Allen

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About Allen

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clarks Marina

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  1. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2163766460429248/ I have a site for recreational boating and history on the Delaware River for anyone interested.
  2. Ingalp01, A half quart seems to be a lot for an Alpha one gen 2. (just a thought, maybe it was not done correctly) It is important when changing outdrive oil that it is pumped in from the bottom with the vent open in the top. I pump it in until it comes out the vent and fill the reservoir afterwards. I always notice the reservoir drops between 1 and 2 inches after running for a few minutes and top off. At that point it should find its level.
  3. Ingalp01, Drive oil should never drop with the exception if you just changed the drive oil and the oil has not found it's level from the drive to the reservoir. Another possibility is reservoir leakage (if your lucky) otherwise, it may be down under the waterline not a good thing. The first thing I alway do when I get the boat in the driveway is to pull the drive drain plug to check for white milky oil. I am running a Alpha one Gen 2 outdrive that is 22 years old and preparing for the worse. I consider myself very lucky. I been looking to see what the solution will be when it finally goes. The boat has been well maintained, but for it's age it maybe more economical to use a cheap "knock-off drive" or one that have been rebuilt by professional. Good luck
  4. Ingalp01, It say's it right on the label. 4400-4800 WOT ..
  5. Ingalp01, A little to high for my liking.. I have a 1995 2335 5.7. I get goose bumps at 4500 rpm. I am getting 45 mph with GPS and aluminum prop. 14.5 x 17. I don't keep it there for more than 30 seconds. I can cruise at 30 mph at about 3000 rpm. It is a good number because the secondaries do not kick in and you can save some gas. Don't quote me but I would say 6 gallons a hour. I believe the boat weighs in at 4650 lbs empty.
  6. My 1995 2335 5.7 has 4200-4600 it is identified right above the flame arrestor (see picture) My manual say's 4400-4600 rpm. The original engine was changed to a 260 hp but I would say they must be about the same.
  7. From the album Allen Rowles

    One of the first to tie up to the new Public day docks in Bristol PA 1 mile north of the Burlington Bristol Bridge. Officially opens next week.
  8. Just a thought, on the secondaries. Just a quick check. I had someone punch the throttle in neutral fast and hard while I video recorded it. It was to dangerous to squeeze my face over the throttle plates (no head room). You should be able to see the secondaries kick in and open. I did not exactly record the opening rpm but I was alway under the impression they open at 3200 rpm's ( I sure it is in the manual somewhere) They definitely opened up. This was on a 350 magnum 1995 with a Weber 4 barrel.
  9. What is it a "check valve" ?
  10. I have a 1995 Chaparral Extended plane-anniversary edition 2335 350 Mercruiser. I was browsing engine spec's in Sea Loc and could not help but note there is a 5.7L 4 Barrel carb Alpha one (235 hp) and a 5.7 Magnum (250 hp) 4 barrel carb alpha one. Does anyone know how to identify the difference?
  11. To all, I want to personally thank Wing Nut for all the information he sent me yesterday. I knew the guy was a "stand out" and had a lot of knowledge with Mercruiser's The Chaparral blog is really a great place to get information and meet new friends. Yesterday I did both.. Best of wishes to the membership, Allen arowles@comcast.net
  12. Funny topic, I was out today and put a few hours on the boat and I noticed the trim switch up does not work up but the trailer switch up works, and the down works fine. Just when I thought I would get a break from the next repair. "BOOM" the next thing need repairs. I don't hear the solenoid clicking up. I do have an extra Quicksilver Controller 3000 trim switch in the garage from the last repair maybe 2 years ago when the controller handle broke. Been there done that before. I really use the trim switch a lot because of low tide in the harbor demands triming up at low tide coming into the dock. If I remember correct you have to test for control voltage on the up solenoid. I don't remember if the "trailer switch" goes thru the trim switch or not (I don't think it does because the motor will grunt up if you are using the trailer switch. At any rate, as all you may know.... most boat need continued repairs and maintenance.
  13. Poverty 88, You may want to look at the neutral kill switch adjustment and/or function. Personally speaking I have a 5.7 Mercruiser 1995 and once in a great while I have "center" the controller. i.e. reverse to forward and find the sweet spot (neutral) You would be surprised. I have assisted a few out on the docks that had the same problem. Technically speaking, the neutral switch on the carburetor kills the engine as you go from forward to reverse- Reverse to forward for a split second. A bad adjustment could have some impact. Just a little adder; Wingnut most likely has it. Its been some long since the neutral kill switch acted up I can not remember if it takes out the ignition including starter cranking or just the ignition. Let us know what you find...
  14. On my Alpha one Gen 2, It obviously will stop in the up position until it gets the trailer point. Going down you watch the gauge and listen for the pump to grunt. I grunt it down before I accelerate and get ready to come out of the water. Being up just a little can really have a impact on coming up on plane.
  15. In my opinion, dim lights on a 12 volt system could be a high resistance connection somewhere. My instrument panel uses a common ground (black). If they are all dim I would look into the common issues. Get the wiring diagram and check on terminal points, splices or connectors. The degradation-corrosion of connections is elevated especially if the boat spends a lot of time in an salt environment. Just some simple thoughts.