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Water Dawg 6

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  1. Kill switch location was a perfect spot for my high water bilge alarm.
  2. There is no kill switch, I removed that years ago. You're right on they hydro-lock that was dumb for me mention. Just doesn't make sense the engine cranks now and won't start. Unless he burned up the impeller running the motor without enough water going to the water pump. The other engine is running fine, so the fuel itself is fine.
  3. Water Dawg 6

    No START

    New boat owner told me that he was out on the boat and the drive belt rubbed a hole into a water hose. Water was all over the place. Now that engine will not start. It's a Mercruiser 5.0 MPI. He attempted to start the boat when the hose still wasn't fixed. Does the Mercruiser safety system not allow the boat to start when not enough water is being supplied to cool the engine? Or when there is a leak in the hose? He didn't smell rubber burning or anything so I don't think he burned up the impeller. The engine is cranking just won't start - Could be hydro-locked??
  4. Concur with Wingnut, but usually 5-7 years is max for risers/manifolds with boat in the water all year long. Monitor your temp, if you see your temp starting to get higher than normal that's usually the first sign that it's time to change them.
  5. Ladies and Gentlemen, I have sold the boat. The new boat owner Mr. David Miller will be joining the forum. Boat name is the Cra-Sea-Cinco and he may now change that. Make sure you all show him the same love and support you gave me over the years. I'll keep my account on here and will chime in where I feel I can help out and contribute. Plan to get a new boat next year. Take care all!!
  6. Where those periods at the end of your sentence or bubbles lol. I'm just going to Marine Epoxy it down. I'm selling the boat so if the new owner wants to screw it down he can.
  7. If he can that would best. Don't know much about the item he's installing but if all connections can be done at the helm then he's good. But if he has any wiring to to do in engine compartment and he has to run wires up to the helm or tape in the sending unit itself, he'll have some work ahead of him.. That's why I mentioned that the access panel for the sending unit is under that GenSet if he has one.
  8. I need to screw my new float switch into the hull of the boat that runs my high water alarm. The location is very close to one of my through-holes. Just don't know how thick that hull is and don't want to use to long of screws. I know to use short ones and put sealant on the screw prior to doing it but again don't know the depth and how deep not to go. Sounds kinda dumb after reading my own post, but holes in the hull of the boat don't usually go well together lol.
  9. I agree with Wingnut as mine use to do that all the time and come to find out it was dock's power box and not my boat what so ever. Plug into a neighbor's and see if you have the same problem. Then also try a different shore power cable to rule that out.
  10. Never done it as I have the 290 as well but I have Garmin GFS 10 Fuel Sensors. You mentioned connecting to the fuel sending unit. I'm just going to warn that you if you have a generator on that boat the access panel to your fuel sending unit is directly under the Generator.
  11. Funny cause I posted the answer about using the snake and today I had to do it again. I have the Sig 290 and I had to run the snake from the helm back to the engine room to install a High Water Alarm. Water1389, all the Sigs have those circular access panels that you unscrew. Start at your helm and look for that first access panel, then look for the second and so on. Also, look at where you see current wires running, that's where you want to push that snake man. Try to track your hand held radio antenia, that wire is pretty good size and should run at least half way down the length of the boat.
  12. yah, you'll get up the average skier no problem.
  13. Oh and see when the zincs where changed out last. These protect your outdrives from corrosion.
  14. I pretty much have the same boat and year. I have the 290 signature. Ask when the last time the impellers where changed out, outdrives pulled and bellows and gimbal bearings done (this could be very costly) ask when the last time the exhaust manifolds and risers where replaced cause you only get between 5-7 years on those and replacing them is costly as well. If I was you, I'd hire a boat surveyor to look the boat over before you purchase it. They're normally boat mechanic type folks and cost around $150 for them to inspect the boat. But they will check and find things you wouldn't even think about. Ask about the bottom paint condition if they boat is in the water, and if it's in the water ask when the last time a diver was down there to clean the barnicles off. If the bottom gets too much growth on it, it makes the boat very heavy and hard to get on plane. Plus, scrapping off all those barnacles will remove half of your bottom paint. The pain helps protect against undergrowth and again, pretty costly to have it sanded, prep'd and painted.
  15. Then you say "what was that honey? Did you say something?" lol
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