Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Carpenter193

    Cover for just storing boat

    I bought the cheapest one Academy Sports had. It was semi-universal, designed to fit 17-19 ft V-Hull boats. Think it was around $50 or $60. I put it on when While storing the boat year round and taking it on and off when we head to the lake and get home. It fits my 1930ss great and has a 3 year warranty.
  2. Carpenter193

    Drive Gear Ratio

    Thanks Shepherd, I will definitely get the merc gasket and lube. Looking forward to getting this thing put back together and back on the water.
  3. Carpenter193

    Drive Gear Ratio

    Thanks all for their replies. Brick, unfortunately no way to repair the existing drive as the gears in the upper unit are completely destroyed, missing teeth and gouged the aluminum casing. I am unsure what the best method for uploading photos or i would post them. Cyclops, it is definitely a drive issue. All speeds in F N R, worse as RPM's increase. Engine runs smooth and will be getting a tune-up this spring. Shepherd, it looks like SEI is the way I'll be going, especially since they come with a 3 year warranty and I can almost buy 2 of them for the price of a mercury. It looks like I will be sticking with a 1.62, that way I do not have to re-prop.
  4. Carpenter193

    Drive Gear Ratio

    Hello all, Last summer I bought a 1997 1930 SS with the GM 5.7, 2 bbl with non vortex heads (I believe), and alpha one drive, 1.62 gear ratio, 19p SS prop. After only 3 trips out, totaling 6 hours total use, the drive began popping. The dealer called and said the drive was toast, and recommended a SEI unit. I will be swapping the units myself as the bellows and gimble bearing were replaced when I bought it, thus the repair should be fairly straight forward. What drive ratio is best suited for this boat/engine configuration. I have read multiple posts and cannot determine if the 1.62 or 1.47 would be best. I have read that the 1.62 is best suited for the V6's and that the added power of the V8's can lead to increased wear and problems down the road. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  5. Carpenter193

    Popping Noise in Lower Unit

    I bought a 1997 Chaparral 1930ss with a 5.7 Mercruiser and an alpha one outdrive back in June from the local Chaparral dealer (east central Mississippi). Since then it has been in the shop for all but about 3 weeks and has been a nightmare. When I bought the boat I knew during the test drive that the gimbal bearing was bad and that the shift interuptor switch needed replaced. The first time out after purchase the alarm went off and the drive lube bottle was empty with oil in the bilge. The dealer said the seal on the bottom of the bottle was bad. After $440 we got the boat back and when we got back on the water the alarm went off again. The drive lube bottle was once again empty with oil in the bilge. The dealer did a pressure test and said it passed. Then called back saying they did a test drive and at idle oil was pouring into the bilge from the drive bellow. The seals in the upper drive were replaced and while they were at it I had the bellows, lower shift cable, and gimbal bearing replaced. $760 later the boat is ready and after pulling it home I find that the exhaust bellow has pulled off on the transom side. I take the boat back and get the bellow fixed. Go to take the boat out the following weekend and find the drive lube bottle empty. I assumed that the system just had air in it and the GM at the dealer confirmed that was most likely the cause. He gave me two bottles of oil to top it off and I left. Got on the water and the boat did great. Ran good, gimbal bearing was quiet and while the oil level had dropped the alarm did not come on. Topped it off and floated down the river for a while. I noticed a knock/popping sound that could be slightly felt in the floor. It happened every 15-20 seconds and was fairly faint. As we went it started to get a little worse but was only evident at idle (regardless of gear). Decided it was best to get off the water before it got worse just in case. On the way to the ramp the boat ran good and the knock/pop was not noted while cruising on plane. At the dock the noise was worse and could be felt more. After backing the trailer down the noise was nearly constant. While loading the boat onto the trailer the noise was extermely loud and shook the boat. The oil level had dropped again and it appeared that it was all in the bilge again. I think I filled the bottle 4 times. Took it back to the shop and the GM said they would look at it but may not be their fault. So to recap, I have dropped $1200 into a bot that I have used 3 times and each time had to get off the water within 3 hours of putting in each time. The boat has spent more time sitting at the dealership than at my house and each time I take it in it takes at least a month to get it back. I have several questions about the issues at hand and how to handle the situation. 1.) would the pressure test not show that the seals were bad. Why would the leak not show up until on the water? 2.) What is the nocking/popping noise and what could have caused it. Did a low oil level (caused by the dealer) cause it? 3.) Do I have any legal rights if the dealership doesn't want to work with me? I am afraid they won't own up for this latest incident. Prior to the repairs the drive was silent and ran great. No vibrations or popping noises. 4.) Is there a way to contact Chaparral directly? I know they don't care about the mechanical issues of a 20 year old boat, but they should be concerned that a dealership is taking months to repair boats and is doing such a poor job at fixing the problems at hand the first time. This is unacceptable and they aren't just doing it with my boat. They have many boats in the lot that have been there for 2+ months yet to be looked at. Thank you you for any help. Zac
  6. Carpenter193


    Test Post