Water Dawg 6

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About Water Dawg 6

  1. Neutral is your friend!!! When back into a slip, you bump into gear then right back to neutral. Bump into gear, right back to neutral. It's not a race, the slower the better. Don't be afraid to pull back away from the slip and totally reset/start over. Just remember, bump into gear then get back into neutral. Get out on open water one day and practice out there. I would also suggest bringing someone with you that is good at it, a local Captain if you will and have them teach you some tips/tricks. My boat is 31 feet plus with my swim platform and the first time I backed into my slip there was a severe storm out, gusting winds and a strong current. It took me over two hours to get her in. But now after practice, I got it down pretty good. Anyone that says they're were a pro on the first few times is FOS.
  2. Went out yesterday and had to get towed in. Both engines died on me on the water. It occurred about 20 minutes after hitting some big waves in the inlet. So I'm pretty sure that stirred up the water sitting at the bottom of the fuel tank cause water to get into my fuel pump and into my Fuel Injectors. I'll inspect it this weekend. If water isn't in the tank, I may have ran out of fuel and my Garmin Fuel Senors failed me, but doing the math I'm thinking I should of had about 60 gallons of fuel left on-board and that's what my electronics were saying as well. Question. If I do have water in my tank and it's obvious that it already shut down my engines will a product like MDR Water Zorb alone fix the problem or will have to pump that water of the tank as well? The Water Zorb is supose to consolidate the water in a way in which it can be burned safety without any ill effects to the engine??
  3. Down here in the North Carolina outbanks, I'm more concerned about hitting shoals, Maps and Chartplotters are useless around here. But I do carry a spare impellers and a spare belt as well.
  4. WingNut. I had the Whale Seaward 6 Gallon Hot Water heater with Front Heat Exchanger. The outer case is Galvanized steel, but it rusted out from the inside. The outer case still looked fine.
  5. Changing those zincs definitely increases the life of these heaters. I can't complain though, it took about 10 years for mine to rust out.
  6. Definitely no carb since it's fuel injected. Boatman has lead you in the right direction to check for an electric problem, but I'm leaning towards fuel system problem. Could also be your ICV (Idle Control Valve) or 100 other things. Definitely sounds like a fuel system problem rather than electrical. Also, make sure your injectors are clean, and that your fuel filters have been changed out.
  7. Look into J1708 serial interface. Used alot back back in the day and I think it still is.
  8. Concur! Even with a closed system that impeller pushes the water through the pump to cool the engine. I was 20 miles off shore and I started over-heating - come to find out one of my water pumps got sand it from the week before and it tore up my impeller. Had to change it out on the water in order to get home. Easy to do with Bravo Outdrives but I think with the Alpha outdrives the impeller is located inside the lower unit.
  9. I don't have a closed cooled system and my Hot Water Heater rusted out. I did just connect the two red hoses bi-passing the Water Heater and it's been running just fine for a three months now. What alot people don't know is that there is actually a zinc that needs to be changed out that is located at the end of your plumbing. BoatUS Magazine released a detail article on how to find the zinc to repair it and included a bunch of pics. Once you get your new heater, make sure you locate this zinc so you change it out periodically. I just ordered my new heater as well.
  10. Nope...30 MPH is not a good cruising speed for long distance for that boat. Max speed of that boat is probably only about 38-40. I'd cut way down to around 15 MPH. Here is a good website for you: http://www.boat-fuel-economy.com/mercury-mercruiser-twin-engine.html
  11. Forget about the water pump cause that didn't cause that. What do your exhaust manifolds and risers look like? If the boat is over 6-7 years old (Salt Water use, you can get away with a few more years if only ran in fresh water) and they haven't been changed out that could be the issue to.
  12. Hopefully you put at least 10 pumps in from the gun. Does it make the noise when the boat isn't in gear or just when it's in gear? Yes, storing the boat with the lower unit up puts alot of stress on the gimbal. But if it's making the noise while the boat isn't in gear, I don't think the gimbal is going to be your issue. Contrary to popular belief it takes quite a bit for it to "bound up". I wouldn't be too concerned about that but if you can't pinpoint the noise, I'd have someone take a look at it before other damage occurs.
  13. Glad that fixed the problem. I have a 2004 as well and just changed my distributers, rotors and plugs. What is the temp reading on your engines? I ask this because if one is running hot it maybe time to do your exhaust manifolds and risers as well.
  14. There is a sending unit of sorts (float) in the waste tank and they get gumped up all the time and and have to be rinsed off or your waste gauge may not work properly. Additionally, I would check the electrical connections at the waste tank as well to make sure they're not corroded. I cleaned mine up with a wire brush. The trick is getting into the waste tank..I still can't get the cap off of mine and don't want to break it.
  15. Thanks just didn't know if too much lube would be an issue. But the burping as they are being used makes sense and should drop the level down.