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Curt

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  1. Yes, not OEM of course. They’re more durable where winterization is an annual thing or you want to drain the block from time to time for whatever reason. I keep a box handy. Never tried a hot screwdriver. Have used a small torch. Never drilled one. Can be done easily enough though. More than one way to tackle most things. Some just go around the barn more.
  2. Bt Doctur is right on. They can be changed to a brass petcock if you don’t like plastic, but that’s not a cure for this root cause.
  3. Vodia is authorized dealer only. If you have a current laptop, Diacom is about $600 and the pigtail for your motor is about $50 (www.rinda.com). First, pump the fuel out, change the separator and start fresh. With fresh fuel, if a 50 gallon tank, add 3 cans of Sea Foam. If a 75, add 4 cans. If junked up, an injector(s) might be hung. Second, a minor overheat could be as simple as the freshwater impeller needs changed. Pull it and check. If missing vanes, gouged, nicked, whatever, change it. Frankly, just change it anyway if it was dry stored. These should be changed annually. About $60. If you need the part number, please post or look on the sticker on the left front of your engine near the top.) Then, if still an alarm and it's not getting worse, we go to the sensors (and Diacom or an authorized Volvo Penta dealer/service technician).
  4. Thank you for the information. When you get the other information, please post. It will help rule some things out (for example, the OceanX alarm is a been every minute). With what you've posted to this point, the motor is a V6-200-J (non-EVC). Unless you are getting a solid audible tone, it's not oil pressure. 175-F is at the upper end of the temperature range, but below the alarm set-point. To quickly analyze this, a computer should be hooked up (Vodia or Diacom). Based on what's been posted to this point, the issue is likely a mild exhaust overheat, O2 sensor out of parameter, a failed temperature sensor (engine coolant or exhaust) or a failed O2 sensor. Vodia or Diacom will show if each is operating correctly, and which, if any, are alarming. Without Vodia or Diacam, a multimeter is used to troubleshoot and it will take some time to diagnose. With Vodia or Diacom, minutes. Regarding fuel, pull the fuel filter and dump the contents into a glass jar. Let it settle and then look at it. If there's water or the fuel has degraded, you'll see it straight away. If in doubt, throw a can or two or three of Sea Foam in or drain the fuel, flush the tank and run it through your car/truck. Please keep in mind, the alarm is not related to fuel unless the fuel is so bad it fouled a sensor.
  5. Afternoon. Fuel, fuel filter and spark plugs don't have anything to do with the problem. In general, there are 3 conditions that cause an alarm on most Volvo Penta's. Low oil pressure (constant tone), engine coolant overheat (beep), exhaust overheat (beep). Certain Volvo Penta outdrives (OceanX) alarm if low lube level (beep) or water in bellows (beep). Not to make the mystery deeper, but if equipped with EVC, there is a completely different alarm regimen. Given your description, it seems your motor is entering protect mode. If this is what's happening, RPM's are limited to protect the motor. Please post the full engine model number so better and more accurate help can be provided. The model number is V6-200-__-__ and is printed on the sticker located on the front center of the black plastic engine cowling. This sticker includes the model, serial number and product number. For knowledge building, V6-200-SX isn't the model number and generically refers to a V6 with an SX outdrive. Unfortunately, this doesn't allow your motor to be identified precisely. Please also post the information from the sticker labeled drive unit. This is included with the Volvo Penta manuals that are part of the boat's documentation package. It's all in the blue Chaparral bag (p.s. there is an engine sticker on the same sheet as well). Stalling at idle might be related to what's causing the alarm, or it might not be.
  6. Love that you added water to the anchor locker. Love even more that it’s hot too. Might just add this to the winter list. Thank you for sharing.
  7. Curt

    Oil Change

    For the VP 8.1GiE-M, 6.5 quarts is what I show. I’ll double check in the morning. Do you need the filter part number as well?
  8. Curt

    Oil Change

    It depends on which VP 8.1. Check the tag on the engine cowl as Hatem suggests, your manual or please post the complete engine model number. In general, which may or may not be correct for your motor, 6.5 or 9 quarts per specification. Not all will come out though.
  9. Now that’s a great paint job.
  10. It’s better to keep the bearings and gears coated. If drained and the remaining lube coating these items dries and then, over time, evaporates, it’s likely spot corrosion will develop. This eventually will lead to failure. When will this happen? Impossible to say. Is there enough elapsed time during short term winter storage for the gear lube to dry and flash off? Impossible to say. Depends on a lot of factors that may or may not have been studied by the OEM that built your drive. For example, southern U.S. or northern U.S./Canada, arid or humid, time, etc. The safest and best approach, change it now. Anything other is a compromise that you’ll have to weigh, decide and live with the result (time saved now, potential for problems later). I’d be happy to share a real life example from work that occurred last month, but it wasn’t an outdrive. Similar choice. Not a good outcome and time elapsed was roughly 3 months.
  11. Curt

    Waste tank full?

    - Thank you re. vinegar and pointing me to Peggy. Yeah, I learned about Dawn by trying it. Lots of suds... agree, not good. - No clue what all this other stuff is about. I didn’t say yours didn’t work and all that.
  12. Curt

    Waste tank full?

    What does the vinegar do? I tried water and Dawn once. Lots of odd colored suds. Not doing that again.
  13. Curt

    Waste tank full?

    Yes. When pumping out, crack the ball valve on the toilet slightly. This increases velocity of the vacuum and helps getting all that’s in there removed. Just slightly... 1/4 to 1/2-inch. Manipulate the flush lever by foot or hand accordingly.
  14. Sorry, been working on a family member’s car today - hood latch failed. At any rate, I cleaned it out with a drill. This slightly moved it outward, but only slightly. I’m trying to find the picture I took, and will post it if I do. I wasn’t sure the purpose, and still don’t know.
  15. Never seen that. Very creative. Just double check that the ratchet and lock aren’t affected. If they’re not, problem solved.
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