Bt Doctur

because on a Alpha drive , Bravo cobra drive, volvo drive the U joints are spinning with the motor running

No , I use 3M Weatherstrip adhesive on the rubber gasket , once the gasket is installed a very SMALL bit of black RTV between the gasket edge and housing edge

props, coupler ,throttle cable .operator error

Yes, crank them ALL the way up till the hyd pump groans, I make more money that.way. A new gimbal housing and a new drive after the U joints explode Now if you want to keep some of that money , lower the drive to flush and raise it to trailer.

I dont think Mercruiser would put out a video showing that. Dont believe everything you find on the net Down is best

switch not wired correctly or anchor light not wired correctly. Lite should be a 3 wire . forward bulb and aft bulb

what engine, what drive?

Unless your disconnecting the quick connect hoses at the block and probing the fitting your at risk for a cracked block because it did not drain at all

the plastic housing is high freq welded and is not servicable . The one without the valve looks like this

Does the res contain A/F or is it empty?

too soon for a rusted water heater, The overflow reservoir though tells the story along with the coolant in the bilge. Is it full, or empty?

you would not feel anything from prop to ground because the props are grounded. Being on a lift you may feel stray current from the lifts wiring

not much there to go on so carb is flooding

The pic I posted depicts a new copper item to replace the plastic water distribution valve/drain. I usually remove the 4 hose connection and insert a piece of copper in its place. I them remove the manifold drains and hose and replace them with the threaded elbow with the blue plug. The I remove the quick connect fitting in the block and replace them with the brass insert and blue plugs Having a lathe allow be to place a "indent" in the copper to hold the clamp on although I`ve never had a hose just come off a smooth piece either