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  1. Another update... This thing is trying to hold me for ever getting in the water this season... I was able to get between both engines, by removing the Exhaust Manifold/riser, and move the remote oil filter and brackets over so I could squeeze in. It was a real PITA x10 I took care of the repair, installed new trim sender/limits as I did on port engine, put the engine back together and started on the outdrive, after installing the Bell housing I torqueing the nut on the shift cable, and the end of the cable SNAPPED.. Luckily, I had a spare that I ordered a couple years ago when the drive would not engage (turns out it was a coupler failure) So I had to go through the pain of replacing it. Yesterday finally got everything done, hooked up the water to the ears to test things out. As soon as I opened the engine compartment water was pouring in... the darn quick disconnect (red) house had become disconnected. I guess I was too tired when getting things connected, I guess I did not double check really well that it was fully connected... it was hard to grab the hose, and the clip had snapped (what I assumed was connected) Now I have to disassemble the other side to access the hose, but it's being a real pain. I hope in the next few days I can get it snapped in place. Hopefully, next post will be the test results....
  2. Just ordered the tubes, getting ready to start working on the starboard engine today...hopefully I can get it done before the weekend, but it's too efing hot! Anything else I should do in this regard? I replaced the impellor and polished the raw water pump back plate. Sweet, I hope that is going to me my situation, I already have to remove too many things to gain access to the rear of the engine. Super appreciative on your comments and wealth of knowledge --- Thank you
  3. Here is an update on my water restrictions (Sorry for the VERY long post). It was a PITA to get behind the port engine, but while I was there I also replaced the Trim sending and limiting units. On the outdrive everything came out without much issue. Luckily, I did not break much except for a grounding screw. I was even able to remove the ring from the U-Joint Bellows intact . Punched out the crushed hose expander from the transom wall, and the corrosion came out very easy using a screwdriver as a scraper and a stiff pipe metal brush to clean it up. Took a little bit to get the new hose kit installed and sealed. Using soapy water (50/50 dish soap/water) to help it all slide in place, but now the opening is at least 3x what it was before. The only issue I had, was the exhaust bellows. I can’t get it to stay connected without slipping out of the Transom connection, it comes off when I raise the drive. So I disconnected it from the drive, and re-glued/clamped it to the Transom connection. ** So here are a couple questions; does anyone think this is a problem to leave the exhaust bellows disconnected from the drive? If not, should I just get the exhaust tubes and forget using bellows? We took the boat out yesterday, there were no water leaks into the engine bay. The engine performed flawlessly, the temperature never went about 156 Degrees regardless of RPM or how long we were running. The starboard engine was a different story, I always assumed 162-165 degrees was normal, but obviously not – that is the temp the Starboard engine was running and on the long runs, it actually got up to 174. A couple years back I added the Vessel View system, so I can see all the data on my Simrad that I also added previously - the analog gauges are not reliable. On the Simrad, it always had a setting for “Coolant Pressure” but I figured because it was an open system, it shouldn’t have that much pressure, and it always displayed 1-2 PSI. Well, to my surprise, the port engine now shows 1-2 PSI at idle and about 10-11 PSI at 3400 RPM. Not sure if it was me, but it seams to run smoother ( I think it’s just me So today I feel motivated to get working on the Starboard engine. This one will be a bit more work and also a PITA, as I will be removing the engine compartment lid, and the lift assembly. Then I plan on removing the exhaust manifold/riser from the port side of the Starboard engine, removing the bracket that holds the remote oil filter and outdrive oil reservoir. Hopping this will be enough for me to squeeze behind it. At this time I’m not sure if I can disconnect the water intake elbow (that connect to the red hose quick disconnect) with the power steering piston in place. ** More questions; do you think I need to remove the power steering piston? If so, how hard is that, and what should I look out for? If not, do you think I can remove the two bolts that hold the elbow to the transom wall? I keep saying this, every time I tackle a major project on this boat – “that this should be the last major thing I work on” but somehow I keep getting these sort of surprises… so I hope this is truly the last major issue. For the ones that don’t know much about my previous issues. I replaced manifolds/risers the first year I had the boat. Then I had the port engine rebuilt because of hot spots on the block that caused some valves to become warped, so I ended up rebuilding both engines (while at it, I had the Starters rebuilt) and replacing the coupler on the Starboard engine - this required the entire engine to come out. Now looking back at all these issues, I believe the main culprit, may have been this issue with the raw water intake hose through the transom being restricted due to the corrosion. One of those things I wish I have known….live and learn !!! So if you have been having heating issues, and can’t figure out where it’s coming, check that passageway. Will post an update when I get the Starboard engine all done Again, thank you for all that have helped me out, Wingnut, without your expertise, I think I would have sold this boat a long time ago, because without your help I would have given up.
  4. Ya, I wish I would have know about this issue back when I did the manifolds, or when I rebuilt the engines. Also when I rebuilt the Starboard engine, I had to replace the coupler, so I had the engine out, and had all the room to do that repair... Now I have to rely on my lacking "Gumby" skills to get myself in there. The plan is to take care of the Port engine first, take out on the water and make sure everything works. then tackle the Starboard engine. I was planning on doing all the bellows in the off season, as I don't know how old they are...but due to this water restriction, I will be doing it now... hopefully can still enjoy the next few months of the season.
  5. Tom, thanks for the tips. I sure hope this is not too far gone to where the new hose rubber piece will not seal... I tried to clear it from the inside, but there isn't much room to use tools. Having 2 engines in the bay, I feel like gumby squeezing myself over the batteries to access the back of the engine. I ordered all the parts to replace all the bellows, hose kit, oil hose and tools to get the job done. Once everything arrives, I will be removing the drive. I hope I can "punch" the mangled hose and tapered fitting from the outside-in. Then as you suggested, use a wire brush and vinegar to hopefully clear it all out. The Starboard engine will be a bit more difficult, I will have to remove at least the port side exhaust manifold/riser along with the oil filter mount, and the hatch lift motor to be able to get to the back of the engine... if it's still too tight I will remove the exhaust manifold/riser on the Starboard side of the Port engine - already ordered the exhaust gaskets. I'm hoping this is the last big job, it seems I keep having major repairs at least once a year.... W. at this point I'm going to proceed with the repair since I have already purchased all the parts/tools If I decide to go that route, can the through hulls for the generator and A/C be "T-ed" off? IF not, do I need a Through hull for each engine, or can a single one be used for both? Again, thank you to everyone for help.
  6. Just wanted to post an update on this issue. drewm3i was right, there's a restriction on the intake hose, and it's the worst case scenario, it's the transom connection. I was able to squeeze on top of the batteries to reach the transom wall on the inside, and removed the quick connect for the raw water (red) hose. Once I removed the elbow connector I was able to see how bad this was. Now looking back on previous overheating issues, I can see how this was a culprit to those issues. So my plan was to replace the bellows during the upcoming season, but now I will have to take care of it now. I have ordered all the parts and tools that I think I will need to replace the bellows and the intake water hose with an upgraded kit. I'm a little hesitant doing this job, as I have never replaced bellows before. I'm comfortable removing/installing the outdrive. I have been reading the manual and trying to watch various videos online, but I'm still not clear how to replace the shift cable bellow...do I need to pull the cable all the way out, or can I disconnect it from the housing and slide the bellow over it? Thanks for Wingnut for sending me a bunch of information, once all the parts and tools arrive, I'm going to try and tackle this beast. If anyone has done this job before, I could use any tips or tricks to avoid any pitfalls. Also what is the best way to clean and repair all that corrosion that is crushing the intake hose? Here is the photo of the Inside of the Transom after I removed the elbow connector.
  7. Thanks for the reply, I plan on put her in the water this weekend and doing a flow test to see what is going on. In the mean time I will pull the water hose from the Power Steering cooler and see if there's anything in there... I don't have an oil cooler, Any chance you can make that circulation diagram larger??? Thank you
  8. I was under the impression that piece was upgraded to a plastic connection on mid to late 2000 models....not 100% sure. Can I check that by just raising the outdrive???
  9. You're correct, I completely forgot about the power steering, I have to double check for the cooler in the back of the Port engine. The starboard engine is the one that powers the power steering, although both engines have a power steering pump... it's gong to be a PITA to get to it, with both engines in such a tight bay, I can barely reach behind either engine. Thank you...if anyone has any other suggestions, let me know
  10. 2006, mercruiser 5.0 MPI, Bravo outdrive.
  11. We must be talking about two different things. My boat does not have an oil or PS cooler. The impeller and housing I was referring to, is the raw water pump, but the previous two impellors I have replaced, were intact so there would NOT be any pieces lodged anywhere.
  12. I just replaced the impeller, the housing looked smooth, and the old (2 years old) impellor was intact and in very good condition. I actually still have the impellor I replaced in 2018 and there was never a broken impeller...so no impellor debris. It's RAW water...salt water. It's a lot of work to pull all those parts out, and go through everything...but what else can I do?? any other suggestions are very welcome Thank you
  13. I purchased this boat in April 2018. In July of 2018 I replaced the manifolds and risers on both engines because they were a little over 5 years old and the engines were overheating. This week while cruising for about 10 min with engines around 3600 RPM the Port engine started overheating. I had to throttle back to cool it off. It's been also 2 years since I replaced the thermostats and raw water impeller, so I just I replaced those, but the overheating continues. Can the manifolds and/or risers be clogged up only after 2 years? Keep in mind, I flush these engines every time I pulled out of the water. Usually about 10 min per engine at about 1000 RPMs Could the recirculating pump be bad? Also, FYI, In September of 2018 I lost power on the port engine. Turns out it was a couple of valves that failed, we figured due to hotspots on the block due to built up debris. I had the heads rebuilt, and I cleaned out the block water passage ways. I also rebuilt the Starboard engine in Jan 2019. Used the same manifolds and risers that I installed in July 2018. So here is what I plan on doing, please let me know if I'm on the right path or just wasting my time... Going to order new gaskets for the manifolds and risers, and gaskets for the recirculating pumps. Then remove Manifolds, Risers and Recirculation pumps, inspect and maybe use a pressure washer to clear any debris from the manifolds and risers. Inspect the passage ways in the block behind the recirculating pump. Also inspect the exhaust flappers. Then re-install all and see if that makes a difference. Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the studs and bolts on the Recirculating pump? Thank you for your help
  14. New pump installed, working like it should. Total cost 258 deer
  15. Ok, figured it out the motor has failed I took it out, put a plug on it, and it hums loudly and the plastic impeller does not spend...it skips and vibrates. I can also feel the motor bouncing around the sealed case. Basically the impeller is driven my a magnet. kind of like the water pumps you find if pet water dishes. So I guess I'll have to pony up 270 deer to purchase a new one
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