SG Boater

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About SG Boater

  1. I'm not sure all the OEM bimini's have SS tubing. The boat I just purchased, '05 210, has what I believe to be an OEM bimini and it has SS fittings, but aluminum tubing. The SS tubing is much more robust as stated, but although it could and probably has happened, I've never known a bimini to fail due to the tubing being too weak. I'd agree 110% with using SS hardware and fittings though cause I can just see one of those plastic fittings breaking and a pole gouging the boat. The reason I'd hesitate to use SS tubing is because that's what I put on the boat previous to my 210, a Chap 1830 The whole thing weighted about 20 - 25 lbs and really wobbled when underway and stored in the "radar arch" position due to the weight. When opened up the wind filled it up and it was pretty stable, but when closed it really bounced side to side. After a season or two of waiting for it to bust the SS fitting where it attached to the side of the boat, I ended up putting in a pole that supported it side to side at a 45 degree, ie ran from the deck behind the sunpad to the upper corner of the bimini. Solid as a rock then, but had to put up the 45 every time we took out the boat. Current boat with aluminum frame doesn't need the support. Going with aluminum over SS tubing will also save a couple hundred $ last I checked.
  2. Scratch that, at least from that website. Just looked and they don't offer the Westland tarps for your boat. Another site may.
  3. I just had to get one. didn't have a lot of time cause was picking up a new to me boat, 3 1/2 hours away on the only day that our schedules allowed and the forecast was for rain (he didn't have a travel cover). Ordered a Westland brand custom fit cover (Sunbrella) from for $600 (I needed a trailerable tarp anyhow). That was as cheap as I could find for custom fit sunbrella, and they had it to me in less than a week. Fits like a glove and kept it bone dry driving the whole way home in rain. Has a rope to cinch below the rub rail and 12 straps that go around the trailer rails. but a local shop may be less?
  4. I'm guessing wires also, though they look fine, don't appear brittle, and no visible signs of degradation. I'll replace the senders/wires when I do the bellows regardless of what I find since it appears the wires eventually give out, and I'd hate to loose total ability to trim. But I won't be doing bellows for a year or two so if I found it was the gauge itself, would consider replacing now.
  5. I've searched, but can't find any way to test whether it's the gauge or sending unit causing the gauge to remain static, regardless of key or outdrive position. Correction, I have seen some comments on how to test gauges, but could only find that info for single purpose gauges and since mine is a 4 in 1 gauge, I have 2 harnesses with lots of wires going into the gauge and am not sure which wires provide feed to the gauge. Took apart the sender and it appears just fine. I did also see on here some comments on how to test with the sender is out by contacting the brushes with a jumper. However if I don't see any movement of the gauge I won't be able to narrow it down to the wiring, or the gauge. If it was a regular gauge I'd simply replace since they're cheap, even have an extra from old boat, but the 4 in 1 gauges are pretty pricey. I replaced the sending unit on our last boat, so know what's involved. If it turns out to be the sender/wiring, I'll just replace when i replace bellows in a couple years. On a related note, I can't recall because it's been 10 years or so since I replaced on my old boat, but can the sending units be connected by pulling the wires in the boat out through the transom, connecting the sending unit wiring and then shoving them all the way back in. I have a 210SSi, and don't think I'd be able to reach the connections from inside.
  6. That space is spoken for, my truck and Jeep. No, they do not have hinged rear seats which was a surprise to me. They simply sit in place, w/a flap on the front that snaps to the fiberglass cover on the front of the seat base. The one time I took the boat out, towed without a cover and they both lifted off and were laying on the floor. My fix which I've yet to see if it works, is to attach a short section of nylon strap on the underside of the seat towards the back, and the mating piece attached to the inside back of the underseat storage w/a buckle. Simply lift up the front edge and buckle for towing, then drop the front edge and snap. Hopefully that works. The cushions are also the full depth, ie. no separate bolster. Pulled the bench seat last night to clean the boat out good, check everything out and do some preventive maintenance/replacements so won't have to get in there for a couple of years I hope. Differences in design starting in '05 present problems for making the slide out partition mod like you and a couple of others did. The back needs to support the back of the seating surface which is designed as a "Step" in the '05 on. It is therefor much more heavily "attached" to the seat base. It could be done, but by by the time I put in all the necessary screws to support, nearly as easy to simply remove the hole thing (seat and partition) as one. With the remote oil filter and one point draining should only have to pull everything out every couple of years, and would probably need a good cleaning by that time anyhow. Couple quick questions. How do you grease the coupler? I was going to see if I can reach through the flap now that the seat is out fully, using the set up I had for my old boat, a pistol grip grease gun and a 1' solid end on my grease gun hose. I know I can't see the zerk fitting on the coupler, but possibly w/a mirror. Only other way I can see is to remove the drive and grease the splines. 2ndly, do you fog with the special brew fed through the gas lines? I didn't look real close yet, but not sure I'll be able to reach the gas line with the seat in since the fuel filter is down so low. Might have to add a hatch in the back, or put a "Y" valve in the gas line cause don't want to remove the seat every year.
  7. I got lucky and sold the old boat (1830) in a week so I had more incentive to fit the 210 into an offset in the garage. For anyone else that is looking for a way to maneuver a boat around, I purchased a set of gojaks. I read many accounts of how the cheaper wheel dollies didn't work well cause the casters wouldn't pivot easily, so I sucked it up and bought the gojaks for about 4 times the price. I got the heaviest ones, models 6313 I believe, rated at 1,500 lbs each. Put one under each of the two front tires, give them each a couple of pumps to jack up the tires, and it actually maneuvers more easily than my 1830 did. Pivoting on the rear set allows me to get closer to the side wall, which is why I put them on the front set. This also has the benefit of taking some of the weight off the tongue. I can pivot it w/one hand easily. Now sits a foot from the side wall, 2" from the back wall and 40" from the front, just enough to clear the man door.
  8. Tomnjo, sent you a pm. The old boat is still in the garage, likely there till spring when the selling market improves. So the old one is still on the side where I want to eventually want to slide this one. For now, it's just backed straight in. A little tight to fit my Truck in there with both boats, but it goes. Jeep fits easily so that's probably what will live in that garage this winter..
  9. It took a while till schedules matched, but finally hooked up with the seller and brought home the maroon and white '05 210 from TN (KY Lake). Thanks for all the help. I'll have more questions down the road and will be looking into a couple mods shown here, ie. easily removable bench seat, hatches in the consoles, etc. Unfortunately this one doesn't have the snap on covers which isn't too bad, got a full custom cover for trailering before I went down (good thing, rained all the way home), but I will miss the bow cover. If anyone has some time to kill over the winter and cares to trace their bow cover onto a sheet or something I can use as a pattern, let me know. Unfortunately, can't get the OEM ones anymore and I'd have to take it somewhere to have one made, unless I can supply a pattern. Thanks again.
  10. My current ski locker now isn't much smaller, 17x32 opening, about 25" wide below the lip. But only 9" deep at the center, so it's not deep enough to angle the slaloms or wakeboard into it without the boots getting caught at the front. Both slalom and wakeboard boots are 10" tall. I will miss my underseat storage though, 71x9.5" opening, 74x15 inside. Sounds like the ski locker should work though. This a.m. while doing some research I came across your thread where you put the access doors in the consoles. One of the pics came up on google, but they're deleted from this site. How much room is actually in those consoles? They don't look that deep. thx.
  11. "You can slide skis way forward and keep the wakeboards in the back." This solves my dilemma, the fact that a wakeboard and skis could be stored in there. '07 and newer is like your picture, that white "door" or step flips up. The only pic i've been able to find of '05 still has the seat, or pad, in place, but it appears it's carpeted underneath so not sure if it flips up to provide full width access. If not I could modify, but based upon what you said, won't need to. "TBH, storing skis under my bench would be a challenge". That surprises me. I store 3 tournament slaloms with full double boots and my spare prop under the seat in my 1830. Boots are too tall to even fit in my ski locker so good thing. My short top, the one that connects to the windshield, is in there too (only used once in 14 years since have a bimini). If I took that out could get a 4th slalom in there. Down side is everyone has to get up every time we switch skis. But anyhow, problem solved. thx.
  12. No good way to get there, but 3 1/2 hours is better than the 7 hours to AR (It was actually in Fort Smith AR, right on the OK border.) My initial reservations on this one were no tarps and I don't believe the bench seat is open all the way across on an '05 like it is on the earlier or later model years to allow for storing ski's there. But I can get tarps/covers and can modify the seat easy enough if I need to. Color isn't too bad either.
  13. I only got one estimate, but from all I've heard, he's good. He admitted it's very hard to tell from the pictures, but said I should be prepared for $2K to make it look like new. He also had concern of the torn loose keel guard. Could be from delamination, or a hard hit? Almost impossible to tell since you can't see under it, and can't inspect from inside the boat. Doesn't look like a hard hit, but ??? Regardless, $2K is too big a ticket. Time to move on. Talking to the one in TN that Tomnjoe posted the link to.
  14. Was out last week and surprisingly the water was nice. Skiing was awesome with no other boats. Wedding this weekend so doubtful. The owner said most of his boating was done at Lake Ouachita in North Central AR. I've never been there but want to some day. Supposed to be one of the prettiest and clearest lakes in the US, water visibility 30-40'. Looks like I'd want to stay away from the shores though. I would assume it's not going to be hard to fix. But that doesn't necessarily mean it won't be expensive. I'll find out though when the shop calls with an estimate.
  15. If it's near or under a thousand, pretty sure he'd do it. I don't know if he'd knock off more than that to satisfy my OCD. I'm sure there are buyers out there that wouldn't even worry about it. But never had a scratched up boat and don't want to start now. Trying to get him to give a straight on pic of the keel where the keel guard ends. If it's clean there, I'll be satisfied it's minimal and easily fixed.