SG Boater

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About SG Boater

  • Birthday 08/14/1964

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    Ste. Genevieve, MO
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  1. I marked one side so I'd insert remove the tool the same each time. Just to check tool straightness, I did insert/remove with my mark at 90 degree intervals and always same. Tool is straight, at least close enough to tell me alignment was out.
  2. The part that has me baffled is that when hanging from a chain, mounting lags backed out and mounts "retracted" so 1/4" up from stringer, I still couldn't move the engine far enough. I couldn't see anything that was hitting. That's when i threw in the towel, thinking it's binding on the rear mount somehow. I think there is enough lateral adjustment in the mount, but I couldn't move the engine. Hopefully I'll hear something in a day or two.
  3. From the people I know who have used OPC, the report was "good, but very pricey". A friend of mine had his Bravo 3 go out, something to do with the clutch that they had to have made because Merc didn't even have that part available. I assume it was a part that's since be re-designed since his Bravo 3 is on an '07. Bill was $3500 deer. I've heard several complaints about Inland.
  4. Even after seeing it he said he thought total bill to be in the 600-900 range, closer to the bottom of that range. That price is even with the coupler, I was thrilled. If I'd stumbled across this shop i would have passed. Small shop with outboard powerheads sitting around everywhere. Not the nice and clean shops I'd rather use. But an old guy that used to be the only repair shop in Ste. Genevieve recommended them, saying they were good and very particular, he'd taken some boats down to him when beyond his abilities. He doesn't think much of the St. Louis shops, at least those on the south side towards us. I too have heard some bad things about the marine repair shops on the south side. It's King Marine down in Cape Girardeau. Hopefully they live up to the recommendation. I am definitely glad I gutted it though. They wouldn't have had a clean spot big enough to put the sun pad.
  5. thanks for the heads up on the dist. I was going to pass w/200 hours, but might as well. i had already asked him to replace exhaust shutters since he'll be right there.
  6. Boat was new to me in October and I winterized this past winter, store with outdrive all the way down. So what you're saying is possible, but not this past year. When I removed the seal carrier, nothing but nice clean lube underneath so pretty sure no water made it's way into drive. Replaced carrier and seals, pressure tested drive with 0 leak down so I think I'm ok in that department. I actually watched the video you posted, and a 100 more it seems like. I could get the vertical alignment dead on, but nowhere could I find any ideas on lateral. After removing the lags to the engine mounts, got it to where I could slide in and out with two fingers with slight rub on port side, but when turned engine over 180 degrees couldn't even get the alignment bar started, hitting again on port side. I still couldn't get the engine to budge starboard enough even when hanging from a chain. And based upon the uneven alignment, appears coupler has now taken a set. My thinking is engine was off to port, so the pressure from the driveshaft skewed the coupler back to center, ie. towards starboard. So then when I rotate the engine 180 degrees, it's even more off to the port side. I threw in the towel, thinking I might break something, whatever is in back that's keeping the engine from adjusting side to side. Pulled it to a shop yesterday and they're replacing coupler and getting lateral adjustment dialed in. Fortunately it's a small shop without all the big OH so price quoted is way less than I was fearing. And then I won't have to worry about a coupler giving up the ghost when I'm 60 or 70 miles down a lake or river, which we do a couple times a season. I appreciate the help. When I dropped it off yesterday, I couldn't believe the guy said that engine would be easy to get out. Not sure how though. Although I have read a couple other instances where people had said removal isn't bad on the 210, just maintenance?? I do have the boat gutted for him, bench seat and all dividers out, sunpad removed, carpet out.
  7. boat only has 20 hours and no signs of water ever really getting in or through the hull anywhere. So, no flags that would indicate leaks or bad transom. I'll see if I can reach the bolts to check if anything is loose. It's a bear to get to anything on the back of the engine or farther back on the 210, so not sure how much I'll be able to tell, but I'll see what I can see. thanks for the suggestions.
  8. Possibly. Suggestions as to what those may be? I have read what seems like 1,000's of threads and have seen mention of possibly bad rear mount causing side to side movement. I have a 210, so can barely even see the rear mount, and that only on the starboard side. But I don't think the engine is clocked. When I raise the engine w/a hoist, and thread up the adjusting nuts to finger tight so that they should be equally supporting the weight, they appear to be same height, as close as I can tell by counting threads that are exposed at that particular section of the bolts diameter.
  9. I know there isn't supposed to be, but my marks are all on port side of bar, and a 1" pipe slid into the coupler confirms it off to port side. Just came in from pulling the lags in the mounts and I do have some adjustment left in the slots of the mounts. Hopefully enough. Will find out next time I dive into it.
  10. looks like I'm the 1 in a million.
  11. No one has any experience with this situation?
  12. Now that spring is approaching, I'm in the process of finalizing all preparations/maintenance of our new to me '05 210 SSI. Dropped the alpha drive to replace water pump and found water pump full of oil. Pressure tested lower 1/2 of unit and found the drive shaft seal beneath the water pump leaking. When I drained the oil, it looked perfect. Question, is it possible that seal leaked oil out but didn't let water in. I've been told shift shaft seal can do that. I trial ran the boat a 1/2 hour or so and then had it in the water 3 hours or so after I bought it and as I said drained oil looked good. I want to make sure previous owner didn't change oil to cover a known problem. I read removing the cap on upper 1/2 of drive to see the upper drive shaft bearings will tell whether any damage. Due to air pocket up there, that's the first place to show damage from water contamination. That sound right? Then moved to engine alignment. Marks initially heavy on underside of alignment tool. So I raised both sides a full rotation of adjusting nut. No change so did a couple more times of either 1/2 or full rotation with little change. Then I got sidetracked and couldn't remember if I'd done port side, but at most was only 1 full turn off one side to the other. Marks now on port side only. Made many attempts sometimes one side and not the other, but could never get rid of port side marks. Used 2/6's and eye bolt/chain to raise engine. Snugged up adjusting nuts by finger to get new starting point. Same result. Tried with hoist chain vertical and skewed to both sides. Still can't get rid of port side marks on alignment bar. I can get it to where appears perfectly centered vertical, but can't get rid of port side marks. Then took piece of approx 1" conduit. It has a little wiggle room, but moving it full side to side I get 1/4" gap between conduit and gimbal bearing on port side, 1/8" gap starboard. Appears perfect vertically. Now I turn the engine over 180 degrees and alignment bar won't go in. Conduit has approx 5/16 gap on Port, 1/16 gap on starboard. It appears I need to move the front of engine 1/16 - 1/8" towards starboard to get a happy medium between the marks at 180 degrees. How? I think there are slots in the engine mounts mounting holes, but can't tell how much slot is left beneath washer. They are already skewed a little towards starboard. I wanted to see if another easy way before loosening my mounts. I think If I can move the engine starboard, i'll get it so the alignment tool will slide in fairly easily (maybe 2 fingers easy) with slight rub on port and starboard depending upon where in engine rotation I'm at. Somehow it was centered laterally when i started so they somehow had it adjusted at the factory. The coupler is apparently ok now with 200 hours on it. Is the 1/16" deviation of the coupler from dead center too much? I know in a perfect world it would be dead on, but would rather not have to pull the engine if 1/16 off-center is livable. Would appreciate any help or thoughts.
  13. Like this? I think that will be a custom cover. I've never seen an OEM cover that covered bow and cockpit that wasn't a full cover, at least not on any Chaparrals. When looking for a bow cover I googled Custom Bow cover and found a couple that made them like the above. You'll likely have to take your boat to them.
  14. Also, is the ski locker lid cracked all the way through, or just on the underside? Mine is just on the underside. The ski locker lids are double layer, kind of honeycombed between the layers. I got some 1 1/4" aluminum angle and made cross braces, through bolted with finish washers on top. I just did this over the winter so haven't tested it, but doubt it will ever crack all the way through. However I went ahead and got the replacement in the event I do need it some day after they aren't available. You may be able to salvage yours.
  15. I just purchased a ski locker lid for my '05 210 SSi. I know it's the same one used on the 204 SSI, and looks to be about the same size as yours so your boat may use the same one. Be prepared though, those wider ski locker lids are $$. Cecil Marine wanted 400 deer for mine, but was able to get it from Chaparral through St. Louis dealer for 250. the one for the 220 is much narrower and less than 1/2 the price. Both Great Lakes Skipper and Cecil Marine have some chaparral parts, but I've not seen any anchor lockers or back pads.