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Rwright1985

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  1. Rwright1985

    2001 260 SSI Stereo replacement

    If you look for a manual for the old radio you can see the color coding for the old harness. The only thing might get tricky if your not satisfied with how existing is installed are the Battery (constant hot) and ignition as people play with those depending on preference (If boat sits a lot battery wire may not go to the battery or if they leave radio on at a sandbar ignition wire may be routed differently). I say get new radio and unhook old harness 1 wire at a time and connect to new harness per wiring diagram provided. Typically you will have 2 wires per speaker channel (4 speakers, 8 wires) 1 battery wire which is constant hot (but usually routed to battery switch or tied into ignition wire on boat due to preventing drawing battery down with long periods of sitting) 1 wire for ignition (sometimes radio battery wire tied in here too so 2 wires from radio harness to boat or it gets routed to battery switch so radio can be on while anchored at a sand bar) 1 wire for ground and 1 for remote power (Power antenna, amp...). If you are running more speakers than 4 should be wired in parallel or series which is resistance math to get right. A basic radio is easy and there are many online guides for free.
  2. Rwright1985

    2001 260 SSI Stereo replacement

    IMO get what you like, Fusion has an amazing reputation but gets expensive. If you dont have a proprietary amp or anything special any radio will work and wiring is simple and provided with the cd player, only thing questionable is remote. Since you have a remote already you can probably pull wires for whatever connection new remote will need, just make sure everything is same mounting ( some remotes are a standard hole, some have funky mounts) You can look at the parts guide for your boat on chaps website and if it is stock see what came with it. On my 186 the cd went out so i replaced with AM/FM Bluetooth jvc and got infinity speakers and a Skar 4ch amp. Biggest thing was pulling battery switch to hook amp power and fishing RCA cables, remote wire and speaker wire down the sides of the boat which installing everything took 1/2 day, cost was 60 for HU, 250 for amp, 125 for 4 speakers and 100 for amp kit. It is loud as heck. You can get some HUs that fit a gauge slot and can do away with the slot in the head, just tie off wiring and pull what you need. Fish stick, busted up fishing rod, tape measure all can work well for fishing since most of the areas go to open cavities, just get the right wire type.
  3. Rwright1985

    233 Sunesta Bimini Top Part

    Canvas shop, buy tool pipe and fitting to make your own or make new with external fitting. They sell them @ marine depot for same price as amazon when I ordered mine.
  4. Rwright1985

    New to me 265.

    Good news is it isnt red, red always turns pink. Plus black would get hotter. But congrats on the new toy.
  5. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    As said earlier I dont trust the shop that did the work before. Never had a drive issue before and they did lots of questionable "you need to fix this suggestions" that they wouldnt back up by calling me down to check parts and when i requested to check it out would get, "ahh it should be fine" i dont think I was charged for a coupler though. Part of the problem with me pulling engine is time, got 2 little ones, work full time and would have to do it at my parents 30 mins away. I have some swiveling crows feet that I may be able to kick in there and torque close to spec by doing moment arm calcs and a modified torque value.
  6. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    Can that be swapped w/ pulling just outdrive or would engine have to come out since it attatches to flywheel? Never pulled the drive but i have no way of pulling engine.
  7. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    I think I am going insane or since engine is cool vs running a good part of the day it seems sound has changed a little. Plugs all looked good, a hair darker than i like but not bad. Engine mounts tight. If i hang off the back of boat with my head on top of outdrive I hear a very faint tap, shoving my head in by bellhousing sounds slightly higher pitch & fairly loud, but sounded louder right at (i believe #2 cyl lifter area right about where fuel pump is). Wondering if anyone can check video and verify my theory of lifter. I am thinking this because it seemed worse hot (thinner oil so more likely to collapse), sounds like it is happening on about each rotation, if it was universal I would expect trim to change it some. I am trying to get a mechanic here in WPB to look at it since it is under warranty, but had my truck break down on my 2nd attempt, and was stuck working when he had 1st bit of free time.
  8. Rwright1985

    Smoke and running rich

    Check plugs and see what cyls are rich. If it is all somethingnis throwing tune off which is bad data from a sensor. Idk if GM used their "spider assembly" on this which is a pack of injectors with plastic lines going to each cyl and some of those lines would crack washing out chunks of cyls (1 whole or half a bank)
  9. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    Here is a video of it running, i tried adjusting trim with no change, @ about 1200 rpm it almost went away, above that it sped up a little. Didnt have stethascope but sounded like impact coming from bellhousing area, but was louder around where fuel pump is.
  10. Rwright1985

    Educate me on trailer winches

    You will probably find the PN or spec on the wheel or one of the side panels. Some of the pins are different diameters and can screw you up on some straps.
  11. Rwright1985

    Educate me on trailer winches

    Nope, strap based on direct weight being applied, boat floats and moves easily. Best bet is to see if there is a mfg and pn on winch then you can get rating and buy replacement based off that.
  12. Rwright1985

    First Boat, First Car

    Cars: 1st car 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (White) sold I somewhat miss it they were fairly rare, 2nd 1992 Isuzu Rodeo (Baby Blue) totaled, 2001 Chevy S10 (@ same time rebuilt 1976 vette with my dad) traded in because it started to fall apart due to prev damage w/ 178k on the clock, 2004 Scion XB sold with 250k on the clock, 2006 GMC 2500 4 door LBZ 4X4 still have (In a dysfunctional relationship with it) but has 296k on the clock Boats: 1st 1976 Hydrasport 168VEE with 150HP Merc straight 6 tower of power, Blew motor friend got boat off me and tried redoing it but got killed, boat went to the dump. 2nd 2003 Chap 183SSi 4cyl VP SX
  13. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    It was a new motor Marine Power w/ 25hrs currently on it, installed by a shop that I DO NOT TRUST anymore. The sound is more of a lower tone knock (Like whacking the block with a 5lb sledge) with visible shaking of the engine assy. and everything appeared tight (Didnt notice any slipping with the engine assy. kicking around a little) They supposedly pulled drive and fixed output shaft leak (Still leaking with typical weep it had prior). They supposedly did Gimble BRG and Bellows, Bellows look new and said universal was rusted badly. I was a bit of an A-hole with them and told them to leave it (Hadn't had an issue prior) because of prior games they had played (To the point of threatening to call State attorney office from their games and they magically dropped my bill by 2k). Part of me is thinking it may be the universal and the shop may not have been full of it, but from working as an auto mechanic years ago to pay my way through school I know an engine and since they played games on that end of everything it really left me bitter. Just with having kids now time to check it out is minimal so trying to get a solid plan together to make sure I can fix it quick.
  14. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    I am not going to be able to touch boat until saturday. Wife is off this weekend so I can work on it saturday and Sunday (Hoped to get it out sunday). Do you have a quick check list of what I can do or suspect parts I can try grabbing to swap?
  15. Rwright1985

    Diagnose universal/knock

    The engine is a 4cyl so no bank and appeared to be coming from block/outdrive area not valves. I should clarify "under load" as I now realize I am an idiot and was rushing writing this and have been busy the past few weeks. It was not knocking @ higher RPM (On Plane) and not knocking under accel in FWD or Rev, but @ idle or steady lower RPMs was knocking. Oil pressure was reading I believe 40 PSI (Near middle of my gauge). I gotta pull plugs and throw shunt and timing light on. but oil on dipstick was clean.
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