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About jid

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  1. My 98 is identical. Can’t recommend the seastar replacement enough. Had the boat out yesterday and the shifter is soooooo smooth. Plus it adds an updated look to the interior.
  2. The Seastar doesn’t require you to replace cables. That is why I went with it. Good luck!!
  3. Hate to be the bearer of the bad news, but the 3000 was known for having major sticking issues. Some were even recalled back then. You may be able to get some WD40 in there to unstick it. Rebuilding the unit is really hard. I tried. On my 98 sunesta I got tired of messing with it and replaced it with a Seastar CP1752P. That was 400 bucks on amazon I didn’t want to spend but it was a direct replacement without having to change the cables. I had to widen the hole slightly that the current shifter was in but that only took some patience and some drill bits. Happy to answer questions on it if you decide to tackle it. Really wasn’t hard at all. if you screw up the “neutral button” on the shifter, I have a couple spares that I don’t need so just send me your address and I’ll mail you one. I bought a few spares on eBay before I changed to the Seastar and so they aren’t doing anything but collecting dust. If I can find them. Google for quicksilver classic 3000 problems and you will have lots to read for a while. Good luck!
  4. But so is therapy. This is definitely cheaper than drinking but not cheaper than my old racing habit. Reached out to the local AZ folks...interested to hear what they have going on with an ECU reprogram.
  5. I’ve done -most- of those things. This one is an EFI. Any more info on who the guy is there that can get more power out of the ECM? That sounds promising for sure! LOVE SeaDek!!! My favorite material ever!!
  6. So far so good. New motor didn’t have timing marks on the crank so I estimated. And it is running well. But I’ll re-time it with some timing tape and then it will be spot on!
  7. I’d take 1-2 mph if I can get it. Huge difference on this boat between 44 (which is what it hits now) and my previous cuddy cabin which would only hit 42. I know it doesn’t sound like much but it is for someone who likes to make runs up and down the short lake out here.
  8. Original engine was misrepresented when I bought the boat. 15 min lake test is was fine. It overheated after I bought it next time out. Turns out one of the heads was cracked and repaired. Poorly. I had all service records from the previous owner but the engine work was conveniently left out of the pile. anyway, it is running very well now. Topping out at 44mph with those 24’s. I may try 22’s just to see but these 24’s feel really good!
  9. My 5.7 says 4400-4800 on the cover. Loaded with 4 people it for up on plane almost as fast as it did with just me. And still topped out at 4600rpm. 44mph via GPS. Not too shabby for the end of Nov!
  10. Great info! Do you recall by any chance what your top speed was with the 22’s or 26’s? I have a feeling 24’s are gonna e the ticket but just want to validate my own sanity. And save two extra prop changes if I can.
  11. Thanks for the feedback! I did speak w the engine manufacturer and they said that 5k rpm would be fine and that they would still honor the warranty on the motor if I ran it there. Something about the fuel injection tables not going much higher than that on the EFI motor but that the internals of the motor were plenty capable. since you went through the same challenge as me, what didn’t you like about the 22s? Was it fuel consumption? Loss of top end? Just felt like it was ‘over-spinning’? I still have my 26’s and a friend is going to loan me 22’s to try. I already feel like the 24’s may be the ticket... they run strong and hard right now. I’ll have 4 mid-sized adults out today so I can give it a good run with the 24s to see how they do. I’m guessing quite well. no idea how 26’s did with this motor. Was top speed higher with 26’s or just better fuel efficiency? I haven’t run this motor with the 26’s so I’m very curious as well. Joseph
  12. After a long and painful process, the new (remanufactured) 5.7 mercruiser is not only in, but the boat it running really well! currenty have 24p props on the bravo 3 outdrive. I am hitting 4600rpm at 44mph with just me (no kids, no gear) and trimmed up properly on glassy water. So the question is: Will I lose or gain top speed if I switch to 22s? The launch is pretty strong as-is with the 24’s. 22’s will bring me close to the top of the RPM band. Towing kids 22’s may be just right. Any thoughts on this? Has anyone moved from 24’s to 22’s like this before? Joseph
  13. WOT range of the new motor is 4400-4800. Sounds like 22’s will be the ticket!
  14. Sunesta 232 with new 5.7L remanufactured motor and bravo 3 outdrive. With 26P props it runs 4K rpm trimmed up. Operating range is 4400-4800 for the motor. 24p’s should put it at 4400rpm. Whereas 22s would put it at 4800rpm. So the question is: which do I guess first?
  15. The previous motor was also a 350, but I bought the boat with a damaged block so I never ran it. Really have no idea how it did before. Really have no idea how it did before. I am definitely following the break-in procedures. I don’t want to have to put another engine in!