Ronbill

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Everything posted by Ronbill

  1. I did a similar install to my 2009 196 SSi last summer. I used the automatic charging relay (SI-ACR #7610) from Blue Sea Systems swapped out the stock Blue Sea battery switch with their Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011 (this was an exact replacement/switch so no modification was necessary). I did the load-side install and added appropriate spark proof 100 Amp circuit breakers between the ACR and Dual switch. The install was not really difficult at all but take time and make your own appropriately sized cables with heavy heat shrink to tidy things up a bit. For pics and more details see: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?/topic/33885-blue-sea-systems-acr-wiring/#comment-365163
  2. Ya you are spoiled in that part of Alberta - a good concentration of deep lakes and clearer water compared to the rest of the Province. However, everything is relative and our lakes do not compare to the deep clear lakes of B.C. I too will be traveling to the Okanagan for at least a week this summer - Kalamalka Lake is my destination this time.
  3. OK, I'm located in landlocked Alberta but I spent the week boating in Kalamalka Lake out of Kekuli Bay Provincial Park, BC. I did see a number of Chaparral boats on the water. Now I'm wondering why the Western Canada forum never has any new posts. Hope some of you other members from the Western provinces post in this forum.
  4. My 2009 196 SSi Wide-Tech (similar to your 19 H20), which has the 225 HP Volvo 4.3L GXi engine came with a stainless 3 blade 19" pitch Volvo prop. It is great for speed giving me a shade over 50 (52?) mph at 4600 rpm, but I can't get to max 4800 rpm's specified for my engine. To get better towing, hole-shot, and to reach max 4800 rpm I went with a Turning Point aluminum 4 blade 17"p prop. This configuration still gives me a respectable 48 mph wide open throttle. Generally, when going from 3 to 4 blade, you step down a couple of inches in pitch to compensate for the extra mass of the 4th blade. If your boat is like mine, your existing 20p may be the speed prop and you may consider a 17p 4 blade for pulling. let me know how that works out.
  5. I'm interested in purchasing an exact-fit trailerable boat cover for my 2009 196 SSi Widetech that would allow for the bimini top to be laid down under travel cover during transport. I have looked at the products from Westland (made with Sharkskin, Sunbrella), Carver (made with Sun-dura, Poly guard) and Shoretex (Weathermax, Prism, Travel Tuff) but haven't seen any pics showing how the cover installs around the integrated swim deck. Quite frankly I'm leaning to Weathermax fabric but would like to know how well the covers fit and do/can they include perimeter tie-downs that ratchet in the back, ventilation poles etc. Can anybody here with an '09-'13 196 ssi Widetech give a recommendation on a well-fit product I should consider?
  6. I'm looking to replace the black plastic swim deck pad on my 2009 196 SSi. My initial search of the web for existing replacement alternatives was largely unsuccessful as it seems no one offers pre-cut pads specific for this model/year. However, I recently discovered through some additional online research/sluthing/emails that both Seadek and TT marine (Aqua Trac) do indeed have templates for the 196 SSi Wide Tech. While I have yet to hear back from Gatorstep whether they have the template or not, I would like to know if anybody here has ordered pre-cut swim deck pad from any of these companies for the 196 SSi WT? I understand Seadek and Gatorstep use the same eva foam material, but I would like to know how this compares to the Aqua Trac offered by TT marine? I would appreciate any comments. Ron
  7. Yes I have the cockpit and bow snap in covers, but rain/road spray are not prevented from getting into the bow between the snaps during travel. I would like a cover that wraps down over the sides of the boat to prevent this.
  8. I switched out the stock Volvo 3 blade 19" pitch on my '09 196 SSi with Volvo 4.3L GXi to a Turning Point aluminum 4 blade. I'm glad I did as I ended up dinging the prop on a rock after the switch.It is much cheaper to replace an aluminum $100 prop than the $300-400 stainless. The switch also got me to the higher end of my RPM range and only sacrificed a couple MPH. It tows a tube better than the 3 blade which is more of a cruising prop.
  9. I suspect adding ballast will really bog down the 4.3L engine. Perhaps others know more about this than I do.
  10. Bud, is that the 4.3L GxI engine? What prop do you run?
  11. Bud29, where do you mostly boat?
  12. Greetings Malcolm, I wish I could boat all season. However, if I was on the island my current boat would have to be upgraded to something for salmon and halibut fishing with room to spend a few nights. Lots of larger boats like yours on Lake Okanagan. That's a large and often rough body of water. Beautiful area the interior is. We are heading back to Vernon/Kelowna this summer for a week of boating - probably stick to Kalamalka Lake again with our size of boat.
  13. Sorry for the late reply but I haven't been thinking about the boating much lately. Are you happy with the hole-shot using the 4-blade S/S prop? I have the 4.3L GXi Volvo that came with the 3-blade 19 pitch Volvo prop. Good speed prop but crappy for towing. What tower are you planning on installing? Let me know how the tower install goes.
  14. I used the automatic charging relay (SI-ACR #7610) from Blue Sea Systems as part of adding a second battery to my 2009 196 SSi. I also swapped out the stock Blue Sea battery switch with their Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011. I did the load-side install and added appropriate spark proof 100 Amp circuit breakers between the ACR and Dual switch. The install was not really difficult at all but take time and make your own appropriately sized cables with heavy heat shrink to tidy things up a bit. For pics see: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?/topic/33885-blue-sea-systems-acr-wiring/#comment-365163
  15. Dave, what prop are you using on your boat? Do you have the 4.3L Gxi or carb engine?
  16. I agree that chirp is mainly for fishing. If I wasn't interested in fishing I would stick with traditional sonar (or CHIRP without DownVu) in a through-hull transducer.
  17. I went with a transom mount transducer model # GT22HW-TM [Plastic, Transom or Trolling Motor Mount Transducer, High Wide CHIRP (150-240 kHz, 250 W)/CHIRP DownV├╝ (455/800 kHz, 500 W) (8-pin)] as it was the cheapest way to get into CHIRP/ CHIRP DownV├╝. I have yet to install it and with the boat winterized I won't do the install until spring.
  18. Thanks for the reply - they do have much nicer lakes in BC. That breakfast looks great on the boat.
  19. Unfortunately Garmin changed the dimensions with the echoMap line from previous lines.
  20. I pulled the carpet out before cutting, then vacuumed afterwards. Dust will fly and collect on the wires behind the dash so get under there with vacuum attachment. I bought the LakeVu HD Ultra card and the Garmin worked great a week ago when boating on Kalmalka lake in the BC interior. Now for the transducer install - just need to decide where to attach it and if I should use a stern saver plate. Then I'm seriously done modifications on this boat.
  21. Used a reciprocating saw being extremely careful to ensure no wires were in the way or behind the block.
  22. yikes, I did not know that existed., but I just looked it up. I'm just wondering why you would need that?
  23. Wide velcro strips are easy to install (double basked adhesive), inexpensive, long lasting and allow the easy removal of the plastic storage bin.
  24. That is exactly it. The Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011 splits the batteries so that the starter battery is connected to position 1 (input) terminal (on the switch) and the engine positive power lead to position 1 (output) terminal, while the house battery is connected to position 2 (input) terminal (on the switch) and the house positive power lead to position 2 (output) terminal. As in stock configuration with the basic On/Off switch, there are several positive leads that are separate from the main house and are wired directly to the house battery (input) terminal so that they are always on regardless of whether the main switch is in the 'On' or 'Off' position (e.g. the Automatic bilge, stereo memory and corrosion protection system). With this setup, I can run my Garmin chartplotter/fishfinder, stereo, courtesy lights etc. when the boat engine is powered off without worrying about killing the starting battery. And when I start the boat, the separate starting battery only starts the engine - note you do not have to switch anything on the switch when starting as the two batteries are isolated and operable all the time (i.e. only 'On' and 'Off' settings no 'A', 'B' and 'A+B'). However, the Dual Circuit Plus switch also has the 'Combine' option to tie both batteries together should the starting battery fail for some reason.
  25. Yes I replaced the stock Blue Sea battery switch with their Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011. This allowed for simple swap out as they are the same size. I have to say that even with making all my own battery cables cut to length, this was really an easy install. Here is the backside of the switch: