Wolfsong

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About Wolfsong

  • Birthday January 11

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  • Website URL
    wolfsongaudio.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dawsonville, Ga on Lake Lanier
  • Interests
    Fishing, Boating, High End Audio
  1. BT Doctur, Thanks for the reply. I down loaded the manual and found that the batteries and charger were in fact wired as they had been at the factory. The starting issue was my lack of experience with the divided shift and throttle control system. The manual does state that the battery switches should be set to OFF when docked and connected to shore power. It also states that the switches should not be set to ALL. The difference I guess is that the factory wiring scheme has all 3 Negs in series then on to the engines also in series.
  2. Problem has been solved! I hope! After load testing all 3 batteries again and finding the same results I finally started looking at other possible issues. Since I am new ( 3 weeks + in ) to the boat, I looked at my start procedure and my "end of the day" procedure. Guess what? "end of the day" did not include one crucial step.................................................. Put BOTH gear controls in dead neutral position. DUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! El boato no trabajar when gear shift not in neutral! Since we have a real tight fit in the slip I have been bumping the gear controls in and out when docking and almost always use the port side bump last to correct bow position once in the slip. Leaving the port gear control just in the forward position. Motor will not turn over. Crank starboard and in backing out of the slip I naturally slipped both gear controls to the same position ( actual neutral ) and then once out of the cove I hit the key to the port motor and vroom vroom! Lots of trouble shooting in the wrong direction but at least I learned something!
  3. Starbrite Extreme clean for regular dirt and marks. Stabrite Mold Stain Remover for well...........Mold Stains Keep away from stitching and use a cloth flooded with clean water to rinse off all surfaces this stuff touches. 303 Aerospace protectant after all cleaning is done.
  4. Got it. I did use a cool new tool on the existing batteries just now. Solar BA 9 Load and Charge Battery tester. All 3 batteries show a 04/16 date code. 2 are 625 CCA M 24-1 series and one is a 1000 CCA M 24-3 series. The 1000 CCA tested at 905 CCA and 88 % Life. One 625 CCA tested at 595 CCA and 94% life the other was 585 CCA and 93 % life so it looks like the issue was just me using the wrong settings on the switches. I do still wonder if the House battery should be a deep cycle?
  5. Jjlai724, once again you are the man! Battery configuration seems to be right in line with the manual! We just got bad advice from 2 sources as to the proper battery switch positions for starting and when hooked to shore power . I do have one starting battery that seems to be less capable at holding a charge so I replaced it and will look into an AGM style for the house battery as long as my charger will handle an AGM style battery.
  6. Pasted image not showing up. Upload is failing.
  7. Here is a configuration schematic I found that seems to be the correct wiring for the above configuration. If so, should battery 3 be a deep cycle?b
  8. Ok, I have read back in the forum posts about multiple battery configurations and have a question based on our experience with a "dead" battery. 1999 2835 SE 2 350 Mag motors 3 12V cranking batteries ( Auto Nation brand and yes they are labeled "Starting Marine") 2 Perko switches with 4 settings. Each has 1, 2, All and Off settings Flyback 10-3 3 bank ( assumption based on model # and the 3 hot leads from it ) battery charger powered via shore power. Switch positions and results: Left switch set to Off Right switch set to 1: Starboard motor cranks. Port motor will not. House ( lights, stereo etc. ) has no power Left switch set to Off Right switch set to 2: Starboard motor cranks. Port motor will not. House ( lights, stereo etc. ) has no power Left switch set to Off Right switch set to All: Starboard motor cranks. Port motor will not. House ( lights, stereo etc. ) has no power Right switch set to 1 Left set to 1,2, All Port motor cranks, Starboard motor cranks, House has power Right switch set to 2 Left set to 1,2, All Port motor cranks, Starboard motor cranks, House has power Right switch set to All Left set to 1,2, All Port motor cranks, Starboard motor cranks, House has power Based on the above information and the photos. It looks to me like the far right battery is only connected to the starboard motor and the charger. The other 2 batteries are connected to each other via the negative terminals ( forming a 24v system?) and each is connected to a single bank on the charger. The mono amp for the subwoofer is connected to the far left battery. All other 12v circuits are connected via the switch bank at the helm. We were instructed to switch both Perko switches to All at all times. On 2 recent occasions the port motor has failed to turn over. First time we left the boat in the slip for 3 days and accidentally left the shore power switch set to Off. Perko switches set to All. The 'fridge runs on 12v and 120v so it was on in 12v mode for 3 days. Port motor would not crank. House had power. Starboard motor was a bit sluggish to crank but did start. We turned off the starboard motor and turned on the Shore power with battery charge set to on. Waited 10 min and still no port motor. Left the dock under starboard motor power and headed out. 10 minutes later I was able to crank the port motor. Both ran fine on a short dinner cruise and all was well. Next AM after being connected to shore power with battery charger on , both motors crank no worries. Ran close to 30 miles on Lake Lanier no cranking issues with 1 short power down. That afternoon we did short a dinner cruise, anchored, played tunes, turned on lights hung out for about 90 minutes. Both switches set to All. After hang out time, port motor will not crank. House has power. Crank starboard, run 10 minutes, port motor cranks. In both instances the port battery gauge shows just under 13v while it will not crank the port motor. After the 10 min on the starboard motor the port will crank and the gauge shows 13.5V. So.................... Since one of the batteries in the 24v ( ? not sure of this ) pairing seems to be to run the House, should it not be a Deep Cycle instead of a Starting battery? If the far right battery only starts the starboard motor and has no effect on the port motor starting or the house, how can running the starboard motor for 10 minutes allow the port motor to crank? Which battery is not holding charge and therefore killing the port motor but allowing the house to have power? How long should we be able to sit at anchor with the 'fridge, stereo, and some lights running before the house is drained and why does that also drain the port starting battery?
  9. Ksupaul, I did not do a video but did just replace an impeller on one of our 350 Mag MPI motors. I had never done an impeller and the marine service parts store guys were a big help. I did end up replacing the impeller housing and the impeller itself. Our 350s have the plastic impeller housing and the failure caused a crack in the housing. 2 9/16 bolts hold the entire assembly in place via a bracket. Be sure to mark the top and bottom hoses before you remove them. On ours the top was the outflow and bottom was inflow. If the boat is in the water when you do the work, be sure to have a plug ready for the intake hose. I used a 3" long section of 1" ID PVC with a cap glued on. Fit right inside the hose and stopped the water from coming in while I worked. Getting the new impeller into the new housing was a PITA until I inserted the keyed shaft from the pulley assembly and rotated the impeller with the pulley as it went in the housing. Overall I am guessing it was a 40 minute job. Not bad considering I had never done one. Next time I am guessing it can be done in 30 minutes.
  10. We are the new owners of a 1999 2835 SE with twin Mercury 350 Mag MPI to Bravo 3 duo props. Having never driven a 7200 lbs ( dry ) boat with a single engine I can not comment on how well a single 496 would power the 285 hull ( same as 2835 ). I can however relate that the twin motors with divided throttle and gear controls make turns at idle a breeze. Our last boat was s 20 foot Regal Destiny 200 with a single 305 and Volvo SX single prop drive. The 2835 is more than twice the weight and is 8'6" longer with a 9" wider beam and it handles twice as nice. Tighter turns at the dock, easier to correct for wind, wake and current. It is also easier to bump in reverse to slow momentum before anchoring. Another plus mentioned earlier is the fact that 2 motors are really unlikely to fail at the same time. We had our new ride surveyed, wet test and motor compression checked before we bought. 6 days later one of the impellers does its Kerry King impression and SHREDS! Locked up the serpentine belt and therefore the motor. Port motor was fine and got us home. With a 9'3" beam the twin 350s are a bit tight to work on but "most" wear or maintenance items are on the fronts and or tops of the motors. Steering system is a son of a beeswax to get to though. 143 gallon gas tank gets empty too fast but hey, if the gas money is what holds you back on boat buy then look to a different hobby
  11. Jjlai724 . Sounds beautiful. How long ago was it done? Do you have any issues with wear or sunburn on the material?
  12. Jjlai724, So I guess I should contact sea deck direct instead of a local dealer? When did you have the template made? Having that already done is awesome!
  13. We saw the photos of another 2835 with their platform and the form fitting underside is what sold me. it does look factory and lie it will last as long as the hull.
  14. swhite7007, Do you mind sharing how many deer that Seadeck set you back? We have a 2835 Cuddy and while the carpet is nice, Seadeck looks way nicer. Standard platform but will be adding a Swimplatforms.com platform in a few weeks.
  15. 2nd thumbs up on the JL Audio. We did the 4 coax speakers in our 2001 Regal and loved the improvement over the OEM Kenwoods. No sub, just a Marine Head unit and the speakers. Very glad to see the same JL coaxes were in our new to us 1999 2835! I added a JL Audio MX-500-1 mono amp for the Punch P2D2 12" sub and while the sound is not "audiophile" it does what we want in a boat system.