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Curt

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  1. Curt

    2006 330 Signature Engine Mount Cracks

    It's your decision. I wouldn't touch it unrepaired, even with a survey. When dealing with these kind of issues where the true extent is unknown, it can be expensive because part of the repair is diagnosis to determine the extent. If I really loved the boat, I'd make the purchase contingent upon proper repair. As to when the count a particular boat out, these cracks are not a tear in a seat, a damaged prop, a missing ladder, a radio that doesn't work, carpet that is dirty, etc. - things that are easily quantifiable and not structural. These cracks, while the extent is unknown at present, could be major or minor. Until a qualified shop, one that you will pay to diagnose and repair, can investigate and quantify, it's a guess.
  2. Curt

    Thru Hull Exhaust Water Leak...help pls

    I'm laughing as I read your post, because, yes, I've been down that messy road before and you are right. Whether white or black 5200, when trying to wipe away excess it smears all over and is a pain to remove from everything (including your hands). So, the moral is, use the right amount, no more and no less, and don't mess with it. Agree with gaskets provided they are available. Even if they aren't, you can make a set easily. The key here, fix the leak and don't ignore.
  3. Curt

    2006 330 Signature Engine Mount Cracks

    To purchase or not is your decision. I would not. $7,000 is insignificant compared to a potential structural issue, that to correct, worse case, requires pulling the engines. Have the seller fix to your satisfaction. Yes, you might pay more, but you'll have peace of mind.
  4. Curt

    Thru Hull Exhaust Water Leak...help pls

    Whatever you decide, do it right. If ignored or "caulked around the edges" this non-problem could become a major problem. "Caulking around the edges" could hide the problem, and cause a much larger issue to develop over time. There are probably gaskets on both sides (outside/inside) that just need replaced, or the bolts re-torqued. Regardless, disassemble, clean, replace the gaskets (if so equipped) and use 3M's 5200. Spread the 5200 evenly, on both sides, and after the bolts have been torqued properly, wipe away the excess. Follow 3M's directions regarding dry time. Don't rush it and compromise your hard work by cheating dry time. Jdsdls05 has a great point regarding fabricating a stainless plate. This is a great idea. Don't panic, this is an addressable issue.
  5. Curt

    Volvo Penta Complaint

    WaterDr: Thank you. But, the warranty in effect at this time is 2 + 3. The first two years, for leisure use and no more than 600 hours, covers the complete engine and drive package. It's Volvo Penta's standard warranty for this model year, and is not an extended warranty. After the first two years, for the next three, major components, as defined within the written warranty statement, are covered. The warranty on parts purchased and installed subsequent to the original in-service date for the particular engine and drive package is currently 12 months, 24 months if installed by the dealer. While Volvo Penta may have certain warranty and/or service/maintenance programs underwritten by a third-party(ies), the standard warranty isn't. Further, and while they may have recall and/or completed operations insurance (not to be confused with product liability insurance), the customer interface would still be Volvo Penta and any applicable insurance would be far removed from the customer, and the customer would never interface with it. The dealer is helping. But, it's not their fight. Had I waited for the dealer to inspect, we'd still be off the water for several more weeks. This is a very straightforward matter where Volvo Penta has simply taken a position contrary to the applicable written warranty. I didn't write it, nor did Chaparral. If Volvo Penta desires exclusive use of their dealer network for any and all warranty matters, the existing langue must be rewritten. The important fact remains, as currently written, for this situation, the language (rather, their language) obligates Volvo Penta to furnish the part irrespective of whether or not the dealer installed. (For each the vehicles we own except one, the warranty is written such that the dealer must handle all warranty matters except when the situation occurs more than 100 miles from the nearest dealer.) Bt Doctur: Thank you. Possible, but fairly difficult given hose orientation/routing and what's behind the pump that cannot be moved. I guess, at the extreme, I could say to heck with Volvo Penta, remove the engine and drive packages and install Mercury. This involves a bunch more work with the electronics, and is not just mechanical. In my opinion, if that upset, I'd be better off ordering a new 307 SSX (or a 337 SSX) with Mercury engine and drive packages. Cyclops2: Anyone that runs any business should from time to time during the year, pose as a customer and see how it really works (or doesn't). Perception and reality are often far, far apart. To your point, I believe it would be addressed timely, and correctly. "Inside" consumers always have a better path to resolution, compared to us paying customers.
  6. Curt

    Volvo Penta Complaint

    Makes sense. Based on our experiences, if less than 35 feet and open bow, Chaparral. If 32 feet and above and cabin cruiser, Sea Ray perhaps another brand or two but not Chaparral. We live on a large freshwater lake, albeit with a limited boating season, and the 307 SSX and 337 SSX just fit well. Twins are overkill, but somewhat necessary when greater than 30 feet. If we were where you are, the Carolinas or in Florida, a big Sea Ray or a larger center console (as you point out) would be our choice.
  7. Curt

    Volvo Penta Complaint

    Volvo Penta does exactly what you say - multiple sources and part numbers within a given model year and from year to year. It's one of the reason their dealers have a hard time supporting their products, and what can stymie anyone somewhat handy. A simple build-sheet would solve the problem, or a better solution, stable engineering and sourcing. At any rate, at this time, the only way to know for certain is to remove and I.D. The pump shaft is actually supported by two bearings. One of my initial reactions was wow, only one bearing, not good. But then, my eyes wandered back to what the pulley remains bolted to (the pulley is not removed when changing the pump). Voila, enlightenment and satisfaction. Not saying there isn't some lateral torque, there is given the belt (it's driven by a separate "tension" belt; not the serpentine). But, it's not an overhung or cantilevered load to any significant extent. This pump has been superseded once. No idea why. One of the many wonderful things about this boat is the engine compartment. It's huge. You can stand, sit, lie down, whatever. The front of the engines are the most accessible of any boat we've had. The sides and rear, well, tighter and harder to get to. All told, to change the pump, keeping in mind this was my first change on this model, less than 30 minutes. It took longer to gather the tools, walk down to the dock, clean-up and walk back to the garage. The impeller was 15 minutes, about the same as our previous Volvo Penta (5.7 L, GXI with Duo Props). Mercury has better customer service, hands down, and a more stable engineering and sourcing approach. Given how Volvo Penta has handled this minor matter to date, when we buy another boat in 5 to 7 years, Mercury, Mercury, Mercury. If Chaparral chimes in and supports, we'd go with the 337 SSX when it's time to upgrade. If they don't, we'll look elsewhere in the 35 to 45 foot range. But, I doubt they will as demand is high, and memories of the 2008 to 2010 timeframe fleeting - fat, dumb and happy as they say. When we last purchased, it was smack dab in the depths of the worse recession I've witnessed, and most builders were shutdown or shutting/slimming way down (including Chaparral). Flip side, great service back then, because their job literally depended on it. Twins are different for sure, and more than just the obvious increased fuel consumption. Still getting used to the concept, but not sure I'd have anything else now. I believe you'll love them.
  8. Curt

    Towing tube from 264

    Great boat. We loved our 264 Sunesta. No need to use the transom trailer eyes. Take a peak below your rear facing seat, and above the swim deck. There's an attachment point there. As others have said, don't use the Arch for tubing. The rope submerging somewhat in sharp turns is normal. It pops back out. Enjoy.
  9. Curt

    Volvo Penta Complaint

    P.S. Forgot to mention, I'm not dealing with an extended warranty. The 2 + 3 warranty is the standard warranty Volvo Penta for our engine/drive package (2016). I believe this structure was introduced with the 2013 model year (I could be wrong though).
  10. Curt

    Volvo Penta Complaint

    The OEM (Volvo Penta). For the 2016 model year, the warranty is what they market and refer to as 2 + 3. For leisure use during first two years and 600 hours, everything is covered (i.e. the entire installed package). For the next three years, defined major components are covered, subject to a number of conditions. Currently, Volvo Penta doesn't offer a rebuild kit for this pump. I'm not saying it can't be rebuilt; it can (press the pulley carrier off the shaft, disassemble, source the bearing and seal, reassemble, etc.). Being a guy that knows a few things about bearing and seals (I'm an ex-bearing guy), they are commercially available. Upon proper disassembly, part numbers will be known. What strikes me as odd, other than the denial, is the engineering and specification process. To me, this appears to be a situation that I refer to as stepping over $$ to save nickels. Please consider this pump uses a full bronze body, which is more expensive than certain alternatives with less life expectancy, coupled with a very inexpensive bearing and seal made where quality often isn't given due consideration. In an effort to save about $4 compared to western Europe and U.S./Canada production, and spending two to five times more on the full bronze body, Volvo Penta stepped over $$ to pick up nickel or two. At the end of the day, assuming this $4 was important enough to sacrifice reliability and one's brand, price the engine/drive package and thus boat $16 higher. With a Chaparral list greater than $200,000, an engine/drive package with an approximate cost of $20,000 per side and a retail pump at $400, what's an additional $16? Not much in comparison. Stepping off the soap box, I fully agree with your comments regarding mechanism of failure. If Volvo Penta had a repair kit, I'd certainly take one and be happy. If Volvo Penta offered to repair, I'd certainly take it and be happy. In absence of one or the other, the proper course of action, under Volvo Penta's warranty for this situation, is replacement. (Please keep in mind, they'd cover if their dealer completed the repair, I didn't ask for labor (my time) and use of the dealer isn't required per their language unless labor is claimed.) To deny a claim that is covered by their own language, language which neither you, I or Chaparral wrote, is unconscionable, wrong and subject to overturn via civil action if someone was motived enough to challenge. I enjoy your posts. You are one of the more knowledgeable posters on this site, and help a great many people navigate a multitude of issues.
  11. Curt

    Volvo Penta Complaint

    We have a 307 SSX (2016) with dual Volvo Penta V8-300-CE-G engines and duo prop outdrives (freshwater lake use). At approximately 18 hours, yes 18 hours at 21 months, the starboard engine alarmed - high temperature and high exhaust temperature. Shut the engine down and headed home. Not knowing what the issue was, pulled out the manual. Number one on the troubleshooting list is impeller. Ordered two from Volvo Penta (part number 2170045; should always have at least one anyway). During the week, received the impellers, and then on the weekend, removed and replaced on the affected engine. Same faults. The next business day (Monday), called the two authorized dealers in the vicinity of our lake. One had a two week lead-time to inspect, and then a separate lead-time to obtain parts and repair based on the inspection. The other was too busy and couldn't set an appointment. Ultimately, scheduled an appointment two weeks forward and began deeper troubleshooting. Ruled out the impeller, obstruction(s), air and water leak(s), scored pump housing, bad sensor(s), etc., but then noticed a slight grease/oil spray pattern under and perpendicular to the pump. Given signs were pointing to the pump, and we'd rather boat sooner (we have a short season), ordered a new pump from Volvo Penta (part number 22031242). At the time I recall thinking boy, sure hope it's the pump; but boy, sure hope it's not the pump because how could a critical part fail with such few hours. At any rate, the new pump was received that Thursday and I installed it the next night; problem solved. Then, when back up in the garage, looked at the original pump thoroughly and pulled the impeller after seeing a few odd indications. The bearing looks to have failed; grease was leaking and the shaft had about 1/4 inch lateral movement. Basically, this movement created a leak and the system couldn't prime. Called Volvo Penta the next business day (Monday, and still one week from the scheduled service appointment) to make a warranty claim and suggest they inspect this pump. The warranty is 2 + 3 years, which means during the first two years the entire engine and drive package is under warranty provided use is leisure and hours 600 or less. Given both conditions were met, figured Volvo Penta would readily honor the approximate $416 claim and either issue a refund or send a no cost replacement. Even composed and emailed a detailed write-up, including pictures and a request for inspection and root cause (hopefully this failure doesn't portend an endemic issue with this pump and a lurking recall on engines so equipped). Much to my dismay and shock, Volvo Penta denied stating the warranty is 12 months. After correcting the misstatement, the denial was changed to the dealer didn't complete the repair. I pointed out their language doesn't obligate use of the dealer, and now, after three days, no response. I'm shocked and saddened that Volvo Penta denied a valid claim this way; used the wrong warranty initially and then contrary to the plain language of the correct warranty, and is now not responding. I'm also disappointed with their silence and indifference regarding inspection. At a minimum, Volvo Penta should know which warranty applies, honor a valid claim consistent with their language and be interested enough to want to inspect a pump that failed with approximately 18 hours of use, within the first two years. Such great engines and drives (Volvo Penta), such poor service that it makes me want to go back to Mercury Marine.
  12. Curt

    What does this wire go to?

    Richard, that is certainly a possibility. Great point. Volvo Penta uses an active galvanic protection system on newer boats complete with LED status indicators, but I don't know the cutoff year, whether or not this was available/included on a 2002 and whether or not this boat is equipped with a Volvo Penta or Mercury package. Usually though, terminations for unused wiring are not a ring terminal. To me this suggests it was once connected to something - likely something important. A picture, two or three should clear it up along with knowing the engine package.
  13. Curt

    What does this wire go to?

    In general, green wires indicate ground. Given there is an attached round terminal ring, it's more likely than not that this was once attached to something. While wiring harnesses are universal and almost always have unused wires covering available options for a model year but not present on a given boat, they are always terminated via a plug end (usually female). Without a picture and knowing the exact engine package installed in your boat, it's impossible to say for sure, but given your description, this was likely attached to the fuel fill neck. It's important to ground metal and most types of plastic fill necks to harmlessly discharge static and prevent ignition (yes, most plastic types are electrically conductive). While I don't recall with certainty, I believe there is a federal regulation that requires grounding.
  14. Curt

    Sunesta raw water intake screen location

    The intakes are on the lower unit, one on each side, and are located forward and slightly higher than the props. They are black and standout against Volvo Penta's gray paint. One has a pair of flat head bolts that are visible. Each has "scoops" that are angled forward to "catch" the water. In addition, there is a small (1/8 inch +/-) hole in the leading edge of the casting at a height about midway between the top and bottom of each inlet. Typically this hole is located within a "v-notch" in the casting. It can be overlooked and/or confused easily. While I wasn't there, it sounds like the alarm and shutdown was caused by the open flush port. If left open, the system will not prime and generally there is no or limited water flow which causes the alarm and subsequent shutdown if overlooked. Something to keep an eye on now is the raw water/sea water pump impeller. These are somewhat susceptible to damage when overheated due to water flow restrictions. They are easy and inexpensive to replace, and many do so annually. Just keep your eyes and ears open for additional symptoms of overheating. Without knowing which engine you have, it's hard to guide you to where to look on your engine. In general, the raw water/sea water pump is on the lower front of the engine, is belt driven (by the main serpentine belt or by a small separate "tension" belt") and has a separate inlet and outlet with a rubber hose attached to each. Typically, the inlet hose is a larger diameter than the outlet. The impeller is located behind the flat cover that has either 3 or 4 small bolts securing it to the pump body. It takes less than 30 minutes to change If you are somewhat handy, and the cost for a new one is around $50. Stick with Volvo Penta parts. Your probably okay, but it's best to keep your eyes and ears open for a little while.
  15. Curt

    Question - Trailer

    Closing this thread out. From the bow eye to the drain plug is 28 feet. If the winch roller is set to 28 feet on the Venture VATB-12625 trailer, the transom (drain plug) sits 6-inches in from the end of the main bunks. In this position, the boat's weight is evenly distributed over the three axles and the transom is fully supported (doesn't overhang). The trailer I purchased included electric/hydraulic brakes instead of surge. I highly recommend this option given all of the weight. While it added about $600 to the trailer's price, the trailer is much safer to operate and very stable even in heavy traffic. $600 compared to safety is priceless; to the value of the boat, about one tank of fuel - miniscule. The 29 foot dimension the dealer referenced is incorrect. FYI I too called Chaparral with no response. This dimension should not be secret on any boat. To help any future owner of a 307 SSX, if you prefer a Road King trailer, the model number is RKAV 26-28TRB3 10700 LB Net. A reference VIN is 5KZVBB2838JA053120. With this information, Road King can build a trailer to the exact dimensions of the 307 SSX. Please note though, your transom will overhang the bunks and the bunks are approximately 18 inches longer than the rear most supporting cross member. Happy boating.
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