Bt Doctur

It`s the reason I remove the ships Red power lead and go directly to the starters main post. See no reason to fuse 90A and have a inline 50A main power breaker too. I leave the 90A in the alt charging circuit only

IF the batteries are good, AND IF all the connections are good then a soft click is a bad slave solenoid, a hard crunch is a frozen stater or motor.. You say 2 items on the same battery exhibit the same condition then suspect a bad battery or a corroded connection

guessing its like the merc 6.2 small block gm motor computer equipped.flat cap dist. motor at TDC #1 compression, drop dist in with rotor facing the notch, computer does the rest

There is a place that will burn one for a donation

Well if you got to it in time and drained the block you should be ok,

Just starting out with doing small items. bolsters, helm seating, etc If you would like to give me a try, pm me Located in central NJ

Couple of ways, remove the anti-syphon, install normal barb fitting and use an electric pump remove the tank sender, use an electric pump with a LONG hose to keep the pump outside the boat so you can safely power it

Somebody`s always trying to reinvent the idea of winterizing. Those of us in colder climates can leave everything dry and risk scale build up or fill it with something to keep everyhing wet to stop the scaling Cold climate winterizing is keeping the cast iron wet so it dosent contribute to the scale in the engine especially at the drain ports. By not removing the drain plugs and after a few years of this the lowest part of the block is filled with rust scale and the block CANNOT be drained .It`s so much easier to flush, fog, and drain everything and then just pour your favorite substance into the hoses. On average a gm small block take 2 to 2 1/2 gallons and manifolds take about 3/4 of a gallon each. Using a muff flush system leaves no guarantee of freeze protection in the block or manifolds UNLESS you drained everything first, then used the muffs to introduce the liquid. Guess incorrectly and you lost the block because something must always exit the exaust no matter what the thermostat is doing , So 5 gallons out the exaust and none or very little in the block will cost you a new block or motor. Don`t say"No" because it has happened countless of times to owners using the muff method.

You see , the issue with battery selection when on the hook is to insure you have a charged engine starting battery to get home with.Not knowing EXACTLY how your boat is wired makes it impossible to give you the correct answer. You need to do some testing by removing a positive battery cable and using the battery switch see what works on each selection. Then doing the same thing with the other positive cable disconnected. If this is a single engine then you should consider a dedicated battery system for just the engine starting. and dedicated house batteries for just the house .There are a multitude of automatic switching systems to charge all batteries while underway and yet isolate the charging systems and load with the engine off.

a 27 footer should atleast have dedicated house batteries being a single engine

It upset me more when he broke it because I had to shuffle all my other work around or let him wait 6 months

I remove Alpha`s by hand in about 2 minutes, awkward but manageable.Bravo`s are a 4 hands operation due to the weight. By not removing the drive you are guessing you dont have water entry or oil loss that will lead to drive destruction. Personally I make more money replacing your destroyed drive than repairing it AFTER I told you what would happen . Not my fault your too stubborn to read your manuals or listen to your mechanics Did a spring start up for a customer and advised him the oil filter was badly rusted and needed changing before it was put in service. Didnt listen and split the filter and lost the oil. Asked how much to repair it, for not listening I said $900 plus labor and materials

What you see coming out the transom is needed to cool the rubber components of the exaust system, has no bearing if the T-stat is open or closed. An added benefit to removing the drain plugs is to remove and scaling and rusting and sediment that is in the engine.You can remove the drain plugs and be positive you drained everything that can freeze and then just pour the AF in thru the hoses. Don`t forget the drive, it needs service too and thats why drives are removed YEARLY for inspection.

Unless you drain the water first after flushing , there is no guarantee of adequate freeze protection by simply running A/F thru the muffs. You will find out in the spring if everything worked to your expexctations

See if you can retro it to straight mechanical shift and throttle