Jump to content

Dozer

Members
  • Content count

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Panama City, Fl

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    I never done this before, so let me see if i understand it correctly. Remove the oil pressure sensor, and attach the NPT gauge in its place, then use the old converted distributor attached to the drill to see if it register a pressure? If so what pressure should I be looking for? Thank you
  2. Dozer

    Cool Fuel Module cooling hose fittings

    Just ordered one, it sucks that i have to spend over 70 deer because of a few deer plastic connectors
  3. It seems I take two steps forward and one backwards in trying to get these engines all rebuilt. So I was installing the manifold and riser on the starboard side of the starboard engine, it's a tight spot, and the manifold slipped and hit the bracket the secures the cooling hoses to the Cool Fuel Module, and broke one and cracked the other... looking online the only way to get this repaired is to buy an entire hose kit, instead of just the two plastic connectors. Does anyone know if those plastic connectors are sold separately? It's #14 on this parts list https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/0W614502/4M420G7TT/11681_250 These are the plastic connectors I need...
  4. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    You think i should just finish assembling the motor. I already have the intake, valve covers and distributor installed. The main parts remaining is the exhausts and risers. Once i turn it on and have oil pressure, you think that will be ok?
  5. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    I hope so.. Well I have the engine in, aligned, the outdrive installed with new rings and all lubed up. Installed the heads, got the valves adjusted, poured in the new oil, and used one of my old distributers as a priming tool to spend the oil pump.... I'm not sure if the pump is working correctly or not. When I did the same work on the port engine, and used the same "tool" to spend the oil pump, I recall the oil started flowing fairly quick up to the rockers, ad few even squirted out oil. On the starboard, it's taking a lot longer and I barely see the oil flowing, on a few rockers I don't think any oil was flowing. Can the oil pump be bad??? I don't want to pull that engine out again, it's been a pain. Thank you.
  6. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    W. Turns out the bearing was the culprit, remember I said when I would turn the alignment tool from 12 to 3 or 6 oclock position and it would get jammed, is because I had it in the gimbal bearing, for some reason it was not centered....so I place the old one back in, and after a very few small adjustment with the engine lift I was able to insert and remove the tool with two finger grip. I rotate the engine a quarter turn x4 and only the 3rd (quarter) turn was a bit more tight than the others. Getting the outdrive to line up and go in was a bit of a struggle, but I was all by myself using a homemade dolly. But she in, and now that I have homemade engine lift rig over the engine bay I will remove the port side and make sure it's aligned and lubed. YES! This was the key, very small adjustments made this process a lot smoother --- THANK YOU, that saved my insanity, I tough I had screwed up the entire thing. Also I removed one set of chains from my four point engine lift bar/leveler and attached them to the block bolts as you suggested, it kept the engine balanced. I feel much better now. So after getting the port engine aligned, I'll reassemble the starboard and hopefully I will have a much smoother season ahead...between these engine problems and the hurricane I need something to go my way. But so far, looking back, I'm glad to have gone through these pains, as I have learned a lot more about my boat than I ever thought...and now I feel a lot more comfortable taking her out. Thank for all the great help
  7. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    W. Thank you for the quick reply and the instructions. I did NOT remove the flywheel, but I did clean it and made sure it was smooth before bolting on the coupler. I think I made a series of mistakes, that are now causing me these issues; FIRST when I removed the engine I first remove the nut and washer from the front mounts (7 and 8 on drawing) and then as I was lifting the engine, the base assembly #4 was on the way so I removed it. I guess I should have just removed the bolts holding the base assembly and left the nuts in place. SECOND, I decided to install the new gimbal bearing without the engine in place, not sure if that may have caused any issues, but I wanted to make sure it was seated all the way, and with the engine out I could verify it seated all the way. THIRD and last, I lifted the engine (minus heads, intake and exhaust manifolds) using an engine leveler which has 4 connection points, so that is probably not helping make sure the engine is balanced by using the mid point hoist like the lifter eye above the thermostat housing. I guess its live and learn, I was hoping that by not installing the heads and manifolds, it gives me more room to work and access all the connections on the back. Is there a place I can hook up the lift chain to do a "balanced" lift without causing and twisting? Or should I install the heads and intake manifold and then use the lift eye to make the final adjustments? After making my post yesterday, I placed the tool on the kitchen counter granite surface and it rolls true... I guess my rookie mistakes are all contributors to difficult time in trying to get this aligned correctly. Let me know if you think I can do the alignment without having the heads and manifolds installed, and if so, where would be the single place to hook up the lifting chain. Thank you
  8. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    W. She fits fine, but now that I got her on bolted to the motor, and have put the motor back in the boat. I'm having a #$^% of a time getting the motor aligned correctly. At this point either I'm doing something wrong, there's some defect with the coupler or with the alignment tool I place the motor back in the boat after completely taking it out, and getting the block water passageways all cleared as I did for the port engine Got the heads back from the shop, got them painted along with cleaning and painting the intake manifold -- cleaned and teste the injectors. So now the block minus the heads, intake and exhaust manifolds is sitting in the boat -- makes it a lot easier to reach in the back for the engine bolts... I spent hours trying to align the engine. Finally I was able to insert the alignment tool using two hands to push it in and two hands to pull it out. Here is why I said maybe something wrong with the alignment tool - it goes in at a certain position, if I rotate it 45, 90 or 180 degrees it will not go in...or if I insert it and rotate it, I can't pull it out. It shouldn't make a difference right? Also here is why I said maybe something is not right with the coupler, if I rotate the engine 1/4. 1/2 and 3/4 I cannot insert the tool regardless of how I orient it, I can rotate the alignment tool 360 degrees and it will not go in... once I rotate the engine to the original position, I can again insert the alignment tool. I'm confused, anyone has any insight on how to deal with this? Just to see how the outdrive would fit, I was able to insert it all the way and tighten the 6 nuts...it was a pain, I had to do some pushing and kicking to get it there...its not permanent and I don't plan on running the engine until I can figure this out. I just can't catch a break with this boat...she just keeps on fighting me all the way. Thanks in advance for any help/advise on how to get this fixed
  9. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    How do you delete a post? I started posting a question about a gimbal bearing but figured out the answer right after I posted the question....So how do I get rid of this post?
  10. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    Hope this deal I got is NOT one of those "too good" deals; a seller on eBay had a brand new HD coupler that fits my engine. They were asking 575 deer for it with option to make an offer, so I figured I would low ball it at 450, thinking they would either say no or counter offer around 500...but I was surprised to receive a YES. With shipping I got it for under 500 deer. Most prices on eBay and other sites listed the same coupler around 600-800. So, is there anything I should be on the look out before installing this coupler? I definitely need something to go my way, it seams this boat just loves to stick it to my bank account. Thanks Another question, I initially assumed the reason the starboard was not going into gear was due to a faulty outdrive shift cable, but the cables on both drives seem to in good shape. I ordered some at about 140 deer each and was wondering if I need to replace them? I was thinking of just returning it and using the "mula" for something else. Your thoughts?
  11. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    W. When looking at the photos for the HD coupler compared to the one I have in the boat - they are different, Looks like the HD has longer splines. Should I just stick to the original in case the HD would not fit? Here are the image links for both; HD Coupler https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER861523A11 Original Coupler https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER8M0098795 Thanks for the other info, currently trying to order all the necessary parts to get this going along with rebuilding the engine.. at least the weather is cool and I will not be sweating my you know what in the engine bay
  12. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    You mean the cheaper one??? #20 on the chart https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.0L_MPI_ALPHA-BRAVO/8M0049000/15322-160 on my boat unless you're a skinny 5 year old...LOL The air intake cover is about 6 inches from the top of the engine bay and the risers are less than 2 inches... No way to get in there. Will do, is there a specific tool to pull it out or can I just borrow a bearing puller from the local auto store? On the positive side, I took the Port side outdrive out today and all looks good in there, the splines were dry, not a bit of grease in sight... except on the gimber bearing, which has plenty. As for the grease to use on the splines, can I use the same as I use on the prop shaft? Last question, (for now) when I pulled the outdrives, there was this whitish paste like grease between the drive and the bell housing - is that just grease or some other material? Should I use the same type of material once I put it back together? Again, thanks for all the guidance...This is going to be a big one.
  13. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    Everyone, thank you for all the replies. I have a few more comments and questions; The current drive has the fittings, but with twin engines how to you even see behind the engines to access the fittings. I guess you have to remove the drives...which I don't think the previous owners did. Got any good suggestions, or any will do? Do you happen to have a part number for this upgraded coupler? What do I need to look for when inspecting the rubber mounts? How do I check to see if the gimbal bearing needs to be replaced, what do I look for? How often should the Stern Drive shift cable be replaced? I just ordered some but after removing the drive, the current one seams to be in good shape. As usual, this forum is a life saver, thank you all for your responses and advice. Being the starboard engine, I don't think I can lift it all the way out of the engine bay unless I remove the generator. I was hoping I would have enough room to just lift it off the mounts, slide It against the generator and remove the flywheel housing and replace the coupler while hanging in the engine bay...your thoughts on that? ya, no luck on the oak trees, the ones I could have used are gone. Here is a quick video as the storm was ending -- we're very lucky in our neighborhood, the houses are all pretty much brand new
  14. Dozer

    Need help replacing coupler to Bravo 3

    Bt Doctur I guess the TODO list is just getting bigger. So here is the plan…please let me know if I need to do anything else in regard to replacing the coupler. Because I was planning on having the heads machined like I did on the port engine -- I will be removing the heads, exhaust and intake manifolds and risers along with a few other parts, I’m thinking I can lift the remainder of the motor and move it forward enough that hopefully I can remove the flywheel cover and then have access to the coupler, without having to pull it all the way out of the engine bay, otherwise I will have to remove the generator. Do you all think it can be done this way? I initially assumed that it was the stern Drive Shift cable that it was bad, so I went ahead and ordered one. From what I could tell when I removed the outdrive, the cable looked fine. Should I still replace it, or get my money back? Also, is there a specific brand for the coupler that is preferred? Right now just searching for “Coupler Assembly 8M0098795” – the prices range from 440 to 570 deer Could have the following events caused this failure? – the engines have 300hrs each. The second time I took this boat out after I purchased it, I had a dock line that was accidentally left on the swim platform fall through and wrapped itself around the dual props, we only went a short distance – maybe 1.5 miles when we noticed it, we had to cut it out because it was wrapped tightly, and the boat ran fine after that…at least I couldn’t tell any difference. But this was about 5 months before the drive failed to engage. Also, I don’t believe the previous owners ever removed the outdrive to check alignment or to lube the splines – when I removed it there was no evidence of ANY grease on the splines. Now the gimble bearing had plenty of grease because there’s a grease nipple on the gimble housing. So, do you think this could have been the cause of the problem? I will be taking out the Port side outdrive tomorrow to check the splines and make sure that one is not also ready to fail -- fingers crossed, I don't want to pull two engines. Finally, if anyone has done this before, I could use any tips that will help this process as much as possible. Thank you very much
  15. Folks I need some help, it seams this boat just keeps giving me one surprise after another…and not the good ones! So, I finally got the boat back to Pre-Hurricane Michael condition which has been a real pain, but that will be another topic… this means I still have to work on the Starboard engine like I did on the Port engine. A week before the storm I took the boat out to test the rebuild of the port engine (thanks to wingnut for all the help) – which went very well, until I lost the ability to engage the starboard outdrive. I was hoping it was just a stretched lower unit shift cable… today I finally got the time to remove the outdrive, it came out without any issue at all. As soon as I pulled the drive shaft out, I saw a couple of long skinny metal pieces hit the ground, they were thinner than a toothpick and were in between the splines of the drive shaft…my heart sunk as I knew exactly what this was. Got the borescope camera and verified that the splines in the coupler were completely gone. Although I expected to see more metal shavings in there, but only saw another one of those long metal shavings all curled up. not sure where they went So here is the help I need; How hard is it to replace the coupler? I read that the engine has to come out, but this boat does not have much wiggle room…between the black water tank, the Generator and the other engine, it’s pretty tight. I was hoping since I plan on having the heads redone on this engine (like the port engine), and I have to remove the manifolds and risers, if it’s possible to reach behind the engine and remove the coupler from the fly wheel without moving the engine? Thank you for any info and tricks on how to get this done.
×