TXTWIN

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About TXTWIN

  • Birthday 03/30/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Round Rock, TX
  • Interests
    Boating, travel, technology, cars, friends.

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  1. Thanks Wingnut. Do I have to pull the water pump on a VP engine to get to the crankshaft pulley? If it is water in the engine, next steps are what?
  2. there isnt any water in the oil, and the boat does get used. Its a cruiser on a lake, so its not like your going all day long. During the season, its used every weekend. Do I have to take the water pump off in order to turn it over by hand?
  3. ignore - quadruple post.
  4. Yeah, it doesn't sound good. I don't know that I want to keep trying to turn it over mechanically. Its not a great sound. Come on out. You pay for the gas, I will take care of the boat payment.
  5. I need some help from the smart guys. I repowered my 330 2 seasons ago after losing both blocks to freezing temps (long story). Anyhow, they have run great for 2 seasons, until last weekend. Went out to the boat to clean it up and get ready for the season, and the PORT engine is making a metal on metal clunking noise when trying to turn it over. The starter stops immediately after the noise. Is this the starter dying, or do I have a stuck valve that is colliding with a piston? The oil is clean, no metal in it. The boat ran ok a few weeks ago, except that both engines ran warm last time I started it. I figured this was due to the zebra mussels that are 2" thick all over the legs, as the impellers look brand new. There was also a lot of thin white smoke, but that seemed to stop after a few minutes. Any ideas? Its not under warranty, but if its a busted internal component, you can bet I will call Jasper to see what they can do. There isn't more than 30 hours on these blocks.
  6. I need some help from the smart guys. I repowered my 330 2 seasons ago after losing both blocks to freezing temps (long story). Anyhow, they have run great for 2 seasons, until last weekend. Went out to the boat to clean it up and get ready for the season, and the PORT engine is making a metal on metal clunking noise when trying to turn it over. The starter stops immediately after the noise. Is this the starter dying, or do I have a stuck valve that is colliding with a piston? The oil is clean, no metal in it. The boat ran ok a few weeks ago, except that both engines ran warm last time I started it. I figured this was due to the zebra mussels that are 2" thick all over the legs, as the impellers look brand new. There was also a lot of thin white smoke, but that seemed to stop after a few minutes. Any ideas? Its not under warranty, but if its a busted internal component, you can bet I will call Jasper to see what they can do. There isn't more than 30 hours on these blocks.
  7. You can get just the switch covers (toggling part of the switch) from Joe, save you money and time redoing all those switches. A small screwdriver, and they just clip on and off. I've done it with a few on mine, the covers are a couple bucks.
  8. Good looking boat. Like the color. One thing, don't sell yourself short. I don't think a 224 is nearly the smallest boat on the forum. When your done, you want to come and clean mine? I was up there a few weekends ago, and she really needs a spa day (weekend?)!
  9. Our Sea Ray has what I assume is an auto antenna that plugs into the back of the radio, and then the antenna is left in the void of the bow behind the seats up there. Don't realize its even there. On the Chap, we use Pandora or another streaming app a majority of the time on the lake. Phone gets plugged into the boat, and stays fully charged while we hang out in the water listening to tunes with a cold beverage. You can get an adapter from Walmart for under 20 deer to physically plug in your phone if you don't have bluetooth.
  10. you can also search for boat cover repair parts. that rail is used for the webbed pippng on your covers. buy it by the foot, and its cheap by boat standards
  11. glad you fixed. my raymarine has its own transducer mounted betwwen the drives. my factory one only does depth. didnt drill too many new holes, but had to fill with 5200
  12. my SUP has attachment points for Kayak seats and accesories. never used them, but they are there. its inflatable and siting down its pretty stable. good luck in the search.
  13. If your going to set up one battery as a house battery for floating, dont forget to actually move the appropriate components over to that battery (including your stern light if you frequently float into the night. Otherwise, your not really protecting yourself from a dead battery. I used 1 guage when I added the 2nd battery, and a Perko switch that did 1, 2, ALL. It also allows charging of both batteries while cruising. Its been in place for over 10 years with 0 issues.
  14. I had to put a new transducer on 2 years ago when mine stopped doing anything beneficial. It would give crazy readings, and stop showing anything under the boat when moving. It would also say the water temp was in the 150+ degree range which it clearly wasnt (even during a Texas summer). Wasnt too difficult to replace, but obviously the boat had to be pulled. I had a Raymarine one, and got a replacement that did the temp/speed/depth/bottom profile. Took a couple hours to run the wire from the helm to the stern and replace the 5200... If your going to be doing that, might think about adding underwater lights if you don't already have them (and want them). Your going to be running all the wires and putting holes in the boat already.
  15. Been awhile, but we used to have this problem on our first ski boat. We had to change the technique of how you pull the skier. In order to get a larger skier up behind that boat, we would drag them a little to get momentum and then hit the throttle to pull them up out of the water. Move the weight to the front of the boat to help it get on plane quicker. Just a thought. Good luck solving the problem (or boat shopping)