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SterndriveEd12

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  1. I would suggest putting the Contactor in a location where you can access it later for testing purposes. The cables that leave the Contactor go to the windlass motor. They need to be the right size to carry the power needed to operate the system. The job of the windlass Contactor is to send high current and to reverse the polarity to the windlass motor as needed. So large cables from battery to Contactor. Large cables also from Contactor to windlass. The small gauge wiring is the easy part. Small gauge wiring connects the Contactor to a helm switch to operate the system.
  2. Brake Caliper Lube is a common auto supply store item. I like to lubricate all the slides and even the small contact areas where the brake pads contact the support plate. Keeps the rust and corrosion from holding the pads applied against the rotor when the master cylinder releases the pressure.
  3. For the sound insulation check out Dynamat. I did the inside of my engine cover with it last winter. Turned out great. Looks and sound level both improved.
  4. Just wondering if the post should read “When to replace RISERS”. Since he doesn’t refer to Valve Lifters.
  5. I like the zip lock bag idea. If you coat the splines on the prop shaft with lube, dirt may get attracted to the shaft. So protect it with a zip lock bag and a zip tie to hold it on during outdoor storage.
  6. Is it legal to run 2 stern lights at night? I know the direction a vessel is traveling at night by seeing the navigation light on front of bow and a stern light on rear. Also, I believe the range of an anchor light aka stern light is 2 miles.
  7. Test the system before you throw parts at it. We’ve discussed this topic many times before on this forum. Just search gas gauge or fuel gauge, and I’m sure it will save you time and money. Specifically Late August or early September a topic by ylee21 that I commented on. There’s even a video showing testing of the fuel gauge.
  8. I agree with Rambo. Check with the local folks who have been at the same location in past winters.
  9. On my Alpha 1, Gen 2, I like to level the lower unit and take a dipstick reading before I drain it for the season. Then measure the amount of gear lube that drains out. Typically about 36 -39 ounces. Look at it for any signs of trouble, like water or any metal streaks. Then I refill until the side vent hole begins to overflow. Now she’s ready for next boating season.
  10. I prefer to unplug trailer lights on the ramp. The hot bulbs can get thermal shock when lake water hit them. They usually crack and turn white, cloudy. Keep in mind that I don’t have a 5 wire, reverse surge brake lock out solenoid. So with the 4 wire, conventional bulb set up, I prefer to unplug when on the ramp.
  11. Denny asked about dash gauges fogging up. When it’s a certain temperature outside and the lights are off, this fogging can occur. With the standard incandescent bulbs, which do give off a little heat, gauge fogging disappears when the lights are switched on. Just something to consider before changing to LED dash lighting.
  12. If possible you can try this method I prefer to use. I like to approach the dock with the wind direction in mind. I like to use it to help me look good. It can be your friend. My wife helps out and we tie off to the dock. Next I back the trailer in. I like to stop when the trailer fenders just go under water. Now the boat is simply pulled by hand using dock lines onto the trailer. The last foot or so I usually use the winch to pull her up to the bow stop. Lastly, when the boat and trailer get out of the lake I pause on the ramp and pull the transom drain plug to allow the bilge to drain. The t
  13. You have a Starter Solenoid issue. The solenoid is mounted on the starter motor. It’s job is to shift the starter pinion gear into the engine flywheel teeth as the starter is activated. The starter then cranks the engine over. A weak solenoid will not keep the starter pinion gear engaged. This causes the starter to freewheel. When you replaced the starter, did it come with a fresh solenoid?
  14. You would need a raw water through hull pick up for each engine. Two new holes in the hull. Two intake screens outside. Two shut offs inside. Two sea strainers as well. Are you positive the current water intake system is plugged up?
  15. Asking for a little history here. How many hours on the knocking engine? Last oil and filter change? Has it been regularly maintained? Who knows, it may even be a U-Joint knocking in the out drive. Does the knocking noise change when you put her in gear while tied off in your slip?
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