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  1. From left to right, the 5 gang switch panel should be wired like this: Bilge - Horn - Nav/Anchor Light - Courtesy Lights - Accessory Bilge is single throw - It's possible that your bilge pump is so quiet you won't hear it running with the switch on, you'll have to put your hand on the pump to verify it's working (or put water in the bilge and pump it out I suppose) Horn is momentary on - self explanatory. The horn is under the dash in front of the captains chair Nav Anchor is double throw - when depressed UP, the green/red nav lights should come on, as should the mast light, if installed, at the rear and the gauge lights. when pushed down, just the gauge lights come on . Courtesy is single throw - turns on the lights down each side of the interior. Accessory is single throw - my radio is tied to this switch but I don't the factory did that originally.
  2. If your LED's are red and it's a carling switch, you need a 330 Ohm resistor in there. That resistor will have these color rings: Orange Orange Brown with a gold (5%) tolerance ring. Might be worth a try, since a resistor is only pennies.
  3. I did get a quote from Front Panel Express before I made these. That wanted over $100 for each of the panels without the back light, switches or breakers. Since I already had the CO2 laser equipment, I was able to make these panels for about $4 in materials each including the back light, minus the new switches.
  4. Thought I'd share a photo of the switch panel I did for my boat. The old panel, as you can see, is totally used up and terrible looking. The new one is an exact fit (with an extra switch too!) and the text is all backlit like what you would find in a commercial jet or fighter plane. I'm really happy with the results. I also redid the ignition switch panel the same way. they look great and fit perfectly! The horns switch looks different because it's made by a different company. In the boat, they all seem to look the same. go figure. The "new" panel next to the old panel in the photo was my first replacement, but I wanted to add another switch and the baclit text, so I made another one. I'm not sure why the Chaparral lettering looks so terrible in the photos, it's actually quite nice in person. must be the light angle or something.
  5. Guys I'm sorry I've not mailed out letters. I know it's been a very long time. Shortly after this post was put up, I lost my 22 year old daughter suddenly. Her death turned my world upside down and inside out and plunged myself and my wife into a nightmare that I would not wish on anyone. Parents aren't supposed to bury their children. But this is a boat forum, not a grief forum - so enough of that. I am just now coming to grips with this new normal and starting to pick up some tasks where they fell, including sending these letters. I will try and get the letters mailed out this week/weekend.
  6. Yep, it still rubs. I'll watch the winch strap through the season.
  7. John deer ratlle can? nope. this is the perfect opportunity to paint the trailer and get it back in line. I've seen a trailer that was painted with a hammered finish that looks good and hides a multitude of sins. of course, while I'm cutting and welding, there are a few other things on the trailer I'd like to improve.... this may be a post season project.
  8. Yes I think I can do that. I'll give it a shot this evening. Like you, I don't like how it rubs on that round steel rod. It's a fraying point for sure.
  9. I think the entire stand would have to move, not just the top plate. One of the advantages of having the roller meet the bow ring is to ensure that the boat is on the trailer the same distance every time. i.e. if the bow ring it touching the roller, it's as far on as it can go. I suppose I could set it up the same way as it sits, either placing a small vinyl sticker on the hull of the boat where the roller would sit so if the roller is on the sticker, it's in the right spot or mark the strap so that it's always deployed the same amount. my biggest concern is trailering the boat with the roller touching a spot on the bow with no reinforcement inside. The bow ring has a substantial reinforcing plate fibreglassed into the hull (at least it looks that way to me). Where the roller is now, there is no reinforcing. Do I need to worry about a big bump in the road doing damage to the boat? While I don't run around trying to hit potholes I do live in Oklahoma and our roads are just terrible. Especially around lakes. The reason I am using the strap shown to pull the nose down is to keep it from potentially losing contact with the roller only to come back down and damage the hull. It is very easy to trailer the boat only to find that the bow isn't touching the roller once it's out of the water. I have had to go back down the ramp more than once to re-position the boat. where it sits right now, the rear of the boat is perfectly aligned with the rear of the bunks, just like the original trailer. I am willing to bet that if I remove that strap right now, the nose will come up 1/8 of an inch and not be touching that roller. I'll have to test that when I get home,but I'd put money on it.
  10. I am capable of doing the work, I just want to make sure I'm not wasting my time doing something that doesn't need to be done. I'm tempted to cut it off and replace it with the bolt-on style.
  11. The boat fits the trailer well and is supported by all four bunks properly. (I rebuilt the bunks) the winch stand is fixed and welded in place, you can see in this photo that someone has added an extended tongue on the trailer. While it's nice not to have to back the truck into the water, they messed up the geometry by moving the bumper and winch - at least for my boat. They had a 22 foot bayliner on it. they black marks above the bow ring are from the original trailers bumper.
  12. Had to replace my Dorsey trailer that came with my 1830 SST due to extreme rusting. Apparently, the boat spent very little time on the trailer (It was on a hydro hoist it's whole life). So I picked up a trailer that used to be under a Four Winns. Apparently it has been modified to hold either a slightly larger boat, or a boat with it's bow ring in a much higher spot. this means that the bow bumper is very near the rub rail, about 8 inches higher than the bow ring on my boat. obviously this isn't where the bow bumper on the original trailer was. it usually sat just above the bow ring. This means that when the boat is trailered, the bow winch can actually pull UP on the boat lifting the bow off the bumper. I use a strap to ensure the bow stays seated against the bow bumper. Do I need to move the bumper/winch stand so that the bumper is back in the original spot? This would be a major job that would involved cutting the old bow bumper stand off the trailer and installing a new one that gets bolted in place. If there is no real benefit to moving it, I'd prefer not to however if leaving it as it is will do damage, I'm willing to take on the project.
  13. Both L's are gone, but I can send you a 'C' - PM me your address.
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