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  1. Dozer, Congrats on your setup! post some pics of the installed unit. I have the Simard NSS9 EVO3 coupled to the Vessel View Link. (Works seamlessly with the Mercury engines-I have the 8.2 mag) It has a myriad of engine data displayed and you can edit the data info bar to your liking. Posting pictures, unless you use photo bucket, is very limited. I will take some pics of the setup and data display and hopefully keep the bytes low enough to upload. I'm very happy with the screen as you can see it from any angle. I'm still learning what the display can do. Dennis
  2. Yes it is smaller. You should have 2 aluminum braces around the gas tank, remove them (temporarily). That will allow for more working space. I replaced my water pump (which requires the removal of the crossover and heat exchanger) which was easy with the 2 braces removed. Side note-when I changed my impeller and took out the fuel module earlier, I did it with mirrors-what a pain. Now fast forward, after removing the 2 aluminum braces, the water pump, crossover and heat exchanger I saw the impeller. I observed an easier access to the impeller. Well easier than using the mirrors. Next time I will remove the crossover and heat exchanger to do the impeller job. The extra costs are only gaskets, bellows adhesive, parker lube and perfect seal, and of course Loctite. Dennis
  3. I have the 8.2 mag in my 2016 264 Sunesta. I have had up to 7 people in my boat and I can tell you the 8.2 will not disappoint. No shortage of HP. I work on my own boat, well as much as I can. The problem is shortage of space when replacing the impeller, but with patience it is all doable. I've done plugs, fuel pump, impeller and water pump (which means taking off the crossover with heat exchanger) 277 SSX is a nice boat.
  4. Bt Doctur, Is this the correct A and B,
  5. Bt Doctur, Your picture is accurate, but the terminals are not marked. From port side to starboard, there are four terminal wires: (black), (white with black stripe), (white with purple stripe), then (purple). Which are terminals A and B? Thanks
  6. Thanks, If I just wanted to clear the codes would the following sequence be correct? 1) Ignition key “OFF” 2) Remove the cap from the Data Link Connector (DLC) 4) Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position. The LED should come on steady. 5) Insert the half paperclip into terminals A and B – This puts the engine in “Service Mode” and codes will begin to flash on the LED. On 1996 and earlier engines you may hear the fuel pump come on. If not you should be able to hear the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor move. Use care in this step, do not insert in the wrong terminals or ECM damage could result! Look closely, the terminals are clearly marked. Moving the throttle to 100% and back) MOVE ALL THE WAY FORWARD THEN BACK TO NEUTRAL? TURN KEY TO OFF POSITION. THE CODES SHOULD BE RESET? Am I missing anything? Thanks
  7. "You can also be clear codes (by moving the throttle to 100% and back..." Bt Doctor, can you give my a step my step on how to clear the codes? I know what caused the faults- (electrical sensors disconnected when powering on system), my brain fade for not thinking it through.
  8. I have a smart craft gauge that states 'sensor fault' and my Simrad (which I have removed temporarily).
  9. I Hope someone can help. Background: I have a 2016 Mercury 8.2 and changed the water pump. (It had a coolant leak at the weep hole) I did the tear down, crossover and water pump and with it (unplugged the electrical connections to the coolant temperature sensor and emissions sensor) as it was part of the requirement for access to the pump. Now the problem: While the (coolant temperature sensor and emissions sensor connections) were disconnected, I turned the ignition key to the power accessory on position to check some other work I was doing and unfortunately 2 faults were recorded in the PCM. After putting everything back together (electrical connections too ) and then disconnecting the batteries for 2 hours, I turned the key to see that the faults still remain. Is there a way to clear the codes without taking it to the marine dealer? That would be $120 just to clear the codes. Thanks for any advice Dennis
  10. Take a look at these by Samson Sports: https://samsonsports.com/portfolio-posts/chaparral-wakeboard-towers/ Click on Chaparral boats. Otherwise look at Great Lakes Skipper.
  11. Hatem, I went with the Simrad evo3 with Mercury vesselview link. This is a test fit and connected to the nmea2000. When it warms up, I am going to install the Xsonic ss75m transducer. The engine data is pretty good, albeit I have to wait until spring to start the engine. I'll know more about the data sensors then. By the way, it was a little nerve racking with the air saw.
  12. WestCoastWillie, did you decide on which transducer to buy? I just installed a Simrad NSS9 EVO3 with Vesselview Link. I too am looking for a replacement transducer. I've narrowed it down to the B75M or the B175hw. I leaning toward the B75M as I don't think I will be fishing deeper than 300'.
  13. The gauge to the left is (oil pressure, battery, temperature), the gauge to the right is (water storage level, fuel level, engine trim). When Chaparral added the 742xs to the center dash, they deleted the (oil pressure, battery, temperature) gauge and they deleted the far right gauge not seen in the bezel pic above (speedo via pitot tube, and depth). Chaparral then moved the (water storage level, fuel level, engine trim) to the far right to replace the (speedo via pitot tube, and depth). In essence, the factory Garmin is suppose to show, oil pressure, battery, temperature, ground speed and depth. If you have the Smartcraft harness install with your Garmin 741 could you verify this? My plan is (before doing any cutting whether to the dash or hull) is to first purchase both the Simrad nss7 evo3 and the Garmin 742xs at the same time. I will then assess esthetically which I prefer and how well it fits with the factory Chaparral bezel, (no cutting will be done yet). (I will Use 30 day return window for the MFD I do not want). After deciding which MFD I want, I will then purchase the Mercury Smartcraft can bus harness (so as to retrieve data from engine) and NMEA 2000 starter kit. I will also need to purchase either the Mercury Gateway if I chose the Garmin, or I will purchase the Mercury Vessel View Link if I chose the Simrad. I will test the MFD (I intend to use) and while it lays on the seat (still no cutting or drilling yet) make sure I get all the data I need, i.e., engine oil pressure, battery and engine temperature. After making sure all works (with the exception ground speed and the depth finder since boat will be out of water) I will then move forward with the cutting a drilling. My understanding is Navico and Mercury products work very well together show more data than the Garmin, it just $$$. Since it is end of season and winterization is around the corner, I may wait to see if prices drop for the MFD's. The damage portion of the hull surrounding the hole will be repaired as soon as I get the resin delivered (on order). I'm sure by now it has fully dried out.
  14. This is a pic from the internet of an installed 742xs. ?
  15. My options for the MFD are the Garmin 742xs or the Simrad NSS7 evo3. What would you choose? At this moment, I’m looking at the Airmar B75M for the thru-hull transducer. If I choose the Garmin it would be the 8 pin; Simrad it would be the 9 pin connector with the B75M. Thanks
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