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SterndriveEd12

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  1. If my memory is correct, you’ll need a 1/2” deep socket. I put a 3 inch extension on it and use some electrical tape to make sure they stay together. 3/8 drive ratchet completes the set up. Of course the plastic cap to the access hole just pops out easily with a screwdriver.
  2. I recommend buying the deck plate before drilling an access hole. I know of folks that drilled first and then were surprised that they could not find the correct size deck plate. In other words, a 4 inch deck plate doesn’t cover up a 4 inch hole.
  3. A good Carb rebuild will fix many issues. Like poor idle, stumble on acceleration, lack of power. The proper choke adjustment will allow the choke plate to close when you advance the throttle a bit on a cold engine before it’s started. A visual check will prove this. Then as the engine warms up at the dock, you will see the choke plate swing towards open. On a fully warmed up engine, the choke plate will be completely open.
  4. Definitely save the pictures. The best one shows the bent bolt and a nut still attached. There should have been a backing system or at the very least some large diameter washers for the nut to seat against. These would spread the load out and keep the nut from pulling out through the hole. Lucky nobody behind you was hurt when that thing flew off on the road.
  5. I would ask the Marina who prepared the boat for the season if they ran the engine long enough to reach full operating temperature. If not, then there’s a good chance the spark plugs are fouled. Your engine runs really rich when it first starts up. During warm up the choke plate swings open and the spark plugs begin to clean themselves by burning off sooty deposits. If the engine is started up and shut down before warm up cycle is complete, fouled spark plugs often result. How many seasons has that set of spark plugs been in there?
  6. Start with an oil pressure test. Need a test gauge, also known as a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Install it into the electric oil pressure gauge passage on the engine. Then when the engine is running you will see actual oil pressure versus the electric gauge reading. I like to see about 50 psi at cruising rpm. At idle speed I like to see about 20 psi. Also, make sure the oil level is correct, and the specified oil for your engine.
  7. Have someone turn the key to start as you watch the starter motor closely. Does it move when the grinding noise begins? I’m thinking perhaps a starter bolt has broken, allowing the starter to move away from the engine a bit. This causes less gear teeth to engage between starter and flywheel.
  8. My thoughts are that whoever did the starter and solenoid work didn’t tighten the electrical connections fully. You should go back to them and have them check their work. Even a loose battery terminal can cause you current issue. My rule for tightening any electrical connections is to tighten up the connection until the terminal doesn’t move when I try to move it by hand. No tighter and no looser. Also by the way, when an engine is starting up the proper terminology is cranking over when you twist the key to the right, and then running, when you release the key. You say spinning when you mean cranking over. No big deal, but we need to follow your description of the problem.
  9. Thanks for asking for our opinions. I’m thinking that fresh engine is actually from a car or truck. The level of rust on the accessories like alternator and power steering pump indicate an automotive versus a marine background. I also agree that the vinyl is beyond any repair.
  10. Wondering if your carb is flooding. If you look down into the bores at idle, after the choke is fully open and engine warmed up, you should see zero fuel dripping from the fuel delivery nozzles. If the floats have trouble or either needle and seat get a piece of debris in between them, a flooding condition will result. This cause fuel to dribble from the nozzles at idle. At idle the only fuel delivered is through the idle mixture screws. Any extra fuel dumping in at idle may cause the stalling out you are experiencing.
  11. I’m right behind you. I just rebuilt my 4 BBL Weber this past winter. 93 2050 SL with a 4.3L V-6. Runs perfect. Starts right up hot or cold. Acceleration is super. Very pleased with the results so far. It did stall one time though while trolling. I had set the idle speed too low. 1/4 turn and it’s perfect now. I just kept the mixture screws set as they were before the rebuild. Smooth idle.
  12. During the off season were your batteries charged up at all? Did you clean any battery terminal connections ? Part of the winter time storage routine should include battery maintenance which includes charging as well as cleaning terminal connections.
  13. My bilge hose goes from the bilge pump to the thru hull fitting pretty much straight forward. Except there is an intentional high spot that serves to keep sea water from outside the boat getting into the bilge. The high spot in the hose is about 6 inches above the thru hull fitting. In other words, the pump must overcome the high spot in the hose in order to pump bilge water out. Hope this helps you understand the purpose of needing a high spot in the bilge discharge hose.
  14. The last 2 nights we broke all time low temps here in northern Michigan. 21 degrees when we woke up this morning! Our 2050 SL is on our boat hoist in Lake Huron for over a week now. I put a 100 watt incandescent light bulb in the bilge, with the doghouse closed of course, beforehand. Just didn’t want to take a chance on freezing.
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