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Buckeye94

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  1. So this summer I tried using the docking lights for the first time after a late night adventure and no go. LED was on in the switch, but nothing up front. Checked fuse panel and nothing obvious. Now that it's out of the water, I was just wondering if anybody had any ideas or past experience before I started screwing around on the bow as I'm guessing those lights are sealed up and will be a pain to dismantle to check the voltage/bulbs. Seems strange for both to be out - especially for such a new boat (2016).
  2. Thought I needed to replace my risers due to an overheat condition. Turns out that the supply line was blocked upstream and my old risers were just fine. Downside was I needed to run with the Port side riser installed for about an hour to determine that I was barking up the wrong tree - so need to sell this "almost new" set at a big discount as I obviously can't return them to the supply house. Pictures and description are located on eBay, but if you contact me here via the forum I'll cover 1/2 of the shipping cost since eBay won't take their cut and you'll save sales tax. ht
  3. Sadly it's that time of year up here in the cold. Looking into winter cover options for my '16 Sunesta 224. Found this one online at a great price - factory shipping cover, but it's for the "XTREME 224 with Folding Arch". Wondering if anyone has this cover or knows if it has holes to poke that arch through vs. just leaving space for the arch to be stored in the "down" position? Saw another "factory" cover that would be a perfect fit - but it seems the current covers are just basically "shrink wrap" and not meant to be used again. This one below I believe is felt lined with ratcheting str
  4. Thanks for the praise @cyclops2. Not too worried about the repo piece as the boat was "arrested' by a friend and was in his possession until I purchased. Now what happened prior to the bank seizing the boat... who knows? But appears to have been abandoned for a year+ so unlikely to have been started and run hot/dry as you shared. Had a nice 2-hour run tonight to confirm the fix. Started hesitating/losing power after about 45 mins. Added the ice pack on top and a piece of non-flammable insulation between the PCM and the mounting plate and it came back to life and was fine for another
  5. Not sure about if the problem would repeat with a new PCM. Even if there are lots of other problems, there are thousands of boats with the computer in that spot and most of them still work fine. Hoping its a marginal board or component in the PCM and/or a failure due to engine overheat (I had lots of those on my Port side where the wires connect in) that's not going to replicate itself down the road. While I wait to hear back from Merc. and still have a somewhat functioning boat... I was going to experiment with a spacer or some insulation between the standard mount and the existing co
  6. So troubleshooting update.... I took a can of "freeze spray" (Liq. Nitrogen) and when the engine was warmed up and had lost power I started spraying electrical components to rapid cool them and check for performance improvement. Started with items that were less costly (MAP Sensor, Coil) but no help when sprayed. Fortunately (unfortunately) I found the culprit.... the main PCM computer. Sprayed the PCM down and the engine roared back to life for a bit. After running a bit more and returning to a sluggish state (ran out of "freeze") I unbolted the computer and placed a blue ice pack under t
  7. So the P/N for the pre-filter I added was Raycor 320r-rac-02. About $100 and it has a spin on replacement rated at 60gph with a metal bowl for collecting any water. I would have prefered a plastic bowl for easy visual inspection for water, but read that its' not allowed in an enclosed engine compartment due to heat - only for outboards. No idea if I have a screen in the fuel tank. When I suctioned my tank I pulled the fuel gage assembly as it gave me access to the largest hole. Poking phone camera in there it appeared to be a straight pickup pipe - but not sure if there was a screen a
  8. Nope... no alarms. Yes there's a TPS. Sure wish I still had the rented RINDA scan tool so I could watch sensor output when the condition occurred. My recollection is that I was reading 100% TPS signal last month when I had the tool connected, but not certain..... but you're right it would line up with my symptom perfectly.
  9. - Relatively smoothly (not super rough). Need to pop the cover when it's happening to get a better sense. Tough because I'm often towing kids on a tube and focus is on them and safety. - How do you SEE if the air valve is opening fully... is it more of a hearing thing? - Again it hard to say as several times this change has occurred after a swim break, but once I specifically recall an instant reduction... driving along fine, then a "step function" of reduced power all at once (sound of motor, speed reduction).
  10. When I say "cover" it's just a simple beauty plate that sits on top of the flame arrestor (1 1/2 x the size of a dinner plate) Not all that confident what's all is under the cover... IAC valve, MAP /Temp sensor... but definitely the main engine ECM. (hoping that's not the culprit at $1,500 - ugh!)
  11. - So the fuel filter/pump assembly is water cooled (CoolFuel3) but fuel line up to the rail is open to the environment. -No warning horn during the 1/2 power state. I'm waiting for the kit to test compression leak down (suggested by @Wingnut) but really starting to feel something electrical is heat soaked and causing the motor to limp - coil, sensor, (gulp?) ECM? So much packed in up top between the heads and no positive ventilation in the compartment. Took the boat out today and couldn't reproduce the condition. Besides riding solo and not being loaded up (3 kids, 3 adult
  12. Correct @cyclops2... the BEEPING (Guardian) alarm is done. That was confirmed a month ago as the Port side ECMT overheat. My cooling issue is in the rear view mirror.... Now just trying to understand why after the boat heats up I lose 1/2 of my throttle. Not sure if it helps troubleshooting...but this problem was present before (hence the title of this thread). Thought it was due to a full tank of fuel, but that was just happenstance. So happened that I ran for a while (fine) - pulled into the marina for fuel and then when I went back out... no power. Same thing now occuring independent
  13. Thanks @Stretch79 Appreciate the comments. I too had crap in the fuel tank and believe that was driving some of my early issues. Since then I've completely vacuumed the tank dry and added a Raycor pre-filter (screw on with a metal bowl) prior to the Merc Cool Fuel3 on-engine system. No more water/old ethanol in the system as I've checked both Merc filter/screen as well as drained the bowl and it comes out clean. This one is acting like a clock... every time just konking out at the same 45-60min mark and then "resetting" itself when it cools off. So strange?!?!?!? Thanks again f
  14. Thanks @Wingnut Great suggestions. Was so focused on fuel issues I wasn't thinking about these basics. Is there a good way to check the coil?
  15. Quick update- Guardian alarm issue for high EMCT finally was resolved. Found two pieces of the old impeller wedged in the output hose fitting blocking water flow. Thought my issue of poor performance when hot would rectify itself now that I’ve solved this major water flow /cooling issue but much to my dismay - same situation occurs. Boat runs flawlessly cold- first run - for about 45 min to an hour. Then it loses about 50% of its power. Depending on how much it’s loaded it either struggles to plane or just barely can be coaxed to plane. Typically bogged down to about 2500 rpm
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