brclark82

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About brclark82

  • Birthday 07/08/1982

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    Central IL

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  1. I should mention it was from a pretty large dealer that would have had absolutely no problem moving the boat I ordered so that may have had something to do with it.
  2. I put $1500 down at the boat show to “reserve my production slot” who knows if that even means anything, and then another $1000 when I finalized my options about a week later and they sent in the “final build sheet”...again who knows. So $2500 total for an approx $45k boat so slightly more than 5%
  3. Sorry, it seems the issues I were remembering were regarding the vortex line specifically and not the Surf line in general
  4. I would do a search on this forum and read up, quite a few issues from what I remember, possibly some fixes but I didn't pay too close attention. I do know there is some good info already out there though
  5. You say the manual says start the engine and then switch to 1 to charge both batteries. What is selected for starting before you switch it? You generally start on 1 and then only switch to 2 when you need power and the engine isn't running then back to 1 to start again. Both would only be for low battery situations where 1 wouldn't start it by itself (which may be your current situation). I am assuming the switch is the off/1/2/both variety? How old are the batteries? Have you had the boat out and ran it for an extended period of time before you tested the batteries or was this after it had set for an extended period of time?
  6. 287 was redesigned for 2017 and has some pretty sweet finishes and tech built in. Tons of standard features too, the options list is much shorter than most boats that size. Sweet boat.
  7. Wait, they let you have a thread about something other than a center console over there? Or do you have another boat
  8. Non-gps boat speedometers work by water pressure thru a little tube. Very sporadic and essentially useless. Very very common to have issues similar to yours. Clogged input, air, etc causes issues. Either use gps speedo or go by rpm, either are better and more reliable. If its happening on a regular basis have the dealer take a look at it under warranty when you get time to let them have the boat.
  9. Funny stuff Greg Lots to learn from experience with boating for sure. Your boat surely has a depth gauge, I would keep an eye on that as opposed to charts when it gets that shallow, not uncommon at all for charts to be off by a couple feet and when your only in 3 ft that can be a big difference as you found out.
  10. Well we were anchored in a cove for about an hour or so, my 2 year old had just woken up from his nap and wanted to swim. After a while we decided it was time to head in for the day. My wife usually brings in the anchor while I make sure everything else is secure. Well she was changing the baby from swim diaper to real diaper and I wasn't paying attention since we had a long no wake ride back to the main channel. Oddly enough the anchor didn't affect the way the boat handled or speed, obviously wasn't set very well but it was a perfectly calm day with very little in the way of current on the cove. As soon as I gave it throttle once we were back in the main channel I saw the anchor locker door pop up and immediately throttled down but it was too late. Also, it is the speedo tube that was disconnected. Odd that the speedo wasn't working, found this and plugged it in, and it still isn't working. Oh well, warranty work during winterization.
  11. In this video I believe it is the part he is talking about in step 2 that runs up into the boat (that isn't actually connected in this video because the drive isn't conncted to the boat) starting at the 58 second mark but doesn't say what exactly it is for. He calls it a shifter housing piece
  12. Here re is the first pic, couldn't get it to embed correctly the first time
  13. Here is a pic of the tube https://o6pdpq-dm2305.files.1drv.com/y4m-tcruNE16xwexEFC-clvUYNjiCaSFmRFyhznpbHyGVceZ7cxzVJ4T5FFNDut2hwZrXCic6jZURpv7moaFPghn_WfKTRiGJVtIDuyVbphawycagHBps3LgPEATrHH0fV7P1kP7LNO2ZhqiNc6Z4Wf8tJBLRtFUJOph03nzEA1H685oPcYQzJR5OfjT_4YmkGpiOvh77d6E5IyvcC-wl531g?width=3024&height=4032&cropmode=none Here is where is is located on the drive (far right just above the anode)
  14. Well, I took it back out today and put another 2 hrs on it and it ran fine. Idle no problem, in and out of gear many times no problem, cruising speed, maxed out, no wake speed, all no problem. GPS speeds and rpms lined up. Temps and oil pressures all the same as normal (as they were yesterday as well) I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed that I escaped anything too terrible. On the other hand, my speedo still doesn't work (I have tried cleaning the pitot) so I have no idea what I plugged back in. I'll try to get a pic later and see if someone can educate me.
  15. Temps were fine, never even close to overheat. If it wasn't for the second shutdown I wouldnt even think twice about it. I've done similar before and worst case scenario needed a new hub but it seems everything is fine.