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caperss

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    Pass Christian, MS

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  1. My question to the forum. Is it very difficult to remove a bravo 3 out drive on a 2003 270 sig with twins? I have a restricted thru transom pipe that I believe is the problem. I dont know if its easier to cut a hole in the hull and install a new raw water pickup with a cutoff valve and run rubber hose to the raw water impeller or pull the outdrive. Please remember I've never done this type of thing before. It's on s trailer in the yard and my budget is getting smaller. Any advise will help. Thanks all!
  2. My 2003 Sig. Twin 4.3, I have an outside starboard engine head that I believe is cracked or rusted through and I'm ingesting water on that side of the engine. My question to The Forum, I've done this type of work my whole life ( cyl. Head r&r) but I've never tried to remove a cylinder head in such a cramped area and trying not to remove the intake manifold. I just don't want to have to remove the distributor nor do I know if there's enough room to pull it straight up out of the engine back there. Have any of you out there replaced one cylinder by just pulling the intake up a little bit to
  3. NOPE! Its now July 26th and boat is still sick. Had above Mechanic install cool fuel pump, took 4 hours in 100 deg weather. He was beat and almost passing out but it did not solve the problem. I haven't seen or heard back from him. Maybe one of the ghosts from the boat got him. So I bit the bullet and went down to the boat and removed all the injectors and had them tested and cleaned and put them back in yesterday. I also found the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator off the nipple down at the cool fuel box. It now runs just a bit better as there was a huge vacuum leak from that and now
  4. Big Thank you to Bt Doctur who was kind enough to PM me with step by step instructions on just how to R+R my "cool fuel" box and fuel pump. THANK YOU SIR!
  5. Thanks Roady68! Yep that's what I ended up getting an Airtex E11004 fuel pump from Rock Auto for 107 Deer + SH another 7 Deer. Now my Mechanic friend has gone missing. I cant reach him and he isn't returning my calls. He probably doesn't want to do the work. I cant blame him its 95 deg. here when it isn't pouring rain and its doesn't look easy to get at. I may have to do the work myself if its going to get done for July 4th weekend. I really don't want to do the work I'm not very thin and I'm not in the best of health but it wont be the first or last time I have to do something I don't want to
  6. Ok I had a local and the same Mechanic who installed this engine last fall over to check it out. After 20 minutes with me at the helm and keeping the engine running (very rough running but running) he determined that the fuel pump is bad. He said "I don't know if you could see the fuel pressure gauge as we were running it but as the revs were going up the gauge was dropping too low and just dancing all over the place". The engine does pop up (backfire) through the intake and as he described it " you have a lean run condition" I know it is a PITA to install one of these fuel pumps as it sits lo
  7. My haunted boat is Still not running and haunted. I Did a compression test on my 4.3 MPI engine and I have 145-150psi in every cylinder so that's good. Fuel pressure was 40psi ("head pressure", ignition on but not running and it leaked down to about 34 psi after 30 seconds or so, probably a leaky injector but I have plenty of gas going to the engine) so that's good too. I am getting a great spark and when the engine is on TDC for #1 the rotor is pointing to that wire in the distributor, also good. It is still possible that it could be a bit late by 10 deg. or so if in fact it did jump a tooth
  8. If I get time this week I will check compression first, then look at the fuel pressure again. It sure wouldn't hurt to disconnect the tach just in case (never thought of that one). Shepherd1, the bulletin was interesting but this engine has been running fine for at least 8 hours and then started giving me trouble only when hot. I don't think it applies to this particular problem but I thank you for furnishing me the info just in case I could use it . The one thing I did not replace was the plug wires, they look good and aren't that old. I moved them away from any metal or hot manifolds in case
  9. Well I am close to giving up and tossing in the towel. After replacing the ignition module and all the other ignition parts for which I surely figured would solve the problem it did not. Its still hard to start and when I can get it going it sounds like it is running on 4 or 5 cylinders. It is acting just like the cam chain jumped a tooth. or I have one or more bent push rods or even a stuck valve. I suppose when I get a chance I will do a compression test and make sure the rotor is pointing to number 1 when that piston is at top dead center on #1 at the crank. This engine is only about 8 hour
  10. Shepherd, The illustrations you have sent are a huge help in getting an understanding of how this system is constructed. I only received picture number one. Still very helpful. I appreciate all your help. As you requested the serial number from the port engine is OM647746. I replaced it with a rebuilt long block from Atlantic Marine last September, they said it is a common M90 engine. I didn't take the valve covers off the rebuilt unit but I am pretty sure it not as nice as the engine that was in the boat originally as in my old engine had roller rockers and I'll bet the new one does not. How
  11. That's the other thing I wanted to ask. Where is this cannon plug located? Is there one behind each engine? Say top middle behind the intake where I cant get at it like every other thing on this boat? The deck is about 3 inches above the spark arrestors and not enough room to fit my fat head between the engines to look and no room on the outsides of the engines either. What I need is one of my Grandkids to crawl back there but I couldn't do that to them. Some times I wish I was a little person or had a little person for a friend. Everyone I know has a Fred Flintstone physique as do I It is a
  12. Auggie, now that you brought it to light I am also laughing. I cant believe I didn't see it when I wrote it, In fact both species are running as I think of it mammal and aquatic LOL. Its a nice break from the tension I have been feeling. It is nice to have two engines when this kind of thing happens as it does help in the testing and spending department but as one person said to me two engines = double trouble meaning if one item failed chances are the same thing on the other engine may be soon to fail. Ok trying to stay positive, Shepard I have found out that the pickup coil in the distributo
  13. Update on my haunted boat. I had some time this weekend and pulled all the spark plugs (covered in soot bad) installed new plugs gapped at .045 and not .060. also replaced the distributor cap and rotor and also a coil no help. I swapped the ECM's no help. I can get it to start if I play with the throttle but its not running right and dies. TNBrett may have nailed it. One thing I did notice is the spark timing is erratic when I am looking at my scan tool I am getting MULTIPLE ENCODER ERRORS I don't think these have cam sensors and (the crank sensor is new) the only other part of the ignition sy
  14. It is a fuel injected 4.3 MPI/B3 but no coil packs. It has a single coil and ignition module with one high tension wire running to the distributor cap which is of the flat design and four horizontal towers on one side and three on the other. Now I am thinking it may be a bad distributor cap or somehow I have moisture in there and I'm getting crossfire. Granted the caps are not old but it wouldn't take long for moister to get inside them. Living on the gulf coast in south Mississippi humidity and lots of rain is always an issue, moisture is everywhere. I have read and been told the flat distrib
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