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  1. I'm a huge fan of Formula, specifically their 30ft + PCs. There are two in my marina and I drool whenever they head out.
  2. Also, what RPM do you normally cruise around at? I find that if I have more than 2 people on board and a full cooler, 3800 RPM is the minimum RPM where the engine seems to be happy. Running below that it will stay on plane but its lugging.
  3. I've got a 2006 260 sig with the 280HP 5.7 Volvo and it really does need an awful lot of trim/throttle tweaking to keep her running well in chop. A friend has a similar size/year searay with a 350hp merc and his is much more set it and forget it. It seems to have enough power to push through and maintain speed. I will certainly look into the power plant more closely for the next one.
  4. The base itself seems to be secure. It is the the seat base on the pedestal that is rocking/swiveling too much.
  5. Well that sucks. I would be happy with even a 50% reduction in the wobble. That combined with it wanting to swivel WAY too easily makes me need to stand almost spread eagle to brace myself if I am riding in some significant chop.
  6. I’ve tried tightening the two knobs under the captains seat on my 2005 260 signature but I’m unable to get the base to stop rocking. Has anyone had this problem before? Any idea where I can find the correct replacement base/post? I’ve looked around online and have seen all sorts of pedestal replacements but I’m trying to narrow down the correct one
  7. You are the first person so report having the same boat, specs AND performance. I do know that our boats are pretty heavy to be moved around with a single 280hp V8. I find that 4k RPM is the sweet spot with respect to how the engine sounds and my achieved cruise. If I drop below 3800 rpm, the boat will quicly fall off plane if I don’t trim the engine way back in. However doing so you can tell that it is laboring. Outside of the increased fuel burn, am I going to do long term damage running at 4k rpm? (It really does feel like the sweet spot)
  8. So this has turned out into quite a learning experience for me. It turns out that my props are also not “timed” properly in that the blades cross directly under the cavitation plate. From some reading I’ve done, some say it can account for a few MPH while others say it’s nonsense. Either way, if running at max wot trim, wanting to only have one blade near the surface at a time does seem to make sense to me.
  9. I am starting to wonder if it is in fact a spun hub (still need to test). I have noticed that under the high load of accelerating onto plane, I feel a slight increase vibration until I reach a steady speed after planing. I assume the heaviest water load is just before coming out of the hole and still trying to accelerate. Given my understanding of physics, the highest load should be under acceleration instead of a sustained constant higher velocity. This vibration is less when I am less aggressive with how fast I try to plane out. This is all still speculation, but my gut is tel
  10. The swim platform ladder on my 2005 Chaparral 260 signature is also cracked. Are you able to help with a replacement?

    1. PerthWA

      PerthWA

      Hi 

      Your replacement part number for this part is SP67 which is the part I have. 

      Subject to where you live in USA (need to confirm shipping cost) I would be looking at US$225 shipped to you.

      If you could provide me your State, town and zip code I can confirm the shipping isn't unreasonable - price might drop.

      Hope that works for you.

      Thank you

      Paul

  11. Yes the dps-b drive that I’ve got had spiral spline hubs. The re power job included changing out the hub with new spiral hubs on the old F4 props
  12. Could a poorly rehubbed prop result in a spun hub at higher rpm?
  13. See this is where I am getting conflicting information. I have heard some say no more than 4600 and some say at LEAST 4800. Yesterdays RPM was achieved under very calm conditions and a lighter load than I normally run (2 people instead of 4). Should that factor into my decision? Also what is the pitch of the F4. Ive not been able to find it.
  14. That’s is my plan for Monday morning. I have the engine and drive serial numbers and now I know the exact props. I’m sure they will be able to tell me what I need to change up.
  15. AHA! I just dug through the prop guide and it actually calls out FH series instead of F series prop for the DPS-B outdrive that I have. Time for me to figure out the difference between those two. Apparently the FH is designed to take advantage of the helical spline which allows for increased force transfer with slightly thinner blades. I’m getting the feeling they just did the rehub to make them mount but the props might have meaningful differences.
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