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  1. Thanks... I'll look look into installing a "solenoid actuated anti siphon valve" and report back. Thanks!
  2. The flappers were in place when the mechanic took the exhaust apart. So it was evident this part was from a previous event. However even the "new ones" showed signs of heat damage and so we replaced them again. I definitely see your point on the exhaust tube leaking enough to not create a serious blockage. The IAC valve was a Merc part so not a cheap aftermarket. I like you am not convinced that it is not a vapor lock problem, as that is exactly the evidence. Part of the troubleshooting issue is that it has not duplicated the problem for the mechanic in the shop. I have forwarded the l
  3. Exhaust is a tube that makes contact when the unit down. I am hoping that the plate we found in there somehow would flitter up and block the exhaust and create the problem kind of like you described as the Halloween trick. One thing I never tried, which I would have never thought this would have been the problem, was to raise the drive unit up and the lower it back down when the engine wouldn't run. Maybe this would have floated the plate back down out of the way and allow the engine to run again. But I'm just grabbing at straws on this at this point. Your input is appreciated, ple
  4. I purchased my 2005 256 ssi with a 350 MPI at the beginning of the season. Boat runs out good but after a while when throttled back to idle it may (very sparatticly) run rough and eventually die. It will usually crank back up but will run rough and die again. More often than not, the boat just needs to sit for a bit and then it will crank and run fine. If you are familiar with vapor lock, I would have sworn that would be the problem. The mechanic and I have been chasing this issue all season. Ruled out fuel issues first. Gas tank vent, good. Fuel filter, replaced. Fuel pressure go
  5. WD

    Engine hatch switch

    Thanks for the reply... I finally noitced that there was an access point to the back of the dash from the storage locker between the dash and bow. I was able to get a decent view of the wiring and locate my bad connection.
  6. While attempting to repair another switch contact I have apparently pulled a connector loose from the engine hatch switch on the dash. I have a 2005 256ssi. There is not enough wire to allow me to pull the dash panel forward enough to get my hand to the back of the switches let alone the ability to pull it out far enough to inspect. Is all of that nest of wiring connected to a harness somewhere under there that would allow me to disconnect it and pull the dash panel completely out? Suggestions?
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