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    Discovery Bay, CA

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  1. I have a 2006 Sig 276 that we keep in Florida so we have a boat to play with in the winter. It is stored in an indoor facility. I’m wondering if anyone knows if there is parasitic drain on the battery(s) when the battery switches are turned off such as radio memory or anything else? The facility won’t plug in a tender because it is dry rack storage and too difficult to accommodate that. From what I’ve been able to find, there may be some circuits that have parasitic drain on the house battery even with the switches turned off. I’m trying to verify this, last year between a medical event and COVID, we weren’t able to visit the boat for a year. When we finally got to the boat, the house battery was toast (battery switches were off). I replaced batteries and then right before I left I disconnected all negative cables from the house battery, used the parallel switch to be able to operate the engine hatch, and then turned the battery switches off. Came back three months later, used the parallel switch to open the hatch, reconnected the negative cables to the house battery, and all seems to be normal. I’m just not sure if my procedure actually solved something or if it was the year-long absence that killed the battery initially. Any owners out there with some input?
  2. How do you flush it? I assume you tee’d into the hose coming from the seacock and you hook a hose to the T and shut the seacock? I have a 5ecd and it has the raw water cooled fuel pump module. It really needs to be flushed because in salt water it can get buildup and clog the line after the water pump. I’ve already had to clear it once.
  3. Does your macerator still run when you push the button or is the macerator jammed?
  4. I thought most were 1.78 ratio but I could be wrong. The real key here is, are you making rated WOT rpm? If 5000 is rated and you’re getting 4700, you’re not too far off. The problem with VP Duoprops is that the props are so expensive it is costly to experiment. But I for sure think you should get better than 30kts at WOT on that boat. I had a runabout that was overpropped, it had a 21 on it. I put a 19 on it and it totally changed the boat, it freed that motor up big time.
  5. Do you have a generator with Heat/AC? Mine does and that's quite a bit of extra weight, I know with three people and full fuel I certainly don't get 28-30mph at 3,000 rpm, I get more like 26mph at 3,200 rpm and the boat wants to start burying at 3,000 rpm without tabs. Again, that's chock-full of fuel so there's a lot of weight there as well. Mines the 375 HP 8.1 V-P running F5 props.
  6. The thing that has saved arguments on the boat for us has been bluetooth earbuds for our phones (Airpods). When anchoring out, I take care of all of the anchors while my wife drives the boat. We put our earbuds in and I call her. We can speak very calmly and it's clear, no more yelling and getting excited when she can't hear me or vice-versa. When docking, I usually drive and if it's windy or a crazy docking situation I can calmly tell her things like "get a turn on a stern cleat ASAP", or "how many feet am I from the dock?" etc, etc. No need to go buy all these fancy headsets, most of us have the phone and earbuds in our pockets already. It's very rare that we boat in places with no cell coverage so it works well for us.
  7. I'll weigh in on this as well. I have 3 boats, all with different MFD/chartplotters, and I use Navionics exclusively on all of them, I don't even pay attention to the MFD anymore. Navionics covers pretty much everywhere, for instance if you subscribe to USA and Canada you can pretty much go anywhere on the continent, lakes or coasts, and have coverage. The most expensive part is the cell phone or tablet you choose to run it on, but most of us own those already. The cell phone is a little too small to be convenient but it's a great backup in an emergency. I run it on an iPad Pro. The subscription is I believe around $22 bucks or so per year. Super crisp display, constantly updated charts, auto-routing, all kinds of good stuff. I wouldn't leave home without it.
  8. ^^^^^^ Monumentally important. I was just in Florida, spent two nights on the boat at the dock with my wife and the AC ran NONSTOP. I can't even imagine trying to sleep in heat and humidity without AC. I'm not even sure I would go out on the hook in those temps even with generator and AC because the generator would have to run all night too. That's our vacation boat. Here in Northern California, our first cruiser was a Regal 292 that had no generator nor heat/AC and we were just fine, but Northern California is a temperature wimp's dream location. I still carried a Honda generator with us just in case we needed more power. As for cooking, I'm really partial to the butane burners, we have a 48' cruiser with all the amenities of home, and I still prefer to do all the cooking out in the cockpit with butane burners.
  9. I'm a little confused by your sentence...are you saying that you intend to keep it in a slip, in salt water? If that is the case and it will not be on a lift but rather, sitting in salt water, then I would be looking for a boat with an outboard or an inboard. Stern drives sitting in salt water for extended periods are a no-go in my book. They don't really even like to sit for long periods in fresh water, sitting in salt water will either require a lot of time and/or money for regular, thorough maintenance or you'll need to put some money in the bank each month in preparation for the eventual drive replacement. My 276 has a drive that is pristine, like new, about 100 hours on it and not a spec of corrosion anywhere. Then, last week I put it in the (salt) water to play with it for our vacation and let it sit in a slip for 11 days. When vacation was over, the boat was pulled and I spent some time prepping it to go back into indoor storage until our next vacation. After 11 days there was noticeable visual impact to surfaces. I polished everything up and it looks good, but I'm willing to bet that after 30 days, some of it wouldn't have polished off. Just my opinion though...
  10. Have you checked the impeller after it started heating up or only before? The only time my boat has ever heated up at idle but cools down with revs was when the impeller was starting to lose vanes.
  11. Get a GOOD mechanical survey. All boats look good on paper. My only question would be, why did a 190 hour boat need a new out drive? Perhaps it was a replacement of the XDP drive which would be a reasonable excuse.
  12. Here’s a parts diagram. You should be able to put a breaker bar on the tensioner and rotate it counterclockwise to release tension on the belt and remove it. Let the tensioner return slowly using the breaker bar as the manual advises that letting it snap back could damage it. As far as getting the belt past the raw water pump, I would pull the 4 bolts if it’s time to replace the impeller. https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744390-30-7102.aspx
  13. When you replaced the impeller, was it V-P OEM or was it aftermarket? I’ve only owned VP power trains so far (5 of them) and I’ve always changed the impellers after two years, every time the impellers looked perfect. On my very first boat, I changed it after 6 years when the temp would start climbing at idle, and it was starting to come apart. I’ve only used OEM impellers.
  14. I just went through a similar problem this week. I had two issues working at once...the drain tube was so close to the hull side that it made a little arc upward before turning downward toward the sump pump. A 90 degree elbow out of the drain pan would have been nice here. The hose had kind of taken a set so I was able to loosen the clamp and turn it on the fitting to the pan so that upward arc turned into a downward bend. The arc was lifting the hose above the pan so the condensate level would rise and start overflowing, dripping all over the mid cabin bed. Once I had that solved, I found that my sump pump was inop in the sump box. New sump pump and all is solved now. Someday when the AC needs to be replaced or repaired and must come out of its little cabinet, I will install a 90 degree fitting on the pan. Absolutely no room to get to it unless the unit comes out so for now it’s fixed well enough. if you never have any water in your sump box, there’s obviously a problem. Since you CAN gain access to the sump box, can you disconnect the drain hose from the box and check to see if it’s clear? If it’s clear and there’s no water in the sump box then it must have a crack somewhere although that sure seems unlikely. In that case perhaps you could attach a new hose to the old one and use the old hose as a “fish tape” to pull the new line through with?
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