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Rwright1985

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  1. Tomlin wont get fired, too good of a record. his regular season is best of Knoll and Cowher. Problem is he allows his team to play down to their opponents which costs them so it flips when factoring in playoffs. He does need to get the team disciplined but needs a mutual respect between him and the team. Villanueva being a Ranger and going on the field @ anthem isnt following rules because he wanted the team to stay in the locker room, but he should have allowed the team to be discreetly @ the tunnel or just said "IDK what happened and we will discuss as a team" instead he outed Villanueva for not following his rule.
  2. I went into the closet as a steelers fan when tomlin didnt back Villanueva for national anthem ordeal. Still watch occasionally but a coach should have a players back and he could have been a little more politically neutral on his statement. I still root for them, but no steelers swag until Tomlin is gone.
  3. Run to switch (should be able to take it), unless amp has some memory based features (ie bluetooth) more than likely no need to keep power to it. After switch put fuse/breaker. No extra cost then if you go to dual batteries you just need to swap switch, run ground and new + from new battery. Probably 15 mins more work to help save risk of parasitic draw.
  4. There is a relay in the amp, that is why you run the remote wire from HU. It SHOULDN'T draw anything, but using my boat as an example stuff can happen. Your settings should all be analog so no need to worry about losing memory, and if your battery switch can take it run the switch. I am setting up dual batteries as soon as i get a 2nd tray and time where i can do it because i had to buy a battery at west marine since I couldnt get a jump start and had wife and kids all loaded and boat launched (so took the 20 min detour) I figure why waste a battery and now i should never get stranded.
  5. Wire to switch, amp is probably analog for settings so no programmingto worry about, IDK if mine got remote wire wet and bridged that terminal to the battery wire but after 1st trip my battery was dead, only thing was amp and wire going to my main switch. Switch was off so something wiped out my battery and i am guessing it wasnt the switch.
  6. 2011 is under aft berth closet lift up floor, so may be similar.
  7. Just looked at parts schematic for your boat, if you have the factory upgrade speakers you have a 4x75 amp associated with FWD cabin. They dont show it but says 25ft rca cables used. I would pull head unit and see where cables run then try tracing out that way. Amps are ugly so should be hidden well.
  8. I will never winterize my boat....80 degrees here suckas. But I just cut my lid out of starboard, good enough for me.
  9. Come see the FL boat shows, some guy down here is building a boat I think he is using a 35 everglades as the tender.
  10. From what I saw with my 3.0 the starter cost about 50 to rebuild, GM marine Starter from our auto electric shop was I believe 140, and aftermarket was about 100. It is pretty rough getting into the Bilge to do it because of the reach, I would slide starter in and get nut on brace snug to help hold everything then start with the bolts, be careful not to strip like what happened to my old block from prev. owner.
  11. Rwright1985

    204 Ssi

    183ssi here, it is awesome. Mine is underpowered a hair but good enough for the family. Takes the ICW chop like a champ and I think rides better than many Center Consoles I have been on.
  12. Rwright1985

    B.O.A.T.

    Ohh I get that, I meant samething as in since it is apart now whatever he feels should legitimately be changed I am okay with.
  13. Rwright1985

    B.O.A.T.

    Ehh, it isn't too bad I hope this mechanic can do it faster and get me a better price than I am expecting, but that is my estimate off my experiences in the past from dealing with cars. This is a different guy, seems really knowledgeable and decent so far. Just wish he would have shot me a text (had someone set up an auto-text) when he went radio silence from his medical issue, saying he had something critical happen that he will get back once he is capable. I will let the mechanic make the call on changing the coupler but I am not opposed to that as it is a few hundred bucks insurance and same thing with the universal. My rule when boat went in the first time was to make it safe and reliable for me and my family, same rule applies. Cyclops, I get them not wanting to deal with labor on the warranty if it is just R&R engine, it wasn't their factory trained mechanic that did install. If they say rebuild they dang well better eat the cost on the rebuild as with 35 hours it was more than likely really poor part which GM should cover or poor assembly which GM should cover. If they try doing full review of it I want to see what they find based on any fractures, miss-torque/alignment, inadequate oil flow... I have been wanting to get into failure analysis and forensics since my sophomore year of college and it would be fun to try to challenge their engineers. Closest thing I have had is hardware review for FAA ETOPS Certification, which I loved. P.S. Sorry I geeked out
  14. Rwright1985

    B.O.A.T.

    Yup, Hit it with a stethoscope, popped the fuel pump off so it was just motor and drive, sound was louder and Def. coming from #1/2 area sound matched speed of RPM so coming from crank and not cam. Waiting for Mechanic to pull and get warranty paperwork moving, but probably getting hit for 1k-1500 I am thinking in labor (2 hrs drive removal & install, Remove/strip old block, Dress new block and install, sea trial) bad thing is mechanic had some health issues so slowed him down with getting to me.
  15. Rwright1985

    B.O.A.T.

    Brand new motor in end of January, Dead for past month and a half, need to swap motor, still got warranty but labor coverage is $500, after 35 hours of use
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