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Roady68

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About Roady68

  • Birthday 07/28/1968

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    t_crowe_rr@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Aurora, NY
  • Interests
    60s Muscle cars, motorcycles, fire arms and boating.

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  1. Our marina called. My boat is pulled from storage building and sitting on the hard for some much needed repair and maintenance. The store is closed at the Marina and new boat purchases is by appointment only. The yard they said is open since the work is spread out. I will probably go work on the boat this weekend. I can keep to myself and the boat is out of the way so shouldn't have any contact with people. I need to get out in the nice weather. I do not like being cooped up in the house. The garage projects have been great distraction, but its boating season soon.
  2. Marina called me yesterday and asked if I wanted to come out early. They know I have a ton of work to do. They said the store is closed due to COVId-19, and boat sales by appointment only. But the yard guys working as usual. So this Friday afternoon I will go take a look at and start forming a game plan for the work.
  3. Just added one to my in box too.
  4. Lets look at it another way. There are only a couple of sources of water. First, the body of water your boat is slipped in. Sources of water intrusion could be seal around a transducer, transom seal on out drive, inlet for cooling, inlet for head, rain or hose from washing boat. Note that rain, or washing the boat may have a delay from time of rain event to when you see water as it water may be traveling down and around various structures in the boat. Can you correlate the water with any rain events? That is, if it rains, you have high probability of water? Same with washing the boat. Is there water in the aft bilge that could be making its way up front? I think we can think through this and help identify the issue. I'll look at the parts diagram to see if I can come up with some ideas.
  5. At least Amazon has stepped up and has been pulling product sold to cure corona-virus. A lot of misinformation out there. Never hurts to double check your sources. Good journalist used to do that before the internet. Now we have sensationalism writers.
  6. Its false information. Sorry. Corona-virus does not create fibrosis on the lungs. And holding your breath is not a valid test for any lung related illness.
  7. I need one too. I did some preliminary work but forgot what I had found. I think RV places may carry awning track. I also found this, but the boat is in storage so I am not sure of the dimensions. https://www.sailrite.com/Flex-A-Rail-White-90?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkfTp7pGE6AIVDFYMCh1XQAagEAQYAiABEgJqOPD_BwE
  8. http://www.chaparralboats.com/publications/uploaded_files/188/2005.pdf There is a section for your boat. We do not have a generator on our Sig 300. Boat has just about every other option, but no generator. Go figure. Anyway, as mentioned above, there is a procedure, pretty easy.
  9. Means that it will not be an ignition source in a hydrocarbon atmosphere. Its the marine designation for intrinsically safe electrical devices to be used in engine bays or other areas where fuel fumes can congregate.
  10. Well, here is my take. I can say I am pretty close to the subject as I am involved in three projects for our company around H2 and have done a couple of projects related to fuel cells. I completed a product safety report for H2 filling stations to fill H2 fuel cell vehicles (FCEVs). Based on the design of a couple of the leaders in the design and fabrication of fueling station (i.e. the gas pump in conventional gasoline stations) there is about equal risk with H2 and gasoline. Hydrogen is pretty interesting gas, it burns clear, so difficult to see flames. Its not uncommon to see burnt birds that fly through vent stacks that are venting H2. I actually prefer to work with H2 versus gaseous oxygen. But H2 is lighter than air and disperses fairly quickly. I would say it may possibly be safer than gasoline in a boat engine bay as it would naturally draft out the vents. Also H2 filling stations have a lot of interlocks that prevent flow of H2 unless the connection is safe. So, given it could be higher risk than gasoline, there are usually additional safe guards that bring the safety in line or better than gasoline. With that said, I am aware of one incident where a person was severally burned on his leg when either the fuel cell tank had a problem or a line on the cell let go. It wasn't in our scope of equipment so we were not involved much in the root cause analysis. FCEVs use high pressure storage tanks, running about 2500 psi. There are projects in the works (wink wink) to raise the pressure to 5000 psig or more. This will require additional work to increase delivery pressures as most gaseous H2 is delivered through use of tube trailers. There are some installations that we deliver liquid to and use reciprocating high pressure pumps to get up to 7500 or so psig. This work will double delivery and on board storage reducing the costs and bringing it more in line with gasoline, well, at least in southern california priced gas market. So part of the new hydrogen economy (new for the last 15 years, lol) is the source of H2. Most H2 is what industry is calling brown hydrogen. Formed from steam methane reforming, this is the most common production method. Pure green H2 is made from renewable energy methods. Either hydro power or solar used on electrolysis equipment. Then there is what I think we are calling blue H2 which is using conventional power source (i.e. coal or natural gas power), but using methane generated from land fills or chemical tail gas (ammonia is a tail gas in manufacturing some chemicals). Current H2 production capacity can handle growth. But if the market grows even part of what folks say, we will need additional production capacity. Current green H2 costs almost twice as much as brown H2. The system on this yacht will require some compression equipment to raise pressure up for fuel cells. There is a lot of Net Evaporation Rate (NER) from liquid storage. Even with super insulation, its about 5%. So I am guessing this off gas will be used for gas fired power unit for electrical generation to run compression equipment. Maybe, I don't know for sure. I would like to see the system design. I can't comment on the yacht design, its different, but not my cup of tea.
  11. Repairs went well. Three years enjoying the boat. This spring will be all the usual maintenance items plus new upper and lower cables. I may cut out the center pedestal and rebuild that. Had some moisture in it last time I took readings. It didn't help that the marina left a hose clamp off cooler at back of engine that flooded bilge before I figured it out. I figure I have the time this spring, might as well replace that too. Then only wood left will be transom and port stringer.
  12. Welcome back. I never did finish adding pics of my stringer replacement on iBoats. Got a new computer and not sure I have all the pictures anymore. Your rebuild was inspirational. The 2335 is a nice boat. Its sort of what we were looking for until we realized we could go bigger. Good luck.
  13. Good point. Never thought to ask that first. Maybe worth while to pull one of the refrigerators out and check.
  14. There is no inline fuse. The bus bar is fed off the main 50A breaker that is located in the little door by the isolation switches at the transom. The 50A breaker is fed from the Port battery as isolation switch. If you have cabin lights, your VHF radio works, and the head fan and lights work, then you have power up to the terminal strip. Its possible that you have a loose connection on the positive side of the fuse block. You will need a test light or multimeter to verify. If you have power on both sides of the fuse, then your problem is between the fuse block and the refrigerators. Caveat is I am assuming no one has screwed with your wiring between the fuse block and the refrigerators.
  15. I have a wiring diagram for a 1999 Sig 300. I believe the boats are the same up until 2003 or 2004. Anyway, according the diagram, there is a 12V feed from the main terminal strip on the helm fuse block to the refrigerator. The fuse block is under the dash panel assembly beneath the steering wheel. Lay on your back under the helm and look up and you will see it mounted on the bulkhead. I'd check the fuse there and use a multimeter or test light to make sure you have 12V. Its pretty cramped under there and so I use a small multimeter with short probes. The power to the refrigerator is Red with Green tracer. The other side of the bus is 12V from main breaker that is back in the transom box. Since your cabin lights, VHF, spot light and such are working, I am guessing that its the fuse. Well, I assume they are working since you didn't mention them.
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