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Water Dawg 6

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  1. Water Dawg 6

    White Smoke / Gauge Cluster / New Owner / 1997 Sunesta 210

    You definitely have a ground wire that is not grounded somewhere. You need to trace all those ground wires and ensure they're going to common ground on the boat. And by the look of it, you have a ground wire touching a power wire somewhere. Definitely get with Shephard and get that wiring diagram and disconnect those gauges until you find the issue. Cause you're going to end up frying your new gauges while trying to figure out the problem. I'd simply hire a boat electric guy instead of playing the hit or miss game.
  2. Water Dawg 6

    Sig 290 center windshield and radar arch track for bimini

    It is totally an optical illusion as I replaced the glass in mine myself. It does have a slight green color to it and the corners are slightly rounded as well. But heck if he get the one about he's good.
  3. Water Dawg 6

    Newbie - battery / start up issue

    Clicking...easy day...It's the solenoid located on the top of the engine. Cheap part and easy to replace. Or it's the solenoid on your starter. Start with one on top of the engine, I'm pretty sure that's the problem. If not, replace the one on the starter or simply replace the starter. Obviously, check all wire connections and make sure there is no corrosion on the battery terminals. No big deal. As for the stalling etc. I would suspect the gas was sitting in the boat for awhile, so bad gas will do that. Need to put some fuel treatment in the tank. Also, remove your fuel water separator(s) and empty the gas into a glass jar to see if you see any water. Replace the fuel water separator(s) and your in-line fuel filters if you have them on that boat.
  4. Water Dawg 6

    Sig 290 center windshield and radar arch track for bimini

    Hey GreatLakesSkipper has one for the Sig 280. Just ask for the exact measurement and double check to make sure it fits. I'm almost 99% sure it does, cause I'm pretty sure that's the one I bought from Taylor Made. Chaparral Boat Center Walkthrough Door 588-1045074 | 280 Signature $249.95 from Great Lakes Skipper Boat part number 7200911 is a new OEM center walkthrough windshield door for a 280 Signature model Chaparral Boat
  5. Water Dawg 6

    low oil pressure, high temp coming off plane

    There are even less moving parts with that system. Check the things I mentioned before and also go to Sterndrives.com and shoot them an email with the issue. The master mech there is great and will reply to you very quickly.
  6. Water Dawg 6

    low oil pressure, high temp coming off plane

    Then honestly, it's a cooling system issue. And the cooling system functionality isn't that complicated. So either those impellers are bad, there is sand in there, the water pump seals are leaking (that's why I said to check under the pumps after you run the engines and then shut them off) or the thermostat is bad or going bad. My boat is raw water cooled? is yours? Cause that would have an impact on what advice I'm giving.
  7. Water Dawg 6

    Sig 290 center windshield and radar arch track for bimini

    I just got done doing the center windshield on my 290. The center windshield is the same exact one used on the 280 signature and TM has the part number for that. I'm at work now but when I get home I can get you the part number and the part number for the rubber seals that go around with window as well. I can tell you this, TM charged me 800 for just the glass. There is nothing special about that glass, it is not curved or anything, so if you have a local glass company I would go with them.
  8. Water Dawg 6

    low oil pressure, high temp coming off plane

    I know you said the water pump looked new, but did you look at the Impellers themselves? Also, after you run the boat, shut if off and look under your water pumps to see if they're leaking. Also, you said you have new exhaust - does that mean you have new manifolds and risers as well. Cause bad manifolds will cause that temp to go up and will also cause water to eventually get in your oil. A simple bad thermostat could be problem as well but doesn't explain the lost of oil preasure. Do you see signs of leaking oil in the bildge? If you are losing oil and your boat is smoking like a chimney than it's not burning it, it's leaking out from somewhere and lack of oil will surely cause the engine temp to rise.
  9. Water Dawg 6

    Battery Charger/Electrical Issue

    Your question was "I am trying to figure why shore power doesn't work on the boat even though the cabin meter shows power." Everything else mentioned can be tied to not having any shore power for an extended amount of time. Someone mentioned unplugging the shore power and plugging it back in. That is exactly what I would do. This happens at my dock all the time. I actually have a reverse polarity light that comes on when polarity is reversed and when this light is on, I have no shore power. Even though I know the polarity isn't reversed...the problem is always that my shoreline is loose where it connects to the dock. Shut the switch off on the boat that controls the shore power, unplug it, plug it back and in and turn the switch back on. Also, most battery chargers work only when the battery selector switch is in the off mode, so make sure your battery switch is off then look to see if you have lights on the charger. Process of elimination....check all the easy "common sense" type things that we all over look sometimes first. Also, have your neighbor plug your shore line into his boat. See if he gets power...the actually shore cable itself could be bad or something could be going on with the shore power outlet on the dock your plugging into. That could be a reason it's showing some power on your display but there could still be issues with the line.
  10. Water Dawg 6

    Cool Fuel Module cooling hose fittings

    Dozer, I have a 2005 290 Sig and I have to put my manifolds and risers in this weekend. I completely removed the engine compartment hatch but let me ask you this: I was going to install the Risers onto the Manifolds on the workbench and install them as one piece vice doing them separate. Is there enough room to do this? Especially on the side where that waste water tank is? I believe above you said you installed them this way, did you run into any issues besides dropping one of them? Did you have remove any other parts to get them in? Thanks
  11. Water Dawg 6

    Merc 8.2 impeller change instructions

    You can find almost all of our Service Manuals here: boatinfo.com I have twin 5.0 Mercs with Bravo III's and you'll see that it's not as hard you think it's going to be. Just remember when you take those hoses off the back of that water pump, one is going to pore water into the boat. My instructions said to plug it with something but you can also just hold it straight into the air and then use a string to tie it to something.
  12. Water Dawg 6

    Merc 8.2 impeller change instructions

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwipheejqevgAhUDMt8KHUHXBugQFjALegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.perfprotech.com%2Fblog%2Farticles%2Fmercruiser-impeller-installation&usg=AOvVaw1iOCTc6_QZLyoKH9nks-jK Just note that you don't have to remove the thermostat housing since you're not looking for a problem you just want to replace your impellers. As stated above pretty easy job and again, I'd just take the water pump out of the boat and change the impellers out on a work bench. Here are step by step directions: The Bravo does not have a water pump in the drive. The Bravo's water pump is mounted on the engine. It is usually down low in the bilge on the front lower starboard side of the engine. The Raw Water pump should be rebuilt every season. The Bravo Water Pump is belt driven. It has two hoses attached to the rear housing. One hose is the water intake hose and the other feeds to the engine. The advantage to having the water pump mounted to the engine is that the boat does not have to be hauled to service the pump. Mercruiser has made some changes to the pump design and method of mounting through the years. Early Raw Water pumps such as those on the old 340 or 7.4L Inboards and TRS model engines used a "clamp-style" bracket which clamped to the nose of the pump. Later styles used a cast bracket to which the pump mounted to on the front side of the pump housing. Later on came the stamped steel brackets which are still used today. Early fuel injected and carbureted engines mounted the mechanical fuel pump to the side of the water pump housing. If you have a fuel pump mounted to your water pump housing special care must be taken to avoid damage to the fuel lines while servicing the water pump. In short... you will loosen and remove the fuel lines and take the entire water pump assembly off of the engine with the fuel pump still attached. More on this later. To service the Raw Water Pump it will have to be removed from the engine along with its bracket. It's a fairly easy job although restriction to access can make removal and installation difficult. Rebuilding your Raw Water Pump Assembly First remove your boats battery as so the engine won't crank and injure you. I know, it sounds corny but just do it. Stick your head down into the bilge and take a close look at how the two hoses attach to the back of the water pump rear housing. If you accidentally reverse these hoses when installing the pump, you will ruin your new impellar. Label both hoses and draw the configuration on a note-pad so that when you go to reassemble the pump to the engine you won't get the hoses reversed. Be aware that if you have the boat in the water that when you remove the hoses from the pump that water might start rushing into the bilge. Never leave the boat once the pump is disconnected unless you have clamped a plug into the intake hose to prevent the boat from sinking. Look to see if you have a fuel pump mounted to the side of the water pump. If you have a fuel pump mounted to the side of the water pump, you will have to shut off your fuel supply at the fuel tank. Failure to close off your fuel tank could result in damage, injury or death. I know... it sounds corny but just do it. Once your fuel valve is closed and you know that you have already removed the battery from the boat, it is safe to proceed. Use a good 3/4" Flare Wrench and loosen and remove all the metal fuel lines. This will allow you to remove the water pump with the fuel pump still attached. The pump is mounted to the engine with one Main Bracket and one Brace. The Main Bracket is mounted to the front face of the pump. It also bolts to the front of the engine block with two bolts. Older Vee-Belt equipped engines had the Main Bracket had a slot in the lower bolt hole which allowed the pump to swivel in and out to tighten the belt. Newer engines with tensioner pulleys and/or Serpentine Belts did not need the slotted Main Bracket. The Brace is about 1" wide and flat. It bolts to the bottom of the water pump and usually passes under the front of the engine and bolts to the front of the block. This brace gives the pump a little more support. Earlier braces were slotted to allow the pump to swing to adjust and tighten the water pump belt. If the water pump has it's own belt, it will have the slotted Main Bracket and slotted and adjustable lower Brace. Use a slotted screw driver or a 5/16" nut driver and loosen the hose clamps that hold the large fat thromostat hose in place. Remove the hose. This will give you better access to the Main Bracket's mounting bolts. READ THIS: The upper Main Bracket bolt may be located just behind the Circulation Water Pump. Depending on what model engine you have, you may or may not be able to remove this bolt without first removing the Circulation Water Pump. The Circulation Water Pump is the wide metal pump bolted to the middle of the front of the block. It is held onto the block with 4 bolts. The upper Main Bracket bolt might just barely clear the Circulation Water Pump. Some do and some don't. I suggest that you try to remove this bolt FIRST. If it won't clear the metal Circulation Water Pump, you will simply have to remove the Circulation Water Pump. No biggie. It comes off pretty easily. If neccessary, remove the Circulation Water Pump from the front of the block to allow for the removal of the upper Main Bracket bolt. Use your slotted screw driver or 5/16" nut driver and loosen the clamps to the two water hoses on the back of the Raw Water Pump. Try to pry off the hoses without destroying them. If the boats in the water don't forget to install and secure a plug in the water intake hose. Removing these two hoses from the back of the pump can be difficult. Sometimes it's better to get the pump pulled away from the engine first. Remove the bolt from the port end of the Brace. This bolt is located on the port front side of the block. Remove the lower bolt from the Main Bracket and lift the pump out of the bilge. You should now have the entire Raw Water Pump Assembly along with the Main Bracket and the Brace in your hand.
  13. Water Dawg 6

    Merc 8.2 impeller change instructions

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwipheejqevgAhUDMt8KHUHXBugQFjALegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.perfprotech.com%2Fblog%2Farticles%2Fmercruiser-impeller-installation&usg=AOvVaw1iOCTc6_QZLyoKH9nks-jK Just note that you don't have to remove the thermostat housing since you're not looking for a problem you just want to replace your impellers. As stated above pretty easy job and again, I'd just take the water pump out of the boat and change the impellers out on a work bench.
  14. Water Dawg 6

    GPS speed

    I don't beach mine simply because my boat stays in the water so I have bottom paint. Beaching the boat removes the bottom paint and can get quite costly having to haul her out of the water and repainted every year. Definitely recommend shutting down the motors way before you get to beach though, so your water pump doesn't suck in that sand as stated above. Just about every chart plotter now days shows the GPS speed.
  15. Water Dawg 6

    New Trim Issue

    So I got my trim pumps working just fine. However, when I went to raise the outdrives, my Port drive went all the way up no problem. But my Starboard drive won't go all the way up. It stops about 10 inches shorter than the other. When I hold my switch in, I can hear it trying to work. I did see what appeared to be a little oil in the water in the rear of the boat. I have the diver going down today to make sure there aren't any barnacles or any other obstructions not allowing it go up all the way, and will have him look to see if it's leaking any hydraulic fluid. Other than that I'm thinking there can be an issue with the trim limit sensor/switch for that outdrive. Can you guys think of anything else?
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