Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Panama City, Fl

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Once I get this Transom light figured out I will double check that it works correctly. I assumed it was like BT Doctur described Rocker on center position all lights are off Then all lights on with the rocker down OR Only the Anchor lights on the opposite position I'll update once I have a change to get in there and figure it out Thank you all for the help
  2. Sorry I have not replied sooner... Was out on the water for the last couple days. I probed both wires with the meter and got nothing. I think it maybe the ground wire, I'm getting ready to work on it in the next day or two. Thanks for looking waterdawg -- Yes the harness is also behind the exhaust hose that runs all the across the top of the engine bay. When I had the Starboard engine out a few months ago, I cleaned everything in that engine bay. There is a Ground Block right in the center of the transom behind both engines. It had a bit of corrosion, so I took it off cleaned it up. In the process of doing so a few of the wires the had the ring terminal just came off. I recall one of those wires instead of being a coper color it was black...I'm not sure where that wire went...anyway, I just took a look in there, and noticed one of those Yellow wires has black burn marks on it.... I got a feeling that maybe the wire for the light. Anyway, I'll have to wait until it get a bit cooler in the evening and get out there and figure it out. May just add a new wire as suggested. Final question - I have not used the NAV lights on this boat very much, so I need to know something about the Rocker switch for the NAV lights. Here is how mine currently operates. IF I pushed it down one way, ONLY the Red and Green light on the bow. in the center it's all light off. If I push it the opposite position ONLY the white light on top of the Radar Arch and the one in the Transom (that is currently not working) will turn on. Is this how the rocker switch is supposed to work? Thank you all for the help
  3. Last week my transom light quit, I figured the LED just went out. Got a new replacement and it did not work. Checked the voltage and got nothing. This is the light that lights up with the White NAV light on the post on top of the Arch. It's located right over the swim platform and below the transom locker. It's a real pain to even follow the wires, they are tucked behind the exhaust hose that runs behind both engines along the top of the engine bay. So I can't reach back there at all So I was wondering if anyone would happened to have the wiring schematics to help figure out where the power issue would be. Thank you
  4. Dozer

    Dash Repair for less than 20 Deer

    What material did you use to cut the new panel? Looks great!
  5. Dozer

    Dash Repair for less than 20 Deer

    I'm now down to polishing and waxing the bottom...I'm sure I will find more projects, but looking forward to this season. Not at all, I looked at it and looks like it's leveled...maybe the way the photo was taken? It's a depth gauge that the original owner installed, uses a through hull transducer. I'll have to take another look at it to make sure it's leveled... Ya that was not planned, next time I will have to purchase a wider Vinyl. Here are a few pics of the boat, some are from last year some this year. First trip last year after we purchased her Mid Season Last year Mid season last year, sister in-law fishing End of season last year, right before Hurricane Michael This year, first run after work on engines
  6. Dozer

    Dash Repair for less than 20 Deer

    I think so, the vinyl becomes very malleable and sticky when heated with a heat gun (a hair dryer may also work) I would suggest using a clean wash rag and gloves to rub into the curves. Many people use these for small curved items in vehicles. Just take your time with it. I was able to wrap it around the edges onto the back of the panels, to prevent peeling on the edges. Good luck, and if you have the time take a few pics and post them here
  7. Dozer

    Dash Repair for less than 20 Deer

    The first thing I did when I purchased the boat, was to get a cover made for that purpose..the gauges were already yellowish from the sun, and I didn't want it to get worse. I think that's something every boat owner should do to protect the helm from the sun. So hopefully with the cover this dash will last for quite a few years
  8. Dozer

    Dash Repair for less than 20 Deer

    The screen on the center is a Simrad G09 - navigation system. Its a multipurpose display that will do navigation, sonar, fish finder, engine instruments...and if your boat is equipped with radar, it will also display radar, along with cruise control and a few other automated features. The controller to the right is for my underwater LED lights in the transom, so i can make them any color I want...its nice for when cruising or swimming at night.
  9. Not sure if anyone has posted a similar project, but here it goes... Hurricane Michael not only devastated our area it did some damage to our boat, and one of those was the dash. Granted, it was not in great shape before the storm, but the high winds and rain finished it off. Removing the dash parts is fairly easy, just take your time removing all the screws and gauges. I screwed the dash panels to a board while using the heat gun and scraper to remove the old vinyl, then sand it all the way to a very smooth surface - I stopped with a 800 grit paper. Make sure you use a mild solvent to clean it up, I used isopropyl alcohol before applying the vinyl Then using a heat gun, squeegee and sharp razor I installed the new vinyl... Ya the grain on the new vinyl doesn't follow the original, but sure looks much better than before. This is the vinyl I purchased from Amazon for 12.99 -- even if it only lasts a few years, it's worth it. The entire job took me about 4-5 hrs.
  10. Update I got the entire system working, and had the Port engine re-programed. Switched the trim wires from the Analog to Digital connections. I nave not done the fuel connection, will have to purchase a new harness - about 30 deer but like the Trim Analog gauges, I will also loose the fuel gage...for now I will leave it as analog I made a quick post of the project here, in case anyone needed more details on HOW to do it SmartCraft Network to Simrad Display Thanks to everyone for the help
  11. I have received plenty of help on this forum, and most likely without the assistance of some members here I would have NOT been able to fix many serious issues on my boat. So I figured I would post one of my recent projects -- installing a new SmartCraft network to be able to display engine data on my Simrad G09 Screen and phone -- that maybe can help someone else in the future if they are trying to do a similar project. I did learn a few things from my previous post "Vessel View Link Kit anyone has any experience with it" and from contacting Mercruiser support. My boat is a 2006 Sig 290 with twin Mercruiser 5.0 and Bravo III outdrives. Mercruiser emailed me the following chart I purchased all the parts listed in the diagram, plus since the Vessel View MOBILE was on sale for 149 Deer I added that on. I ran the CAN harnesses (20ft long) from the engine bay to the helm, using the 2 inch PVC pipe on the starboard side of the boat, I should have ordered one of those as 25ft long because the one from the port engine was almost too short. I found a place under the dash to fit everything, and cut a piece of wood to mount all the parts -- See the images below. After everything was connected, I had to take the boat into a Mercruiser certified service location to have the Port engine reprogramed to read PORT (Thanks to Exoset - on my previous post) for letting me know about this. Without the reprograming I couldn't get the Mobile App to connect, once the service tech Re-programed it (only took him 10 min) all systems starting talking to each other. Basically when the engines were placed in the boat they were all programed as Starboard Engines, unless the manufacturer was installing SmartCraft technology then they would re-program the Port engine to read PORT. Once all the items were secured to the board, all I had to do was install it under the dash and connect the CAN harness from Port and Starboard engines to the Junction boxes. Connect the power to the NMEA 2000 (NK2) and connect the NK2 to the Simrad. If I have to work on this setup in the future, I just disconnect those connections and remove the board. The only thing not shown on diagram that Mercruiser sent me is the connection for the VV Mobile, I connected it directly to the Starboard Junction box, and so for less then 150 Deer I also get the data on my phone. What a huge difference from the analog gauges. For example, the coolant temp on the analog displayed 165 Degrees for Port and 175 Degrees for Starboard. Now with the digital readout on the simrad, both run about 154 Degrees ...OIL pressure same thing. I an also see fuel per hour, RPM, Voltage, engine hours, fault codes... all together I spent 1450 deer and couldn't be happier with the results. Hopefully someone will find this post helpful
  12. Well I was able to get in touch with Mercruiser support. As you mentioned, most likely both engines are configured as Starboards. They told me to go ahead and hook up all the gear I have and see what comes up...there's a very [very] slim chance that the Port engine was programed as PORT , but most likely NOT. If it's the case that both are Starboards, I will have to drive about 1.5hrs each way to the nearest service location that is not slammed busy with Hurricane Michael repairs. They confirmed it's about 5-15 minutes. I actually had one service location tell me it would take 5hrs per engine to program...I just hung up the phone! As for the Trim and Fuel connections, if I do the switching as you mentioned I will loose the analog gauges. According to Mercruiser Support, I will need a harness to connect the Fuel Sending unit to the engine. But because I don't have DTS on my boat, he said it will not help much having the Trim and Fuel input, but getting them later is not a big deal. Like Exoset mentioned, the TRIM is just a simple wire switch, and the FUEL is a 20 deer harness that plugs into a 3 pin plug. So now the plan for this weekend is to connect all the wiring and boxes and see what comes up, then if necessary spend a day driving the boat to the service location to get the Port engine reprogramed. I'll try to post some photos as I go...if I don't forget.
  13. Exoset, thanks for the helpful info on the Trim wire -- What happens to the analog Trim Gauge on the dash once you make the wire switch? Will it continue to work along with the Simrad? As for the fuel wire, where on the engine, and which engine do I plug the Fuel Sender Unit wire? Same question as for the Trim, will the Fuel gauge on the dash continue to work? My main idea to add this new system is to augment my dash gauges, I would like to continue using them, but at the same time get as much data on my Simrad as possible. I sent an email to Mercruiser Support regarding these questions, but have not received a reply yet, so thank you for clarifying these issues. According to Mercruiser Support I need to have two J-boxes, just like the diagram I posted before. They say if I use ONLY one J-Box with this current Vessel View Link it will cause engine starting and stopping issues. According to the diagram I have to then use two extra harnesses to go between the J-boxes, one is a CAN link harness, and the other a Dual Engine Instrument Adapter Harness -- I'm wondering if this Dual Engine Harness is what identifies PORT and STARBOARD engines. The Dual Engine Harness I received is Labeled with PORT and STARBOARD labels. My issue with getting a Mercruiser Tech to even look at my boat is that they are supper busy due to Hurricane Michael work. So it takes weeks or months to even get an appointment...So I was hoping with the use of all these harnesses I don't have to have the engines programed.
  14. That sucks, the folks at Mercruiser did not tell me about the programing. The Harnesses that I ordered, the ones listed on the diagram I posted, don't have any extra connections, they just connect to the plug with the purple cap on it. How do you connect to the Trim? How do you connect the Fuel Tank wire? Thanks for the info
  15. I got your PM, and right after that Machelle sent me the email with info for how to connect my twin engines, thanks for sending that info. In regards to the PVC pipe that runs along the Starboard side. On mine the cap was not glued, I had to twist and pull out the cap. It did have a warning label on it regarding the CO2, so after I ran the cables through it, I sealed with insulation and cut a notch on the cap (see image below) and taped over it after placing the cap back on the tube... so this way any CO2 in the engine bay will not make it into the cabin. As for connect my engines, this is what Machelle sent me, so now I have to order all these parts and see if I can make this work.