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StrykeKing

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  1. Lol yea I would like to if I can I basically gave my old boat away for nothing and if I can use the trim tabs some how I’d feel like it wasn’t for nothing...that’s a good idea about cutting them. Just put the motor back in today so I’ll try and tackle it soon. Are the smart tabs comparable to the regular setup?
  2. Hello I have a pair of 18 x 9 inch tabs I took off my old boat that I want to install on my 2350 Sx. my question is for those that have a 2350 or similar transom setup did you use the same size tabs or something smaller. After doing a mock up I would need to relocate my transducer closer to the center to allow the tab on the right clearance. Let me know what you think, thanks.
  3. got the motor out finally, trying to finalize my plan of attack
  4. got the motor out, trying to decide on next step.
  5. Getting close to ordering a long block, should I just order the exact same engine or go with a newer generation motor. I currently have a 1990 Mercruiser 7.4L Bravo IV 454, whats the newest gen motor I can use the majority of my existing accessories with?
  6. Had a collapsed lifter and dropped off at repair the repair shop on December 27th and got it back from them after 3 months only to take it out and have it start knocking again. Dropped it back off they said they would get right on it and see what’s going on and that ended up taking a month without them even looking at it. Needless to say I’d had enough and brought it back home and found out there is now water in the oil in addition to a wiped cam. So I’m pulling it and going to either rebuild or replace. For those who’ve been down this road before any predictions on whether it’s
  7. Thanks for all the info, I definitely want a crate motor but I gotta weight out all options. Those prices aren’t too bad considering no core charge.
  8. So my season was short lived, got it back from shop ran decent for a few hrs and then I heard a loud noise then sounded like the same rocker rattling noise, couldn’t rev past idle with out loud noise. Got it home opened valve cover and now I have milky oil. So it’s time to finally rebuild or replace. If I purchase a short block , what exactly am I asking the machine shop to do as far as inspection to see if the heads are in decent shape. Trying to get all the numbers together and see what’s best in the long run. So far on my todo list are: get oil cooler tested, check intake man
  9. Thanks for all the info, once I get it wired up I’ll post a pic
  10. Do you mean water damage from the manifold or the exhaust?
  11. I ended up taking it to a boat repair place, after it was all said and done, they replaced 2 lifters. And stated that the cam was partially wiped/worn down and that a complete rebuild would be imminent. It’s currently running but I’m taking it as easy as I can and saving for another motor or possible rebuild.
  12. Hello I need help on how to wire my batteries. I currently have a starting battery for crank and a deep cycle for all non essential accessories. I need both batteries on when the boat is in use but I don’t want them tied together for fear of sound system dropping current on both batteries too low to crank. Im thinking I need 2 on/off switches for each battery. (I keep the boat on a trailer and may only use it once every 2 weeks.) Is it possible for both batteries to receive a charge while running? Or will it always be a scenario of having to recharge the non essential battery
  13. I heard this ticking sound and asked a few people what it could be so far I've been pointed in the direction of a collapsed lifter. One person said it could be a cam lobe ground down, not really sure. I removed the valve cover and the last rocker on cylinder 8 was very loose and had at least a 1/4 inch of play. So the plan is to remove the intake and replace the lifter if that's the problem and if not then the whole motor will have to be pulled and went through. Any input and advice is always appreciated.
  14. Got to the root of the problem Solenoid stuck in/gear out.
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