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  1. Can anyone assist? Only stbd tab and actuator left, port all ripped off- heres a pic - its a lenco system - dont have a pic of the panel so will get that 2moro - any idea? Im thinking of having the stbd side copied in SS.. and would like to replace both actuators and thru hull wiring of course-
  2. true - I must have checked the wires 15 times already - yes ive made that mistake myself lol. i see-saw them one at a timefrom plug to cap if i cant see/reach it well enough. The motor starts and runs perfect at 550 rpms, i dont think it wd manage that with swapped leads. Will update later!
  3. Stbd motor data (wont let me upload a 2nd pic). . 1. VEHICLE CONFIGURATION Cust. Name: Engine Make: Engine Serial No: Model Year: System Type: GM-DELCO MEFI 4 MODE 1 MASTER 2. PERFORMANCE DATA Parameter Description Value Unit Engine Speed........................................ 529 RPM Calibration Checksum............................... 1309 HEX Desired Idle Speed.................................. 550 RPM Engine Running Time................................ 6.30 Min Battery Voltage................................... 14.30 VDC Engine Hours.....................
  4. hi curt - i learned the motor actually had some starting issues before now.. just not the exact day i saw it run for the 1st time.. prob why the fuel assembly was changed- I was referring to the little ignition module next to the coil - never made it down there - busy moving our shop and its a madhouse .. Here is the diacom info: stbd is the issue motor-
  5. hi curt - i learned the motor actually had some starting issues before now.. just not the exact day i saw it run for the 1st time.. prob why the fuel assembly was changed- I was referring to the little ignition module next to the coil - either way will see what happens on sat- man.. would it help to post the diacom readings from the 2 motors?
  6. thanks curt - the throttle linkage in the control box is a little loose- but the motor still responds perfectly to movement and sets back perfectly to idle.. I did find the iac connector loose b4 we ran into all this trouble - is it possible the idle position needs to be reset somehow? like turn on without starting - wait 10s, move lever to WOT slowly and back to idle, turn off.. ?? Ive had iac issues b4 and usually with a 1/3rd throttle it fires up, just idles badly or not.. this thing needs to be near WOT to fire up.. we tried a few positions but very open seemed to work - Go
  7. one at the rail - however im sure the fuel assembly came with a new one - the whole section came complete with filter, pumps etc.. will be back sat for more testing- i was thinking maybe the ignition module / corrosion perhaps.. was going to pull one from the junkyard and see what makes it go away - weak spark could cause the "rich" condition imo- want to get it done this time!
  8. Hi curt sorry to sound confusing - when you start it first time for the day thing it fires up perfectly, its after its run just a minute that the issues start. Wingman now suggests perhaps a fuel issue rather and that maybe the return line is blocked or something.. Does the ret line go to the fuel canister or the main tank? HOw would I go about checking that - let it prime and see if excess fuel comes out? Im usually unuder the impression that low psi pumps shd be 8-10 psi and hi pressure 40-50 at prime/idle/running? If i get excess pressure on the rail then possibly the return line or somethi
  9. hi guys so update from today - went down.. after we struggled forever last time on the original parts to restart- reinstalled new stuff.. same issue - then I checked restarting without priming the system each time.. it must be flooding cos we now have the same issue intermittent - sometimes it refires no prob - other times (when turning key fully off/on -> priming - same issue), just really struggles. When we start at WOT she runs and idles fine - which tells me the system is flooding - OR it might still be a weak ignition issue - I recorded the diacom info and shot a short
  10. hi guys thanks for the help- will try later and see what happens. I do recall retry lightly touching the magnet under the rotor as it seemed quite rusted - so just touching that could cause issues? Ill plug the diacom in and see what comes up during cranking - ill spray a tiny bit of fresh fuel on the arrestor as a last resort - maybe the high pressure pump isnt working. We could smell a gas smell after a few tries- ill pull plugs and see- yes i did replace the old cap/rotor - same issue. Will update with findings later - thanks all! Wasnt all that prepared - so will have the open gap sp
  11. hi guys thanks - yes i check the rotor direction, it only goes one way (holes and pins are offset) - i put the old ones back same issue. Curt - so ive done some reading.. seems the cam sensor sits under the rotor- since i didnt rotate the dizzy body is it possible i knocked it out of alignment? Is it something I need to set and if so how? I have the diacom stuff - will that help me or do i need to use it? Basically how would I go about confirming the cam sensor is dialled in (assuming its possible to mis-adjust it when swapping just the rotor/cap)..
  12. Hey Curt - yes checked wires 8 times.. i tested 3 - its a little tight back there - we noticed the green led light on the little black box at the rear transom was out but always on - i checked all the fuses too - nothing bad. I read somewhere the fuse boxes can develop a loose wire - We smell fuel when it primes - and it kind of tries to start but just cant. The rotors only go on one way and i obviously paid att to the angle- if I figure out the dah moment ill post! I have the diacom stuff but wont be surprised if there are no codes- Maybe i jostled the fuse box while
  13. There it is - im totally stumped! ran just fine before - did same on port motor and it re-fired back up instantly.. Fyi when doing a spark test I got a big thick yellow arc between screwdriver and bare block metal (about 1/2" gap).. Plz help! S/N: 3869137 4012078085
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