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Curt

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  1. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    Hatem, interesting post but the answer is neither a mystery nor uncertain. To determine the correct setting, take the number of cylinders and divide into 360-degrees. In this case, like the last, the answer is 45-degrees and can’t be anything else. The required accuracy is what’s somewhat confused due to evolution over time. For example, the Volvo Penta specification is +/- 2-degrees on this engine/ECM combination. On earlier engines/ECM combinations it’s +/- 5 (with a specification of 42-degrees). The tighter of the two will work in any engine/ECM combination. The larger may or may not, and if it does, it will fail the distributor early as the esteemed Wingnut pointed out. Please don’t confuse the above with TDC or timing. That’s a different matter, and before the advent of Crank and Cam position sensors, was manually set. Now, provided Cam retard is set correctly by aligning to the number-8 stamped into to base and adjusted to the specification for the engine/ECM combination, the ECM adjusts, optimizes and controls timing to keep everything in harmony.
  2. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    The engine is not catalyzed. The ECM has had O2 capability for a long time, albeit on your’s unused. If you think you’ll get a 2012/2013 or newer boat in the future, suggest spending the extra. Another consideration or two. A mobile shop will charge $100 to $300, as will a dealer. But, in the spring you might have to wait in line.
  3. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    Your engine should not be catalyzed. To confirm look at each down elbow and see if there’s a sensor (O2) at the 3 pm and 9 pm position (starboard and port down exhaust elbows respectively), catalyzed. Two other telltales. Were the exhaust manifolds heavy cast iron or aluminum? If aluminum, catalyzed. Are they “rounded” or squared off/block type shapes? If “rounded”, catalyzed. Suggest the more capable tool for $100 extra (next boat). If unsure, please post a picture of the manifold. Best.
  4. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    Wingnut is referring to Rinda’s TechMate when mentioning “handheld” and not Diacom. A quick call to Rinda will confirm if TechMate reads Cam offset. I don’t believe it does. Regardless if Diacom, which does read Cam offset, or TechMate, a pigtail is needed to connect. Rinda can tell you which one or if you post a picture of the plug-in on your harness, this forum will answer.
  5. Curt

    Impeller Part Number

    1. The part number is 21213664 (also goes by 22307636). On your motor is a sticker with maintenance component part numbers. If closed cooling, it’s on the reservoir. If freshwater, it’s on the top cowling. 2. Volvo Penta’s web has your engine listed: www.volvopenta.com, then “Products”, then “Marine Liesure”, then “For Owners”, then “Your Engine”, then “Manuals and Handbooks”, then enter your Serial Number or Product Number into the appropriate block or V8-300-C-A into the Product Designation block (A251246 is your Serial Number; 40869423 is the Product Number). Then hit “Search” (return/enter doesn’t do anything). You can also access an e-catalog with schematics by following the link that is displayed. If desired, the mechanical maintenance manual can be purchased from a dealer.
  6. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    The tool doesn’t set the retard, it just allows you to read it with the required accuracy (+/- 2 degrees). Adjustment is by manually moving the distributor, and reclaimping. RPM’s must be 1,000. Don’t sweat it. If you follow the instructions you’ll be very close and it will fire up. Also, depending on which data connector you have it might be possible to do this without a “scan tool”. Rinda will do it. Vodia, Volvo Penta dealer only, isn’t necessary. P.S. I can email both manuals if you need them.
  7. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    Cam offset, Cam retard angle, Cam retard offset, Cam retard, etc. It’s called a bunch of things, but each refers to the same thing. If you’d post a picture of your data link connector, it might be possible to jumper it depending on which is installed. It should be located on the starboard side, near the front. 2008 could be one of two styles; one can be jumpered and the other not and angle only read by a scan tool such as Rinda, Vodia (dealer only). Your’s is likely the type that can’t be jumped.
  8. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    Wingnut, great video. The number “8” is molded into the distributor base. Align the rotor to this. Needs to be close.
  9. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    With the flat top style distributor, Bt Doctur is right on and the flat on the distributor faces motor front. At startup, if a code appears and won’t clear, the distributor is incorrectly installed and time to repeat. Timing isn’t set, Cam angle is. Provided the distributor and rotor are installed correctly, along with crank and cam position sensors, the ECM takes care of it.
  10. Curt

    VP 5.7 GXI-j Distributor Timing

    What year and model (confirm -J) was the donor engine? With this information I’ll be able to confirm in the morning.
  11. Curt

    Windless anchor for a 276 ssx

    Bimini poles are typically platted. From time to time you see stainless. Look on the inside and you'll know. Regarding cleats and those kinds of things, they are generally stainless. Easiest way to tell is to look at the underside. If no corrosion, stainless. If heavy, stainless. It takes a lot and you can't over do it. Dab, dab away. FWIW it does take time to get the wheel fully loaded, so what you've described is normal. Likewise, using the edge always polishes better. Keep up the great work.
  12. Curt

    Electrical issue

    Denny, a chip or two from the fringe. With clicking of the starter and the windlass motor, voltage is reaching both and this points more to a low voltage issue and not the isolator (which would generally kill or not allow voltage to pass through it). Hatem and Cyclops suggestion of jumping from a known good battery is a quick and relatively easy way to determine if low voltage or not. Basically, if only clicking, time to pull out the multimeter and check for loose connections (starting with the negative). If the motor turns over, either the batteries need a good charge or they've failed.
  13. Curt

    New H2O sport

    Great looking boat. Enjoy it. And, most importantly, thank you for your service.
  14. Curt

    Ideas remove fuel from tank

    Consider using a self priming fuel rated liquid transfer pulp if you really want to empty the tank, and not use Sea Foam or Sta-Bil. Both Sea Foam and Sta-Bill will work effectively provided the correct quantity is used. It’s best to run the engine a bit to pull it through the fuel system.
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