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rjbergen

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About rjbergen

  • Birthday April 20

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  • Location
    Detroit, MI

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  1. I’ve been seeing different sizes which is why I asked. There are very few posts and videos about DP drives for some reason. This link shows a 1-3/16” socket which I’m thinking is probably correct as it says it works for DP-S among others. My concern is it also says it works for SX but everything I see online suggests SX nuts are 1-1/16”. And that’s how I’m confused. I have the cheap VP DP prop nut tool but I was just bending the handle last year trying to break the rear but free. I want to get actual sockets to help break them free, but also to allow me to use a torque wrench to apply proper torque upon reassembly. I just don’t want to be buying a bunch of 1”+ sockets at $10/each trying to find the right one. @Wingnut do you know what size socket I need for the rear prop nut on a Volvo DP-SM drive?
  2. rjbergen

    Trash in the tank

    I agree with this. Deal with it if and when it’s a problem. Its possible it’ll block the tank pick up, or clog a fuel filter. It won’t make it to the engines though.
  3. Who happens to know the socket size required for the rear prop nut on a Volvo DP-SM outdrive? I want to pick up a socket for my impact wrench to make removing it easier. I bought the boat in July 2018 and in the spring of 2019, I couldn't get the rear prop nut to budge using the Volvo prop tool kit (3855516). I had the marina do a full drive service and ended up having the gear lube changed, bellows replaced (one leaky), gimbal bearing replaced (going bad due to leaky bellows), and trim sensors replaced (was getting wonky trim readings). This spring I'd like to change my gear oil myself as the marina wants to charge $315 (parts, labor, and tax) for gear lube change on both outdrives. I already have 6 qts. of Volvo synthetic gear lube from 2019 when I planned to do it, but couldn't move the rear prop nut. Now I want to buy this Volvo prop tool (3855876) for the front prop nut, and an appropriately sized impact socket for the rear prop nut. That should allow me to get the prop nuts off, and then apply the proper torque when tightening them back on.
  4. rjbergen

    Wiring radio

    Can you post what model numbers are for the Clarion and Fusion? Better yet if you can post links to manuals. My gut based on what you’ve posted is that the Fusion red power input should be connected to the yellow. 1A is too low for the radio.
  5. We have a Lilypad and enjoy it. With a larger boat, Sig 330, we transport it up on the bow strapped to the bow rail. I don’t think I’d try it strapped to the tower. I would look to secure it to the swim platform first. That’s what I usually see smaller boats do.
  6. Huh? What did you say? I can’t hear you because my air pump screams so loud it’s made me deaf lol
  7. That's a good deal! The marina I'm looking at is just over 140 deer per month for dues and 40 deer per month for property taxes. That's after the purchase price, which is whatever you can negotiate with whomever happens to be selling a slip at the time you're looking to buy. Slips currently seem to be running 18k to 20k deer. However, that can be viewed as money in escrow essentially as you can recoup that when you sell it.
  8. Phillbo, I usually like your posts and you're typically helpful, but today you're just Captain Obvious lol
  9. The dockominium is deeded real estate. We would own it and be members of the condo association. Not worried about stone damage. We’re on Lake St. Clair. No major storms here. They maintain an 10-page rules document and reserve the right to kick people out. I’ve been to the marina before. It is very clean and tidy.
  10. Not sure on the difference between a marina and a yacht club. This marina was bought out last year by Safe Harbor Marinas. They have about 400 seasonal renter slips, 400 dockominium slips, and 100 rack storage spaces. The dockominium slips are deeded real estate and you pay city property taxes plus the condo association fees. The condo association has never had a special assessment in 34 years of operation. They maintain a fund to cover expected repairs and upgrades. I can confirm that the facility is likely the nicest marina in this area. As a dockominium owner, you also receive free outdoor winter storage. I’ve looked at all costs I can figure and it seems to be a savings of about $800/year vs what we spend now all in. That’s counting the summer slip (seasonal rent or dues plus taxes), winter storage, hoist fees, shoring fees, and bottom wash fees. I assume engine winterization and shrink wrap fees are close enough not to worry about for now. I have enough cash on hand to purchase one of the slips for sale, and it’s assumed the slip would hold it’s value as they’ve sold for roughly the same price for the past 10 years.
  11. My wife and I currently rent our slip on a seasonal basis. We are considering purchasing a slip that is part of a condominium association, commonly referred to as a dockominium (although this one is just the slip, some at another marina actually include small ~800 sq ft condos as weekend homes). Does anyone here own their slip? What are the pros and cons?
  12. Take a look at the bottom edge. Many of those have a snap on bezel and there’s a small notch on the bottom to slip a flathead screwdriver in to pop off the bezel. Then there’s usually four screws behind the bezel. Start there and report back.
  13. Yes, it works with the ignition off. Electrical equipment installed in the engine room must be “ignition protected” so they do not cause an explosion if there are gasoline vapors present. Your 12 VDC engine ignition system is completely separate from your 120 VAC shore power system.
  14. Look at the Shurflo and Jabsco electric pumps. They are typically a diaphragm-based pump that will be low maintenance.
  15. That’s one of the reasons I pay someone. I’ve read up on surveying before. I’ve studied it and understand it. However, there are things that a surveyor will be better at, such as looking for rot in the hull and stringers. They can use soundings with a mallet which takes a fine touch to learn what you’re hearing and they have many, many boats worth of experience. They can also use a moisture meter to inspect, and they have much more experience interpreting the meter reading. I have a PDF that’s like 17 pages of each item to inspect during a survey. It covers a lot, but I’m not sure I could spend 3-4 hours checking everything. In my case, paying about $800 to have a 35 ft, $85,000 boat surveyed made a lot of sense. Also, you need to check with your lender on whether or not they require a survey. My first lender required surveys on all boats over $10,000. My current lender I’m not aware of their requirements other than they required it for my $85,000 boat. This goes back to you should have spoken with your lender and been pre-approved prior to setting up viewings of boats you’re interested in.
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