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About Roady68

  • Birthday 07/28/1968

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  • Gender
  • Location
    East Aurora, NY
  • Interests
    60s Muscle cars, motorcycles, fire arms and boating.

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  1. Thanks. I am still 6 to 8 years away from changing. I figure our Sig 300 will need some major work in the next few years. I'll do that, enjoy it for a while then upgrade. Right now the wife is not interested in upgrading. But I was curious about fly bridges as they seem to pop up a lot more in larger boats. So I was looking for advantages.
  2. As an engineer, I take a lot of those comments with a grain of salt. I did a lot of reading up on synthetics and I am huge fan. Consistent molecular chain properties seam to be a huge benefit and allows us to run longer periods between changes in our cars. For the boat, I will keep to the once in the fall.
  3. OK, so the boat is away for the winter. I had to put it away a few weeks ago as I was on travel for work most of this month. Who would have thought the weekends in October were better than weekends in August. But I digress. So to get my fill, I have been watching videos and looking at Boat and Yacht trader (dangerous, I know). Our next move once our daughter gets through college (in about 7 years) will be to a coupe type (Sea Ray 350 Coupe, Azimut etc, or Chaparral Coupe if they come out with one very soon so I can buy it used down the road) something in 35-40 foot range. May happen sooner if things work out, but that is the long term plan. So I see several offerings with fly bridges. There are a few boats with flybridges on our dock too. I never asked what the advantage is. I think being up high is advantageous, but does it add top weight? I am more into getting up on plane and cruising from location to location, or towing a tube too. Would a flybridge be slower (more weight up high again)? Are the dual controls a pain to maintain? More space for entertaining? I'm not sure. I was just wondering if there is anyone here that had one or know people who have one that can confirm or add to my guesses.
  4. I have a huge list of things to do. Unfortunately I decided to go with indoor storage on a rack so I will have no access to the boat. I had a list of about 50 items last year when we purchased it. About 30 of those got done (all safety issues or where boat needed to be out of water is where we focused our attention). The remaining were mostly cosmetic things. But after this season, I have added about 10 items to the list. But I can buy parts and tools to get ready. Items that will be purchased this winter include: new anodes, new VHF radio, new lower shift cable and a below kits. Plus any tools I will need to install the above parts. I sort of regret not doing outdoor storage with shrink wrap and an access door. Sometimes we get some mild winter days that allow me to work outside on the boat. Oh well.
  5. Most sinks go overboard. There used to be diagrams in the owners manual on what all the through hulls were for. The shower on ours goes into a sump, then out over board. We use biodegradable soaps we found online.
  6. Sometimes thinking outside of the box works. I found it very easy to get access to rear of my starboard engine by removing the batteries. When I get to the work on the port, I will empty and pull out my water tank. Between the engines is tight. I do the plugs and wires by feel. You may have luck laying sideways in and around the engine. But I am a small guy, so YMMV.
  7. I always take a look every time we get on the boat. It is a pain in the rear to pull the table, stow the rear bench and pull the deck panels, but it is necessary. I take a flashlight and look into the dark corners too. I look at all fluid levels, (trim, drive, oil and the water and holding tank), look for any leaks, and just make sure nothing is loose or about to come loose. I recently caught a battery connection loosening up and found my holding tank level indicator doesn't work. Knowing the sounds, feel and even smell are important in my opinion. I have even taught my daughter to go through the check list with me when we first get on board. I also do all my own repairs. We had a sea water pump fail a couple of weeks ago. A bunch of guys at the dock were heading out but we were stuck for the day. I ordered the parts and swapped it out during the week. When chatting the the guys on the dock the following week, they were surprised to see we were all set. I had it fixed in a few hours, at about a quarter of the costs to have the marina shop do it. So I am in agreement with you. I was surprised to see how many folks on the docks really don't know how to work on or troubleshoot their own boats.
  8. x2 Tough I found local Marina store to have some good prices too. But in general, I order everything on line unless I absolutely need it immediately.
  9. Before we put our boat into the water this season, I noticed a few drops of oil on the ground under the drive. I found one of the hoses to the trim/lift cylinders had a small leak. It wouldn't take but a drop to make the sheen you are seeing.
  10. Ohh, good idea. I didn't even think of that.
  11. I may pull my drives for painting this winter. Once my boat is in storage it will be inaccessible. So my plan is to pull the drives before they stick it up on the rack. But I don't like the idea of the back of the gimble housing open all winter. At the least, airborne dust and dirt, worse, birds make a nest, are some of my concerns. Does anyone have a source for covers I can bolt on? Or a template I can make some covers? Or am I worried about nothing?
  12. We have taken our Sig 300 into the lake on some breezy days. The US shore side seems to get more waves kicked up and its been a bit rough on occasion, but nothing I was too worried. My wife thought it was a bit much. We don't go out when there are small boat advisories though. We also don't go far out. Just enough to get down to the southern tier then we circle back up into Buffalo River.
  13. It is also possible its just the pressure switch on the pump. IIRC, on my water pump the switch is removable (make sure you isolate the water inlet). Also, check the obvious, the circuit breaker, power to switch, etc.
  14. I have 5.7 Mercruisers with B3 drives. I have a sea water pump off the front of the engine that feeds the engine. We were out on the water yesterday and I started to hear a squealing from the port engine. A quick glance at the gauges and I noticed the temp rising quick. Just as I reached down to start throttling down the alarm went off on what I am assuming is high temperature. About then the squealing stopped and I shut down the engine. A quick check and the following was discovered. Belt was shredded, and some water was dripping out the back of the pulley on the pump. An impeller kit was installed in the spring. I tried to rotate the pulley on the pump and its frozen solid. I am thinking I took a seal and bearing out of the front part of the pump. I am thinking of buying a whole pump as this is the last week with the boat. Weather is supposed to be nice and we would like to get out a few more times before it goes into winter storage at the end of the month. Some questions. If I buy the whole pump, is the one I remove rebuild-able? Can bearings and seals be replaced on the drive end? I'll look through the mercruiser manual later today. I wish I could shell out the deer for that stainless pump. But that isn't in the cards for this year.
  15. I am wondering if you could dry them out. Maybe put gauge in a large ziplock with dry uncooked rice. Similar to the wet phone fix (which does work, btw). Or drill a small (1/4") hole in back of gauge housing to get dry air to circulate. Or maybe find a welding supply place that could purge out gauge with some dry nitrogen. Then add a couple of small rubber plugs to the holes. Could be worth a shot instead of replacing gauge.