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  1. Hey guys, I got a response from Seastar Solutions. I thought I would share their response: For what it's worth, I do have power assist and tilt wheel... ________________________________________________________ SEASTAR SOLUTIONS Dennis, your boat probably has power steering assist on it. If so that will add free play to the steering. If it is a rack steering system that would be a 4 turn system. See below for how to check for free play in a cable steering system. Note tilt steering can add about ½ inch to the play - Start out by centering your engine or rudder. Then put your hand on the top dead center of your steering wheel. Then look at the engine end of the steering cable (with it disconnected from the engine) Move your hand in one direction (ONLY) and stop when the engine end of the cable starts to move. 2. Start out by centering your engine or rudder. Then put your hand on the top dead center of your steering wheel. Then look at the engine end of the steering cable (with it disconnected from the engine) Move your hand in one direction (ONLY) and stop when the engine end of the cable starts to move. Arrow 1 is top dead center arrow two would be where your hand stops. Between the arrows should be 2 inches or less on a 3 turn steering system. 4 turn systems could have up to 3 inches, if it is more you need a new helm. This is on a 14 inch steering wheel if you have a larger wheel your hand will move farther. Not doing the proper maintenance on the steering cable can add to free play in your steering system This should be done twice a year on all boats. The only maintenance on a cable steering system is back at the engine or rudder. You need to remove the link arm from the very end of the steering cables telescoping rod. Then undo the large nut at the end of the plastic jacket of the steering cable. Then pull plastic jacket of the cable towards the side of the boat exposing the 5/8 telescoping rod. Clean off the rod clean out the support tube and re grease it with a, WATER PROOF MARINE GREASE. Then re assemble the system to the way it was set up. Make sure to screw the nut on the plastic jacket down until it bottoms out. It is a lock nut and will feel tight before bottoming out To do the maintenance on an inboard boat you will have to undo the nut on the steering cable that screws onto the Support tube (G) Then undo the link arm like item (H) then pull the cable by the plastic jacket towards the side of the boat removing it completely from the support tube (G) Then clean and grease the cable and support tube and reassemble making sure to tighten the lock nut onto the support tube until it bottoms out. Use a good water proof marine grease. Do this maintenance at least twice a year Thanks Jim Jim Corday Tech Support Rep II Phone +1 610-495-7011 Jim.Corday@dometic.com Dometic, 640 N Lewis Rd, Limerick, PA, 19468, United States dometic.com seastarsolutions.com
  2. Can you guys comment on how many inches of free play you currently have in your steering wheel? I bought my boat used with 40 hrs on the clock and the steering had about 3 inches of play at the time. I have no idea what the steering should feel like when brand new from the factory. I would like to replace the the spline and the cable (hoping for little free play of no more that 1 inch) compared to what I have now at 3 1/2 inches. I have sent an email to Teleflex (now Seastar Solutions) for their opinion. Thoughts?
  3. Thanks guys, I appreciate your input. One thing I did notice was that my steering cable seems too long, about 2'. From the helm as the cable goes to the stern, It drapes downward from the top of the gunnel to the very bottom and then goes back up again to the top as it goes through fiberglass wall that separates the engine compartment. It appears that Chaparral perhaps ordered certain length steering cables that would work in a variety of lengths of boats? Maybe this is where I getting so much free-play.
  4. So guys I need to know how much steering play is normal. The reason I ask is because the bow wandering seems constant. I know that our deep v-hulls are a factor, but perhaps a new steering cable is in order. The boat is a 2016 Sunesta 264 Bravo 3 X drive with 114 hours on the engine. (The Gimbal is tight - outdrive moves 1/8" back and forth with free play - Mercury Customer support states that is normal play) The issue I am seeing is the steering wheel has 3 1/2" of play moving it back and forth. The steering shaft and the steering rack is about 1/4" free play. I hoping someone can tell me if replacing the cable will reduce this 3 1/2" steering play. (the Teleflex kit I believe comes with new steering wheel spline and cable). thanks for the your help, Dennis
  5. Thanks VAboater. Crutchfield sent me an email updating my order status stating the M6's are still on back order and won't arrive in their warehouse until August 17th. This is my opportunity to rethink the M6's. I will research the M3's. Thanks again for your sound advise. Dennis
  6. Thanks Summerx and Stretch79. I did order 4 x JL M6-650X. I would like to add a good Sub later, so I will be in the hunt for nice 5-6 channel amp The speakers are plug and play albeit drilling new holes in the boat. I plan on using the factory Stainless Steel premium cover over these speakers. (They should fit) With regard to the amp, it sounds like JL is the way to go, pricey, but good quality. Running new gauge power wire and learning how to connect everything up is the learning curve. Thanks, Dennis
  7. Thanks very much VAboater. I am going to invest in the JL 600/6 amp. Do I wire it with 8 gauge power for the amp directly to the house battery? I kinda wish this was going to be plug and play. As far as the upgrade for the speakers - this is the response from the JL AUDIO TEAM: WRITTEN TO JL AUDIO FROM - Dennis Flaherty Aug 4, 2020, 11:29 AM EDT I have purchased (through Crutchfield -currently on back-order, so I still have options to cancel) the M6-650X for my Chaparral boat. No tower - so only 4 speakers. I would like to use my existing factory installed Clarion CMS2. It only puts out RMS 20 watts, peak 50 watts. Will I experience problems with this setup at higher volumes? Distortion? Any foreseen problems? This purchase will allow potential, if needed, upgrades to my existing setup. See pictures of my (head unit and amp) taken from Crutchfield website. Thanks-Dennis. ------------------ Submitted from: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/marine-audio Attachment(s) IMG_2571.jpg IMG_2573.jpg JL AUDIO RESPONSE: Mike Fukuda (JL Audio) Aug 4, 2020, 11:53 AM EDT Good Morning Dennis, Of course you will have no issues with using just the CMS2 to power (4) M6-650X speakers. I do understand your concerns about the power output of the CMS2 to the M6-650X speakers. However, since the M6-650X speakers have the following ratings: Continuous Power Handling (RMS) of 75W Recommend Amplifier Power (RMS) range of 25W to 150W per channel Experiencing clipping or distortion would really not have an impact. Since the M6-650X speakers can handle more power that what is supplied by the CMS2. The use of a 4-channel amplifier is highly recommended so you can obtain the best speaker performance and audio experience. I would recommend either the MX280/4; 4-channel Class-D Amplifier (70W x 4 @ 4-Ohms) or the M400/4; 4-channel Class-D Amplifier (75W x 4 @ 4-O)hms. MX280/4 link: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/marine-audio-amplifiers-mx/products/mx280-4-car-audio-mx-amplifiers-98405 M400/4 link: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/m-series-marine-amplifiers/products/m400-4-marine-audio-m-series-amplifiers-98271 I hope this addresses your concerns. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Visit the JL Audio Website Get more answers in the Help Center Test drive TüN DSP Software for FREE [XZGL89-GK8Q]
  8. Thanks guys. I never realized it would be the underpowered amp that would cause this distortion. Does anyone else have the Clarion CMS2 with these Panasonic speakers in their boat? I am the second owner of the boat. The original owner did say it has the premium sound system. I wonder if not having a Radar arch and no tower speakers caused Chaparral to just put this head unit with a small amp in this boat. If you google Clarion CMS2 a link appears with Crutchfield. It appears the Clarion CMS2 with this amp was a package deal. It is discontinued but the new model CMS20 has the same specs. Do you guys having any suggestions as to what amp I should put in? Make and model? I am a DIY guy, but stereo electronics can be a little intimidating. Thanks, Dennis
  9. I hoping someone can share their expertise for my future speaker upgrade. I am primarily doing this for my daughter and her friends who I visit three or four times a year when going boating on the Sacramento Delta. My daughter likes to turn the music volume up high while under way. I am changing out the Panasonic 6 1/2’ 160 watt speakers which I noticed to distort really bad. I never noticed it before since I don’t turn the volume that high, and my wife and I are always at anchor while we play music. I have the Clarion CMS2. The spec sheet states - (20 watts RMS CEA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels) per channel. I do not have a wake board tower. No sub woofer. I contacted Crutchfield and they say that it is most likely the speakers, that they cannot handle the high output. I did notice that the Clarion was set to the loud mode, and when turned it to (OFF) it did sound better. Still, I think I’ll replace the speakers. I’m looking at the 6.5” replacements - JL M6 or M3, or Wet Sounds Revo’s. Is this over kill for my current setup? Will my current setup sound good with these potential choices for upgraded speakers since they need more power? What do you guys suggest? Remember, I’m only interested in changing out the speakers - for now. Thanks Dennis
  10. I have changed my impeller on my 2016 Sunesta 8.2 mag via removing the cool fuel module. (No fun- it was very tight) Now, I later had to change my water pump for the closed cooling system (which requires the removal of the crossover and heat exchanger) which was easy with the 2 aluminum braces removed near the gas tank. I discovered that with the crossover and heat exchanger removed, the impeller can now be accessed. This will be my method of choice when I do the impeller again. The extra costs are only gaskets, bellows adhesive, parker lube and perfect seal, and of course Loctite. Dennis
  11. Dozer, Congrats on your setup! post some pics of the installed unit. I have the Simard NSS9 EVO3 coupled to the Vessel View Link. (Works seamlessly with the Mercury engines-I have the 8.2 mag) It has a myriad of engine data displayed and you can edit the data info bar to your liking. Posting pictures, unless you use photo bucket, is very limited. I will take some pics of the setup and data display and hopefully keep the bytes low enough to upload. I'm very happy with the screen as you can see it from any angle. I'm still learning what the display can do. Dennis
  12. Yes it is smaller. You should have 2 aluminum braces around the gas tank, remove them (temporarily). That will allow for more working space. I replaced my water pump (which requires the removal of the crossover and heat exchanger) which was easy with the 2 braces removed. Side note-when I changed my impeller and took out the fuel module earlier, I did it with mirrors-what a pain. Now fast forward, after removing the 2 aluminum braces, the water pump, crossover and heat exchanger I saw the impeller. I observed an easier access to the impeller. Well easier than using the mirrors. Next time I will remove the crossover and heat exchanger to do the impeller job. The extra costs are only gaskets, bellows adhesive, parker lube and perfect seal, and of course Loctite. Dennis
  13. I have the 8.2 mag in my 2016 264 Sunesta. I have had up to 7 people in my boat and I can tell you the 8.2 will not disappoint. No shortage of HP. I work on my own boat, well as much as I can. The problem is shortage of space when replacing the impeller, but with patience it is all doable. I've done plugs, fuel pump, impeller and water pump (which means taking off the crossover with heat exchanger) 277 SSX is a nice boat.
  14. Bt Doctur, Is this the correct A and B,
  15. Bt Doctur, Your picture is accurate, but the terminals are not marked. From port side to starboard, there are four terminal wires: (black), (white with black stripe), (white with purple stripe), then (purple). Which are terminals A and B? Thanks
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