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Curt

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  1. Curt

    Duo Prop Repair

    Time will tell. Fingers crossed.
  2. Curt

    Duo Prop Repair

    We've had better days boating for sure. Took the props in (PropMD, Plymouth, Minnesota) (http://www.propmd.com/). The quote... "these will be alright". Given I dropped off and will pick-up, price is about $250 for the pair (too low if you ask me, but...). Be ready in about a week. They have a really nice shop, are very knowledgeable and also sell all kinds of new. Really know props. A plus, their system generates text messages which keeps you informed as to where in the process your props are. Pretty cool. I guess we'll see how this turns out mid-next week. Attached are a few pics. Front, a few dings/nicks and scratches. Rear, a couple of bent blades, a few dings/nicks and scratches. (FWIW. Seems the design is exclusive to Volvo Penta, and no aftermarket.)
  3. Curt

    Yamaha F150 or F200?

    I don’t have your boat. But the recommendation and “old wive’s tail” larger is better is because no one ever complains or is unhappy with too much power.
  4. Curt

    Duo Prop Repair

    Going through a tight channel Sunday morning, an opposing boat late to the party decided to push through while I was exiting the bridge and midway through the pinch point. Pushed the bow into the z-pile, stern into the abutment and the starboard engine caught some rip-rap. As to prop repair, Nettles Props in Texas for example. They have a few YouTube videos, one of which is a duo prop repair. I guess my question isn’t so much about duo prop repair, but rather stainless prop repair. Whether Volvo, Mercury or other, stainless is stainless if the shop has the proper pitch blocks/forms, welder and wire, heat treatment, skill, etc. My belief prior to watching the video and reading through a pair of websites was repair isn’t possible (so be careful when boating out there). I’ve always considered welding stainless more difficult compared to carbon steel and aluminum. A lot more heat, and with higher temperatures comes distortion, etc. I don’t know... so the post. Denny, Minnesota. Thank you. Discovered a local shop. Headed over this morning, props in hand to talk. Before discovering this, was leaning toward Nettles.
  5. Curt

    Duo Prop Repair

    Has anyone had a stainless Volvo Penta Duo Prop repaired? Looking for real experiences to prove/disprove what's on the internet. Along the way I've had a few single three and four blade aluminum props repaired, and they ran as good as new. Never had a damaged stainless prop until now... Damage is much less than what's depicted on a YouTube video showing a repair. On the rear, 2 bent blades and 1 nicked. On the front, a few light nicks on each blade. Thank you.
  6. Curt

    Pronautic 1240P Battery charger Failure

    Yeah, the added weight and bulk are relevant. Agree for sure. If I recall correctly, for 8 gauge to equal 100 pounds, length is something like 1,000 feet. At any rate, far greater than what you’re dealing with. Oddly, I’ve always thought about adding a couple hundred pounds to the bow. Was talking to a buddy last night about it. Seems to me, at least with the boats we’ve had, they run better with more weight in the bow.
  7. Curt

    All analog gauges failing intermittently

    You have a great boat. At any rate, probably just a loose wire since all of the analog gauges drop out together. There is a terminal block that ties them all together. Mine was behind the helm (we had a 2009).
  8. Curt

    Pronautic 1240P Battery charger Failure

    Mine is powered by what looks like a 90 Amp breaker, while the feeds appear to be 8 or 6 gauge. If you'd like me to verify, I can with a bit more effort. At any rate, the point. They feed a pair of posts in the bow hatch, and the windlass is connected via these posts (albeit with much lighter gauge wire). I've not researched a bow thruster and don't know its power draw, but you have. Spitballing a bit here, but a pair of posts and a sub-breaker so only one of the windlass or bow thruster receives power at a time might be a possibility (think of this as a remote distribution block, with protection so only one of the appliances is powered at a time). Granted it's best to pull a separate feed for a bunch of reasons, but if done properly, you'll save complexity by not needing another battery and charger, weight and a few bucks. The house battery will continue to charge via the alternator when the motor is running, and shorepower when not (your new Pronautic). Another consideration, alternator output. Typically, marine alternators are larger than their automotive counterparts on the same base engine, but this historical "rule' is converging since there's vastly more electronic stuff on vehicles nowadays. At any rate, you'll just want to verify that output is sufficient to charge the house battery (timely) given the additional draw. Food for thought.
  9. Curt

    Used 307 or new 287

    A smaller flag might do it also. I hear you on the socket. No idea if one of those is made. You could always take the socket out, cut the flange off and weld a straight piece in.
  10. Curt

    Used 307 or new 287

    I see what you mean. But, it looks great. How about a tube/conduit bender and putting a slight bend in her?
  11. Curt

    Pronautic 1240P Battery charger Failure

    Hatem, our windlass is powered from the house batteries and has a dedicated breaker.
  12. Curt

    Pronautic 1240P Battery charger Failure

    I forgot. I’ll check this morning.
  13. Curt

    Replacing Bilge Pump Questions

    Thank you for the update. Good luck with the pump.
  14. Curt

    Replacing Bilge Pump Questions

    Proper approach. Good luck. Been meaning to ask, how did the motor mounts turn out?
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