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Curt

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  1. Curt

    Engine Overheating

    Thank you. I’ve watched the video a few times. Can’t tell much other than there’s water exiting from the transom-shield in the area of the bottom zinc. If we could put the camera in the gap (where the hoses and bellows are) and slowly move up down, left right with the drive hard over that might help. If not, either pressure test or pull the drive and focus on the transom-shield. Is anything leaking inside, between the rear of the motor and transom? Edit 1 (read your posts again). Wingnut stated this, and I suggested the hose clamps first. For clarity, the inlet and exhaust hoses connect to barbs on the transom-shield. Check these clamps. If they are tight, the barb is likely cracked or rotted. None of this is visible in the video. These should be checked. Edit 2 (read your posts again). If this started the very moment the replacement drive was installed, it’s possible the o-rings where missed, moved, pinched or cut. These aren’t really o-rings per se because they’re not round. The air pressure test will reveal this problem. FWIW. At the same time, the drive has to come off unless the clamps are loose, and even then it’s best to pull the drive. Might want to bite the bullet and pull the drive.
  2. Curt

    Engine Overheating

    Suggest checking the hose clamps first.
  3. Curt

    Sunesta 243 exhaust 3" spacer

    The taller elbow/integrated riser, if genuine VP, has a different down angle and longer snout to make up the difference. Setting that aside, if your set-up doesn’t connect for whatever reason, please go back to my first post. Look down toward the y-pipe at the back of the engine. You’ll see a rubber connector hose in the middle on each side. That is replaced with a piece 3-inches longer. 4-inch diameter if my memory is working this AM. Remove it, go to a hose shop and buy what you need. They will cut it for you. FWIW. With all that weight, the 3-inch increase in rise might not be enough. If the motor has stalled multiple times due to water getting that far up into the exhaust, it’s one instance away from being ruined. Suggest moving some weight forward.
  4. Curt

    Sunesta 243 exhaust 3" spacer

    I’m asking if you purchased genuine OEM (Volvo Penta), or aftermarket.
  5. Curt

    Sunesta 243 exhaust 3" spacer

    Volvo Penta parts, or aftermarket?
  6. Curt

    Sunesta 243 exhaust 3" spacer

    Don’t buy the 3-inch spacer. As Chap243 points out, another set of gaskets. What exactly did you buy?
  7. Curt

    Sunesta 243 exhaust 3" spacer

    That’s a lot of weight back there. Setting that aside, the taller elbow/riser is 3862627. That’s all you need. Unless someone changed something along the way, no need to lengthen the hose.
  8. Curt

    Sunesta 243 exhaust 3" spacer

    Without knowing and confirming for your specific engine (5.0Gxi-___,), look past each right angle down toward the y-pipe. You’ll see a rubber hose in the middle. This gets replaced with one 3-inches longer. Of course, there’s one on each side. The elbow itself (which attaches to the riser/manifold), is cast iron. Suggest not trying to weld it. If you’re actually talking about the right angle exhaust pipe after the elbow, steel. If water’s getting up the exhaust system, do you have a bunch of extra weight in the stern? Not normal. Finally, if an older model, there might be flappers. Something like 10 years back Volvo Penta dropped these. Not enough information in your post to say one way or the other.
  9. Typically there’s a wire left as you point out. Whenever I’m pulling new I always leave another for a future pull. I worked on a boat last year and did what I was supposed to, and left another pull just in case. Wouldn’t you know, the future arrived early and was this year. Found my wire, started pulling and it wouldn’t move. Scratched my head, and then after a bit pulled all the access panels, speakers and cup holders. I tied it off, but didn’t remember. Untied it and then proceeded to pull it straight out from that side. Then realized what I did (yanked it out without attaching anything). Paused, laughed, complained to myself about getting older and then pulled out the fishtape and fiberglass rods. I never tie these off, and have no idea why I did that one time. Live, learn and wonder. LOL.
  10. Curt

    Splash

    I’ve always wondered if the glue or the foam dries out first.
  11. Curt

    Splash

    I did something similar, but in a car. Worked and look good. Suggest using a clean small diameter wand also (like what comes with many of the WD-40 cans). I also used a marker to help blend the seem since a little of the foam showed through.
  12. Search using the phrase "ABYC Wiring". I tried to attach a PDF and picture but both exceed the 0.1MB file size limit and error. I can email if you PM an email address. "Boat side" is the harness/wiring in the boat, where, for example, yellow/black are negative and green/green-yellow is ground per ABYC standards. The radio has a pigtail.
  13. I don’t but it’s a great idea, especially for a long term owner. Do use oil and hydraulic fluid analysis in other endeavors though. Provides really good information information when competed at defined intervals of time and compared.
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