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BusterDouglas

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Everything posted by BusterDouglas

  1. does anyone recommend a 3 bank smart charger? NOCO, DUAL PRO, MINN KOTA, PROMARINER https://www.amazon.ca/NOCO-GEN3-Waterproof-Battery-Charger/dp/B003JSO1X2/ref=pd_sbs_200_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003JSO1X2&pd_rd_r=a4c3c0cf-7bda-11e9-a967-b34187462b23&pd_rd_w=Irs4a&pd_rd_wg=mBty0&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=EM0GP8SJBASGQEKNWHWD&psc=1&refRID=EM0GP8SJBASGQEKNWHWD The NOCO is appealing, just read that it doesn't work with some AGM 31 bank
  2. Hi Wylie, Yes I know the optimas are AGM. But was I was told that these batteries need a constant charge. The problem I have understood from reading about this particular charger is that it will shut off as soon as 1 battery has reached full charge, so if i have drained down the house battery and the starting battery is fully charged, the charge controller cannot charge independently. which would kill an AGM within a few years. I apologize if I am misinformed about this charge controller.
  3. I need to replace both batteries in my 260 Signature. I have lots of room and access so I was thinking of flooded. I was initially looking at the Optima D34M Battery as I was looking batteries that would work with the PROTECH 4 charge controller wouldn't properly charge a starter battery and a deep cycle so i assumed it would be best to go with a dual purpose AGM or regular flooded. I believe Wingnut used Interstate from past threads I read on here, but not much discussion on this. I would prefer not to change out the charge controller at this time.
  4. Now I have another problem, After running the engine and everything seems ok, I went to fill fresh water tank. I am positive it was winterized properly, all the pipes had pink through them, the water heater was fully drained first. (I own a travel trailer and winterize the frsh water system all the time) So the heat exchanger I assume is not leaking because the engine is running fine no leaks. water started pouring out rear left corner from what I could tell. I checked all the fittings were tight and not leaking. I have a Seaward F-600, so if this is original from 2002 I can
  5. the 4x4 worked great. So it looks like I dodged a bullet. The freeze plug popped out and was brass. I could not believe how difficult this was to do. some Engineer design idiot used this engine mount to attach another bracket for something else and will not let the mount to fully be removed. I was able to move it to the side slightly and get 1" of room to try and get freeze plug back in, But I could not get a new plug in (1 5/8), couldn't get an expandable in because the engine mount was in the way from putting it flush as the expandable is about 2" thick. After hours of frus
  6. i am using a 4x4 that should be good?
  7. Well here is my brief update. I pulled a herniated disc lifting my son, so I am unable to do the repair quite yet. Thank-you for all your advice, especially wingnut once again. I designed the lift using 1/2" threaded rod. Let me know if I did it correctly. I can remove the one nut above the chains and put it up on top and have a double nut. There are also 1/2" washers that can also be doubled up under chains. Thanks again.
  8. thank you that helps. Do I use a washer and nut to attach the chain to the all thread?
  9. To be honest, I didnt understand visually all of what Wingnut said. Anyone have a drawing or picture of such device? sorry I think I have an idea, just not clear
  10. I cannot find the plug in the bilge and it is rusty at the hole so i assumed it rusted away vs popped. Possible the plug has fallen behind the engine mount bracket. I have ordered a pack of 5 brass expandable plugs and will also pick up the quick silver bras 1 5/8 plug. So back to supporting the engine this is was I have researched and want opinions. Using a bumper or basketball, deflate and put under port side engine. Loosed Engine mount nut stringer side enough so that there is 1mm of room Pump basketball slowly until you see corner slightly lift. Undue engine mou
  11. I have a 2002 260 sig with 350 Mag MPI BIII. The Freeze plug on port side has rusted away. It is directly behind the front engine mount. Has anyone ever replaced these before? Do I use quicksilver brass plugs or rubber expandable? How to I safely support the engine front port side so I can remove the Engine mount? I do not want to raise or lower the engine, just support the weight. I am not sure if I can fit a 2x6 across stringers under front of oil pan and support with a scissor jack but that is what I was thinking but not sure if I can damage hull or oil pan doing this. If
  12. I have a 2002 260 having this problem. The rounded sliding track knob wont stay in the holder on the bottom of the door at the front of the door. If you stick it under the door closes smoothly, but slides off as soon as you open door. How do I fix this?
  13. So the boat is winterized. I did not fog the engine because I was uncomfortable removing the fuel line. The fuel filter also has a warning the contents are under pressure so I didnt want to remove it either as I could have put a mix of gas/2 stroke in the fuel filter and ran it but a local marina said not to bother with MPI. Just add Sta-bil to fuel and run for 15 min which i did. I also forgot to lower my stern drive when I parked it in the indoor storage (non heated) so I removed the batteries. Should I go back up to lower the stern drive? It is a good 2.5 hour drive to the storage
  14. So I have already filled up on premium 93 octane and added a full bottle of Sta-bil and have run the engine for 15 min. I will search and read up more on forums for the 350 Mag MPI fogging suggestions as you said. I plan to test the voltage again this weekend and will post my results. New alternator will arrive today. Thanks for all your help.
  15. So it is time to winterize and I have successfully done the fresh water system and A/C with -50 non toxic antifreeze with the -100 for the engine and alternator on its way. I am changing the oil and filter in the Genny tonight and tomorrow I plan to fog engine and this is where I am lost. I know a lot of people use a 5 gallon gas tank with 2 stroke oil and some stabilizer and run that through the intake before the fuel filter. (I hope that is correct) I am not sure I am comfortable doing this (dangerous) and wondering if there is a simpler and effective way to do it. I have also read t
  16. Hi OCMD2, The concern is if I decide to get a slip, it will have to be painted, so do I just get the blisters repaired and the bottom painted regardless. I also got a reply from the marine surveyor: "This was sighted during my inspection. Percussion sounding did not indicate any structural concern. This is common on inside and outside corners, and is caused by access material , mainly fairing and gelcoat, in layup, that has dried and shrunk over time. . " Does that make sense to anyone who also has had this cracking in the corners of the engine mount ?
  17. Surveyor didnt get back to me. I havnt picked up the meter yet, still deciding if it is worth getting one or if it will just cause me more greif spending more time constantly scanning entire boat and less time on the water enjoying it. Hard to beleive i am a boat owner for less than 2 months now yet feel like i have learned so much so fast with so much more to learn.
  18. Hi Wingnut, I tried to send you a message and it said that you cant receive messages. Did you want me to send you an email to your yahoo email account?
  19. Wow, makes me wish I had a 496 Merc HO 425 HP with Bravo III-X Drive so I could copy this exactly. Do you mind me asking where you bought all of your gear? and by the way, thanks so much for sharing Wingnut. If anyone has a 350 Mag and has steps like Wingnut, please share. This is very informative and helpful.
  20. Anyone see any steps I missed in winterizing process other than the shrink wrap which I plan to store indoors? So as per pictures in marine survey, the chipped white showing blue is the fiberglass and that is what needs to be epoxy, just want to be clear on that. Would I be able to use something like MagicEzy http://magicezy.com/ anyone have experience with this product?
  21. Awesome advice, Yeah no offense on who wears the pants to be honest. The wife is also the bread winner (She is a partner in largest account firm in the world) so she does get final say, hence the reason why I went low on my first boat purchase as I was sure to get audited! Thanks for insight on Gelcoat, I thought it was the outer "white" coating on the boat, not a clear film no thicker than a mil. I will let the boat dry out over winter and get it prepped for blister repair (as I can see blue so that might be fiberglass showing), then have it painted in March/April and get crack fil
  22. Anyone know a reputable fiberglass shop in Toronto or South Lake simcoe area (keswick/ sutton)?
  23. wow all excellent advice. I definitely will not tackle painting the bottom myself. I just wanted to know if the entire gelcoat needed to be stripped in order to fix the blisters. Because I am new, I didnt know if the bottom paint can go directly on the gelcoat or if the gelcoat had to be sanded/stripped anyways for bottom paint to adhere. I have so much to learn and need to read a lot more of these forums, then ask these questions. I have never owned a boat, never driven one before and never looked at one before,. I found this vessel online after doing my research, put a deposit on it and p
  24. Very valuable insight. Thanks again. Let me clarify a few things. I did have a sea trial and everything was functioning as it should such as generator, windlass, head, lights, A/C, fridge etc. the only thing not tested is the fireboy auto extinguisher( lets hope I never have too). It ran very smooth. Up here is Canada we have a power squadron course I plan on taking but have already passed and obtained the required license for operating a boat. I have launched the boat and put back on the trailer several time now, towed it several hundred kilometers, no issues. I have docked it man
  25. Thank-you for the information Hatem and taking your time to read the survey. I plan on bringing it home and doing a thorough cleaning of the bilge before winterizing and plan to store it indoors over the winter( not heated ) but then will check moisture readings before launching in the spring. I will post the response from the marine surveyor here. Any thoughts on the blisters/gelcoat and how to proceed with bottom paint, or just leave it. I only worry if wife wants a slip in the spring and it needs to be painted but cant because blister issue. From my understanding the gel
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