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About rjbergen

  • Birthday April 20

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    Detroit, MI

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  1. Yes, I always make the deposit refundable. You could negotiate down to funding is only refundable for failing survey or sea trial. I wouldn’t start there, but if the seller pushes you could. I say that because you should be pre-approved for financing prior to making the offer. The contingency on financing should be a sure thing since you’re pre-approved. Now as others have mentioned, surveyors miss things all the time. I had a bad surveyor on my first boat. It was a 17 year old 24’ bowrider and the survey was about $300. He missed a good deal. The surveyor is used in 2018 did pretty well. He found major issues on the first two boats, and my current one passed. I ended up spending like $1,400 overall between the 3 surveys. I think it was $700 for the final one and that was full price. The first two that failed, I was there and ended the surveys early after he brought major issues to my attention. Speaking of that, always try to be there in person for the survey. Let’s you see exactly what they’re pointing out and ask questions about things you see. Really helps you learn the boat.
  2. I will never buy a boat without a survey. I know a lot about boats, but I don’t look at boats day in and day out. The buying process I follow goes like this: 1. Look at boat in person. 2. Fill out the BoatUS Purchase Agreement and both buyer and seller sign. Leave a $1,000 deposit with seller. Sale contingent on satisfactory survey, sea trial, and financing 3. Schedule survey. 4. Pending satisfactory survey, schedule sea trial. 5. Pending satisfactory sea trial, finalize financing. I aim to be pre-approved prior to setting up a visit. 6. Pending successful financing, arrange title transfer at the DMV/Secretary of State. 7. After title transfer, arrange to pick up the boat and take it home. As for losing out to someone willing to skip a survey, that’s a risk I’m willing to take. I look at it as it wasn’t meant to be. Boat shopping can be a long process. It took a me 2 months, browsing many online listings, looking at 3 boats, and failing 2 surveys before we found our current 2006 Chap Sig 330 that passed the survey.
  3. I can’t help you with locating one, but here’s an idea to try. Make a cardboard template that overhangs the seats by 6”. Start there and see how it looks and works. Adjust as needed. Once you have the cardboard template down, make/buy a new table top out of wood and screw the table post adapter in the right spot.
  4. On you 741, the Ethernet will be used for a network, but most likely won't output the GPS chart. The Ext. GPS is for an external GPS antenna if you need better GPS signal. For example, you mounted the chartplotter in the enclosed bridge of a fly bridge, or you have a metal T-top the interferes with the signal, or something like that. It's not needed for most of us with a basic radar arch. As far as changing out the TV, I know there are some out there that run on Android OS, but are any of them 12 VDC? Even then, they would need to support the Google Play store most likely to install the app and most TVs probably aren't that open. Your best bet might be an Android tablet to display the charts. As for the APS stuff...I love it. Gotta say, you're pretty knowledgeable about it for someone not involved in the military/defense industry. Explosively Formed Penetrators (EFPs) are basically copper bowls with explosives packed behind them. Upon detonation, the copper bowl turns into a slug shape. In Trophy, it is essentially a very fancy shotgun method. Trophy is very different from Raytheon's Quick Kill and they're totally unrelated. Quick Kill had launchers on either side of the vehicle with two rockets per launcher. The rockets launched vertically and had small sideways thrusters at the end to pitch the rocket over to the proper direction to launch at the threat. Once pitched over, the rocket motor would ignite and propel it toward the threat. It was too complicated of a system timing the pitch motors and the rocket motor. Plus each rocket was something like $100k. As for how many threats an APS can stop, that varies by the system. Some systems like Trophy work by having centralized countermeasures that pan and tilt to aim at the threat. Others systems like Iron Curtain have a distributed ring of countermeasures around the vehicle. Eventually, any system will run out of countermeasures, and in Trophy's case, that's 2 per side. The report about Abrams firing 48 rounds was total rounds over the course of weeks of testing, not all at once. As for types of rounds, even HEAT rounds are a challenge to most APS. Tank-fired rounds, even HEAT (about 1,200 m/s), move at a much higher velocity than RPGs (about 300 m/s) and ATGMs. APS is primarily geared for man-portable RPG and ATGM defeat. Some can handle recoilless rifle (about 400 m/s) threats pretty well too. KE rods are high speed at around 1,500 m/s typically. There is one system that I know, Iron Fist, which claims to have KE rod capability using an explosive blast wave to deflect the KE rod far enough away from the vehicle that it veers off course enough to miss.
  5. If the Garmin can output to an RCA or Coax, that would be a good option. You’ll need to look at the manual and see if outputting the screen image is even an option. If it supports it, I’m sure we can find a way to get it to the TV. FLIR cameras are insanely expensive. Like $5k-$10k for a basic one. Up to $30k+ for the fancy ones. I’m not sure I fully see the benefit of having one. I’d be inclined to try one of the FLIR monoculars first. Then again, I don’t have to worry about rocks in my boating area.
  6. The RPG-30 is a threat to most modern APS systems. It fires an inert precursor rocket to draw the APS’ attention quickly followed by a tandem RPG designed to detonate explosive reactive armor and then penetrate around 24” of RHA equivalence. It’s currently not seen outside of Russia, and its somewhat heavy at about 23 lbs limiting its man-portable ability. The US was working on an APS called Quick Kill with Raytheon back in the late 2000’s/early 2010’s. The system was quite technically complicated and was cut before it was fully developed. APS is quite interesting to me and I’ve been involved with APS projects on and off since 2010.
  7. In the future, please start a new thread rather than reviving an 8 year old thread for a barely related question. As for your torque question, the proper way would be to use a torque wrench. That would require an appropriate socket for the rear prop nut. Not sure how you’d make an adapter for the front prop nut as the VP tools don’t have a 1/2” drive hole. The other option is to do it yourself with a breaker bar or pipe to extend the VP tool handles. Torque = Distance x Force Therefore, 50 ft-lbs = 1 ft x 50 lbs. If you apply a force of 50 lbs directly perpendicular to the handle 1 ft away from the center of rotation, you’ve applied 50 ft-lbs. Or you could apply 100 lbs at 6 inches from the center. Or 25 lbs at 2 ft from the center. You get the idea.
  8. I can talk about most of it. I work for the Army’s Ground Vehicle Systems Center in a rapid prototyping and integration shop. I’ve worked on the Abrams, Bradley, Stryker, M-ATV, MaxxPro, Buffalo, RG-31, RG-33, and AMPV. My coworkers have worked on various other vehicles. If it’s in the Army inventory, we’ve probably seen it. On the Abrams, I was the lead government electrical engineer to develop the integration kit for the Trophy APS system. You can Google that and find lots of pictures of it and videos of Trophy APS functioning (videos may no be on the Abrams).
  9. Well, being a computer/electrical engineer on military vehicles, I'm all too familiar with the "you never know", "it said it did", "it should", "I thought it would", and any other reason why two supposedly compatible devices don't work. At one time, I thought Yacht Devices was not certified as NMEA 2K compliant, but their devices actually conformed to the standard. In many cases, and I assume this one, the standards committee requires member companies to pay exorbitant licensing fees and submit sample products and pay testing fees to be listed as certified to the standard. However, the standard is open and a device may still comply to it, but hasn't been validated by the standards committee, and I believe that was Yacht Devices at one time. I thought they were working on changing that, and I haven't heard one bad thing about their NEMA 2K devices not communicating on the network. I wouldn't hesitate to buy their stuff, and in fact I've selected a number of their products if I ever choose to cough up the coin and time/frustration of installing it all.
  10. That YachtDevices fuel sender outputs over the NMEA 2K network. It will work with your setup Hatem. NMEA 2K is a network protocol. Doesn’t matter who the manufacturer is.
  11. Unfortunately I think Mumford is jerking your chain. My first boat was a 1997 Four Winn Horizon 240 with a Volvo DP-S. It was all original. I bought it with 700 or so hours and sold it in 2018 with 860 hours. I had no problems with the outdrive. Volvo drives are pretty strong. Here’s a basic outdrive service plan. Others here can add to it or critique it. This is a conservative plan and many do less than this and run fine for years. - End of each season, change outdrive gear oil. Prevents any potential water from freezing and cracking the housing. Also allows you to have the drive services over the winter to prevent spring delays if you do find milky drive oil indicating water. My marina charges half hour of labor per drive for this, plus $60 for the 3 qts of oil (actually takes less but they don’t charge partial quarts). This is easy to do yourself, but I don’t find it worth my time when I can pay $170 and not think about it. - Every spring, check the anodes. Replace with magnesium if you’re in fresh water. I change annually because it’s like $50/drive. Boatzincs.com is a good source to buy from. Real easy to do this yourself. If your drain plug is not behind the props (mine is in the DP so I have to pull props to change gear oil), pull the props anyways and take them home. Prevents stolen props during winter storage, let’s you have them balanced if you happened to nick or bend them, and prevents them from corroding onto the prop shaft. Inspect the prop shaft seal for any fishing line or damage. - Every spring, check the bellows for cracks and push the drive side to side looking for slop. Grease the prop shaft and reinstall the prop. - Every other year, pull the outdrive to more thoroughly inspect the bellows and be able to inspect and grease gimbal bearing and u-joint, and check engine alignment. Also prevents the drive from corroding to the transom plate. My marina charges 2 hours per drive for this service and that includes a gear oil change. Again, I let them do this because I don’t want to mess with pulling a heavy drive. - Every 4 years pull the drive and replace the bellows. Again, do all the same checks as the every 2 years service above. If engine alignment is maintained and gimbal bearings are greased, you can usually get more than 4 years, but you do put a lot of hours on so couldn’t hurt to change. Outdrives usually tell you something is wrong through noise or vibration. You’ll have hard shifting or clicking sounds if gears are going. You’ll feel vibrations during turns if u-joints are failing. Again, I think they were pulling your chain. I would take the boat and run it next year. See if you feel anything. If not, start following the maintenance steps above and you should be good.
  12. Definitely jealous of the C37! Those are beautiful boats. I’ve been on a few at the local boat show. I would love a coupe for the same reasons you mention. However, at 6’6” tall, I struggle to find enough headroom at the helm of most of them.
  13. On one hand you’re talking about toilet bowl cleaner which is used for cleaning growth off the underwater hull surface at the end of the season when you haul out. Then your picture looks like you have bottom paint. Then you ask about compounds a buffers. You don’t use a buffer with toilet bowl cleaner. So what are you actually looking to do? Clean and polish the hull sides above the waterline? Or clean growth and yellowing below the waterline?
  14. Check your transom shield. Check your motor mounts and stringers.
  15. rjbergen


    SeaDek is all cut-to-order so yes, you can replace the carpet with SeaDek. I did that in my 2006 Sig 330. Had SeaDek installed on the swim platform and cockpit.
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