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    Dredge Harbor Delran NJ

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  1. Thanks Boatman 609, Yes the Rancocas one of my favorite hide outs especially on the Weekends and Windy days.
  2. I figured it out. The choke was slightly closed and had the Secondaries locked out by the linkage. Now all have to do is find a place to order the thermostat choke coil on the intake manifold.
  3. Did anyone ever experience a change in WOT after replacing a carburetor with a rebuild? I got my idle issues now fixed, but now the boat will not go over 3500 rpms. Before changing out I had a bad idle but incredible power out of the hole and WOT at 4400-4600 rpm. It was a Weber 4 barrel change out, I now have a perfect idle but lacking the high end. The boat was totally tuned up a month ago, and vacuum is 20 psi. I thinking the new rebuild has "Different jets" in it. I going to check operation for the secondaries as soon as I can get some assistance. What say you?
  4. I am starting to wonder if the throttle plates-shafts are worn. I know the choke is closed on start and opens wide when warm. I going to see if I can clean the Venturi's with spray. Will check the mixture screws for damage. If that does not do it I going to replace the Weber 4 barrel. Perfection at idle 650-750 (in gear) is imperative when using a neutral kill switch and docking. It does not take much to stall at that speed. I'll figure it out... stay tuned.
  5. 1995 Chaparral 5.7L 4Barrel Alpha One Gen 2 40 hours ago last season I rebuilt a Weber 4barrel on my 5.7 L Mercruiser. The results were outstanding. This season right after the shake down cruise I noticed a rough idle and stalling when centering the throttle slipping into neutral. I believe I adjusted the mixture screws and set the idle last season at 650-700 in gear. This first couple hours of use have the idle running all over with a swing of about 200rpms. Two things should be noted; Great WOT at 4200-4400 rpms, running strong at 42 miles a hour and great lift out of the water from a dead stop. I did not notice much changes on the idle when adjusting the mixture screws 1 1/4- 1 1/2 starting point . Just can not seem to keep the idle steady without fluctuation. So far changed the Cap, rotor, plugs, wires and the water separator. The vacuum is 19-20 and steady. I do not suspect the neutral switch. I dumped 4 bottles of dry gas. This boat has never had problems with water because I use it 3 times a week and burn a lot of fuel. The question is it common for the Venturi's to clog up early in the season and what are the chances of cleaning them with gum-out spray? I hate to have break the carb down again. I was hoping Wing Nut may weigh in on this.
  6. Check out my Facebook site called Navigating the Delaware Past and Present. Lots of information on the Rancocas, Delaware from Trenton to the Delaware bay. Additional information on lots of the yacht clubs. Lots of pictures of areas and boats.
  7. My first test picture from a link. Note Short yoke Mercruiser Alpha 1 Gen 2. Changed input seal (note groove in machined area). Also changed the two velocity joints as well
  8. Thanks Phillbo, I took it out yesterday and finally brought it up to WOT (well almost) It would not get there, got to 4000 rpms and I am wondering if the adjustment-linkage change from Rich to Lean on the accelerator pump change I made may have caused this. The accelerator linkage has three holes; Rich, Lean and Leaner. Not sure if going back to the Rich setting and if it will get the 400 rpm more as it did before and is designed to do. I been using the same prop 14.5 X 17 for years and alway was able to obtain 4400 rpms. May reset the linkage next trip out. Sorry to bore you guys....
  9. Carb kits were alway pretty affordable. Less then 30 bucks for many years. The Mercruiser dealers all wanted $93-113.00 for the kits vs $27.00 on eBay. I figured it was worth a chance to save about $ 70.00 dollars. Philbo, nobody forced me. They advertised a product with the correct size Mercruiser number but can not machine the threads on the "brass seats" correctly. Not big deal. Went out today and the 5.7 purrs at idle. With a little luck, I done with repairs for the summer.
  10. Just finished off rebuilding a Weber 4 Barrel on my 95 Chaparral 5.7 Mercruiser. Word to the wise; Do not fall for the $27.00 "knock off" China rebuild kits on eBay. Ended up spending the $93.00 (Quicksilver) from Dredge Harbor to complete the job. The needle seats were not treaded completely so they would tighten down on the small round gasket into the carb housing. After that I was reluctant to use the "floats" and used the old one. China, Consistent with it looks like it, it has the same color, etc... But does not function as OEM parts. Lastly, Very labor intensive, not worth the time. Maybe next time I will just fork up the $600.00 for a rebuild carb, as long as it does not come from China.
  11. Wingnut, got it correct about the shutters breaking off and get jammed up in the exhaust port in the outdrive. Another issue I had a couple years ago was at 3000 rpms the boat starts to come out of the water up on plane and if there are any air leaks-gaps in the water pickup it will suck air. I put a clear hose on the water system to visualize what was happening at 3000 rpms. It was leaks in the outdrive above the water line at "plane"
  12. Update, with a couple hours of use after the tearing the upper outdrive apart it seems to have done the trick. No drop in outdrive fluid and the bilge is clean. At this point, just giving it some time before I take it up to WOT. Quite happy for now. Next project possible Weber 4 barrel rebuild unless the carburetor cleaner works. Some slight roughness below 1000 rpms. That seems to be getting better with the cleaner doing its thing.
  13. I had Mercruiser 31 manual. Not sure what number this is but I saved it for sure. Thank you I launched the boat yesterday for the shake down cruise. I drove about 1 hour and lost no fluid, no noise but going to wait until I test it at WOT until the bearing wear in a bit. The rotating adjustment was 2.5-7 inch lbs for used bearings and 7 to 15 inch pounds for new bearings. You measure with a dial torque wrench "rotating" and bring the nut up 1/8 turn a time and remeasure rotating torque. Bottom line, is the seal has been replaced, installed a new short yoke and two velocity joints. Hopefully I bought a few more years out of this outdrive. My guess the lower seals MAY go next but that is another day and another project.
  14. Denny, Yes she worth it to me. The 24 year old boat still look very good, I dropped a new engine in it 9 years ago and she has 561 hours on the new motor. I decided to tear the upper outdrive apart replace the seals, short yoke, and replace the velocity joints while I have the horizontal shaft on the bench. Besides, we are living in a rain forest here in NJ :-) , and it seemed like a good time to dive into this project. Learning by the moment.
  15. Several years ago, I did find a leak in the hose at the bottle reservoir. A 95 Chapparel 2335 is nearly impossible to get a eye on the transom outdrive housing. I bought a remote camera-cable without much luck. I think I going to jam some pad under possible area and give it a shot for the season. Definitely gear oil with that "Blue-green look" I hate to pollute, although I know many more are doing much more. I just wet sanded the boat and this nearly 25 year old boat looks like it did when it was new. I guess I going to have to educate myself, and break the top of the outdrive apart. There is some type of ring and you need some type of "spanner" wrench to get it apart. God knows what that will be like after 25 years. I been told by several people and a mechanic, that Alpha one Gen 2 outdrives are really reliable outdrives compared to the Bravo 1, 2 and 3's
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