SG Boater

Members
  • Content count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About SG Boater

  • Birthday 08/14/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ste. Genevieve, MO
  • Interests
    Boating
  1. I just put one on '05 5.0 MPI 2 weeks ago. Works perfect. STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC423 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve $ 41.79 $ 0.00 This is from Rock Auto. If you put in the AC423 in has the #'s that this replaces and I believe one of those is actually the mercruiser #. This particular # doesn't come with the right gasket however, comes with sort of a molded o-ring made to fit in a groove. Either get the gasket separately from Rock Auto, or you can pick up at any auto parts for next to nothing. I believe the Mercruiser is north of 100 deer for the IAC. .
  2. This is the atwood. The mounting hole is 2 1/8", only that small lip catches/overlaps the exterior surface. Not sure if that the same. And this is the Sea Dog. Only the two smaller holes to mount this. I'm leaning this way to avoid having to cut a big hole.
  3. I will probably just leave go as is for a while. The only "need" for them is when the nieces and nephews come along, once a year or so, and want to tube double. None of them ski or wakeboard. Not sure I want to drill holes in my boat to entertain nieces and nephews once a summer. Our immediate family all skis, wakeboards and kneeboards, outgrew the tubes.
  4. I have had that piece out many times. Makes what little access there is much easier.
  5. I didn't put them anywhere yet, still debating. I am thinking towards the ends of the "hump" rather than beneath the vents. If the back area is beefed up, I'm guessing it would run the width of that hump, yet I'd like to space them a bit so don't have multiple holes near each other. I only need/want one additional eye so it won't be symetrical, but my thinking is to add one about 1/2 way between the factory center mounted one and the end of the hump to either right or left. This weekend I'll look to see if I can tell if it's beefed up where the factory one is. A quick glance the other day didn't look like it, ie. didn't see any plywood or metal plates glassed in or localized "hump" in the glass on the inside indicating more fiberglass, but I'll look again.
  6. If the fiberglass is actually thicker where the stock eye is, I don't think I want to chance it. With a 210, there is no way for me to reach back there and add more material that I can see. I'll see if I can look closer to see if it is beefed up where the stock eye is. Do you remember if the mounting hole was fairly large, ie. 2 1/8". The Atwood that requires that hole for mounting does have a large backing plate, just like my factory eye. The others all use two posts that go through two smaller holes and simply have washers on the backside.
  7. Futzin, it appears the Atwood flush mount eye is pretty close if not the exact tow eye used by Chaparral. Sea Dog also makes one, but looks a little different. Were the ones you used Atwood? Judging by the picture you posted in the e-mail chain regarding adding pictures, it appears you matched the Chaparral stock eye with the two you added. Directions say to cut a 2 1/8 hole that the whole thing recesses into with a large plate on backside. The Seadog only has two legs on the backside, says it fits the holes of most std. ski tow mounts. If I do this, I'd like it to match, but wondering if the two smaller holes would be less compromising to the fiberglass than one large 2 1/8 hole, although that's what it appears is there from stock assuming stock is the Atwood. How thick was the fiberglass when you cut that 2 1/8 hole? I don't see any additional reinforcement where the current eye is though it is kind of hard to see back there in a 210. It appears the fiberglass is the same all the way across the back, so guess the glass is strong enough to mount another tow eye a 1' or so to one side or the other of the factory installed center mount eye. Any other cautions from your experience.
  8. I only knew because I've had that buffer for 15 years or so as well as several orbital sanders. On the high speed, an aggressive pad (different colors have different densities) and some compound it might do it. I know I've taken several scuffs our of our boats over the years.
  9. That's exactly how a random orbit is supposed to work so likely they will reply as you said. The buffers action is due to the spindle being slightly off center so it moves in a very small circle around which the whole pad orbits, the pad only spins slightly by it's own inertia, not from the buffer spinning it. Random orbits are great for wax and polish, but due to the small movement, aren't as aggressive. The offset to them not being as aggressive is they are much safer to use (virtually no swirl marks). A true buffer can do a lot of damage in the hands of someone that isn't experienced, ie. burn the gel coat. I have the exact same buffer you have and they are very good for what they're intended. If you're having to remove much however, it may not be aggressive enough.
  10. We're headed to Kinkaid today for our initial outing.
  11. Even with rivets it's going to stick 1/4" below the lower fender surface. May or may not hit. Mine did, obviously since the rivets were already gone. I got ss round head 1/4 x 20 screws and put them in from under the fender. That way they're rounded enough won't hurt the tire and won't wear off a SS rounded head. On the top side, top of the diamond plate I put acorn nuts. I guess if you were barefoot that acorn nut may poke you're foot a little, but I'm always at least in flip flops when the boat is on land so no issue in my mind. And, since I now had something on top the diamond tread, I used those bolts to mount tie down loops to the top of the fenders. Much easier to attach my tarp now than having to route the tarp strap between the boat and fender and around the trailer frame. I only did that once, when I brought the boat home, and it sucked.
  12. You might double check the screws that are right over the top of the tire, ie. at 12:00 relative to the tire. At least that's where they look to be positioned. I know all my trailers have had the tires go up into the fenders when you hit a big swag in the road. In fact my current trailer from the factory has diamond tread on the fenders held on by some form of adhesive and rivets in the corners. Most of the rivets are actually gone now, the tires at some time contacted the bottom of the rivet and wore them off. Since the boat/trailer were new to me this past fall and as part of the deal I had him put new tires on it, I don't know if the tires were damaged. But just wanted to remind you to double check so that you don't end up losing the diamond tread at some point.
  13. Without removing the rear seat or a mirror, I can't see how the rear cleats look from the inside but I image the same as the front. I looked through the anchor locker at the backside of the front mount pop up cleats and there is a backing plate. But it simply backs the perimeter of the upper cleat housing. There's a hole in the fiberglass that the whole cleat drops down through an 1 1/2" wide by 3" long or so, the backing plate is the same. Don't think that's where I want to attach a towable. The safest bet would be to add a ski (towable) eye, but on a 210, it would be a task unless the engine were out.
  14. I bet that was a drastic change.
  15. On our lake, i believe the only V was the Mark Twain I mentioned above that pulled up the 5. At least when we first moved there, the rest of the boats were tri-hulls and we thought they were so much cooler looking. The "V"'s look like boats from the 60's in our mind. Funny how times and tastes change. The Mark Twain Tri's were Tri-Sonic. In fact the biggest boat on the lake was an 18' Tri-Sonic with a Merc 230 something HP IO. We thought that thing was a barge with an engine off an aircraft carrier. Funny how things seem so big when you're young.