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takeahiketour

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  1. Thank you, that's really helpful. It's a 2007 Vectra (same as a Smoker Craft / Starcraft) 2042 deckboat. If anyone knows of an hour meter that will hook up to the computer that would be great too, a lot cheaper than buying the scan tool but I have to know so I'll probably just buy it.
  2. Thank you! I actually am trying to determine how many hours are currently on the boat. No local shops with scan tool can get me in for over a month. So absent the ability to hook up an hour meter to the ECM, I'm looking at purchasing a scan tool - Rinda TechMate Pro seems to be the right one. The boat is a 2007 and the engine product number is 3869364 engine designation is: 5.0GXi-G (AQ). The Rinda Techmate Pro manual says the scanner works "with Volvo Penta EGC (Electronic Gas Control) fuel injection systems. This system was introduced on Volvo Penta gasoline marine engines for the 2006 model year." Can anyone confirm if this engine fits Rinda's description? I haven't been able to get an answer from Michigan Motorz who sells the scan tool.
  3. Is it possible to add an hour meter that will read from the ECM displaying actual current engine hours to a boat with Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI (g, 2007) that did not come with an hour meter? If so can you recommend an inexpensive hour meter that would work for this application? And install instructions? Thank you!
  4. For the issue with storing small items, there's this place Bentleys Boat Covers in Milwaukie, OR, I had them make me some vinyl pouches with elastic on the top then velcro taped them to the boat. Matched the interior so you hardly see them and great for keeping cell phones, bottle openers, wallets, etc. Very inexpensive I think they charged me like $20 total for two.
  5. Here is a copy of a post I did a while back on a solid stereo system in the $500 range: Just some quick thoughts from my recent stereo installs - this was a relatively low priced update that produced great sound. Replaced all four 6.5" with Polk Audio DB651 Marines - 60 deer per pair. Added the Kenwood 5 channel amp KAC - M8005 200 deer. Added Polk Audio marine sub 50 deer and regular car sub box 25 deer. Amp installation kit plus an extra longer 4 gauge wire for the ground 40 deer. Really easy to run the wires from the stereo to the back through the sides, I used a tent pole to pull them through. On my 2011 206 I was able to mount the amp behind the stereo so didn't even have to move the speaker wires and used really short RCA's. On the 2005 204 no spot to mount it there so had to run RCA's and additional speaker wire from the head unit to the back and mounted the amp to the sub box along side the engine. Velcro taped the subs to the floor, they hold in place just fine and easy removal come winter. Also updated the deck on the older boat to the new Kenwood marine multimedia receiver (no cd player) 90 deer. This one can take wired remotes too, but I didn't bother. There's a remote app for my iphone. Bought everything on Amazon. Slapped on some Dynamat wherever it would fit on both. Sounds amazing - under 500 total. Now, my favorite thing that I did was velcro tape a magnet to the dash by the gauges. It's very low profile. Buy one of the clip on car magnet mounts with the piece of metal that goes between your phone and your case. Now I stick my phone on the dash. It holds just fine even in rough water. It's got my stereo control, Navionics, GPS speedometer, Pandora, etc. all right there, I love it!
  6. Another option is to plug an RCA to headphone jack cable into the aux input on that Clarion, presuming you don't have the new iPhone with no headphone jack. That's what I did on mine, drilled a small hole in the plastic side of the Clarion to run the wire through.
  7. Remove the removable tongue if you have one or swing tongue at least remove the pin.
  8. I've had problems with everything getting wet everywhere from standing water in the bilge evaporating and being unable to escape as a result of the cover keeping the evaporated water in. This would cause condensation throughout the entire boat including all compartments and everything would be damp. Metal / plastic objects would be covered in condensation. Removing all the water from the bilge stopped the problem.
  9. I'd try going straight in and put it in reverse right before reaching the slip with enough gas that you just start going backwards. Then cut the wheel hard left and pull forward into the slip. That negates the wind and leaves you with a chance to correct if things go wrong.
  10. I ended up getting the rectangular hull hugger kind on clearance from Walmart for 8 each, they worked great because there's enough plastic overhang on the ends to nail them to the dock, no rope needed and they're not going anywhere.
  11. Now I understand what these things are. What's the advantage over using the cleat? I have looped paracord on my fenders, they go on in about 2 seconds and the rope's so thin there's plenty of room left to get dock tie line on the cleat as well...
  12. I still get the error "There was a problem processing the uploaded file. Please contact us for assistance."
  13. Thinking about nailing two 4’ by 8” by 8” pieces of styrofoam from my new tv to my dock where I pull in in lieu of spending a couple hundred on buoys. Only needs to last four months... thoughts? On performance, not appearance! I realize it’s tacky
  14. I don’t have any advice on doing this, but I would try to think of another solution. Yes people drill but your boat is so new and that’s such a nice Boat... Two sided tape, Velcro, rope, 3m spray glue, etc.??
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