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  1. Take a look at the caulking bead around the shower door. The door wall is sealed to the sides with caulking and sometimes it gets dry and cracks. Also, another possibility is the seal at the base of the windshield, if it is broken, water can leak around a screw hole and follow a wall down to the carpet.
  2. It may be electrical, but further down from the tach itself. Take a look and follow the wire loom further. Usually there are connectors that they use when they assemble the top and bottom parts of the boat together. On mine, one of the 3 connector had corrosion in it, and my tach, and fuel gauge where jumping from the good reading.
  3. Would filling the threads with aluminum JBWeld and re-tap be solid enough?
  4. Hi Jeff, look at this link, http://forum.chaparralboats.com/ownersManuals/1999.pdf this is a manual for a 1999, but it should give you a good idea for colors, wire distribution etc. Mike.
  5. Tod, let us know the outcome. Mine also stripped last summer from just screwing it with a screwdriver. I will have to fix that next spring. There is Helicoil and also Timesert. From what I read on the web, Timesert would be better: Quote:: ''Helicoils are faster/easier and Timeserts are much stronger. If you're looking for a long-term solution, go with the Timeserts.""
  6. I would look at every connections, at the gauge itself, at the junction plug behind the dashboard, the ground bar etc. On my 2004 Signature 260 I have the fuel gauge pegging sometimes and the RPM changing value. After investigation, I found a lot of corrosion in the wire harness connector behind the dash board. I tried to clean everything with contact cleaner and a small brush, it helped a bit but it is not perfect. In spring I will eliminate the plug and crimp + solder the wires together and it should solve the problem for good.
  7. 2004 Signature 260: Hello all, My Isotherm fridge is working perfect on shore power but always goes in 'low power' alarm when on batteries (1 LED blink). I did some troubleshooting, and found the main problem. The 10A breaker was very resistive (15 ohms) and drops the voltage to the fridge, so I replaced it and now the fridge is working on 12V. But the voltage is still like 1V too low. More trouble shooting, I checked the voltage drop at different points and found that the ground wire going from the fridge back to ??? a GND strip somewhere, is dropping 0.9V!! This is almost a volt which makes the compressor seeing the lower point cutoff of 10.4V earlier, when in reality it should see almost 11.4V. So, I am there now, I need to know what is the path of the GND wire. I see the V+ and GND going in a plastic split loom and in an opening in the floor (from port to strarboard). I would like to inspect the end of the GND wire for corrosion but I don't find it. Does someone know where the fridge is grounded? If I don't find anything, my only solution will be to pass another GND wire, like a 8AWG directly to the GND strip in the bilge.
  8. I think this is my first post here, so hello everyone. I bought a Signature 260 last summer and I'm doing some work on it during winter. I disassembled many things on the boat, cabin trims, deck parts, engine parts, and outdrive parts. The engine is a VP 5.7Gi-D with a DP-SM. I have some parts together on a shelve and I found this plastic part, that I'm not even sure belongs to the boat, but I have no idea where else it could go. So I take a chance here. This is the part: Thanks.
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