takeahiketour

Members
  • Content count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About takeahiketour

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. I disagree with not paying over book. I bought a 2005 204 SSI in great shape that booked at 14 for 17 and sold it for 20. Best gauge I've found to for prices is searching sold listings on Ebay, if they're auctions that will be the absolute lowest price you'll get that boat for.
  2. Thanks everybody. Let me know if you're in the PDX area and need some Volvo oil lol.
  3. In my opinion book value is nearly always irrelevant. Condition is so important, NADA even states boats in exceptional condition may be worth significantly more. And a boat in poor condition could be worth nearly nothing. That's where I've found the best deals - someone listed a like new 10 year old boat for book value.
  4. Hey everybody! Got a new boat with a Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI and Alpha outdrive. My last boat had the Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI with SX outdrive and I have all the Volvo Penta brand engine oil and gear lube bought for that boat. Looking for opinions on if it's okay to use the VP oil and gear lube in the Merc. Thanks!
  5. Thanks for all the responses! Yeah I drained my own block on my Volvo GXI once, thought it had four plugs turns out there was six. That cost me $7,000. Local shops here in Portland, OR will do it under $100 so that’s definitely not something I’ll do on my own ever again and I do most of the maintenance. This Boat has a Merc V8. I guess really my question is how cold for how long does it have to be to freeze a block? I know 32 degrees exactly for a couple hours won’t do damage, but what’s the turning point?
  6. Hey everybody! Sold my last Chap at end of summer and just bought a new Boat from California to bring to Portland. It’s in a storage unit so I am taking over the unit and can transport the boat to Portland whenever I’m ready.... Looking at spring freeze charts now because the boat is not winterized... I’m hoping for people’s opinions on when it’s safe to transport the boat to Portland without winterizing... either specific dates or based on percentage chance of going below a specific temperature. For example the charts will say 10% chance of going below 28 degrees after March 16... thanks for any advice!
  7. I agree the hours are not an issue - unless you're going to use it a lot and then want to resell it. If you push it up to say 900 you're going to have a tough time finding a buyer.
  8. Removed video.
  9. Some good points! It's like after a home inspection when buying a home - you don't say there's a leak I won't buy it - you say knock $1,000 off the price. But once the seller knows you're already in it $500 or whatever for the survey he knows that unless something major is wrong you're probably going to buy the boat so I don't even know that it gets you much negotiating power. I'd take a water test over a survey any day and there's no expense and most seller's expect to be asked for it. We bought our last boat without even seeing it in person. It was from California and I'm in Portland. Much more selection and they last a lot longer down there - PNW winters are rough on boats. I found the seller trustworthy based on our conversations so decided it was worth believing him instead of spending 1,000 deer plus a day to go check it out and ended up saving that 1,000 and time because the boat was exactly as he described it. I'd recommend using your intuition as to how trustworthy the seller is and if something tells you they're not trustworthy, walk away. If they are trustworthy trust them. There may be something they may not know is wrong with the boat, but a surveyor could miss that too. Now I will say you may be stepping into a much higher price range where the rules change a bit from ~20k bowriders.
  10. Welcome! Seeing as my recent stereo upgrade post got no attention and I was very happy with it on both boats I did the install in, I'm going to shamelessly reshare it here. It sounds like you may have a bigger budget than I did for this though! Just some quick thoughts from my recent stereo installs - this was a relatively low priced update that produced great sound. Replaced all four 6.5" with Polk Audio DB651 Marines - 60 deer per pair. Added the Kenwood 5 channel amp KAC - M8005 200 deer. Added Polk Audio marine sub 50 deer and regular car sub box 25 deer. Amp installation kit plus an extra longer 4 gauge wire for the ground 40 deer. Really easy to run the wires from the stereo to the back through the sides, I used a tent pole to pull them through. On my 2011 206 I was able to mount the amp behind the stereo so didn't even have to move the speaker wires and used really short RCA's. On the 2005 204 no spot to mount it there so had to run RCA's and additional speaker wire from the head unit to the back and mounted the amp to the sub box along side the engine. Velcro taped the subs to the floor, they hold in place just fine and easy removal come winter. Also updated the deck on the older boat to the new Kenwood marine multimedia receiver (no cd player) 90 deer. This one can take wired remotes too, but I didn't bother. There's a remote app for my iphone. Bought everything on Amazon. Slapped on some Dynamat wherever it would fit on both. Sounds amazing - under 500 total. Now, my favorite thing that I did was velcro tape a magnet to the dash by the gauges. It's very low profile. Buy one of the clip on car magnet mounts with the piece of metal that goes between your phone and your case. Now I stick my phone on the dash. It holds just fine even in rough water. It's got my stereo control, Navionics, GPS speedometer, Pandora, etc. all right there, I love it!
  11. They're like auditors - they'll give you their opinion as to the condition of the boat but it is the buyer's responsibility to ensure the boat is in an acceptable condition to them. They are not liable.
  12. l use Marine Spray 9 on all vinyl and fiberglass with a microfiber cloth. On the vinyl I then follow with spraying water and microfiber cloth, and finally 404 aerospace protectant. Every other week we'll anchor in shallow water and reach under with a scouring pad to get the outside where the algae starts accumulating. Twice a summer pull out of water and clean entire hull with Marine Spray 9 which will get it looking like new then follow up with Rejex wipe on wax which makes it much easier to get the green stuff off the bottom.
  13. Lol. There is a designated storage compartment on the port side of the engine compartment accessed through the engine hatch. I realized the possibility of being unable to access that area in an emergency is much higher so going to use that for something else going forward.
  14. Thanks everyone! There has been some great advice here and also some things to look out for that I hadn't previously considered. Always so grateful for info from more experienced boaters, it's truly invaluable!
  15. What are the dangers in doing this? Is prop blowout likely to cause damage to the drive or engine? Or are people referring to the danger of someone being thrown from the boat? Or something else I'm not considering? Thanks!