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About WaterDR

  1. Yup. Keep in mind that SS will be a lot more efficient. So, it grabs better. Remember, the pitch number is really not a pitch, but rather equal to the number of Inches the boat will move per rotation. Think of it like a screw going into wood. Sorry if you already know this. A 20P prop will move the boat 20” per one rotation. An aluminum prop will have more “slip”. This is essentially efficiency losses. In other words, if a 20P prop actually only moves the boat 18” per rotation the difference would be slip loss. This is why it can be difficult to compare one prop to another of different brands or type. Best rule of thumb is to prop the boat to get the highest possible RPMs without over spinning with a light load.
  2. Whenever I have moved from an alum to a SS in the past, I have always had to go down in pitch because of the flex of the alum prop. IMO, yuh are always better running higher in your rpm range which also means more turns at slower speeds and this better maneuvering around the dock.
  3. Ok.....my boat is a 263 Sunesta. 350 with bravo 3. My slip is not in the easiest spot. Let me paint a picture..... My Marina is pretty small. It’s a inlet cove that is very narrow. There are boats on both sides. Our slip is near the end. Think of a narrow rectangle where the back of the rectangle, there are also slips. Winds typically blow in and if I blow past my slip, there is really not much room to correct. So far, I am mooring bow in. My slip is on the port side. Basically, I have been hugging the left side of the channel and then getting my bow in the slip and using the midship bumper to twist me into the slip off the dock. Question...is it easier to back into wind or go bow first? trying to debate two approach options when it is windy. Option 1....drive past the slip a small bit....then back in. Option 2....back down the channel allowing the wind to push me....once just past the slip, drive forward into the wind into the slip. The third option would be to simply drive down the channel with the wind at my back...and go in bow first, but worried that if I miss, I am screwed and won’t have much steering control. Hope this makes sense...wish I had a picture to post or a drawing.
  4. Agree....I don’t care about matching frankly. The seats are white with black inserts. But I don’t want a black pad. likely will go with something to match the carpet....gray.
  5. That’s sort of what I suspected. Doesn’t look hard to do
  6. So my new to me 2002 263 Sunesta has aft cushions that I can set up and turn the back into a pseudo bed. Works great. The bow appears to be set up with the same capability but I don’t have the cushions or the poles. Anyome know if they are just missing or perhaps this would have been an option? any idea as to where I can get some?
  7. All those 303 products are amazing!
  8. Ran like a champ all day....put about 4 hours on it!
  9. The tech did adjust the connectors. Seemed to know what he was doing. Fingers crossed.
  10. There is a hose clamp that it looks like someone may have added to hold the two together. Guessing it has been a problem before
  11. Does this seem like a typical wire harness issue?
  12. Ok....here is where we are at. Hooked up computer and no alarms. Started boat up and one beep and stalls. Alarm showed fuel pump. I saw it with my own eyes. tried to start again....would turn over and not start. No beep and no fuel pump would not start. then tried again....it ran. Cleared code. Gabe it power and under power, @#$%@# down again with fuel pump alarm. His thought was a bad sensor. So ran the motor again. While running he tapped the main wire harness and beep and motor quit again. Turns out the wire harness was lose. he took the harness off, checked the contacts and then got it good and tight. Ran it again and could not repeat the problem even banging on the harness. I asked if the two beep alarm I was getting would also be related to ththe lose harness. Hard to say but if a contact was bad, I think it’s any guess. i haven’t been able to really test the boat since the repair.
  13. With mechanic this morning now....which is good. Appears to be fuel pump related so far.
  14. Ok....here is what happened. While at dock, started motor and let it warm up. Ran fine for about a minute or two. Then...steady beep and shut down all of a sudden. I started it back up. Ran fine. No alarms. All gauges and all levels good. took her out.... Ideled fine. Then opened her up. Ran fine and smooth for a few minutes. Then got the two beeps. I shut down to check all levels again. No issues found. Then started up, one beep and shut down again. From that point I couldn’t keep her running. If I tried to add throttle she would catch and run, but then would drop RPMs and sputter. Got progressively worse. We would sit and wait. Then repeat again and again so we could at least make sure we were driving in the right direction. Then eventually it idled again. And I was able at idle speed to pull into a gas dock. When it was idling again I was afraid to give it any power. my fear is that it’s not something simple of course. Been down the path before with other things. Code shows a bad this or that....replace it....runs good and then bam...same problem again. Marinas around here are awfully backed up. Really bad time to have boat problems. My guy is three weeks out before he can even read a code. Can ya believe that? Now I am sitting in a transient slip (which I have to pay for) at a different marina . Good lord. i am going to run out there in about an hour and try and talk to someone. I may try to hunt down an IAC and replace. But I don’t want to touch anything until I have codes. Those things can get dirty and blocked up too. I have removed them from cars before.
  15. Took it out tonight....the two beeps starred again and then it wouldn’t run. We barely made it to a marina. Broke down.