sburke91

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About sburke91

  1. Not inexpensive, but this would do the trick: https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/portable+water+deionizer.do?sortby=ourPicksAscend&refType=&from=fn
  2. I'm pretty sure Merc is using their own blocks now, but V-P is using the new generation of GM blocks for their gas engines.
  3. Rarely does anyone say "I should have bought a smaller boat". Having gone from a similar starting point (16.5' Sugar Sand jet boat) to our 225 SSI, I strongly suggest going as big as you can tow/store/afford.
  4. The fact that the NY home has gas heat and the VA one electric (even with a heat pump) is a big reason why the difference in the overall electric bill alone. While not a perfect apples to apples comparison, comparing the sum of your electric and gas bills on the NY home to the same in the VA home will give you a quickie look at how much it is or is not out of whack.
  5. They just redid the whole marina last year (new docks, brand new shore power and water services), so everything should be to the absolute latest code. I can testify that, at last as of August of last year, there were no noticeable stray currents in the water around by boat, as a mis-step while putting the cover on the boat sent me off the swim platform and completely into the water next to the dock. The first thought that went through my head as I hit the water was "I hope the electricians did a good job". The docks have a master GFCI setup (about a 2'x2'x1' panel), with warning lights and reset buttons at the top of each section of dock. It popped a couple of times this summer, so appears to work, but I have no idea what current it takes to trip it.
  6. Yep. I know MG's the most reactive metal, and definitely want it that way, as I'd rather replace MG anodes every year or two and clean the deposits vs. corrosion attacking the drive. The amount of anode that's gone, after one season in the water, looks about in line with what it should be. The deposits on the stainless ares are also somewhat expected, just annoying. They come off with both a hard direct hit with a pressure washer and with a green scotch-brite pad. The boat was previously a salt water boat, and had some corrosion on the edges of the drive, near the prop, but that didn't progress almost at all this year (I'm going to refinish the lower portion of the drive this off season). Putting the galvanic islolator in is more about getting this as perfect as possible and ensuring that my new shore power setup doesn't introduce a new path of electrical leakage.
  7. Anyone have recommendations on good 30A fail-safe galvanic isolators? The ProMariner one looks very nice, but 250 deer is a lot for the size of shore power setup I'm putting in.
  8. I agree on the charger/maintainer. It's been a champ this year. It's just time to build real shore power, mainly so I can put a fridge in and not have to remember to bring drinks to the boat every trip I'm paying for the shore power at the dock, so might as well get as much value out of it as I can, even on a smaller boat.
  9. I was using 'charger' as a generic term. It's this unit, which should be fully isolated: http://www.promariner.com/en/52024
  10. The big thing I'm trying to get a better bead on is any guidance around cable routing/securing (i.e. can it run next to DC wiring, what areas are off limits, etc.). I'm pretty clear on the length limits to a breaker, cable type, crimped ring terminals at the ends, all that jazz, but am fuzzy on that first part.
  11. Thanks. I plan to put a fail safe galvanic isolator in (#%^$&%$, they're pricy though). Just from sitting in the (fresh) water for 4 months, my Mg anodes lost 20-25% of their mass, with some of it depositing on the stainless steel parts on the stern, and that's with only the charger connected to the shore power. The one plus I have, from a safety standpoint, is that the docks were just redone, and the shore power's all new, so the GFI on each dock section is less than a year old, and meets the most recent standards.
  12. One of my planned offseason projects is to add true shore power to the boat, replacing the simple 15A through hull that goes straight to the onboard charger with a 30A input, proper panel, and outlets for both the charger and a planned 120v/12v fridge. I picked up a pristine used EZACDC shore power panel for a song, and want to ensure I install everything to code. Does anyone know an online source (cheap or free) to get the ABYC electrical standards? I found a list here: http://abycinc.org/general/custom.asp?page=StandardsList, but would rather not shell out $75 (I paid less than that for the panel!) for something I only need once.
  13. This thread has great info there:
  14. I fourth this one! Last season was our first with a dock, and after about 2 trips out we set up a 'permanent' set of lines on the dock that we can just slip on the cleats when we come back. Fenders too--having a separate set of big fenders strung on the dock is a wonderful addition. It makes life so much more pleasant going in and out.
  15. Depending on the engine/drive manufacturer, you should be able to get a service manual (factory or aftermarket for it). For the auxiliary equipment, Google is your friend, as are knowledgeable people around your area. Think of a boat more like a house than a car--do you get an operating manual when you buy a pre-owned home?