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Dozer

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    Panama City, Fl

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  1. Dozer

    Bravo 3 not engaging - Can I get some help?

    Well I guess I'm going to start by removing the back cover on the outboard, and check the shift assembly, then go from there....but I'm still not sure what to look for. This is a big mystery to me, the control box shifter handle (on both engines) has been engaging just fine [with the engines running] and had absolutely no indication that anything was wrong. When it happened we has just made a 10 mile run, granted the only time I had it in reverse was at the marina when we launched. Then after the 10 mile run, I was backing her up real slow, so there were no high rpms, and we didn't hit anything...this is the Florida, only sand around here, and we were in about 14ft of water. Puzzling...so if anyone that has some experience with Bravo III's can think of anything else please let me know. Also I have checked the control box and the bracket/cables on the motor -- all move as they should, so I assume it has to be somewhere in the outdrive. Thank you
  2. Dozer

    Bravo 3 not engaging - Can I get some help?

    NO, my bad... I was using both engines to backup into a spot, I was shifting one then the other to be able to maneuver, at one point when using the starboard that's when it happened. Sorry for the confusion, this is only on the Starboard drive. I guess tomorrow I will pull the cover to see what is going on with the Shifter Assembly
  3. For sure, I have a list too and it's getting longer. Ya, the previous owner really only added gas and changed the oil...he took her in the shop for a few issues, but never did much anything else from what I can tell. I got her for a good price, but right now I'm even (cost wise) with all the latest expenses.
  4. Dozer

    Bravo 3 not engaging - Can I get some help?

    There are no weird noises when I try to engage it. Has I mentioned before, I was backing up very slowly using both engines, then alternated engines to steer it into position, at one point when I engaged the Starboard into reverse it made the low wining noise almost like gears not engaging, this must have lasted only a couple seconds. I placed both engines on neutral and then was not able to engage either FW or Rev on the Strd Engine, had to use the port engine alone to finish getting into the spot. We had just made a 10 mile test run -- no issues prior to this. Also lower unit oil was changed at the beginning of the season, so about 30hrs on it. I don't have a way to get behind the engines to look at the coupler. Not sure about what you mean by the dipstick, the drive does not have one. Only the reservoir attached to the engine, and the level on it has been the same since I replaced the oil. Could this be a busted cable at the Shifter Assembly, or the Assembly itself? Thanks
  5. Dozer

    Bravo 3 not engaging - Can I get some help?

    Ya, when it's not tugging at your wallet all the time....
  6. I have not forgotten... I think it decided to remind me today. So after testing the port engine, went to back up to one of our favorite hangouts, and the Starboard gave me issues and would not engage... see my other post, I don't want to sidetrack this one with a different issue As for the testing of the port engine, not sure if its me, but she felt like it was running a bit better overall. Top speed at WOT was 43 MPH on GPS...but because my gauges are not very reliable I couldn't tell my exact RPMS and did not stay there very long... I'll have to figure out a reliable way to test it and make sure my WOT is within the limits. Is there a way to temporarily hook up a tach gauge to compare to the ones on the boat? At first the throttle was a bit stiffer than before, but I figured it out, I forgot to back up the nut on the throttle body cable. Before this issue on the port motor, my oil pressure was always low--about 40 -- but I figured it was maybe the unreliable gauges. Well today when she hit about 3000rpm the pressure was around 60 and matched the Starboard pressure. I assume this was due to the new distributer and possible the use of Mobil 1 Synthetic and a Mobil 1 oil filter, which is twice as tall as the mercury one. So the test was a success, no leaks, no excess heat and was very responsive. Heck, it brought us back to the marina on it's own as the Starboard was only on for the power steering. I can't catch a break on this B.O.A.T..... but if you remember Star Trek, the Borg "Resistance is futile" and eventually this boat will assimilate... LOL So if you have time, take a look at my other post and see if you have any suggestions. Wingnut, if you're ever in Panama City or surrounding area, I owe you a steak diner and beer.
  7. 2006 Cap 290 sig, twin mercruiser 5.0 MPI Just finished working on port engine heads/valves. Took it out for a test ride, worked fine. Backing up to our parking spot and starboard motor started making a winning noise, like gears slipping. Put both engines in neutral, could not get strd to engage forward or reverse. After parking, checked cables, and can see them moving. When i place the lever forward or reverse the prop locks in one or the other direction. Edit -- After I got home, I checked it again by putting it in gear, and the props do not lock like the port side motor, it still spends with some resistance. This happens either in FW or Reverse. Engines are still too hot to try and look behind Any ideas where i should star looking, thank you
  8. W. I can't thank you enough for all the help and guidance. After about 10hrs in/out of the engine compartment, turning wrenches and carrying parts -- She started right up, no weird noises. Purred like a kitty. I surprised myself, I expected to maybe forget to connect a sensor or a plug and hear some alarm did not happen, I guess my systematic way of assembling worked (not to mention Wingnuts advice) The only issue I had was the Angle Gauge I purchased at Oreillys did not work....not sure why, but as soon as I placed the wrench on it, the clear wheels would not spend. So I went with the alternate method for tightening the head bolts, by using the 3 different torque passes. The gasket set I purchased, had these weird shaped cork pieces (see this picture, this is not the kit I purchased) so I did use those, and to make sure it all sealed at the end points, I added some RTV Distributer went in fairly easy, I was worried this would screw up the timing. One I turned the key, I let the fuel pump pressurize the system, checked for any fuel leaks. Cranked her up, and she ran WITHOUT any noises. Both exhaust manifolds showed about same temperature (using laser gun) -- Port side showed about 10 degrees hire than Starboard, but even temp all the way across. After it warmed up, I turned off/on a few times. Everytime I started it, the engine fired up a lot faster than it did before all these issues occurred. So I just wanted to make this post, as I'm getting ready to leave for the marina and take her for a spin. I was too tired to type anything last night when I finished. Will post result once we return, we may stay out for the night. Thank you for all the help, I couldn't have done it without the help from folks here, especially Wingnut.
  9. Just a quick update. Got the heads back today. The shop owner who did most of the work told me there were no cracks or warpage. All seats were good, and the only milling done on the heads was just enough to remove surface rust. They replaced 3 intake valves, two of which I was aware, and a third one from cylinder #2 that was starting to cup. #5 exhaust valve was broken as seen on previous pics. The shop did great job, at least from what I can see... I guess time will tell. The starter was rebuilt, new brushes, solenoid and bushings. They went over the entire thing, cleaned it up and gave it a fresh coat of paint. Already installed. Exhaust flappers arrived and are installed - by the way, they don't just pull straight up. You to pop the square rubber pieces outward, then you can remove the flapper. Intake manifold cleaned and painted, removed all injectors and cleaned them. Installed fuel rail, so the entire assemble is ready to attach after valve adjustment. Old distributer has been converted to oil priming tool All the parts are in; head bolts, new distributer, gasket kit, oil, filter So tomorrow, I should be able to get most of it put together and hopefully test it out on Saturday or Sunday Anything specific I should do or not do when getting the engine ready to run for the first time? I plan on running a compression test to make sure everything is assembled correctly.... should I skip this or not? Thank you all for the great help and support through this event, I sure have learned a lot about this boat.
  10. Wingnut The pleasure is all mine, you have been a tremendous help.... and I keep asking more questions. As I prepare for the assembly, I was wondering if you can explain the "Cylinder Head Bolt - Preferred Method"? I'm not sure what the Degrees mean for each the different length bolts. When you have a few minutes if you could explain. Torque Specs Merc Small Block V-8's.pdf Edit -- I think I figured it out... I'll have to get a Torque Angle gauge to attach to my breaker bar. THanks
  11. Dozer

    Overheating at high speed

    I guess I forgot to post an update here...my bad, I don't like to read a topic that leaves out how the issue was resolved. So I just ordered new Exhaust manifolds and risers with spacers. When I took off the old parts, you could see the water jacket passageways were restricted due to the rust, and being 5 years old. Also when I took the brass caps from the bottom of the manifolds, they were full of old rusty metal shavings and other very small debris that completely clogged up the passageways. It still allowed some water to flow, kind of like water slows through sand. So when we increased speed the engines would heat up, at lower speeds it was able to keep up with the cooling. The very first time I had the overheating issue, it happened to the Strd engine, after replacing impellors and thermostats, then both engines started heating up quicker than before and at the same time. I attributed this to a lot of crud that was stuck to the cooling hoses. When I changed the impellors I moved, bent and squeezed the hoses...this caused more debris to accumulate in the water jackets, which caused more water restrictions. After installing all the new parts, the Strd engine operated great, but the Port still had overheating issues. Turns out the new thermostat I initially installed, went bad. Replaced it and fixed the issue.
  12. Best thing if you can is to remove the entire Trim Tab motor from the boat. Check that the fluid is a nice bright wine color, if its a milk pink you're getting water in the system. This happened to my tabs, the cylinders were allowing water into the system, that caused the solenoids and the motor to get all rusty and stop working. If fluid is good, then swap the solenoids - you have to disconnect the wires and the solenoids will twist over, and hook it up to a 12v source. This will confirm that the solenoid is bad. Do a search for Bennett Solenoid Valve -- one has a Red wire the other Green, once you identify which one is not working than you can order it About 40deer each A few more instructions from Bennet here Good luck
  13. I'm sold, and will use your method, thanks for explaining. Guess now I have to wait for all the parts... I'll do a bit more cleaning and prep. Have a good weekend
  14. #5 has a few very small marks --like stains-- at the very bottom -- not scratches, I can barely (again, barely) feel it when I slide my finger tip over it, it will NOT catch the fingernail at all. I tried to take pic, but the reflection from the wall messes up the pic As for the valve adjustment - I learned a different way, and was wondering if this way (I'm comfortable with) will also work. Here is how it goes; #1 at TDC -- I can then adjust Intake 1,2,5 and 7 along with Exhaust 1,3,4 and 8 Then do a full rotation so #6 is TDC -- I can then adjust Intake 3,5,6 and 8 along with Exhaust 2,5,6 and 7
  15. Leak Test It took me a while to get the test done as I kept getting sidetracked. I hope I did this right. I used a can of seafoam to perform the test, and each set of tests I left the fluid sitting in the cylinders for 2hrs (one for 3hrs) -- so I hope that was long enough Here are the results: Cylinders #5 - #8 Test duration = 2hrs #5 drained a very small amount. Measuring from the top of the cylinder wall, the difference was less than ¼” Cylinders #1 - #6 Test duration = 3hrs no difference Cylinders #3 - #2 Test duration = 2hrs no difference Cylinders #7 - #4 Test duration = 2hrs no difference Regarding compression test. I mentioned before I had not done a compression test when I purchased the boat. Today I recalled all the receipts and manuals the previous owners collected over time, there's a receipt and hand note from mechanic (March 2015) of a compression test (click here) was done. So I do have some sort of comparison to a few years ago. These are the current reading after the port engine failed: 8 = 160 PSI 6 = 140 PSI 4 = 170 PSI 2 = 140 PSI 7 = 80 PSI 5 = 0 PSI 3 = 170 PSI 1 = 0 PSI All parts have been ordered and should be here throughout next week - so with some luck and persistence I hope to have the engine assembled by next weekend Any tips on making sure the assembly is done correctly are very much appreciated.
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