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Bobtylerjr

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  1. Bobtylerjr

    Fireboy replacement?

    Thank you!
  2. Bobtylerjr

    Fireboy replacement?

    Anyone know what size bottle and where to buy a replacement for 2004 Sunesta 236?
  3. Bobtylerjr

    Trim not working

    Thank you Wingnut!
  4. Bobtylerjr

    Trim not working

    I have a 2004 Chaparral with a VP 5.0GXI-E, DP-SM 1.95. I attempted to take it out yesterday and once in the water at the dock, the drive would not trim down. There was a "click" sound when I toggled the trim switch on the throttle up and also when toggled down but no trim pump/motor operating sound. Upon taking a closer look at the pump and relays, I discovered that one relay had a small hole burned through it. I was able to locate one new relay (the second is on order and will arrive in a couple days) and install it. The second relay did not have any obvious signs of failure (melting, holes, etc.). I plan to replace it anyway as a precaution. After reinstalling the new relay and the old (apparently good) relay, I attempted to operate the trim again... same result ( no drive movement, only the "click sound"). Does anyone have ideas on what the problem may be and how to go about troubleshooting/fixing it? Thank you.
  5. Bobtylerjr

    Dipstick Threads, Volvo Penta DP-SM 1.95

    Thank you for the replies. Decided to replace bearing cover.
  6. 2004 Volvo Penta DP-SM 1.95 Dipstick female threads stripped on bearing cover. Many threads discussing this topic so I understand it is a common problem. I am having great difficulty locating a thread repair (helicoil, etc) with the correct size for the dipstick thread, which to the best of my knowledge is 1/2" - 16. Does anyone know where I can find the correct thread repair? It appears from my searches on the internet, local stores, amazon and manufacturer sites that no one makes this size. If someone has information on the correct size thread repair and where to buy it, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  7. 2004 Volvo Penta DP-SM 1.95 Dipstick female threads stripped on bearing cover.  Many threads discussing this topic so I understand it is a common problem.  I am having great difficulty locating a thread repair (helicoil, etc) with the correct size for the dipstick thread, which to the best of my knowledge is 1/2" - 16.  Does anyone know where I can find the correct thread repair?  It appears from my searches on the internet, local stores, amazon and manufacturer sites that no one makes this size.  If someone has information on the correct size thread repair and where to buy it, it would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thank you!

  8. I noticed water dripping from the weep hole on the water pump and made the decision to purchase the rebuild (bearing and seal ) kit on Amazon for about $65 and do it myself. At the time I noticed the weeping, the engine was not overheating.I made the decision to "down" the boat and rebuild the pump before there was a more serious cooling problem. I also thought that it made sense to replace the thermostat at the same time. During the installation of the new bearing, during rebuild of the water pump, I lacked the correct size pipe to tap the new bearing into place. I used a slightly smaller pvc pipe that resulted in some deformation of the metal seal covered in rubber that covers the actual ball bearings. I removed the bent metal seal, added some grease to the bearings for good measure and proceeded with the rebuild. I manually rotated the the pump and did not notice any unusual resistance.I reinstalled the pump and reconnected hoses. I ran the engine on the hose using the flush port on the starboard side of the engine for at least 20 minutes. The temperature was stable at about 140 degrees on the gauge. I attempted to use the boat today in the warm salt water. The water temp at the ramp was about 90 degrees. Outside air temp was about 92 degrees. I warmed the engine at idle while tied to the dock for about ten minutes. The engine temp gauge was reading a stable 150~160 degrees. We left the dock and proceeded to depart the marina area. The engine temp (at gauge) began to gradually rise and stabilized at about 200 degrees when I made the decision to return to the dock. We never left the marina and we never went above the slowest idle speed possible. The entire duration of our short ride, from departing the dock to returning to the dock was about fifteen minutes. I quickly touched the water hoses at the thermostat area and also quickly touched the manifolds. The water hoses felt pretty hot and the manifolds felt warmer than usual. We returned home, allowed the engine to cool completely.This afternoon I attached the ear muff flush to the outdrive, disconnected the water hoses from the water pump, and with the engine off, turned the water on full open at the spigot. No water exited either of the water hoses that were attached to the water pump.I have ordered a new water pump rebuild kit, assuming that the damage I caused during my first rebuild experience may the culprit since the engine was not overheating until I had the great idea to fix a problem that was developing before it was really a problem.Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.Thank you!
  9. Ok Thank you. Makes sense. I was also considering the hoses but there seem to be mannnyyyyy...
  10. I am about to rebuild my water pump and would like to know what else makes good sense to replace or rebuild along the way. I own a 2004 Sunesta 236 and the engine compartment looks more accessible than it really is. I am already planning to replace the serpentine belt while I have the water pump bracket removed. Is there anything else I should consider replacing so I do not have to repeat some of the same work and contortions it takes for me to reach certain parts? I considered the thermostat but it appears to be located more toward the top of the motor (if I have in fact located it). Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
  11. Bobtylerjr

    2004 Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi will not start

    After much delay due to weather and a very busy schedule, the boat is running. New set of spark plugs Thank you very much for everyone's comments and assistance!
  12. Bobtylerjr

    2004 Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi will not start

    Hello Wingnut. I did not see your most recent post warning about starting fluid until after I had completed my checks and posted my reply (above). Based on the fact that the engine did not start and the spark test appeared good, is it worth repeating the test tomorrow using gasoline? It seems that if using starting fluid is more likely to cause at least a momentary start, using gasoline may only produce the same result???
  13. Bobtylerjr

    2004 Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi will not start

    I checked the spark by removing one wire, inserting a screwdriver in the end of the wire, holding it against the exhaust manifold and observing the spark. The spark appeared blue and strong. So to recap... fuel pumps are heard operating when the ignition key is turned to the first detent, all breakers, fuses and (as best as I can tell) relays are in order (not blown, popped, or malfunctioning). Adding starting fluid to the throttle body, as mentioned in my recent posts, had no effect. Any other thoughts? Thank you.
  14. Bobtylerjr

    2004 Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi will not start

    Second attempt to start using starting fluid... I opened the throat of the throttle body using the power lever at the helm, sprayed two good shots of fluid into the open throat, returned the power lever to the neutral position (closing throat) and attempted to start. The result was no start/run or "pop". I will now check the spark and report back.
  15. Bobtylerjr

    2004 Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi will not start

    Just attempted to start using staring fluid. The engine turns strong and there was one significant "pop" but no start/run at all. I am going to make another attempt in a few moments just to confirm. I wanted to clarify that I am adding the starting fluid correctly to the throttle body... The throat with the hinged valve is closed when I add two brief shots of starting fluid. I attempted to gently rotate it, using very little force by pushing on one side, the valve open and it would not move so I stopped. I was not sure if the starting fluid needs to be in the open throat or if simply adding a couple shots (sprays) of the fluid to the closed throat would suffice. After the start attempt that resulted in one "pop", the throat was closed and wet but not soaked. Sorry for all the detail but I am trying to be as descriptive as possible since I cannot show you video and to avoid confusion. I will let you know how my next attempt goes shortly. Thank you.
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