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Dozer

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Everything posted by Dozer

  1. I was under the impression that piece was upgraded to a plastic connection on mid to late 2000 models....not 100% sure. Can I check that by just raising the outdrive???
  2. You're correct, I completely forgot about the power steering, I have to double check for the cooler in the back of the Port engine. The starboard engine is the one that powers the power steering, although both engines have a power steering pump... it's gong to be a PITA to get to it, with both engines in such a tight bay, I can barely reach behind either engine. Thank you...if anyone has any other suggestions, let me know
  3. 2006, mercruiser 5.0 MPI, Bravo outdrive.
  4. We must be talking about two different things. My boat does not have an oil or PS cooler. The impeller and housing I was referring to, is the raw water pump, but the previous two impellors I have replaced, were intact so there would NOT be any pieces lodged anywhere.
  5. I just replaced the impeller, the housing looked smooth, and the old (2 years old) impellor was intact and in very good condition. I actually still have the impellor I replaced in 2018 and there was never a broken impeller...so no impellor debris. It's RAW water...salt water. It's a lot of work to pull all those parts out, and go through everything...but what else can I do?? any other suggestions are very welcome Thank you
  6. I purchased this boat in April 2018. In July of 2018 I replaced the manifolds and risers on both engines because they were a little over 5 years old and the engines were overheating. This week while cruising for about 10 min with engines around 3600 RPM the Port engine started overheating. I had to throttle back to cool it off. It's been also 2 years since I replaced the thermostats and raw water impeller, so I just I replaced those, but the overheating continues. Can the manifolds and/or risers be clogged up only after 2 years? Keep in mind, I flush these engines every time I pulled out of the water. Usually about 10 min per engine at about 1000 RPMs Could the recirculating pump be bad? Also, FYI, In September of 2018 I lost power on the port engine. Turns out it was a couple of valves that failed, we figured due to hotspots on the block due to built up debris. I had the heads rebuilt, and I cleaned out the block water passage ways. I also rebuilt the Starboard engine in Jan 2019. Used the same manifolds and risers that I installed in July 2018. So here is what I plan on doing, please let me know if I'm on the right path or just wasting my time... Going to order new gaskets for the manifolds and risers, and gaskets for the recirculating pumps. Then remove Manifolds, Risers and Recirculation pumps, inspect and maybe use a pressure washer to clear any debris from the manifolds and risers. Inspect the passage ways in the block behind the recirculating pump. Also inspect the exhaust flappers. Then re-install all and see if that makes a difference. Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the studs and bolts on the Recirculating pump? Thank you for your help
  7. New pump installed, working like it should. Total cost 258 deer
  8. Ok, figured it out the motor has failed I took it out, put a plug on it, and it hums loudly and the plastic impeller does not spend...it skips and vibrates. I can also feel the motor bouncing around the sealed case. Basically the impeller is driven my a magnet. kind of like the water pumps you find if pet water dishes. So I guess I'll have to pony up 270 deer to purchase a new one
  9. Interesting you mention that, just before this trip I completely hosed the strainer, and I checked to see if it was clear. I have been trailing this boat for 3 years, and previous owner had it in indoor rack when not in use. I'm starting to think its the pump, but before I spent the 270 deer on it, I tried this...hopefully this will tell you something So while the boat is on the trailer and hooked to shore power, I disconnected the hose from the strainer and left it connected to the pump, then attached the water hose to it, water flowed out the side drain. Then I turned the A/C on, the pump was sounding much louder (almost like a rattling noise) than the usual humming noise. I figured because there was no water, after attaching the water hose again, water flowed, but I had to have the hose on full pressure to come out the side drain and the A/C got nice and cold. If I back off on the water hose pressure, the drain would stop flowing. As soon as I remove the hose, water was actually back flowing and then off course the HFE code came up. So wondering if you have any other suggestions or should I just replace the pump???
  10. The new 2019 Dodge pulls her very easy I was using a 2005 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel, it did fine on the road, but pulling her out of the water it struggled a bit, the Dodge -- no problem Plus it has so many more safety features and great comfort.
  11. This is the first time this ever happened, why would it start now. How do you prime it?
  12. Ok, its 3:30 in the morning, we're out for the weekend. Mild temps, A/C is warm, and I see the HFE code. Went out, looked for the usual stream on the side...no flow. Went into engine bay, could feel the pump running. Seacock filter is clear, but also noticed water in the bilge that was not there earlier (not sure if this related), did not see any water leaks around the A/C water pump, been parked for a couple days in same spot, A/C worked night before without issues. Water temp is about 73, Air temp mid 70s to low 80s Boat is on trailer when not in use. Coils are clean, no water in the tray So as usual before I start tearing things up I would like some advise on how/where to start The system is a Dometic Marine Air System on a 2006 290sig Thank for any advice on how to troubleshoot this thing, before weather gets really warm.
  13. Ok, I now have a fully working Crapper The duckbills on the discharge pump were bad - one was wide open, the other slightly. I mentioned before about bracket that mounts the electric motor to the pump, it was so rusty that two of the mounting holes crumbled when I tried to remove it. I searched for a couple days to see if I could find a replacement...even buying a busted up pump or motor so I could use the bracket. No joy on that, so used some scrap metal bar a few washers and a little ingenuity, and now it's just as strong as the original. The vacuflush pump had one really bad duckbill and one that was questionable - the other two seemed ok. Now with four new duckbills, the pump creates vacuum in about half the time, and doesn't come on every hour or so. As for the filter, I followed the advise of cutting it in half. The foam ends just disintegrated, and the Charcoal Pellets just poured out. Got some activated Charcoal for fish tank, used two panty hose feet (courtesy of my wife) filled both halves of the filter. Because the filter mounts onto a plastic bracket, I used the wide flex black tape to seal the seam. Worked great, plenty of flow. To test it out I added a bunch of water to the tank, and I was near the exhaust port...could not smell anything. I did test the discharge pump... just to make sure it worked, I haven't had the chance to put the boat in the water. I had someone turn the key while I looked at the discharge port. Immediately the "Crap" started flowing out... so had the person turn off the key and rinsed the CRAP out of the grass and side of boat.... extra fertilizer The only thing that really was a pain, was to remove the Vacuflush Pump - Turns out, it's easier to remove the four nuts from the posts on the Vacuflush tank, so it slides over to give you room to unscrew the PVC connections. Unless my final test (when I able to put the boat in the water) fails..... I think I'm done discussing this crap.... or unless someone has any questions about it. For those that gave me some advice, as usual, thank you all very much... this forum has saved me not only from some major headaches, but also $$$ Final note, at least here in the Panhandle of Florida, we're allowed to take our boats out... just stay 50 feet away from other boats. So I plan on at least enjoying some of this COVID shutdowns and quarantines as much as I can.... STAY SAFE
  14. Thanks for the info, I plan on dealing with that filter also. I just never really cared to deal with this system... Where do you get the charcoal? Where do you exactly cut the filter?
  15. Ya, ya...now with this COVID19 I sure will
  16. No @#$%@#!...LOL Hopefully once replaced they will last another 12 years.... I want to deal with that system as little as possible.
  17. Here is an update on this topic from last year...I added more water to the tank, and still couldn't get it to pump out. I have to be honest, I have made it a point to understand every system on my boat, and I truly enjoy the peace of mind that I have a fairly good knowledge of how most things work....but the Toilet flushing system was one of those I really DIDN'T care to investigate...for obvious reasons. After some research I found out that the Duckbill valves are usually only good for about 2 years... I guess I have been lucky, because as far as I know they have never been changed....and if those were bad that would explain the issue. So I decided to start with the discharge pump first -- or what some refer to as the macerator. Overall the entire toilet and tank system is fairly simple, but not one of those systems anyone is eager to tackle -- The discharge pump is removed by removing the 4 nuts from that attach it to the tank posts, unplug the motor, and unscrew the 1.5 inch pipe connectors on both ends...then deal with the smell The goal here is to inspect the duckbills, in the discharge pump, there are a pair of those. They are supposed to be flat and closed, when I took a look in there, one was slightly open but the one on the tank side was wide open, therefore the pump could not create the vacuum to pump out the fluid. So I have ordered 3 pairs or duckbills. The Vacuflush part of the toilet uses 2 pairs. I figure while I'm in this "crap" I mind as well take care of this $h!tty job all the way. Plus in my setup, if you have to work on the Vacuflush, you have to remove the Discharge pump...so it's a no brainer... Due to the COVID shipping is slower than usual, so the duckbills should be here end of this week. There was also another surprise on this project. One of the floor drains is directly above the bracket that mounts the electric motor to the pump. When I first got the boat a few years ago, I noticed all the rust on that bracket mount. I fixed the leak back then and sprayed the bracket with oil to try and slow down the rusting process... well after pulling the entire assembly out, I new it was just a matter of time before that become the next problem, the bracket was literally crumbling . I search all over the net for a bracket....but no luck, they now use a different motor mount bracket that keeps the motor horizontal Vs the old style that mounts it at an angle like mine. And the bracket is only sold with a new motor....I tried to find a used or failed motor... but no luck, So I just had to get creative and made my own out of metal bar stock and a few other pieces. Will post an update if the replacement of the duckbills and the new homemade bracket will fix the initial problem of not pumping out.
  18. W, thank you for the reply. It did sound like something rattling around. Don't know what I would have done with this boat without your help over the last year. Dozer
  19. So the season is done for me here in the Florida Panhandle, so I stared my yearly maintenance to do list. The first thing was to change the oil on both engines. The engines have not ran for about a month, I hooked the water and started the port engine without any issues, and within a 2-4 seconds I started hearing a clicking noise, almost like valves clicking, but it was more of random sort of click. I ran the engine for about 15 min and got it to running temp. When I increase the RPMs to about 1500-1800 the clicking seams to go away, but it's hard to say because of the engine noise. So I carefully got into the engine bay while the engine was running, did not feel or smelled any exhaust, the exhaust manifold has even heat all the way across it. I tried to listen for the clicking on the valve covers using a long screwdriver (from ear to valve cover) and could not hear those clicks. The noise is more pronounced on the Starboard side of the motor, so I carefully reached back to the exhaust pipe where the Flapper is installed and could actually feel the very small vibration on every click. So I'm assuming the brand new flapper I installed when I rebuilt that engine 30 hours ago has failed or something is stuck in them (not sure how/what) Here is where I need some advise -- do I leave it alone, or try to remove the rubber hose from the riser to the flapper and see what is going on?? This is a real pain, due to twin engines, the space is very limited, and I will have to some body twists to get that accomplished...not to mention busting my knuckles on something else. Please let me know what you would do and why Thank you, and Happy Thanksgiving Week to everyone
  20. Just got this from the Florida DEP; "In Florida, boaters are prohibited from discharging raw sewage into the state’s waters extending 9 miles out into the Gulf of Mexico and 3 miles out in the Atlantic Ocean" Hopefully we'll get one of our pumpout stations back up so I don't have to go out that far. But hurricane Michael completely destroyed the main marina in town.
  21. Yep, has long as you go far enough, in the gulf of Mexico its 9 miles out
  22. Thank you all for the reply, if we get any warmer weather here soon, I'll give it a try after adding more water.
  23. Ok, this is the dirty part of the boat that I really DO NOT want to work on -- the toilet system! My boat, a 2006 Sig 290 has the vacuflush system and the marcerator for overboard discharge. After the hurricane last year, our pump stations are out - which we used on a regular basis - so we have to go out on open water and discharge - the first time I used it, all I did was turn the key on this picture and it pumped out. We have done it a few more times, without issues. Recently we went out, and because the season is coming to the end, I wanted to make sure the tank was empty, so I tried to discharge it, and nothing discharged...we only use the toilet once, maybe twice since last discharge, except for adding Toilet deodorizer and some fresh water via the pumpout tube. My question is - what's the correct procedure to perform the discharge, in regards to the Key and the Vacuum Pump switch on this picture Before I turn the key, should I turn off the Vacuum Pump switch and release the Vacuum by pressing the pedal???? Does the tank need to be full, or at least half full for it to work??? I'm hoping the marcerator is not busted....Ya, I know, I'll hear all about the Crappy joke
  24. This could have been catastrophic, a few weeks ago went out, but because the forecast was calling for a bit of wind we decided to do a short trip instead of the usual longer one. Before I anchored for the day/night at one of our usual spots, I checked the engine bay... to my surprise I found about 8-10 inches of water in the bilge. Turns out 2 of the exhaust clamps gave out on the starboard engine on the starboard exhaust pipe, which was letting water into the bilge. Looking further into it, the float for the pump is not working, when I manually turn the Bilge pump using the rocker switch on the dash, the water was quickly pumped out. If I just manually move the Float switch, nothing happens. Solved --- After rechecking the wires, looks like an old connection was bad -- all working now.
  25. Thanks for confirming that, I will carry a spare on board, just in case. Enjoy your time on Palm Coast, and if you decide to checkout the panhandle while you're on the south, let me know. Thank you again
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