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About rjbergen

  • Birthday April 20

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    Detroit, MI

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  1. rjbergen

    Replaced arch tower light and lost wire in the tower.

    That wire is most likely left there on purpose as a pull wire. Many higher end manufacturers do this knowing that future owners will add things and need to run more wires. They do it in radar arches and other conduit running around the boat. The idea is that you connect your new wires and a new pull wire to the existing one and pull them into place. No fishing required and since you pulled a new pull wire, it’s still there for the next time to add wires.
  2. rjbergen

    RPM Gauge on 2007 Sig 270 with Volvo Penta Engine

    I would check with Yacht Devices as well. Give them your engine mode number and see if they are compatible. For my 2006 engines, it is quite literally plug and play. I believe that was the case for @Iggy as well. Yacht Devices makes an adapter cable that connects to the engine and their device. Then just set up the NMEA 2000 network on the boat. I think you’ll find Noland’s method to be more work and potentially more confusing tapping into all of the gauges.
  3. rjbergen

    This is for Hatem

    I've been trying and can't seem to find any information about this yacht. All I've got is that it's registered in George Town, Cayman Islands by it's port of call on the transom. Even cropping the image and using Google's Reverse Image Search didn't work.
  4. rjbergen

    SeaDek Process - 2006 Signature 330

    I'm really excited for the 13mm thick helm pads. That's just over 1/2" and should provide great cushioning at the helm. Here are first round of drawings that the corporate factory made based on my templates and modification to the swim platform drawing from the 2007 Sig 330.
  5. rjbergen

    Accessory panel

    My troubleshooting recommendations for electrical always starts with a voltmeter and checking voltages. Start at the battery and confirm there's 12+ VDC. Then check at the battery switch. Then the next stop is probably the accessory panel. Use the engine block for ground. Confirm that the negative wire from your battery is connected to the engine block. Basically, walk through the electrical system starting at the batteries and touching each connection point along the way. Come back with results and we can help more.
  6. rjbergen

    Repairing fiberglass?

    As Hatem and brick have said, it's a little more serious damage that absolutely needs to be repaired. However, it's definitely repairable. If you are not familiar with fiberglass repair, I would leave this to a pro. I would take a stab and say a marina will do this for ~$1,000. I would ask your dealer for a quote as they should have a repair guy. Factor that into your purchase deal. Either cut the sale price by the cost of the repair or make the repair a requirement of the sale.
  7. rjbergen

    SeaDek Process - 2006 Signature 330

    Making my templates didn't seem too bad. I was up against a self-imposed time crunch of wanting the SeaDek installed before our wedding. If it hadn't been for that, I most likely would have continued down the DIY route and sent back the second round of dry fits for modifications. The bigger issue to me was why the overall dimensions of the swim platform pads changed when all I did was add 3 cut-outs for pop-up cleats and grill mount. It should have had no effect on the rest of the pad outline, yet it made drastic changes and no longer fit at all. I did actually like working with the factory a little better than my local Certified Installer. My local guys are nice, but a little rough around the edges and not a polished business like corporate is. The Certified Fabricator, SC Wake, that my local guy works with doesn't have the full capability that the corporate factory does. For instance, SC Wake is not capable of doing laser logos. I wanted the SeaDek logo laser etched into the swim platform and the factory was doing that, but SC Wake will have to route it. SC Wake also seems to not be able to cut pads as close to the edge of the factory can. My swim platform pads from the factory drawing were about 1/2" narrower than the full 40" pad width and the factory had no issue with this, but SC Wake is splitting it into the large pad with the small wings as shown in my drawing. Overall, I'm very happy with the process so far and can't wait for it to be installed.
  8. It may or may not help seeing submerged objects. Depends on the sensitivity of the sensor. The FLIR works based on IR and you can see some heat signatures through vegetation and things like that. It's just like you see on Cops when the helicopter is using its FLIR and can see the criminals through the trees they're hiding in. Water plays a little differently with IR though so I'm not sure if you'd be able to see submerged objects. You'll definitely see anything that's floating on the surface though.
  9. rjbergen

    Lift Hatch Motor

    Alright guys, I'm going to step in. I've been ignoring this, but this feud has been going on for a couple weeks now. Let's get back to being reasonable adults and drop it. I think you both provide valuable information to this forum and would like to see that continue. Let's not scare off the newcomers because of some infighting.
  10. rjbergen

    RPM Gauge on 2007 Sig 270 with Volvo Penta Engine

    @SV_CC, I suggest you start your own thread. There has been lots of discussion recently regarding adding NMEA 2000 to older boats. Both Iggy and I are familiar with the system and can talk to it quite a bit. For starters, we'll need your full engine model number. For example, my 2006 Volvos are 5.7 GXi-F. That letter after the dash is very important and will help us help you. Next, I would suggest reaching out to Yacht Devices with your engine model number and ask if their YDEG-04 Engine Gateway is compatible with your engine. Start there and we can get this going for you.
  11. Some of you may have seen that I mentioned we are having SeaDek installed on our 2006 Signature 330. I wanted to provide some details on the process and how we ended up where we are... This SeaDek adventure started in late 2017. I started considering installing it on the small swim platform of my 1997 Four Winns Horizon 240 bowrider. I researched it over the winter and said I'd get back to it in the spring of 2018. Well, when spring of 2018 came around, I was looking to sell that boat which I co-owned with a friend and buy a bigger boat with my girlfriend (now fiance, to be wife in 25 days!). We came across our 2006 Signature 330 which happened to be owned by a family whose daughter I had coached for 4 year in high school girls lacrosse. We got a good deal on it and it was ours in July 2018. We knew from the beginning that we wanted to put SeaDek on it. Over the winter of 2018, we ordered samples of various manufactures of foam flooring to see whose we like the best. We had SeaDek, Gator Step, Aqua Traction, and Aqua Marine Deck. SeaDek's product felt the softest of all and that's what we were going for. Plus, we also felt SeaDek was the original name and still one of the most common names. It was likely to hold the most resale value and had a long-term company to stand behind it. This spring of 2019, I decided to move ahead with the SeaDek. Being a DIY person, I thought I would install it myself. The first step was contacting SeaDek to determine if they had existing drawings for my boat. I had already seen this blog post where SeaDek was installed on the swim platform of a 2007 Chaparral Signature 330 which has the same platform as ours. However, our platform has two pop-up cleats and a grill pedestal mount, so we would have to modify the existing drawing. When I contacted SeaDek, I was told they only had that swim platform drawing and nothing for the cockpit. I ordered a dry fit template of the existing swim platform drawing and 4 blank sheets of Mylar to template the cockpit. Once I received my materials, I got to work templating my cockpit and modifying my swim platform. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the swim platform dry fit lined up almost exactly and marked my modifications with a permanent marker. Making templates for the cockpit went pretty smoothly and I thought they turned out well. I shipped all of this back to SeaDek and awaited the drawings. The first step in creating the drawings is SeaDek scans your templates and based on that they send a quote for the price to turn them into drawings and cut the foam. They state there is a 25% fee if you cancel once they start creating drawings. I was happy with the price and gave them the OK. Shortly after I signed the quote, they sent me a set of drawings. One for the the main pads for the swim platform and cockpit which will be 6mm thick, and a second for the helm pads which will be 13mm thick. The drawings looked good, so I ordered the dry fit templates to make sure everything fit. The dry fits arrived about a week later, and I took them to the boat that weekend and began cutting them out. Word to the wise...cut the dry fits at home and only take what you need to the boat. Much easier than working with huge sheets of Mylar and trying to cut out the pieces in a cramped cabin! Much to my surprise, the swim platform no longer lined up at all. Something changed when they modified it to work in our pop-up cleats and grill pedestal mount. I also found that 2 or 3 pieces for my cockpit didn't line up. Not sure if that was poor templating on my part, or they did something. Aggravated, and not wanting to keep having delays, I called my local Certified Installer on Monday. Chuck, from Advanced Boat Works said he'd be out Tuesday evening to quote the job. The SeaDek process can be slow working directly with the company because of shipping times and I can't always go to the boat immediately when I receive templates as I work. This led to a 3 - 4 week update process as SeaDek would ship the templates (1 week), then I would test fit them and send them back (1 week), then SeaDek updates the drawings (1 week), and ships the new templates back (1 week). It all adds up and I really wanted to have this done for our wedding! The reception is at a marina and our boat will be there for pictures. I needed help, and I needed someone whose job was installing SeaDek and could put more time into it. I was concerned about calling them since I signed the contract with SeaDek corporate, but when I called the factory they said that since I was still buying SeaDek through a Certified Installer that I would not be charged and they simply asked for pictures of the finished install. Advanced Boat Works quoted our installation and it came out about 50% higher than ordering it through SeaDek and installing it myself. I thought this was a fair price for them to create templates and install it. I accepted their quote the next day on Wednesday and they were templating my boat by Friday. A week or two later and I had the drawings returned. I made a few tweaks and had them test the fit with dry fit templates. Now that everything fits, they've sent me the drawing pictured below and I've told them to send it to production. Over the next 3.5 weeks, the foam will be cut and they'll come install it. I'm anxiously awaiting the finished product.
  12. rjbergen

    Why no-one makes 6-pin to 5-pin trailer adapter?

    You can make your own. Etrailer has 6 pin round plugs without wires. Buy that and a 5 pin flat receptacle with a pigtail on wires. Connect the 5 pin pigtail wires to the correct pins on the 6 pin plug. Edit: Scratch what I said. No one makes it because it doesn’t work. A standard 6 pin connector does not have the reverse lights pin. That comes with a 7 pin. You can still make the adapter, but you won’t get the reverse lockout feature because your RV doesn’t have it.
  13. rjbergen

    Chaparral build change to 2020 models.

    I believe a coworker took delivery of a 2020 hull last week. It’s a 300 OSX.
  14. rjbergen


    Please do not run any light while cruising at night other than your navigation lights. Note: navigation lights do NOT include your docking lights. There should be red and green lights up front, and either an all-round white light (most likely on your size boat) or a stern light and masthead light combination. All other white lights should be off. When I’m cruising at night, I don’t even have my blue cockpit and courtesy lights on. I run with nav lights only and turn my chartplotter to night mode and dim my dash lights, which are all red to preserve night vision.
  15. rjbergen

    Arch lights aren't working properly

    Are they LED lights? I ask because LEDs do not take much voltage to light them up, although in a marine application they are typically fixtures with additional resistors and voltage regulators to accept the 12 VDC and regulate it down to 3 VDC or so for the LEDs. In any case, a small stray voltage may be enough to keep an LED lit up. Is the switch located at the helm on the starboard side of the boat? Which side of the arch is the constant on one? Bring a voltmeter when you go visit the boat. Pull the switch out and disconnect the output. See if the light goes off, then it might be a bad switch. If the light is on even with the switch disconnected, you probably have a short somewhere leaking power to the light. What other powered devices do you have on the arch? I'm looking for things like a radar dome or something that would have constant power supplied to it even though the device might be turned off.