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Jerry Chadwell

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  1. Thanks. That's what I do already with the Bimini. The place we purchased the boat from said to leave the covers off when towing but I've since seen others on the highway being towed with them on. I'm going to give that a try. My cushions move around a little with it open and I'd rather not have to pack them in the truck or lose one going down the road...
  2. Thanks! Going to leave plugged in going forward. I'll also try keeping it covered next season as well.
  3. Thanks cyclops. Not sure I understand your response though. My foot never comes off the brake when backing the trailer down the ramp. And what are night lights in this context? The first few times, I've disconnected the lights (got that advice from another boater) but my parking sensors beep at me all the way down the ramp. I can turn them off but the option is buried three or four submenus deep and takes several minutes to find. The last trip, I forgot to unplug the trailer lights and the silent trip down the ramp was much appreciated. Everything still works even after being submerged while connected. Hence my question. I'd prefer to leave everything connected as long as the light housings being submerged while on won't be a problem.
  4. Should I disconnect the trailer lights when putting the boat in the water? Do you tow with the tonneau cover on or off? Thanks in advance
  5. The fuel filter is very easy, just a pleated unit the drops in place. It's the water separating filter unit that I'm not familiar with. And it's all the way down on the bottom left side of the engine so I can't get a close up look at it. Any pointers/advice/directions would be appreciated!
  6. Ok, now you made me change my mind... I have all the necessary equipment and 4-5 gallons of RV antifreeze is very inexpensive insurance. I had also already planned to change the oil and and lube everything the manual mentions. It's been three seasons and something like 120 hours so I figured it's time. I do still have the owners manual but thanks for asking! I'm a life-long gearhead so none of this will be difficult. However, it's always been cars I've worked on and modified. This is our first boat. The open cooling system/single point drain was a new one for me but it's straightforward. The other piece I've not encountered before is the water separating fuel filter. Can you give me some quick and dirty advice there. How often to change and how to change? And anything to be careful of? I'll have to check the manual again but I thought it was a 100 hour item? I didn't look closely though because I was trying to figure out the flush/fill process first. Thanks again for all the responses everyone.
  7. Thanks for the input everyone. I've decided to go with just the drain. However, I'm going to collect the water in a five gallon bucket to make sure there are no clogs. Thanks again!
  8. First post and need some advice please. We've kept our boat at a storage facility for the last three years and they always did the year end winterization for us when putting the boat away. We purchased a new home this year and are now able to store it ourselves. Consequently, I'm doing the winterizing. Here's where I need some advice. Everything I've found on YouTube makes it look like I need to flush and fill the system with an RV antifreeze solution but the owners manual talks about the single point drain system and it seems simply removing the plugs and opening the valve will drain all the water out. No water = no freeze risks/damage. Is it that simple? Will any water be trapped anywhere if the engine isn't brought up to operating temp to open the thermostat first. Thanks in advance for the help!
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