Water Dawg 6

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About Water Dawg 6

  1. Thanks Gents, figured I could bi-pass it, just wanted confirmation. I did all my checks the evening prior, that's why I wasn't going to check again Sunday morning. Guess I learned my lesson there. Take care.
  2. Gentlemen, I planned an ocean fishing trip with my family for Sunday. The plan was to go out 25 miles and fish for some king fish in my 290 Signature, which has been fitting for fishing/trolling. I went out to the boat on Saturday, filled her up, did all my safety checks to include checking all the fluids, starting her up, etc. On Sunday the family and I loaded up the boat and I was un-tying the rear rope from the dock when I saw water discharging out my bilge. At first I told my wife not to put the cooler down over the engine hatch because I was going to have to make sure there wasn't water in the bilge. Then the water stopped discharging. So I just figured it was probably just from the rain yesterday and I told her never mind we'll shove off. Then it discharged again so I changed my mind and opened the engine compartment. Upon doing so and with the engines running water was poring into the boat from where the red hose that runs from your engine connects to your hot water heater. Water was coming in faster than the bilge was kicking it out. I check the hose connections and they were good and I jiggled the fitting around to make sure the pipe the red hose was connected to at the hot water heater was corroded - and it wasn't. But the water was poring out of the hot water heater area right where it connects. In any event, I shut the engine down. If I didn't choose to check the engine compartment, the boat surely would have sank or at least the engine compartment would have surely filled up with water anyways and stalled the motors. Question: I assume the hot water heater needs to be replaced? Number two, until my hot water heater arrives is there anything wrong with disconnecting the two red hoses from hot water heater that come from the engine and simply connect those hoses together? Basically bypassing the hot water heater and establishing a simply loop right back to the motor?
  3. Gentlemen, I planned an ocean fishing trip with my family for Sunday. The plan was to go out 25 miles and fish for some king fish in my 290 Signature, which has been fitting for fishing/trolling. I went out to the boat on Saturday, filled her up, did all my safety checks to include checking all the fluids, starting her up, etc. On Sunday the family and I loaded up the boat and I was un-tying the rear rope from the dock when I saw water discharging out my bilge. At first I told my wife not to put the cooler down over the engine hatch because I was going to have to make sure there wasn't water in the bilge. Then the water stopped discharging. So I just figured it was probably just from the rain yesterday and I told her never mind we'll shove off. Then it discharged again so I changed my mind and opened the engine compartment. Upon doing so and with the engines running water was poring into the boat from where the red hose that runs from your engine connects to your hot water heater. Water was coming in faster than the bilge was kicking it out. I check the hose connections and they were good and I jiggled the fitting around to make sure the pipe the red hose was connected to at the hot water heater was corroded - and it wasn't. But the water was poring out of the hot water heater area right where it connects. In any event, I shut the engine down. If I didn't choose to check the engine compartment, the boat surely would have sank or at least the engine compartment would have surely filled up with water anyways and stalled the motors. Question: I assume the hot water heater needs to be replaced? Number two, until my hot water heater arrives is there anything wrong with disconnecting the two red hoses from hot water heater that come from the engine and simply connect those hoses together? Basically bypassing the hot water heater and establishing a simply loop right back to the motor?
  4. Jay, I have a friend with a 300 and he has a Lewmar Pro Fish 700 Windlass on his. I would stick with Lewmar and as for what size and type will fit your boat. Here's a link that will help. Also, Iggy is right in that it will depend on the size of chain and rope setup you are using because you have to choose the Windlass that has the appropriate Gypsy size for that chain/rope rode. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj6q4zEqP_WAhWJOCYKHUHwDfgQFghFMAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.westmarine.com%2FWestAdvisor%2FSelecting-An-Anchor-Windlass&usg=AOvVaw3Uls6XRObUKERQx43Chung
  5. Thanks for the responses gents. I have the Dock Master checking the shore power itself today to make sure that isn't the problem before I start looking at my Isolator or my shore cable. The dock did go underwater a few weeks back when we hurricane was passing bye. Even though they turned the power off before the docks went under water, I think it still maybe the problem.
  6. Yes, my shore power is hooked up and on. I'm running the battery charger right now off of it. I know it's a safety device that helps protect against electrolysis but I can't find the device. The monitor is on the wall on the left hand side at the bottom of the steps into the cabin. So you think it's behind there?
  7. I have a Signature 290 - My Galvonic Isolator monitor is showing faults. I looked in the engine compartment trying to locate the Isolator and don't see it. Does anyone know where it is located?
  8. I have twin Mercs 5.0L MPIs. The problem is right were the cover hinges to rear of the boat. There simply isn't any clearance. I kid you not just to remove my flame arrestors, I had to cut some lip away and pry the rear of the boat (where the hatch is hinged too) up with a long medal pipe as I pulled the flame arrestors out. Next time I go the boat I'll take a pic for you guys.
  9. Iggy, I agree that the j1939 gateway will read almost everything. However, because it does attach directly to the current on-board gauges if those gauges aren't working properly (like your trim tab gauge for example) the data won't be displayed on the Garmin Head Unit. For this reason, I was told to install separate sensors that connect to my NMEA network that work independently from the on-board gauges. Thus if your on-board gauges/sensors/sending units fail - you still have accurate data going to your Garmin Head Unit (Lowrance, Raymarine, etc.) I'm surely not an expert at this, just relaying what I was told. Of course the way I was told to do it seems like it's going to be a lot of dear. I haven't done anything yet, except I did have my GFS-10 Fuel sensors installed. Best thing I ever did, since fuel gauges (sending units) tend to fail frequently and also with the movement of the boat, often aren't very accurate.
  10. And a mirror I guess since I can even see the screw.
  11. Each device you're going to want to connect to your NMEA network and view on your Garmin has there own separate sensors you have to purchase. For example if you want to view your fuel consumption on your Garmin you have to purchase and install the Garmin GFS-10 fuel sensors. Same thing goes for viewing your engine's trim on your display - you have to purchase a separate sensor that connects to your equipment. The Garmin head units all come compatible for viewing all your data, but separate equipment/sensors are required.
  12. Join the club, they always fail. It's not the gauge and it rarely ever is. I'd return that and get your deer back. There are actually two wires going to your low unit, one is your Trim Limit switch/sensor and other is your sender. They come in a kit now for like 66 deer. However, to replace them the outdrives have to pulled (most of the time) and that's where the deer comes into play unless you do it yourself. Sometimes like someone above said they may get pinched but usually they're just corroded and have to be replaced.
  13. Any Sig 290 owners out there that are not made of rubber and don't like the game of twister.. I literally had to cut away some of the rear fiber glass from my engine compartment hatch to be able to remove my flame arrestors. Now I have new Distributer Caps, rotors and sparkplugs to install but even with the hatch held all the way open, I can't even see to be able to get a screw driver in there to remove the old rotors. There is only like a 2 inch gap between the back of the engine hatch and the top of my flame arrestors. Same issue with getting to the rear plugs. Even if I removed the hatch, the lip of deck of the boat the hatch fits in will still be in the way. Any suggestions?
  14. For your rear speakers, I would put them directly behind the rear seat. Behind that seat should be the trunk area of your boat that you access from your swim platform. That way you can easily run the wires into your engine compartment to your amp. As for the Subwoofer, there's not a great place on deck to put one to be honest with you. Unless you have one custom built to fit inside/under your passenger seat.
  15. Thanks all. Cyclops, I'm in the NC Outter Banks and the Marina's close to the inlet want heard of deer to dock there. Definitely wouldn't be more cost effective and my truck wouldn't pull this boat even if I had a trailer so that option is out the window as well. It's about 25 miles to the start of the fishing grounds but my fuel consumption is just terrible that is why I was pondering running on one engine. My initial thoughts were right in line with Brick and Soldier just wanted to tap you guys for your opinions on this. Iggy, I have Garmin Fuel Flow sensors installed and what they tell me is my boat drinks more fuel than I do beer lol. I usually run about 3,600 RPMs heading down the creek towards the inlet, going about 26-28 knots. I usually back off of it on my way back to the dock so that I know I will make it back to the dock - slowing to 3,000 RPMs.