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    Pass Christian, MS

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  1. My question to the forum. Is it very difficult to remove a bravo 3 out drive on a 2003 270 sig with twins? I have a restricted thru transom pipe that I believe is the problem. I dont know if its easier to cut a hole in the hull and install a new raw water pickup with a cutoff valve and run rubber hose to the raw water impeller or pull the outdrive. Please remember I've never done this type of thing before. It's on s trailer in the yard and my budget is getting smaller. Any advise will help. Thanks all!
  2. My 2003 Sig. Twin 4.3, I have an outside starboard engine head that I believe is cracked or rusted through and I'm ingesting water on that side of the engine. My question to The Forum, I've done this type of work my whole life ( cyl. Head r&r) but I've never tried to remove a cylinder head in such a cramped area and trying not to remove the intake manifold. I just don't want to have to remove the distributor nor do I know if there's enough room to pull it straight up out of the engine back there. Have any of you out there replaced one cylinder by just pulling the intake up a little bit to get the head back off and then back on over the aligning pins? If so, I'd like to hear about it. Thank you!
  3. NOPE! Its now July 26th and boat is still sick. Had above Mechanic install cool fuel pump, took 4 hours in 100 deg weather. He was beat and almost passing out but it did not solve the problem. I haven't seen or heard back from him. Maybe one of the ghosts from the boat got him. So I bit the bullet and went down to the boat and removed all the injectors and had them tested and cleaned and put them back in yesterday. I also found the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator off the nipple down at the cool fuel box. It now runs just a bit better as there was a huge vacuum leak from that and now it doesn't backfire up the intake but when I rev it to keep it from stalling its very raspy sounding so I know its still lean. Now when I shut it off I hear what sounds like a short hiss like a tire leak that lasts only 2 seconds.. Its very faint but its always there. I cant tell exactly where its coming from as I am all alone doing this and cant pin point it. I suspect it is the vacuum can on the fuel rail the one to kill the fuel pulses in the rail. I am going to pull that off next and see if the screen is clogged and or the diaphragm has a leak in it. I'm getting closer I think.
  4. Big Thank you to Bt Doctur who was kind enough to PM me with step by step instructions on just how to R+R my "cool fuel" box and fuel pump. THANK YOU SIR!
  5. Thanks Roady68! Yep that's what I ended up getting an Airtex E11004 fuel pump from Rock Auto for 107 Deer + SH another 7 Deer. Now my Mechanic friend has gone missing. I cant reach him and he isn't returning my calls. He probably doesn't want to do the work. I cant blame him its 95 deg. here when it isn't pouring rain and its doesn't look easy to get at. I may have to do the work myself if its going to get done for July 4th weekend. I really don't want to do the work I'm not very thin and I'm not in the best of health but it wont be the first or last time I have to do something I don't want to do.Has anyone got first hand experience doing the job? I could use some tips. From what I have read I can remove all my port side batteries and lay down some foam for comfort and the "fuel cooler box" is held onto the motor mount with two nuts. Would it be best to remove all the fuel lines from the filter end and disconnect the vacuum hose from the far end and remove the whole fuel cooling box and all the lines attached and swap the pump at the bench or can I get in there and just R+R the pump under the engine and behind the motor mount. Is there enough room?
  6. Ok I had a local and the same Mechanic who installed this engine last fall over to check it out. After 20 minutes with me at the helm and keeping the engine running (very rough running but running) he determined that the fuel pump is bad. He said "I don't know if you could see the fuel pressure gauge as we were running it but as the revs were going up the gauge was dropping too low and just dancing all over the place". The engine does pop up (backfire) through the intake and as he described it " you have a lean run condition" I know it is a PITA to install one of these fuel pumps as it sits low on the port side of the engine in a "cool fuel" box. Of course its the port engine so all the batteries have to be moved to get at it and it will take a few hours to get it done. The part# is 861156A-1 which is discontinued. I can get it if I buy the whole "cool fuel kit" but I would rather just buy a pump as I'm not made of money and the Mechanic said labor will be about 400 to 500 Deer (OUCH) I'd try it myself but I'd be so sore and broken afterwards. I'll just have to pay him so I can still report to work so I can afford to pay him. The problem I am facing now, the pump is discontinued and I want a New old stock (NOS) pump or a pump I can trust as I don't want or need to do this again any time soon. There are so many aftermarket electric high pressure fuel pumps of this design and it is used on cars and trucks so they all look the same and run in cost from 50 deer to 200 deer. Some are Airtex and some are Mallory and some are Chinese. I cant find any OEM (Black painted) Mercruiser original old stock pumps. If anyone knows of a good source or even has one please let me know. Anyone who knows of a trusted brand or where I can get one of those please let me know. At least I know what is wrong and may be back on the water soon so things are looking up
  7. My haunted boat is Still not running and haunted. I Did a compression test on my 4.3 MPI engine and I have 145-150psi in every cylinder so that's good. Fuel pressure was 40psi ("head pressure", ignition on but not running and it leaked down to about 34 psi after 30 seconds or so, probably a leaky injector but I have plenty of gas going to the engine) so that's good too. I am getting a great spark and when the engine is on TDC for #1 the rotor is pointing to that wire in the distributor, also good. It is still possible that it could be a bit late by 10 deg. or so if in fact it did jump a tooth on the timing gear. I cant tell by just looking at the rotor in the distributor, but it is very close. Still no change in the symptoms at all. All the plugs are carbon on one side and gas washed on the other side of the porcelain, odd looking. It cranks and wants to start but wont until I am almost at full throttle and pumping them to keep it running and it sounds like its running on three cylinders and not six. I did forget to try disconnecting the tach. . I just don't know what to do next, I don't have a timing light or I would have looked at the timing mark but then I cant keep it running unless I'm pumping the throttle so I broke down and called a local mechanic (same guy who installed the engine last fall.) He is meeting me after work, I hope he can find the problem I'm missing out on the new Red snapper extended Federal season and the fourth of July is near. I NEED MY BOAT TO RUN! It may be time to let her go and just get a center console and a nice outboard and be done with it. I'll miss the head, flat screen TV, microwave and lots of sleeping space not to mention the coffee maker stove and fridge but at least it will hopefully not be haunted and will run for me so I can enjoy the water again. I'll keep Y'all posted....
  8. If I get time this week I will check compression first, then look at the fuel pressure again. It sure wouldn't hurt to disconnect the tach just in case (never thought of that one). Shepherd1, the bulletin was interesting but this engine has been running fine for at least 8 hours and then started giving me trouble only when hot. I don't think it applies to this particular problem but I thank you for furnishing me the info just in case I could use it . The one thing I did not replace was the plug wires, they look good and aren't that old. I moved them away from any metal or hot manifolds in case some were grounding out and will ohm them out after I check compression. once I know the compression is fine I will keep looking at ignition and fuel. I think at this point I should start at the beginning again and to me that is COMPRESSION as I need to make sure mechanically all is good. Then fuel system and back to ignition.
  9. Well I am close to giving up and tossing in the towel. After replacing the ignition module and all the other ignition parts for which I surely figured would solve the problem it did not. Its still hard to start and when I can get it going it sounds like it is running on 4 or 5 cylinders. It is acting just like the cam chain jumped a tooth. or I have one or more bent push rods or even a stuck valve. I suppose when I get a chance I will do a compression test and make sure the rotor is pointing to number 1 when that piston is at top dead center on #1 at the crank. This engine is only about 8 hours old. I'm just fed up with this boat always having something wrong with it. As far as other odd things happening. I did notice the tach even when I can get the engine spinning up around 3k RPM the tach only registers 1k RPM and the engine is obviously spinning higher than that. ( very Odd ). I also didn't disconnect the canon plug and spread the pins in the engine harness. I just cant get to it well enough to see what I am doing. I'm thinking my problems may indeed be mechanical now and I may look into it but I'm so disgusted with it I may pull it out of the water and sell it.
  10. Shepherd, The illustrations you have sent are a huge help in getting an understanding of how this system is constructed. I only received picture number one. Still very helpful. I appreciate all your help. As you requested the serial number from the port engine is OM647746. I replaced it with a rebuilt long block from Atlantic Marine last September, they said it is a common M90 engine. I didn't take the valve covers off the rebuilt unit but I am pretty sure it not as nice as the engine that was in the boat originally as in my old engine had roller rockers and I'll bet the new one does not. However all the ancillaries were transferred over to the rebuilt engine so all the electrics are from that serial number engine. Yes, I am thankful I don't have 350's down there I cant imagine how any work can be done on those unless you dismantle things to reach other things. If the rain stops I will go down to the marina today and will swap the ignition control module from the good engine if I can get at it and remove it. I will also look for the cannon plug and gently spread the pins and reattach. This has been a long and unpleasant period for me and I just want to thank everyone, I don't think I would have lasted this long without all your help. Thank you all !
  11. That's the other thing I wanted to ask. Where is this cannon plug located? Is there one behind each engine? Say top middle behind the intake where I cant get at it like every other thing on this boat? The deck is about 3 inches above the spark arrestors and not enough room to fit my fat head between the engines to look and no room on the outsides of the engines either. What I need is one of my Grandkids to crawl back there but I couldn't do that to them. Some times I wish I was a little person or had a little person for a friend. Everyone I know has a Fred Flintstone physique as do I It is a great idea and one I definitely need to try, just have to get to it......and yes bat switches will be off, promise.
  12. Auggie, now that you brought it to light I am also laughing. I cant believe I didn't see it when I wrote it, In fact both species are running as I think of it mammal and aquatic LOL. Its a nice break from the tension I have been feeling. It is nice to have two engines when this kind of thing happens as it does help in the testing and spending department but as one person said to me two engines = double trouble meaning if one item failed chances are the same thing on the other engine may be soon to fail. Ok trying to stay positive, Shepard I have found out that the pickup coil in the distributor is being referred to as the cam sensor in some places. It is a Hall switch I believe and the Mercruiser catalogs don't list a part number it is item #6 in the illustration you posted. I have a V6 4.3 your listing for reference only was for a V8 I believe. I would expect them to be the same. If the module doesn't do the trick then the cam sensor is the only other thing in the system unless God forbid my timing chain jumped a tooth etc. This engine only has 7 hours on it so I wont expect that is the case but that is how this engine is acting. If I can I am going to try and take the ignition module off the good engine and give it a try. There is no room to do any of this work and most of what I am doing is by feel rather that sight so yes it will be a PITA. I think it is held in place by two Phillips head screws that hold it and the heat sink to the coil mounting bracket. I will post again tomorrow providing its not raining too hard here.
  13. Update on my haunted boat. I had some time this weekend and pulled all the spark plugs (covered in soot bad) installed new plugs gapped at .045 and not .060. also replaced the distributor cap and rotor and also a coil no help. I swapped the ECM's no help. I can get it to start if I play with the throttle but its not running right and dies. TNBrett may have nailed it. One thing I did notice is the spark timing is erratic when I am looking at my scan tool I am getting MULTIPLE ENCODER ERRORS I don't think these have cam sensors and (the crank sensor is new) the only other part of the ignition system that I have not replaced is the ignition control module that sits on a heat sink next to the coil and usually comes as one unit when you buy a new coil assembly from Mercruiser. so that has to be the problem ( I HOPE AND PRAY!!! ). I don't think there are any other parts of the ignition system other than the pick-up inside the distributor that sits under the rotor. From what I have researched when these start to fail it usually shows up as heat related. If you look back at the middle of this post the boat would start up cold and run fine unless I stopped to fish or sit for an hour or so and would not start/run when hot. Now it wont start at all. This has to be it ! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE If I have missed any other part of this ignition system someone please let me know. Red Snapper season is just opening and I need to get out there.
  14. It is a fuel injected 4.3 MPI/B3 but no coil packs. It has a single coil and ignition module with one high tension wire running to the distributor cap which is of the flat design and four horizontal towers on one side and three on the other. Now I am thinking it may be a bad distributor cap or somehow I have moisture in there and I'm getting crossfire. Granted the caps are not old but it wouldn't take long for moister to get inside them. Living on the gulf coast in south Mississippi humidity and lots of rain is always an issue, moisture is everywhere. I have read and been told the flat distributor caps can be problematic with cross firing. Now thinking more about it some of the popping from the engine while cranking and it trying to start sounds like the fuel in some of the cylinders are being ignited when the piston is not at top dead center. I checked the routing of the plug wires and they are on correctly (thinking absurdly that someone may have been playing a practical joke on me by switching them) just to make sure but it sounds like the distributor is 180 deg. out and I know it is not but that is sort of how it is acting (without the pops coming up the intake) so before I go and change the ignition switch I am going to inspect the caps on both engines. As far as the switch, isn't it possible to have the contacts for cranking be ok and the run contacts be bad or is it all the same contact surface, I'm not sure? As far as the modules, my experience with solid state equipment is that it works or it doesn't work but anything is possible. I have not swapped modules but that will be in the future if the caps or switch doesn't fix it. Does anyone want to chime in on the best way to run new ground cables from the blocks to ground? Can I just get battery cables and run them to the blocks from the negative post on the battery?
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