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    Panama City, Fl

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  1. Well at this point I don't have much to loose - the new Zinc Anodes are on the way. Also I noticed that the current Aluminum anodes are starting to get a whitish chalky coating on them -- not sure if that is normal or not. On my other boats all I remember is the anodes would start feeling rough and overtime you could see all the pitting. Which is when I would change them. I wish there was a way to tell the difference between Zinc and Aluminum anodes...I'm not sure what the previous anodes were that I replaced. But they were fairly pitted when I removed them, specially the cone ones at the end of the props. So once I install the new ones, I'll keep you all posted, hopefully that will take care of the problem
  2. Thank you all for your responses I just ordered two new sets of zinc anodes -- now I have some serious fishing weights I can use....
  3. After purchasing the boat about 3 months ago, I replaced all the anodes on the outdrives. I have noticed what looks like scaling on the stainless props and the trim piston rods. Also the new “C” rings on the trim piston caps are rusty and only been on the boat for less than a month when I replaced everything with brand new kits. I purchased the anode kits from Amazon, so I decided to go back and look at exactly what I had purchased. They are aluminum and not zinc. My boat is in Salt water only, would the aluminum anodes not work as well as zinc anodes, and be the cause of the scaling (whitish looking coating) on my stainless props and trim piston rods? The anode kit said its for salt and brackish water Link to Amazon -- kits I purchased Thanks
  4. Dozer

    Overheating at high speed

    I'm going to remove the transducer from the bracket -- and zip tie it to the swim platform brace and see what happens this coming weekend when I take it out again. This is a large transducer, compared to many others out there, this thing is easily 3-4 times larger than most transducers I have seen on other boats. Ok, so I'm hopping the transducer is the problem...but I have my doubts/ If it's not then where else should I start looking? I have checked for blockages, and I have not backed into the sand or low grass areas. Thanks
  5. Dozer

    Overheating at high speed

    I just installed a new Simrad GO9 unit that came with a TotalScan Transducer – it’s fairly large as far as transducers go. According to the installation guide, you can install it in a few different places within the transom. So, I decided to install it at the lowest recommended spot, which is having the bottom of the transducer inline with the bottom of the boat. I used a level to make sure it was setup correctly and installed the bracket to the starboard side of the drain plug, and slightly above it to keep the bottom of the transducer leveled with the bottom of the boat. Took the boat out and went for a nice run, about 5 or 6 miles cruising at about 30 MPH the engines (yes both) started overheating. The first one to overheat was the starboard engine with the alarm going off, so I automatically shut it off. At first, I couldn’t figure out why this was happening, and then realized the only thing I had changed on the boat was the installation of the transducer. When you cruise at low speeds (about 5MPH) or just let the engines idle they very quickly cool down to normal temperatures. So, is it possible that the transducer is causing that much turbulence or interference to affect the water flow into the cooling holes? Later on, the day I was able to tilt the transducer up, but when I installed it, I failed to leave enough slack on the wire to tilt it full 90 degrees, I was only able to tilt it about 45 degrees. Set out for another run, at about 35mph and within about 4 maybe 5 miles the engines started overheating again, with the starboard engine being the first to overheat – as I mentioned above the Transducer is closer to the starboard engine (it’s installed on the Starboard side of the drain plug) …I just can’t imagine that the transducer would cause that much disruption. When I flush the engines, either with the “ears” on the lower unit, or the direct flush into the water pump the engines DO NOT overheat. Usually I leave the boat parked at the marina and only bring it to the house in the off season, but I brought it home so that I can maybe move the transducer up from it’s current location about 10”, but I would like to hear from someone if they think it’s the transducer causing overheating before I start putting more holes on the transom for the new bracket location. Thanks for any advice.
  6. Dozer

    Interior lights - replace with LED?

    Ok, so this is fairly old topic... I have found these replacement LED lights on Amazon. (Link) Replaced the cabin lights, they don't produce nearly the same amount of heat, and according to the info, use 80% less power... and are brighter Has anyone else used these lights?
  7. Dozer

    Correct saltwater flushing procedure

    No, this is not a closed cooling system. Someone in here has to have one of these flushing systems, and maybe give me an answer. Thanks
  8. Dozer

    Correct saltwater flushing procedure

    Iggy, I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing. I'm referring to the system to flush the motors, once you pull the boat out of saltwater. On my boat, in the transom locker....maybe this is where I screwed up with by boating terminology...I should have said that the garden hose connections for flushing the motors are located in the stern locker (not transom). So basically you attach a quick connect to the garden hose, and then push the quick connect into the desired fresh water connector. Once water is flowing through the motor then you can start it and run it at idle for about 10 min. So now back yo my original question... The boat has twin 5.0 mercs with Bravo III I was told by a friend that the proper procedure is to also add (in addition to the above procedure) a second fresh water source via muffs to the outdrives and run the motor at about 1200 rpm instead of idle. Can someone with a 5.0 merc/Bravo III and the fresh water connections in the stern locker, give me the correct way to flush the saltwater from these motors? Thanks
  9. Recently aquired 2006 sig 290. PO showed me the way to flush motors, is to hook garden hose to transom flush ports, run corresponding motor at idle for about 10 min The boat has twin 5.0 mercs with Bravo III I was told by a friend that the proper procedure is to also add (in addition to the above procedure) a second fresh water source via muffs to the outdrives and run the motor at about 1200 rpm instead of idle. Can someone with a 5.0 merc/Bravo III and a transom fresh water setup, give me the correct way to flush the saltwater from these motors? Thanks
  10. Dozer

    Bennett Trim Tabs actuator repair

    Thanks wingnut, I already have the short (3 ring) actuators. Got the new ones today, and called Bennett to find out if I could shorten the overall length of the actuators, as I don't want to move the actuators up and drill another hole in the hull. They told me to "snap" the tubes on the upper hinge off, of just cut off some of the tube length off, which will allow the piston to retract further up in the cylinder. So once I get to the boat I will try this fix... hope it works.
  11. Dozer

    New here and new boat - got trailer question

    I decided to order a new trailer, in the mean time the boat is staying at the marina where the PO kept her. Once trailer is built, I'll just put it on trailer and be done. The trailer company is right here in town, they are building a 15k #. 3 axle with 3 sets of disk brakes. Thanks
  12. Dozer

    Bennett Trim Tabs actuator repair

    After opening the actuator cylinder, I can see how some water was sucked back into the pump, the tubes inside the cylinder that attach to the upper hinge were crushed, and the pistons damaged. This is all because whoever installed the original tabs, left them with a slight downward angle when fully retracted, then when the PO moved the boat to his marina, and the forklift picked up the boat, it pushed the tabs upward, crunching the tubes. The Trim tab pump sits high up on the engine bay, there's no way water got in there that high, if so the motors would have been toast. The only way they water got into the pump was because the cylinders failed. So now I have a new pump and a new set of actuators - I will install them correctly so they are leveled with the bottom of the boat. Thanks for the feedback
  13. So I just purchased a 2006 Sig 290 a few weeks ago. After talking to the previous owner who had the boat for 3 years, he told me the Generator had oil change, oil filter and impeller replaced in Aug 2016 by his boat mechanic. Never changed the anode or spark plug. So along with a few other maintenance issues that needed to be addressed, one was the Generator, mainly the impeller and anode. The generator was having a hard time starting, and wouldn't push out much water through the exhaust. Turns out 5 of the 6 blades on the impeller were gone...go figure, I assume that it was never replaced, that thing was in really bad shape. Then I went to remove the old anode, the brass end (with the threads) was still painted white, which tells me its the original anode. When I unscrewed it, there was no anode.... WTF, so I got my inspection camera, and could even get into the hole more than maybe half an inch. From the image it looks like the remnants of the old anode, that has pretty much dissolved, but some how left some sort of wall over the upper threads. I was thinking of first using a spiral bolt extractor to try and remove the hollowed anode remnants... any other suggestions? By the way, once I change the impeller (and oil and filter) -- the gen starts right away without any hesitation and really pushes out some serious water. Now I just want to remove that left over anode without causing any damage or sending pieces of it into the cooling jacket. Thanks in advance for any help. Also, just wanted to say to all that have answered my questions so far, "Thank You", I know I only have been here a short while, and have asked quiet a few questions, I hope that in the future I can answer/help someone else, as I learn more about this boat.
  14. Dozer

    Bennett Trim Tabs actuator repair

    Well I finally got a chance to look into the actuators... I will be purchasing a new set. For some reason the person who installed the original tabs. did not set them up leveled with the bottom when fully retracted, they have (or would) a slight downward angle. The marina that I currently (temporarily) stores the boat, places the forklift arms right under the tabs, and that forced that slight downward angle to be pushed up, which in turn crushed the small pipes on the upper hinge. As soon as I opened the cylinders, they fell out and were crushed. So I figured the pistons are most likely damaged. So next week the boat is moving to the new marina, closer to our house, and will be on the trailer when not in use, and so I will make sure the trim tabs hang out from the bunks or that the bunks are not directly under need them if for some reason the bunks stick out on the new trailer. Thanks for the feedback
  15. Cool thank you for your reply