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Curt

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  1. Curt

    Getting Spare Ignition Keys?

    Suggest a mobile locksmith, or replacing the ignition switch. If newer, you might also contact a dealer with the hull number. Junking the boat over a few bucks to about $100 doesn’t seem necessary.
  2. Agree. The boat’s not going to sink that fast. I’d take some precautions though (extra plug and wrench, wrench tied off, goggles, etc.). Dying to learn why.
  3. Curt

    Port Enginer Error Code

    The first thing to rule out is a communication issue because the warning and engine shutdown is the same as an actuator failure. From a probability standpoint, a communication issue is more probable than near new actuator failing. Suggest the sequence be followed. Full diagnosis will take about an hour.
  4. Thank you. Please don’t spray fuel or starter fluid yet. The reason I asked about the fuel pump module and whether the pumps are on when cranking is to help diagnose. The system will not (continue to) power the pump unless it detects spark. Knowing the answer narrows or enlarges possibilities. Best.
  5. For sure, but I took from his post he didn’t check with the plug in. Wire to screw driver. I’m thinking if he puts a plug in and checks, it’s fine. Anything else he should troubleshoot or sequence? I believe we’re all trying to help him find the issue. Best.
  6. You are twisted for sure. LOL.
  7. This tends to point toward something got knocked or mixed up. Yes, it's possible to hit/bump it. Nothing to "set". ----- Suggest these steps in order: -Before moving the ignition to start, one click before, confirm the fuel pump module kicks on and then goes off in about 5 seconds. -When cranking, are both fuel pump motors running or are they silent? Do they stay running for the duration of cranking? -Confirm spark on the other 5 wires. Yep, a pain, but... -For kicks and giggles (again), check each wire and make sure they go to the right places. Distributor to plug, ignition control module, etc. All of them. Yep, a pain, but... -For kicks and giggles (again), make sure no other wire is hanging loose, not fully seated, not jammed crocked in the socket, no bent pins, etc. A bright LED flashlight is super helpful. Yep, a pain, but... -Install the old distributor cap. -Look at the camshaft position sensor and confirm it didn't move. There are usually "witness" marks/signs if disturbed or hit/bumped. While there, pull and reseat the plug. -If you did anything at the front of the engine, confirm the crankshaft position sensor wasn't bumped, disconnected, these sorts of things. -Diacom will help. If you own it, why not use it. Once hooked up, crank. There shouldn't be code, but hard to tell remotely because I can't see or hear what you are experiencing. Look at the parameters for each the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. If one of them is showing blank or values that don't make sense (outside of normal), check the wiring and retest. If the same, replace the suspect sensor. Suggest Volvo Penta if it gets to this point. Aftermarket electrical stuff tends to be a bit hit and miss with Volvo Penta. Best wishes. Please post what you find as you go. This is a very good community that is very helpful.
  8. Curt

    Port Enginer Error Code

    The shift actuator is part of the EVC system, and is basically the mechanical "bridge" between the "boat by wire" system and the traditional, albeit truncated, shift cable attached to the outdrive. The actuator is basically an enclosed jack screw, servo motor and encoder/POT. If EVC senses something it didn't expect, it sends a shutdown command to that engine. While it implements the shutdown as instructed by EVC, the engine ECM doesn't register, store or otherwise display any code or parameter because nothing related to the engine triggered it. There are a few things to check. Confirm when this happens the green indicator light on the throttle station is illuminated in the direction selected and not N. Confirm the wire from the port throttle lever to the port shift actuator is not kinked, cut, chaffed, bent sharply, both ends are tight (water and corrosion free also, and re-seat each) (or check continuity of each strand). Confirm the cable from the port shift actuator to the port outdrive is not kinked, bound, etc. The end at the shift actuator can be removed, and the cable can then be verified to be free and moving properly. If all of this checks out, it's likely a failed shift actuator. To confirm, either move it to the starboard engine and see if the fault follows, or take it to a bench and apply low voltage to see if it moves in the intended direction and responds like it should in both directions. (This latter approach takes a bit more of out of the box thinking, and is not traditional remove and replace (R&R) because a bench based low voltage power source is needed, understanding which lead controls which movement must be known, and how the encoder/POT works is necessary.) I don't have a dog in this hunt, so please take the following with that in mind. Your Chaparral dealer or authorized Volvo Penta dealer is suggested. Depending on their experience, they may bring-in a Volvo Penta field engineer/service person because this isn't a real common issue. Wish you the best. P.S. The boat doesn't necessarily have to be pulled unless the cable between the shift actuator and outdrive has to be replaced.
  9. It’s not much different. “Speed tape”. Fairly expensive, aerospace after all, but approved to temporarily address certain things, including small holes (up to about 3/4-inch diameter) on the fuselage, wings, fairings, closeout panels, etc. in areas not subject to pressurization. Aluminum foil with a pressure sensitive adhesive and release paper. Similar to what can be purchased at any hardware store or big box home improvement retailer to seal HVAC ducting, except FAA approval wording is not on the label.
  10. Curt

    Fuel pressure

    Nope. By design and perfectly normal.
  11. Curt

    Fuel pressure

    The low pressure is high at 20. 8 to 12 is normal. Since it falls to 12, all is good. High pressure is spot on at 55. 50 to 60 is normal. No issue.
  12. That black box on the transom is the active corrosion prevention system. To confirm, if it has both a green and red, that’s it and has nothing to do with the failed start. If it was a fuse, or a loose wire in the fuse box, there'd be no spark, starter wouldn’t turn, fuel pump wouldn’t kick on and prime before cranking, etc. Suggest, since three wires were checked, check the other 5. When troubleshooting, it’s always best to do it each step fully so something can be ruled-in or out completely. Since you have a 5.7GXi-C, double check that the camshaft position sensor on the distributor wasn't bumped/moved. Same with the crankshaft position sensor on the engine front. If there’s spark on all 8, and the fuel module primes before cranking (like it should), and there’s compression (it ran before this work, so there is), and the correct rotor and cap was installed, it’s likely one of these two got bumped or disturbed. This won’t throw a code, but if either is unplugged or no longer seated, you’ll see this (missing parameters).
  13. Curt

    Wife Not Happy.....

    LOL. Ouch. Best wishes for a fruitful search. Could be fun. Perhaps keep her informed. Perhaps not. Either way, you’ll get something cool and fun, and be back on the water.
  14. Limited possibilities with prior running (i.e. compression confirmed) and spark confirmed on each wire. Wires to the correct plug, rotor position not changed, fuel, etc. Double check everything. It’s likely something simple. When I do this, I call it a da-huh moment.
  15. Curt

    On the Elizabeth river with my

    Love it.
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