be happier with the revised system! The adjustable control levels make it very user friendly once you understand it. A few Test Stops on flat ground help you see if you have things working properly. If the tow vehicle's tires really scrub and scratch the ground you need to bias the brakes more to the trailer (increase trailer brake gain). If the trailer wheels scratch or lock up, you need to bias more to the tow vehicle (decrease trailer brake gain). Optimally, you will have a slight bias on the trailer which will help prevent a jack-knife when braking very hard in an emergency. It is very important to read your controller owner manual for initial gain settings. On our prodigy controller for instance, it designates 6.1 as the starting point for 6000-8000 pound trailer. Make sure you do this or your test drive might scare you - you'll be so far off the correct bias you could have nothing or far too much! Hope you find this useful. (if you think my experience may help you, don't hesitate to PM me)
  13. Sink manufacturer? Maybe they offer one?
  14. Umm.... Yea. It Really IS a Load of Crap.... That is currently Glued to your sensor floats most likely. I JUST fixed this issue EWW. So you can unlug the wire harness right at the top and carefully back out the cap of the tank and clean it all up - $hitty job for real. Good news is ours works perfect now and is handy for flush outs - you know how high to fill it. The 3/4 indicator is about 5" from the top of the tank and Do Not Flush is like 2" from top!
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