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About Roady68

  • Birthday 07/28/1968

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  • Gender
  • Location
    East Aurora, NY
  • Interests
    60s Muscle cars, motorcycles, fire arms and boating.

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  1. Possible knock sensor? At end of season when water is warmer around here, I will get knock sensor alarm at WOT. Temps are good, and oil pressure go, but still get an alarm. I used scan tool to tell me what the alarm was.
  2. Most boats are still using wood. A few high end use phenolic resin and composites (Coosa Board) or foam filled all fiberglass structural grid. But from what I can see in a lot of the factory tours that are on YouTube, wood is still the go to material.
  3. Yep. I would bet you will find some wet wood when you pull the drill bit out. Been there, done that, have the t-shirt. Hard to believe its been 3 years. I never updated the iBoats thread. I did loose some pictures on an old hard drive when it crashed but have some I should post. I am very happy with my repair. Chaparral used some good wood that resists rotting even when wet. However, the cracking you are seeing is the weight bearing down on the mount. The wood is getting soft and squishing down from engine weight. This block is made up of several layers of plywood. The bottom most layer or two will have the majority of damage and wetness. So get a 90 degree drill head so you can drill closest to hull.
  4. So I have my out drive off the port side to do bellows and and new lower shift cable. I decided to replace the gimbal bearing. I have two alignment bars. One is slightly undersized by 5 thousandths (machine shop guy couldn't read my crappy writing, it was a "government project" so just accepted it). The other is a purchased tool which appears to be 1.01" that its supposed to. Anyway. The spec bar slides in almost all the way, gets tight about 1.25" in. The under size bar slides all the way in. But when I pull out there is grease trails from the spline at 90 deg, but no contact at 270 deg. I am thinking the engine appears to be OK up down, but front off to starboard side slightly. It appears that adjusting alignment from side to side isn't very easy. I dropped in battery and will rotate engine to make sure its indeed off. Whats easiest way to shift front of engine horizontally?
  5. The 265 is nice. That was our target before getting the bright idea to go big with a Sig 300.
  6. We added the name in 3.5" letters along the top of the fender cut outs. We have a 2000 Sig 300 love the layout and size too.
  7. Its crazy. Accounting for inflation alone, that $40k boat should be about $60 today. Now, some improvements in technology may drive costs up a bit more. And environmental concerns has driven materials costs up. If that adds another 50% of costs (doubt it, that is a big adjustment, but possible), then you are starting to approach six figures. So maybe $120k is not realistic, but $90k for same boat could seem reasonable.
  8. The more we think about it, may actually buy a house in Puerto Rico and keep out Sig 300 to come home and visit in the summer and stay on the boat. I think we can fly back and forth for on a regular basis versus buying enough boat to island hop to Florida and take it up the ICW.
  9. Yep. Go roller if you can. My other hobby is late 60s muscle cars. I have a failed flat tappet lifter on the wall of shame from improper break in. Last motor I built I still used flat tappets but had a micro bored hole in the face to supply additional oil supply. I'm into Plymouth/Dodges, so options for roller lifters is a bit more sparse compared to GM based engines (and you think boating is an expensive hobby, ha). Then I use lots of break in lube (I use old school moly lube for lifters), high zinc oil and proper run in. But don't fall for the "diesel oil" myth. You want a high ZDDP oil that has high compression resistance (I think that's the term, I'd have to bring out my notes). I built a run in stand to run the engine in the garage before installing it. If using roller lifters forget the above and follow decent break in procedure.
  10. The tag has transom serial number only. Like someone at the factory wasn't interested in stamping the engine number and drive number. I got the engine numbers off the tags down by the starter. Mercruiser 5.7s.
  11. Is there any way to identify the drive ratio on my Sig 300. There are several coats of pain on the out drive. I sanded some of it off, but cant really read any numbers. I was wanting to replace the lower drive, but due to quarantine the guy who would order it for me can't open his shop. I have the drive in the garage. Is it as simple as rotating the input shaft and counting rotation prop rotations? I have engine and transom assembly serial numbers if that helps.
  12. Battery to battery is simpler yes. But I have two pumps, three batteries. The issue with battery to battery is if you have a battery go bad, and its the rear bilge, and say you have slow leak in drain plug or small crack in bellows that developed while you are slipped, you have no backup. With the diode set up you have power from two other batteries. Or, and this happened to me, I had my battery charger start acting up. It would randomly drop voltage on two of the batteries randomly. It was not charging all three and would sometimes charge the house, or then the port. Turns out there was a dead logic board (according to the troublshooting I did, love you tube) and would only output occasionally on each circuit. I hadn't noticed right away as we were taking the boat out several times so engines were charging batteries. I then busted my shoulder and couldn't operate the throttles so just hung out. After a couple of weeks, we went and stayed on the boat. The second night the CO detector was beeping on low voltage. Found that the batteries weren't charging. If we had decided not hang out on the boat, it would have been more weeks before I would have noticed. If, and now we are talking double failures, I had a leak somewhere, then I am sure bilges would have drained the only battery it was hooked up to, if hooked up as you would. BTW, the charger issue drove me nuts. Wasn't fun crouched down in engine bay trying to use mutlimeter with broken shoulder. Then to have issue be random. I just replaced the charger. And as I was looking at new chargers, I said, hey, I will up the amperage. The wring from the charger to the battery switches and to batteries was right gauge. But if you look at the manual, you realize the charger can draw close to 20 amps. Again wiring was ok. But the breaker was a 15 amp. So went with smaller draw unit. You can find the manuals for the ProMariner chargers on line before you buy them. So yes, you can simplify, but if you have the parts on hand why not add a level of redundancy?
  13. On my Sig 300, there are three feeds, one from Port switch, and two from STBD swtich (but two different posts). Each of these come to a common point that feeds both fuses for the bilge pumps. So in theory, the bilges have access to power from all three batteries (prt, stdb and house). But all three batteries are isolated from each other from the small diodes. If a battery should go low, say the house, from other loads, the diodes would prevent the current from going through the good strong engine batteries to the low battery. On my diagram, the band is towards the pumps. It looks like its the same in the photo above. The hot wire from the alternator (A1) feeds both batteries. From the isolator, the hots go to switches and on my boat, the diodes are off the switches. But electrically, they look the same in the original posters photos.
  14. If I recall, the two small diodes you see are for the constant powered bilge pump feeds. Same principle as the isolator, only allow current to bilge pumps, not drain battery to battery. Just a note on going larger with charger, look through the manuals online and understanding the total wiring loads to the charger too. The total load that the charger can draw will be given and you want to make sure that the circuit feeding the charger is adequate. The breaker may be too small.
  15. I have the mercruiser adjustment tools. I agree, adjusting was hardest part of the lower.
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