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Curt

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  1. Any chance you can share more history? For example; new to you boat; overheated and now this; what lead to replacing each of those parts; when cranking, RPM; hours; compression numbers; has a diagnostic computer been hooked up and if so, findings; and serial number. The short story, without more information and background from you, guessing is about all that’s possible. With all that’s been replaced, trying to avoid that. Just too expensive. Thank you.
  2. I show 23194833 and 3883170 for your serial number, with stock availability. 23870794 is a valid part number with stock availability as well. It might also be for your motor but I’m unable to confirm.
  3. 5.0GXi-F, non-EVC. The kit and cable are respectively 23194833 and 3883170. Functionality is limited compared to a motor with EVC and those after MY2009. Basic data will be displayed, but diagnostics and fuel level will not for example. It’s a good app, just limited in your case.
  4. Please post the serial number (of the motor). Not all motors were compatible in 2006. Thank you.
  5. Correct, the salvage boat has a fixed arch. The 347 SSX doesn’t have a foldable arch to this time.
  6. Very interesting @jdsdls05. Thank you. @BoatNH, this is a 337 and wider/longer than yours. I’ll confirm (attempt to) that the arch is foldable, and the same as yours. If foldable, even if wider, the mechanisms will be transferable for your project. Perhaps we go in together. My interest is other than the arch. PM if interested and I’ll share my cell so we can chat. Thank you.
  7. 5.0GXi-E. In addition to the flush port and rear cooling line for the full pump, two other hoses route behind.
  8. Doctor, morning. The OP has a Generation V 5.3L direct injection with variable valve timing not a conventional 5.7L MPI. Different pumps than what’s identified above. If he/she would post more, we might find a work around depending on which pump is at issue (there is a low, high and “higher” on this motor) and what’s wrong. If the body hasn’t failed (i.e. not cracked, not leaking, not…), it might involve swapping a low or a high cartridge from a different assembly. If the assembly is bad, a new base can be machined and the low and high transferred. If the final high pressure pump is the issue,
  9. Yep. Since which engine isn’t posted and the OP, which described subsequently attaching a hose (which means the cap was off and hose attached in lieu of), those of us not there cannot be certain without more information from you.
  10. Please post a serial number. It will help. Now for questions. (1) Which fuel pump… the main low/high pressure assembly mounted front of engine or the high pressure pump mounted on top? (2) What exactly was tested and results please. Your description points to the main low/high assembly. But, the “up to 8 seconds to turn on” might not be the pump and could electrical, the electrical harness or the ECM. The system energizes with key on, and the pump starts spinning. They don’t generally “fail” with a delay. They either energize and start spinning within a second or two or don’t. Betwee
  11. It’s a 2005. Could be old age. From a safety and reliability standpoint, hoses should be changed at about 10 years (depending on few other factors of course, such as annual usage; part of country; how stored; whether moored, lift kept or trailered; etc.). Could be rubbing. Could be a loose clamp. Could be… A picture would help a lot. Knowing the specific engine will as well. Not picking here, but “Got it to start.” has nothing to do with a leaky hose. A leaky water hose will not cause a no start condition. Could ruin the fuel pump and motor, but it’ll start.
  12. Unfortunately, discontinued and not superseded. Options are, as @Wingnut offered, weld, machine new or locate used. Keep on eye on eBay. A used one sold about 2 weeks back. This part and that part of the system on that small group of motors, is funky. No aftermarket. If you don’t go the weld route, and strike out locally on machining, send a PM.
  13. Please post serial number of the motor. If fuel injected, yes the fuel pump assembly is cooled. Could be as simple as a loose connection or bad hose. There are two. With serial number, informed guidance can be provided.
  14. An alternative since Upside’s issues were very involved, start a new post and provide engine and drive serial numbers, what the issue(s) is(are) and what’s been done to this point. The more information the better. Rarely do two postings have the same solution on complex issues such as Upside’s.
  15. Morning. Sorry, couldn’t review midweek. Bank 1 is lean. Typically if fuel pressure, both banks are affected not one. Suggest a few things. There is a regulator with a screen on the pump assembly. Pull it, check and clean/replace. Check fuel pressure on low and high side and then on each side of the rail. This is a pain. On the rail, to do the one side, you pull the inlet. On the other, the far side, is a valve. If both okay, likely a restriction in bank 1 rail or clogged injector. Can isolate with a drop test. If one or both pumps are hot to to the touch, this indica
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