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Everything posted by Dennis10912

  1. Hey guys, I got a response from Seastar Solutions. I thought I would share their response: For what it's worth, I do have power assist and tilt wheel... ________________________________________________________ SEASTAR SOLUTIONS Dennis, your boat probably has power steering assist on it. If so that will add free play to the steering. If it is a rack steering system that would be a 4 turn system. See below for how to check for free play in a cable steering system. Note tilt steering can add about ½ inch to the play - Start out by centering your engi
  2. Can you guys comment on how many inches of free play you currently have in your steering wheel? I bought my boat used with 40 hrs on the clock and the steering had about 3 inches of play at the time. I have no idea what the steering should feel like when brand new from the factory. I would like to replace the the spline and the cable (hoping for little free play of no more that 1 inch) compared to what I have now at 3 1/2 inches. I have sent an email to Teleflex (now Seastar Solutions) for their opinion. Thoughts?
  3. Thanks guys, I appreciate your input. One thing I did notice was that my steering cable seems too long, about 2'. From the helm as the cable goes to the stern, It drapes downward from the top of the gunnel to the very bottom and then goes back up again to the top as it goes through fiberglass wall that separates the engine compartment. It appears that Chaparral perhaps ordered certain length steering cables that would work in a variety of lengths of boats? Maybe this is where I getting so much free-play.
  4. So guys I need to know how much steering play is normal. The reason I ask is because the bow wandering seems constant. I know that our deep v-hulls are a factor, but perhaps a new steering cable is in order. The boat is a 2016 Sunesta 264 Bravo 3 X drive with 114 hours on the engine. (The Gimbal is tight - outdrive moves 1/8" back and forth with free play - Mercury Customer support states that is normal play) The issue I am seeing is the steering wheel has 3 1/2" of play moving it back and forth. The steering shaft and the steering rack is about 1/4" free play. I hoping someone can tell me
  5. Thanks VAboater. Crutchfield sent me an email updating my order status stating the M6's are still on back order and won't arrive in their warehouse until August 17th. This is my opportunity to rethink the M6's. I will research the M3's. Thanks again for your sound advise. Dennis
  6. Thanks Summerx and Stretch79. I did order 4 x JL M6-650X. I would like to add a good Sub later, so I will be in the hunt for nice 5-6 channel amp The speakers are plug and play albeit drilling new holes in the boat. I plan on using the factory Stainless Steel premium cover over these speakers. (They should fit) With regard to the amp, it sounds like JL is the way to go, pricey, but good quality. Running new gauge power wire and learning how to connect everything up is the learning curve. Thanks, Dennis
  7. Thanks very much VAboater. I am going to invest in the JL 600/6 amp. Do I wire it with 8 gauge power for the amp directly to the house battery? I kinda wish this was going to be plug and play. As far as the upgrade for the speakers - this is the response from the JL AUDIO TEAM: WRITTEN TO JL AUDIO FROM - Dennis Flaherty Aug 4, 2020, 11:29 AM EDT I have purchased (through Crutchfield -currently on back-order, so I still have options to cancel) the M
  8. Thanks guys. I never realized it would be the underpowered amp that would cause this distortion. Does anyone else have the Clarion CMS2 with these Panasonic speakers in their boat? I am the second owner of the boat. The original owner did say it has the premium sound system. I wonder if not having a Radar arch and no tower speakers caused Chaparral to just put this head unit with a small amp in this boat. If you google Clarion CMS2 a link appears with Crutchfield. It appears the Clarion CMS2 with this amp was a package deal. It is discontinued but the new model CMS20 has the same specs. D
  9. I hoping someone can share their expertise for my future speaker upgrade. I am primarily doing this for my daughter and her friends who I visit three or four times a year when going boating on the Sacramento Delta. My daughter likes to turn the music volume up high while under way. I am changing out the Panasonic 6 1/2’ 160 watt speakers which I noticed to distort really bad. I never noticed it before since I don’t turn the volume that high, and my wife and I are always at anchor while we play music. I have the Clarion CMS2. The spec sheet states - (20 watts RMS CEA-2006/50 peak x 4 chann
  10. I have changed my impeller on my 2016 Sunesta 8.2 mag via removing the cool fuel module. (No fun- it was very tight) Now, I later had to change my water pump for the closed cooling system (which requires the removal of the crossover and heat exchanger) which was easy with the 2 aluminum braces removed near the gas tank. I discovered that with the crossover and heat exchanger removed, the impeller can now be accessed. This will be my method of choice when I do the impeller again. The extra costs are only gaskets, bellows adhesive, parker lube and perfect seal, and of course Loctite. Denn
  11. Dozer, Congrats on your setup! post some pics of the installed unit. I have the Simard NSS9 EVO3 coupled to the Vessel View Link. (Works seamlessly with the Mercury engines-I have the 8.2 mag) It has a myriad of engine data displayed and you can edit the data info bar to your liking. Posting pictures, unless you use photo bucket, is very limited. I will take some pics of the setup and data display and hopefully keep the bytes low enough to upload. I'm very happy with the screen as you can see it from any angle. I'm still learning what the display can do. Dennis
  12. Yes it is smaller. You should have 2 aluminum braces around the gas tank, remove them (temporarily). That will allow for more working space. I replaced my water pump (which requires the removal of the crossover and heat exchanger) which was easy with the 2 braces removed. Side note-when I changed my impeller and took out the fuel module earlier, I did it with mirrors-what a pain. Now fast forward, after removing the 2 aluminum braces, the water pump, crossover and heat exchanger I saw the impeller. I observed an easier access to the impeller. Well easier than using the mirrors. Next t
  13. I have the 8.2 mag in my 2016 264 Sunesta. I have had up to 7 people in my boat and I can tell you the 8.2 will not disappoint. No shortage of HP. I work on my own boat, well as much as I can. The problem is shortage of space when replacing the impeller, but with patience it is all doable. I've done plugs, fuel pump, impeller and water pump (which means taking off the crossover with heat exchanger) 277 SSX is a nice boat.
  14. Bt Doctur, Is this the correct A and B,
  15. Bt Doctur, Your picture is accurate, but the terminals are not marked. From port side to starboard, there are four terminal wires: (black), (white with black stripe), (white with purple stripe), then (purple). Which are terminals A and B? Thanks
  16. Thanks, If I just wanted to clear the codes would the following sequence be correct? 1) Ignition key “OFF” 2) Remove the cap from the Data Link Connector (DLC) 4) Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position. The LED should come on steady. 5) Insert the half paperclip into terminals A and B – This puts the engine in “Service Mode” and codes will begin to flash on the LED. On 1996 and earlier engines you may hear the fuel pump come on. If not you should be able to hear the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor move. Use care in this step, do not insert in the wrong terminals or ECM da
  17. "You can also be clear codes (by moving the throttle to 100% and back..." Bt Doctor, can you give my a step my step on how to clear the codes? I know what caused the faults- (electrical sensors disconnected when powering on system), my brain fade for not thinking it through.
  18. I have a smart craft gauge that states 'sensor fault' and my Simrad (which I have removed temporarily).
  19. I Hope someone can help. Background: I have a 2016 Mercury 8.2 and changed the water pump. (It had a coolant leak at the weep hole) I did the tear down, crossover and water pump and with it (unplugged the electrical connections to the coolant temperature sensor and emissions sensor) as it was part of the requirement for access to the pump. Now the problem: While the (coolant temperature sensor and emissions sensor connections) were disconnected, I turned the ignition key to the power accessory on position to check some other work I was doing and unfortunately 2 faults were recorded in
  20. Take a look at these by Samson Sports: https://samsonsports.com/portfolio-posts/chaparral-wakeboard-towers/ Click on Chaparral boats. Otherwise look at Great Lakes Skipper.
  21. Hatem, I went with the Simrad evo3 with Mercury vesselview link. This is a test fit and connected to the nmea2000. When it warms up, I am going to install the Xsonic ss75m transducer. The engine data is pretty good, albeit I have to wait until spring to start the engine. I'll know more about the data sensors then. By the way, it was a little nerve racking with the air saw.
  22. WestCoastWillie, did you decide on which transducer to buy? I just installed a Simrad NSS9 EVO3 with Vesselview Link. I too am looking for a replacement transducer. I've narrowed it down to the B75M or the B175hw. I leaning toward the B75M as I don't think I will be fishing deeper than 300'.
  23. The gauge to the left is (oil pressure, battery, temperature), the gauge to the right is (water storage level, fuel level, engine trim). When Chaparral added the 742xs to the center dash, they deleted the (oil pressure, battery, temperature) gauge and they deleted the far right gauge not seen in the bezel pic above (speedo via pitot tube, and depth). Chaparral then moved the (water storage level, fuel level, engine trim) to the far right to replace the (speedo via pitot tube, and depth). In essence, the factory Garmin is suppose to show, oil pressure, battery, temperature, ground speed and
  24. This is a pic from the internet of an installed 742xs. ?
  25. My options for the MFD are the Garmin 742xs or the Simrad NSS7 evo3. What would you choose? At this moment, I’m looking at the Airmar B75M for the thru-hull transducer. If I choose the Garmin it would be the 8 pin; Simrad it would be the 9 pin connector with the B75M. Thanks
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