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  1. I prefer to unplug trailer lights on the ramp. The hot bulbs can get thermal shock when lake water hit them. They usually crack and turn white, cloudy. Keep in mind that I don’t have a 5 wire, reverse surge brake lock out solenoid. So with the 4 wire, conventional bulb set up, I prefer to unplug when on the ramp.
  2. Denny asked about dash gauges fogging up. When it’s a certain temperature outside and the lights are off, this fogging can occur. With the standard incandescent bulbs, which do give off a little heat, gauge fogging disappears when the lights are switched on. Just something to consider before changing to LED dash lighting.
  3. If possible you can try this method I prefer to use. I like to approach the dock with the wind direction in mind. I like to use it to help me look good. It can be your friend. My wife helps out and we tie off to the dock. Next I back the trailer in. I like to stop when the trailer fenders just go under water. Now the boat is simply pulled by hand using dock lines onto the trailer. The last foot or so I usually use the winch to pull her up to the bow stop. Lastly, when the boat and trailer get out of the lake I pause on the ramp and pull the transom drain plug to allow the bilge to drain. The transom straps and trailer lights check out take place on the flat before we get to the street.
  4. You have a Starter Solenoid issue. The solenoid is mounted on the starter motor. It’s job is to shift the starter pinion gear into the engine flywheel teeth as the starter is activated. The starter then cranks the engine over. A weak solenoid will not keep the starter pinion gear engaged. This causes the starter to freewheel. When you replaced the starter, did it come with a fresh solenoid?
  5. You would need a raw water through hull pick up for each engine. Two new holes in the hull. Two intake screens outside. Two shut offs inside. Two sea strainers as well. Are you positive the current water intake system is plugged up?
  6. Asking for a little history here. How many hours on the knocking engine? Last oil and filter change? Has it been regularly maintained? Who knows, it may even be a U-Joint knocking in the out drive. Does the knocking noise change when you put her in gear while tied off in your slip?
  7. I’ve used Left-Hand drill bits with success. Sometimes they work great. Here’s my advice. Spray a lot of penetrating oil up into the broken bolt. I like PB Blaster. Get a 1/4 inch Left Hand drill bit. I would recommend this size bit for the 3/8 inch N.C. broken bolt piece you’re trying to remove. Do the best you can to center the drill bit on the broken bolt. Is there a way to center punch a dimple to help get the drill bit closest to center? Lastly, if the bolt was put in cross-threaded, using a Left -Hand drill bit will not work to spin it out. The threads need to be in good shape on the broken bolt for this method to work.
  8. Not sure how you’re getting water in the bilge when under way. But in regards to the vents on the side of the boat, you need to keep them open. All air flow into the engine compartment comes into and out of these vents. Typically one side of the boat draws air in, while the opposite side allows fumes to escape. The blower forces this to happen when the boat is not moving fast enough to cause air flow to occur on it own. Both the intake air necessary for engine running as well as venting out the engine compartment of any fumes, are the reasons for these vents in the first place.
  9. ylee - A good way to learn the basics of electrical troubleshooting is to start with a simple 12 volt test light. It’s a light bulb with a pointy probe attached to one end of the bulb. The other end of bulb has a long wire with an alligator clip at the end. So to begin, you clip the alligator to a negative battery terminal. Use the probe to find power. In other words anything with 12 volt power will cause the light to come on. So for instance, the battery positive terminal will show power when the probe touches it. If you are looking a the back of a simple two terminal switch, one side will show power. The other side will show power as you operate the switch to the on position. Now, if you want to find a good ground aka a negative, you can simply reverse the test light hook up. Alligator clip to positive battery terminal. Then wherever the probe touches a good ground, the light will light up. So if you’re looking at the fuel gauge system, check for a good ground at the metal ring of the sending unit as stated above. With the test light reversed, It will light up when you probe the metal sending unit ring.
  10. Has your engine been maintained in the past? Last tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. Fuel filter. Carburetor rebuilt? Wondered why you pulled the pick up tube out to inspect it? Marine pick up tubes typically have no screen.
  11. The low oil pressure cut off switch is located near the oil filter. It has two wires on it. A purple wire from the ignition key feeds it. A purple wire with a yellow stripe powers up the electric fuel pump when there is oil pressure. If engine stalls out, the electric fuel pump is shut down. This switch has nothing to do with the ignition system. It only controls electric fuel pump.
  12. Sounds like perfectly normal crankcase blow by gases to me. It’s a blend of some exhaust gasses as well as some fuel and air that gets past the piston rings in any engine as it runs. In automotive engines you won’t see these gasses because of a dedicated system called a PCV. Positive Crankcase Ventilation. A PCV valve regulates the blow by gasses back into the intake manifold. Marine engines typically vent these gasses out from the engine to right near the flame arrestor to be drawn into the engine along with the intake air stream. If these blow by gasses were not vented out of the engine crankcase, every gasket would be put under pressure and leak oil. Of course as engines wear out and compression is lost, more blow by gasses will occur. Hope this helps.
  13. Look for a similar vent fitting below your gas fill cap. That would be the fuel tank vent. There is a mesh screen just inside the hole. Keep that screen clear of debris. Spiders, Wasp mud nests like to plug it up and cause trouble.
  14. Phillbo is correct. Never trust a fuel gauge on a boat. Ask me how I know.
  15. Drain the fuel from the tank. The fuel is stale. Always start with fresh fuel.
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