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Dozer

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    Panama City, Fl

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  1. Ok, this topic is a few years old... Today I replaced my filters on both engines. I'm the third owner, the previous owners didn't do much maintenance and according to the second owner who owned the boat for 3 years, he never changed the fuel filters, and as far as he knew the previous (first) owner never did it either... So the filters are at least 4-5 years old, if not the originals which would make them about 12 years old. The engines have 294hrs on them and this is what the filters looked like The disk looks pretty bad, the main filter was not as bad as I expected. The engines run fine, although I think after adding these new filters they started a little bit faster...maybe it was just me. So here is my question; The instructions refers to the canister paper filter as a water separator filter. If that is correct, where does the water go once its separated from the fuel? When I pulled mine out I did not see any water in the bottom of the filter cup. Any ideas?
  2. Dozer

    Wich manifold and risers to purchase

    Great news! The thermostat was the issue, both engines are running at normal temperatures regardless of speed or distance. So when it comes to the engines I'm a happy camper. But with everything on a boat that is 12 years old, there's always something.. I don't want to add any other issues to this topic so I'll start another regarding the failure of my Pronautic 1240P battery charger --- See my other post here
  3. Just wondering if anyone here has had issues with Pronautic chargers? My Pronautic 1240P failed. It has 120V power supply to the terminals, but it doesn't turn on. According to manufacturer, it's toast. I've only had this boat for less than a year- I'm the 3rd owner, the 2nd owner had it for 3 years, and the first purchased it at the beginning of 2007. I still keep in touch with the second owner and he DID NOT install the charger...so I don't know for sure if this charger was Original Equipment or installed after the initial purchase. If it was original equipment, than it would make it 12 years old, and according to the Tech Support at Promariner the normal lifespan for the 1240P units is about 10 years... not sure how much of this is a fact or BS. So I purchased a new one on Amazon and will be installing it in the next day or so. IF you have had any issues with this same or similar model, please let me know. Thanks
  4. Dozer

    Wich manifold and risers to purchase

    From what I can tell so far the hoses are not collapsing, they seem pretty stiff and not soft when I replaced the impeller I did check for scoring - I haven't taken the lower unit apart to inspect pass ways...., Thank you for the suggestions. I did remove the thermostat housing, and place the Thermostat in hot water along with the original ones (previously replaced) So I think I may have found the issue -- please let me know if you think is the culprit of my overheating... When the water reaches 160º the original thermostats start opening, the current thermostat did not start opening until it about 165º and DID NOT open slow and stead like the originals. It seemed to be somewhat stuck, as it would open with small "pop" like it was getting caught on something and then another "pop" and it would open some more. Comparing the originals to the current thermostat, the original ones were open twice as much as the current one. When I took them out of the hot water the current thermostat closed before the original ones. This observation of only opening half as much and struggling to open leads me to believe the Thermostat maybe the culprit -- any thoughts? I'm awaiting new gaskets, and will try to test it out next weekend trip after installing one of the original thermostats. Thank you
  5. Dozer

    Wich manifold and risers to purchase

    Well here are the good and the bad news after replacing the Manifolds and Risers; The good -- the starboard engine no longer overheats - the temp stays steady regardless of speed The bad - the port engine is still overheating at higher speeds/load -- and I spent a bunch of $$$$$$$ To recap here is what I have done on both engines - New thermostats, new impellors (old ones still had all their pieces) and new manifolds and risers with spacers So as soon as the port side engine is getting hot, and right before the alarm goes off, I can bring it to neutral and just increase the RPM's without engaging the props, and it cools down VERY quickly -- you can actually see the temp gauge dropping, then you can engage the prop and go again. After installing the new Manifolds and Risers I have done about 4 runs of about 4 miles each before the port engine gets hot - I was hopping that a few WOT runs would maybe "blow" whatever could have been blocking the cooling passages... did not work! Here is the current situation: - WOT with 6 passengers full tank of fuel and water was cruising at 43 MPH and you can see the engine temp gauge slowly rising. - Bring the boat to a stop and increase the RPM's in neutral to cool down the engine and resume cruising at about 25MPH instead of WOT -- the temp would increase slightly but will not overheat -- this lasted for a 8 mile run before we reached our location and shut it down - Shortly after shutting down the engines, I used an IR gun to measure temps and compare them between the two engines in the same locations - the temps pretty much match within (+ or -) 2 degrees Before replacing the manifolds and risers I could not go much longer than 3-5 miles at 25MPH before the engines got hot, now (no issues on starboard engine as I mentioned above) the port side will get hot after about 3-4 miles at WOT and stays above normal temperature at 25MPH cruising but does not overheat. There are no water leaks anywhere I do have a flushing kit installed, and I clamped the hose from it, thinking it could be some sort of air leak -- did not make a difference. Right now I'm getting ready to remove the Thermostat housing and inspect and test the newly added thermostat to see if it could have failed and look for any debris blockages within the Thermostat housing. I need some suggestions on what else can be causing this heating problem - getting tired of throwing $$$$ and not solving this issue. Thank you in advance for any advice
  6. Dozer

    Wich manifold and risers to purchase

    Well because I couldn't find aftermarket Riser joint spacers I ended up ordering all OEM parts do that everything matched. Found an online store in New Jersey (not sure if I can post their name here, so I will leave at that) -- it was the best price I found and because I'm retired Military they even gave me a 5% discount -- No tax and free shipping to the door is just a few days. After comparing the new to the old parts, I can really see how badly blocked the old ones are. If this is not the source of my overheating, I will be upset after spending 3400 deer on all these new parts. I'll try to post some pics of the old/new parts side by side, and then try to install all and hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can take it out and test. Also while I had the manifolds and risers off, which gave me some extra room, I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned up the engine bay. Thank you to everyone for helping out figuring out what was the heating problem
  7. Dozer

    Wich manifold and risers to purchase

    Well I guess this topic got highjacked ...lol Back to my initial questions, does anyone have experience with the Risers/Manifold kits I listed above. Also, would I have any issue mixing different manufacturers parts -- for example, using the HGE kit (manifolds & risers) with the OEM Joint Riser kit Thank you
  8. I have been searching the net for manifold and riser kits for my 2006 290 Sig -- the current ones were replaced back in 2013 by the first owner. Second owner never did anything with them except flushing. I purchased the boat in April of this year -- now the engines are heating up, and I have changed the thermostats and impellers SO I hope replacing the manifolds and risers should take care of the heating. I need some help in deciding which kit to purchase, so hopefully someone here can give me some advice I have found a few but now I'm wondering which brand to get Sierra MerCruiser kit @ $1059.69 each engine OEM MerCruiser Kit @ $1251.00 each engine HGE Kit @ $849.00 each engine this are made by HGE Marine I also need the 1.7" spacers I can only find the OEM MerCruiser V6/V8 Dry Joint Exhaust Riser 1.7" Spacer Kit So if anyone has used any the brands above, would you please give me your opinion and also if I decided to go with the HGE kit, would the Joint exhaust riser from Mercruiser work with it? can you mix different manufacturers Joint Exhaust risers with manifold and riser kits Thank you
  9. Update on the new Zinc Anodes Yep, the props and other stainless are still shinny and without the cloudy whitish coating. So I assume the problem was due to the Aluminum Anodes
  10. Dozer

    Overheating at high speed

    After replacing thermostats and impellers I have come to the conclusion that it's the risers and manifolds. I got a hold of the previous owner, and he said the owner previous to him replace them in 2013 -- so I think their are at the end of their life. So now I need help in figuring out which manifolds and risers -- I have been looking and I'm not sure which ones are correct for my boat. How do you figure out which part numbers are correct?
  11. Dozer

    Overheating at high speed

    This is the reason I post in here, good point - I will take out or pinch the fresh water inlet hose and see what happens I have not inspected them, but using a Laser infrared Thermometer the risers seem to be operating at normal temperatures without any hotspots -- that I can tell But I guess that will be my next step once I try it without the flush system being connected. Thank you all for the suggestions, if anyone can think of anything else, let me know
  12. Dozer

    Overheating at high speed

    Here is an update and some more questions on trying to solve this issue. So, I moved the transducer out of the way, and that did not help - same issues. Ordered and installed new Thermostat and Impeller kits -- The old thermostats opened at 160 Degrees when I placed them in pot of hot water, which tells me they were working correctly, but since I had new gaskets and new thermostats I installed them. Took the boat out, and the engines still overheat, but don't seem like as much as before. The alarms did not go off, but I think I was being too cautious. Have not tested after replacing the impellors, but the old impellors looked great, so I don't think this will make any difference. So now here is my question, in regard to thru hull raw water intake Currently I have a fresh water flush kit installed that "Ts" in the raw water hose (red one) right before the water pump. I also have TWO seacocks -- one for the Generator and one for the A/C. Would it help if I installed a "T" in each of the current seacocks (Generator and A/C) and plumbed to the "T" where the current fresh water flush kit connects on the red hose -- Temporarily keep the flush kit hose disconnected to see if this extra volume of water will help keep the motors cool. Here is my logic (if it makes sense) -- From what I understand, the raw water line from the Bravo 3 outdrive is a 5/8 diameter, that then feeds into the 1 1/4 RED hose to the water pump. Over time the raw water hose from the outdrive may collapse and restrict the flow due to the higher demand from the water pump when running at the higher speeds. By adding the extra supply from the seacocks, I would prevent the outdrive hose from collapsing and water would still flow from the outdrive to cool it off. I don’t use the Generator or the A/C when the engines are running. What do you all think?
  13. Well at this point I don't have much to loose - the new Zinc Anodes are on the way. Also I noticed that the current Aluminum anodes are starting to get a whitish chalky coating on them -- not sure if that is normal or not. On my other boats all I remember is the anodes would start feeling rough and overtime you could see all the pitting. Which is when I would change them. I wish there was a way to tell the difference between Zinc and Aluminum anodes...I'm not sure what the previous anodes were that I replaced. But they were fairly pitted when I removed them, specially the cone ones at the end of the props. So once I install the new ones, I'll keep you all posted, hopefully that will take care of the problem
  14. Thank you all for your responses I just ordered two new sets of zinc anodes -- now I have some serious fishing weights I can use....
  15. After purchasing the boat about 3 months ago, I replaced all the anodes on the outdrives. I have noticed what looks like scaling on the stainless props and the trim piston rods. Also the new “C” rings on the trim piston caps are rusty and only been on the boat for less than a month when I replaced everything with brand new kits. I purchased the anode kits from Amazon, so I decided to go back and look at exactly what I had purchased. They are aluminum and not zinc. My boat is in Salt water only, would the aluminum anodes not work as well as zinc anodes, and be the cause of the scaling (whitish looking coating) on my stainless props and trim piston rods? The anode kit said its for salt and brackish water Link to Amazon -- kits I purchased Thanks
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