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  1. does anyone recommend a 3 bank smart charger? NOCO, DUAL PRO, MINN KOTA, PROMARINER https://www.amazon.ca/NOCO-GEN3-Waterproof-Battery-Charger/dp/B003JSO1X2/ref=pd_sbs_200_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003JSO1X2&pd_rd_r=a4c3c0cf-7bda-11e9-a967-b34187462b23&pd_rd_w=Irs4a&pd_rd_wg=mBty0&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=EM0GP8SJBASGQEKNWHWD&psc=1&refRID=EM0GP8SJBASGQEKNWHWD The NOCO is appealing, just read that it doesn't work with some AGM 31 bank
  2. Hi Wylie, Yes I know the optimas are AGM. But was I was told that these batteries need a constant charge. The problem I have understood from reading about this particular charger is that it will shut off as soon as 1 battery has reached full charge, so if i have drained down the house battery and the starting battery is fully charged, the charge controller cannot charge independently. which would kill an AGM within a few years. I apologize if I am misinformed about this charge controller.
  3. I need to replace both batteries in my 260 Signature. I have lots of room and access so I was thinking of flooded. I was initially looking at the Optima D34M Battery as I was looking batteries that would work with the PROTECH 4 charge controller wouldn't properly charge a starter battery and a deep cycle so i assumed it would be best to go with a dual purpose AGM or regular flooded. I believe Wingnut used Interstate from past threads I read on here, but not much discussion on this. I would prefer not to change out the charge controller at this time.
  4. Now I have another problem, After running the engine and everything seems ok, I went to fill fresh water tank. I am positive it was winterized properly, all the pipes had pink through them, the water heater was fully drained first. (I own a travel trailer and winterize the frsh water system all the time) So the heat exchanger I assume is not leaking because the engine is running fine no leaks. water started pouring out rear left corner from what I could tell. I checked all the fittings were tight and not leaking. I have a Seaward F-600, so if this is original from 2002 I can expect it has reached end of Life? Some people state theirs leaked after a few years. I can always bypass the water heater after the pump to solve temporarily. Need to decide if we use hot water enough to justify $500 to replace whole unit. Any ideas?
  5. the 4x4 worked great. So it looks like I dodged a bullet. The freeze plug popped out and was brass. I could not believe how difficult this was to do. some Engineer design idiot used this engine mount to attach another bracket for something else and will not let the mount to fully be removed. I was able to move it to the side slightly and get 1" of room to try and get freeze plug back in, But I could not get a new plug in (1 5/8), couldn't get an expandable in because the engine mount was in the way from putting it flush as the expandable is about 2" thick. After hours of frustration, I grabbed the old frost plug and banged it back it. So overall the problem seems to be fixed, no water leaking, no water in bilge, no water in oil, engine maintain temp of 140 after 1/2 hour at around 2000 rpm.
  6. i am using a 4x4 that should be good?
  7. Well here is my brief update. I pulled a herniated disc lifting my son, so I am unable to do the repair quite yet. Thank-you for all your advice, especially wingnut once again. I designed the lift using 1/2" threaded rod. Let me know if I did it correctly. I can remove the one nut above the chains and put it up on top and have a double nut. There are also 1/2" washers that can also be doubled up under chains. Thanks again.
  8. thank you that helps. Do I use a washer and nut to attach the chain to the all thread?
  9. To be honest, I didnt understand visually all of what Wingnut said. Anyone have a drawing or picture of such device? sorry I think I have an idea, just not clear
  10. I cannot find the plug in the bilge and it is rusty at the hole so i assumed it rusted away vs popped. Possible the plug has fallen behind the engine mount bracket. I have ordered a pack of 5 brass expandable plugs and will also pick up the quick silver bras 1 5/8 plug. So back to supporting the engine this is was I have researched and want opinions. Using a bumper or basketball, deflate and put under port side engine. Loosed Engine mount nut stringer side enough so that there is 1mm of room Pump basketball slowly until you see corner slightly lift. Undue engine mount bracket bolts on engine, if possible swing bracket to side without having to undue the Nut entirely. Clean up hole and install plug. reinstall engine mount bracket bolts on engine, then slowly deflate basketball until engine rests back in place, then tighten nut. Torque everything to oem spec. This can all be done without having to do an alignment as the engine height didnt change when rested back and 1mm increase in height wouldn't cause stress on other mounts. Has anyone heard or tried this?
  11. I have a 2002 260 sig with 350 Mag MPI BIII. The Freeze plug on port side has rusted away. It is directly behind the front engine mount. Has anyone ever replaced these before? Do I use quicksilver brass plugs or rubber expandable? How to I safely support the engine front port side so I can remove the Engine mount? I do not want to raise or lower the engine, just support the weight. I am not sure if I can fit a 2x6 across stringers under front of oil pan and support with a scissor jack but that is what I was thinking but not sure if I can damage hull or oil pan doing this. If the motor weighs 950 lbs then approx. 250 lbs per engine mount would be fair to assume? Any suggestions or ideas would be great. Thank-you
  12. I have a 2002 260 having this problem. The rounded sliding track knob wont stay in the holder on the bottom of the door at the front of the door. If you stick it under the door closes smoothly, but slides off as soon as you open door. How do I fix this?
  13. So the boat is winterized. I did not fog the engine because I was uncomfortable removing the fuel line. The fuel filter also has a warning the contents are under pressure so I didnt want to remove it either as I could have put a mix of gas/2 stroke in the fuel filter and ran it but a local marina said not to bother with MPI. Just add Sta-bil to fuel and run for 15 min which i did. I also forgot to lower my stern drive when I parked it in the indoor storage (non heated) so I removed the batteries. Should I go back up to lower the stern drive? It is a good 2.5 hour drive to the storage so dont want to go up if I do not have too. I do not know if the rubber bellows will take a set in the up position. Any advice here?
  14. So I have already filled up on premium 93 octane and added a full bottle of Sta-bil and have run the engine for 15 min. I will search and read up more on forums for the 350 Mag MPI fogging suggestions as you said. I plan to test the voltage again this weekend and will post my results. New alternator will arrive today. Thanks for all your help.
  15. So it is time to winterize and I have successfully done the fresh water system and A/C with -50 non toxic antifreeze with the -100 for the engine and alternator on its way. I am changing the oil and filter in the Genny tonight and tomorrow I plan to fog engine and this is where I am lost. I know a lot of people use a 5 gallon gas tank with 2 stroke oil and some stabilizer and run that through the intake before the fuel filter. (I hope that is correct) I am not sure I am comfortable doing this (dangerous) and wondering if there is a simpler and effective way to do it. I have also read to put a few ounces of 2 stroke oil in the fuel filter and then run it for a few minutes. Would I do this with a new fuel filter I plan to change or use the old one to do it? (I am in Canada and this is fresh water boat only if that makes any difference) I also read about fogging spray and to remove the flame arrestor and spray into throttle intake, but unsure if this will do any good on an MPI. Separate issue...... Also I have noticed that the voltage meter spikes up to over 16 when I rev the engine but sits at 13 when idle. I have bought a new alternator as a spare incase it is the voltage regulator gone in it. (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGIDNFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) i also have the ProMariner Protech 4 which I hear is garbage and doesnt alternate between batteries that need charging. I assume it is the alternator causing the overcharge? Sorry for my lack of inexperience and I thank everyone for all their help. I have learned so much is such a short time
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